brighttail

In shot the K90 and k95 wrist rests on the sight do not FIT the K95 RGB Platinum. Corsair has not yet, nor does it intend to make these a separate issue. I have asked multiple times in over two years. I have had two crack on me and you have to send THE ENTIRE keyboard back in and they give you a new keyboard in return. Pretty stupid for a $15 part but that is what they are doing.

That is what I was figuring but if one has a baseline of 2133 MHZ and the other has a baseline of 2666 MHZ, then they are just running on different clock cycles? It is just weird that one is 80 bux more....I'm wondering if it has to do with the origin of the memory chips. Corsair CMT32GMX4MAc3200C16 vs Corsair CMT32GMX4MAz3200C16 . That C vs Z .. looks like a revision model. C being old XMS module and Z meaning Vengeance module .. I'm not sure the difference. This makes more sense the C is the older version for x99 and such with the Z being the newer version for Ryzen. I could get away with the C since I have a x299 model.

I'm looking at two different memory kits. Both are 3200mhz rated with 16,18,18,36 timings. They are exactly the same in total memory, both 32 gb but one kit is 80 dollars higher than the other. Looking into the specs the one differences is one kit is rated at 2166 SPD with timings 15, 15, 15, 36 and the other is rated 2666 SPD with timings 18, 18, 18, 43. This is where I'm confused because both are rated at 3200Mhz but the SPD's are different. Does the higher SPD mean it can be overclocked more? I guess the other difference is that the 2133 SPD says nothing about Ryzen but the 2666 SPD version says it is Ryzen ready. I'm trying to figure out what is the difference between the two that would cause the manufacture to charge an additional $80 for the higher SPD. Is it because it is Ryzen speced? Is it because the SPD is higher thus easier to obtain more stable overclocks or at least tighter timings? Help? And thanks.

As stated I have one FE 1080ti card already watercooled. I have the ability to get another at a pretty reasonable price. I know that not all games scale well with SLI and I also know there are only a couple of monitors out there that can go 4k, gsync and over 60fps. So While I wait for those prices to go down, do you think it is reasonable to go the cheaper route and get a second 1080TI (already have the HD SLI bridge) or would a 2080TI be the better bet. The goal .. 4k gaming of at least 100FPS. I'm seeing most testing showing that this is practical in benchmarks, but how about real world settings? Just curious?

Yeah it was that strip. Not sure how I missed it. It was there when I put the block on, but I found it on the floor so it had to slip out when I was turning the card over. Oh well Solved and thanks.

Welp it looks like I missed a long strip. There was only one there when I thought there was two, so the mosfets weren't covered. They are now, everything reapplied, triple checked and attempt #2.

Reseeding, new driver didn't fix it. Looks like I'm draining the loop and taking off the waterblock.

I clocked it back but here is the thing. This card worked fine for a week with the blower/fan on. No freezing, nothing. I would play games all day long. The ONLY thing that changed was the waterblock I put on. I am pretty sure I put it on correctly. Since I had used this block before all the pads were exactly where they should be. 11 pads for the memory and two longer pads for the VRM and Mosfets. I even took out the instructions to make sure. Active monitoring is showing it isn't a temperature issue with the GPU and the only thing freezing is the screen of the game. I can still interact with things beneath the frozen image. It must be something I missed when i put on the block but I can't think of what it could be. I have used the NVIDIA driver uninstaller in safe mode and even rolled back the driver one version just in case a new driver came out in the last couple of days. It is all very strange. I'm going to reseed it and such.

So I got a refurbished GPU back after the first one died. I played with the 1080TI FE GPU with the blower on for a few days while I waited for some new fluid. I had zero issues playing games. The card even got up to about 85C but never froze or quit. I put on my EKWB as I did before and now when I play games, at random times the game picture will freeze. I can move my mouse around and click on things and the game is still going as I can hear the different things I click on but just the picture is frozen. The rest of my computer is just fine and I can end the game in task manager and all is fine. I have used HW64 to check the temps and it isn't getting higher than 60c. Memory usage seems good and I'm not getting any warnings or such as to anything being wrong. I'm going to try a new driver, but this is the same driver as I had before I installed the WB. I'm absolutely sure I put pads on all memory and the appropriate chips, but something of course is off. Suggestions?

heh nm... many problems with that card.

As I'm using it in SLI on a 4k monitor all i care about is rock solid 60 FPS Also we'll see what happens in the future with the new 4ks but I think that is a year down the road before they have the 144Hz up that will not be stupidly expensive.

If what you say is true I might consider another 1080ti that is cheaper but one that I can still get a EK waterblock for, they won't be exactly alike but close enough from the exterior... hmmm decisions.

I watercool them anyway so I'd be taking the fans off anyway. BTW finding blower type GPUs is difficult as they are 2x more expensive in many cases than cards with multiple fans, due to the cryptocurrency mania.

That is what I figured but for example the same EVGA card that is the SC2 Black, I believe has a different PCB, and probably a different type of chip and I was seeing people say THAT card wouldn't work. The weird thing is both the EVGA cards can use the EK-FC waterblock it seem.

So i have an MSI 1080 TI FE... I'm looking to get a second and found a good price on the EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 TI SC Black Edition. Now if I'm reading correctly what I'm researching, this EVGA does use the same reference PCB as the Founders Edition and should accept an EKWB the same as my FE card. There shouldn't be any issue of running them in SLI is there?

The shelf life is 2 years in a sealed bottle before mixing and like a year after it is opened and used. I still have like 6 months to go on that year.

My GPU died and I had to send it back for repair so I had to drain my Mayhem Pastel coolant and store it. It has been in an air tight container and i took it out to look. It had separated a bit but mixed up nicely. So is it okay to use if it has separated for a bit but been in a sealed, dust free environment? I plan to flush the reservoir and radiator a few times first. This is the first time I have had to have a coolant sit so long after mixing it with Distilled water, I honestly didn't know. Thanks!

It has been done on the Asus boards.. he was getting close to 20k Seq Reads. 8 900ps using 2 Hyper x16s.

The main reason I would consider them for RAID 0 is i have two 240GB drives. One is not enough to hold all my games/apps/windows OS ect. So I would have to back up two separate drives or in RAID 0 I can partition on RAID drive into C: D: and back up one time to cover both. It is a laziness thing. Also there is something about actually able to run RAID 0 from a bootable drive. I haven't been able to do that since the z97 series and never been able to do it for NVMe Drives. (I didn't have the z170/z270 series) But even those were limited by the DMI bottle neck. This is true RAID.

I got it all working. I think in the end I needed to at least get an initial partition on the RAID drive. Once that happened, I was able to create it in BIOS, then load up windows with a partition no problem. Honestly I probably won't keep the RAID 0 as my boot drive for long but I wanted to have it work cause one of the reasons I bought the x299 platform was to FINALLY be able to make a bootable RAID 0 drive that wasn't constrained by the DMI Limits.

I found a work around if i install windows on another SSD, then clone it over to the VROC drive, i can then boot on to it. Seems silly.

All important data is backed up on a nightly basis anyway, but thanks for the concern.

I'm actually planning to use these two as a bootable windows drive, that is the whole point with VROC. I have seen several friends online who got it working properly one person is running 8 drives using Vroc with the VMs. Yes I loaded the drivers up during the windows install with F6. I can see the array fine, but I can't create partitions thus I can't load windows on it.

This is on an Asus Rampage 6 x299 motherboard. So I got my second Intel 900p. I created the RAID 0 drive with no problems through BIOS. When I go to install Windows 10 Pro, I load up the F6 drivers (I have to do it twice) and I see my new RAID 0 drive. Awesome, but when I try to create the windows partitions it won't let me. Either I click apply and nothing happens or I will click apply and I get a partition error (each time i would get a series of like 5 separate errors). Just to be sure, I went into the command prompt and tried to manually make a partition and it tells me it cannot be done. I have done this both with my VROC key not installed and installed. I have done the following: 1. Tried this under BIOS 802 and the most current 1301 2. Set Sata to AHCI ... I also tried INTEL RAID 3. I set the PCI-e slots both to x4 VROC and then reboot 4. I then created the RAID 0 drive. I tried via Advanced and the F11. Both worked 5. I go into Windows installer and go through the setup windows. I get to where I would see my drive and hit F6 6. I have tried both the iaVROC and the iaStorE drivers in my efforts both will show me my new drive, but neither will allow me to create windows partitions. 7. I have also installed windows on another drive, and used the RSTe to create the drive. I went back into the windows setup and could see it but once again I could not create any partitions.

All these years, companies like Apple have been cheating their users out of boat loads of money for outrageous repair bills just to keep their proprietary information secret. There is a reason why manufacturers like Dell, HP, Compaq all tried proprietary systems. Only Their RAM, their battery, their Hard drives would work in their systems. You wanted to upgrade you had to pay triple the price of a normal hard drive. You wanted a repair, you paid triple the normal amount. All those companies stopped that practice when industry standards came about. I dislike companies that fleece their customers unnecessarily only for more money. I agree 100% if the user messes up the company shouldn't be on the hook, but to try to use a little thing like a sticker to take away the rights of a consumer is unfair practice and whether you agree with it against the law. If a company increases their prices for this, there will be other companies willing to step up in their place and not charge people for it. That is how the market goes. Out of curiosity if you don't watch this channel or care what they have to say cause everyone is wrong, why the heck are you even here? Either way I'm done.. Toodles.