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Golfball_Pro

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Everything posted by Golfball_Pro

  1. Looking back at it, If it's looping it could also be a software issue, something might be wrong with your os. At this point it's been a while and you may have already figured it out. If you have access to a working computer, make a bootable linux drive, unplug your os drive, and start it up after changing boot config to boot from usb. If it still loops then it's a hardware issue, if not, time to dust off that windows installation cd.
  2. First thing that comes to mind is that the CPU heatsink may have come loose. Or maybe your thermal paste is old and dry, hitting the tower caused thermal contact to break and no longer properly cool the cpu. This results in the cpu overheating and force shutting down in a few seconds to prevent damage from occuring. This happened with an older computer of mine, tried everything but turned out my thermal paste was dry as cardboard, and it was a poor application too :P. Take off the heatsink, clean off the heat spreader, and reapply thermal compound. If that doesn't work, another thing is that perhaps your PSU went bad? The shock may have been enough to displace a capacitor or cause a short or something. If you have a spare PSU lying around I'd swap that in to see if it fixes it, if it does, you need a new power supply.
  3. Update: Thanks for all the responses guys! He just messaged me 10 minutes ago saying he thought diagnosing it was too much trouble and ended up deciding to reinstall Windows. Apparently everything works fine now, so it was definitely a software thing. If he installs the problematic software again as he gets his system up and running he'll be able to link the issue to the cause better. Once again, I appreciate your guys' time, thank you!
  4. UPDATE: He ended up reinstalling Windows and it solved the issue for him. It would have been enough to uninstall programs one by one but he didn't have the time to troubleshoot like that so he took the most straightforward approach to fixing it. Hi Everyone, I really appreciate anyone spending their time to try to help me out. I've searched other forums, Google, the LinusTechTips forums, and I haven't found posts discussing my problem. Basic info: - OS Windows 10 64 bit. - Desktop PC (not a laptop) - USB Keyboard (not PS/2) So a friend of mine messaged me earlier saying his keyboard no longer inputs lowercase "p". Using caps lock makes capital "P" appear without issue, and with caps lock on, he can Shift+P to get a lowercase "p". He says that lowercase p works fine when on the login screen, but it stops shortly after logging in, making me think a program loads that interferes with inputs. So the key physically works as far as I can tell. And all the other keys work perfectly fine. He bought a new keyboard and the new one still does the same thing. Have any of you encountered this before? He has an Elgato Streamdeck and I know that does hotkey stuff but I don't think that would cause this issue. Is it possible for a motherboard issue to cause this? I'm trying to rule out that possibility, and from what he's described, I'm pretty sure it's software related, I'm not 100% sure though. I sent him basic instructions (try safe mode, try a different usb port, check any hotkey software...etc). I'll update the post whenever he replies. However, since this appears to be a software issue, I'd really appreciate people's input if you've ever encountered anything similar to this. If I left out any important information, please let me know and I'll update the post with the missing info. Once again, I'm very grateful to anyone who tries to help me out, your time is very much appreciated.
  5. Generally, with most SSDs (as long you don't go for the absolute cheapest), you don't have to worry about longevity, most of them have wear leveling technology which spreads read/write wear across all the flash cells, and regularly moves and evenly distributes data across the drive. The average 500gb SSD can last upwards of 1 Petabyte of writes (in synthetic tests), which means your SSD will likely last over 5 years of intense (200 gb per year) usage. In general, SSDs aren't the best for games since most games load most assets at the beginning, and then only load small amounts of data (like when entering a different area of the map). So it's a better idea to have a decent sized SSD (250-500 gb) to store games which frequently access data (to reduce loading times), and a 1-2 tb mechanical HDD for your other games which need storage access less frequently, that way you get more storage for less money.
  6. I have to disagree with "The wattage won't go away over time". Over time, components inside a PSU tend to degrade, and a 750w psu today, might drop as low as 700w or even lower over a period of 5+ years (depending on the quality of parts used in manufacturing). Depending on your power usage, as a rule of thumb, I'd add an extra 10-15% over your power draw. So If your system uses 400w, you should get a psu that is at least 460w, if not 500w. Most systems with a single gpu, minimal or no overclocking of cpu or gpu, and 2 or 3 hard drives, generally don't use more than 400w. So unless you'll be putting in multiple gpus in there, you should be fine with anything in the 500-600w psu range. If you can find a PSU with 100% Japanese solid capacitors, that's a bonus. Just my 2 cents, wish you luck
  7. Personally I'd find a safe place to recycle the old one and buy a new one with a good 80 plus rating (like silver or higher). If you know any computer repair stores nearby, depending on what they charge, it might be worth a shot to have someone there test it for you (open it up, check for visual signs of wear, use an oscilloscope to test stability of supplied power...etc), and they might be able to replace worn caps (refurbish it), or tell you it's not worth it and to get rid of it. Just my 2 cents though.
  8. Maybe Donald Trump could be "accidentally" misspelled as Donald Turnip ? In all seriousness though, the voters should have more choice than just two candidates, more choice means a better chance of someone good being voted right? It's unfortunate that it always comes down to just 2 candidates, instead of more candidates having an equal chance of winning the election... Just my two cents...
  9. Hi there IAmLamp! Now that you mention it, I do realize that adding a signature at the end is a little redundant given my name appears next to the post, however you are the first to point it out as it doesn't seem to have bothered anyone else. I will keep your suggestion in mind and will consider omitting it in future posts. I will however also point out that your wording came across as condescending and aggressive. I don't mind it much but other users here may find your attitude offensive and retaliate in a negative manner towards you. Another note, in the best interest of the community, I would like to remind you to try to remain on topic where possible, as commenting on people's signatures deviates significantly from the topic of Asus motherboards (in this particular thread). Thanks for the constructive criticism.
  10. Even if a phone is advertised as waterproof, at that kind of price I wouldn't have the guts to chance my arm like that. It's nice to have peace of mind knowing if you accidentally drop it in a bath or spill something on it that it won't break. I wouldn't keep it in my pocket when I go swimming though, or expose it to water intentionally.
  11. I'd say Linus uses Asus boards because they are high quality, reliable and just work. Imo you can't go wrong with Asus I , and other family members have always used Asus boards and we have never had any Asus boards die on us. We still have an old P5qpl-am motherboard that has been operating pretty much non stop over the past 10 or so years and is still going strong, no errors, has survived through several builds where other components like ram and psu have died. That Asus board is pretty indestructible imo . Maybe I've been extremely lucky, but until I have an Asus board die on me, I'll keep using them. Just my two cents. - Golfball_Pro
  12. Hey LMG Folks! I currently have no discrete graphics card, I'm currently using integrated Intel HD 3000 Graphics on a 5 year old Toshiba Laptop (P755-S5274) and as you can probably imagine, the graphics horsepower of this machine leaves quite a bit to be desired . I used to have a pretty decent Ivy bridge build with a Gigabyte Gtx 750ti in it but I have given that away to a family member as a gift. I would like to build a new one sooner rather than later and getting a Radeon Polaris card would most certainly help speed that up. I won't keep you too much longer, as i'm sure you're quite busy. Thank you all at LMG for the fantastic quality content. - Golfball_Pro
  13. When building a new PC, hardware advances so quickly that if you're waiting for the latest and greatest to be released, then you will end up waiting forever. If you wait for Skylake, by the time it is released, you may end up wanting to wait again because company X says they will release product Y in another month. You wait for product Y and after it is released... you get the idea. You want my opinion? Build now. Unless you absolutely HAVE TO have the latest and greatest there is, it doesn't make sense to wait or you may end up waiting forever. I just built an Ivy Bridge PC about 5 months ago because I found an awesome deal on a processor, motherboard and GPU (not a bundle by the way, I bought them separately). In comparison to my old build, it was much better. Sure it isn't the latest and greatest, but for my needs right now, it's enough and gets the job done. A comparatively similar Haswell build would have cost me about 35% more but I would only have got maybe 10-15% more performance out of the Haswell build. I guess what it comes down to is, unless there is a feature or performance increase that you absolutely must have, build a Haswell machine now, and save yourself the potential headaches that may come with a new product on the market. Haswell is tested and there are more people using it: if you find any weird issues, there is more of a chance of finding someone who found the issue too and can help you fix it. With any new product, most of the time you're on your own until more people adopt the new platform and start using it. -Golfball_Pro
  14. Unfortunately I may not be able to upgrade to Windows 10 when July 29th comes around. I'm currently on a 3 year old Toshiba Satellite P755-S5274 Laptop Running Windows 7 Service Pack 1. I have made an 80GB Partition on my Hard Drive to dual boot Windows 7 and Windows 10 Technical Preview (Build 10074) which is the latest version as of writing this. I did this because I wanted to test driver compatibility (or rather incompatibility) before it was time to actually upgrade. I had successfully installed Windows 10 Preview on the second partition and Windows 7 didn't seem to mind as it booted perfectly when selected from the Windows 10 boot menu. After downloading a few of the latest drivers from Toshiba's Support website, I got a Bluescreen error with the following information: "SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (athwbr.sys)" After Doing a little research, I found that this was an issue with the Atheros Wireless Adapter Driver from Qualcomm. I am not quite sure if there is anything I can do at this point. Please note that I didn't install this driver, Windows must have installed it by itself as it was installing the Windows 10 Preview. After I got this Bluescreen error, the Laptop rebooted and displayed the same error message before it even finished booting. At this point I couldn't even get to a working desktop environment where I could try uninstalling the offending driver. I tried reinstalling the Windows 10 Preview (Build 10074). This time after the first boot, I immediately uninstalled the Atheros Wireless Driver from the device manager menu. I then went to my other PC, downloaded the latest Atheros wireless driver from Toshiba's website, put it on a flash drive and transferred it to my laptop. Everything seemed to work fine. Windows 10 found my Wi-Fi network and connected without any issues. I began using Windows 10 and tried downloading the rest of my drivers (display, card reader, touch-pad,Ethernet...etc). About 5 minutes had passed and I once again got the same Bluescreen error : "SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (athwbr.sys)" The Laptop then proceeded to continuously boot loop: Reboot, Bluescreen, Reboot, Bluescreen, Reboot... (you get the idea). I have now deleted the 80Gb partition and deleted the Windows 10 entry from the boot manager using msconfig. My laptop now works just as it did before. But now I'm worried that my laptop may not be compatible with Windows 10 when the final RTM build is released. What do you guys think, any ideas I could try? Anyone else experience similar issues with a Toshiba Laptop? I have used Windows 10 in a virtual machine without issues so this is quite unusual. I appreciate any advice you guys can throw my way, thanks in advance, - Golfball_Pro
  15. Currently using my gaming pc for everyday stuff.
  16. @nicklmg thanks for the update man Good luck with getting your work done. We all appreciate what you do behind the scenes for the community.
  17. Unfortunately i'm going be studying for an exam tomorrow night. If I try hard, I may still be able to catch the stream.It starts at 19:00 for me. Wish me luck
  18. Yeah I guess you could. Although unless you are doing it to a rooted device, some app data may not get backed up or you may have some issues restoring the backup to a new device/ROM. If you specify what to backup like this: adb backup [-f <file>] [-apk|-noapk] [-shared|-noshared] [-all] [-system|nosystem] [<packages...>] Then you could just backup user data and ignore app data. I tried messing around with this and from my experience, it's just too buggy, takes a long time, and is not guaranteed to work. Maybe it was just my device (Nexus 4) and my particular configuration at the time (kernel version, Android version... etc), and it may work on other devices. If you would like to try it, this is the guide I used when trying it myself: http://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-nexus/general/guide-phone-backup-unlock-root-t1420351 I think it is pretty comprehensive but if anyone else knows of a better one, please feel free to post a link to it. That is only if you want to (attempt to) backup the device in an unrooted state. If the device is already rooted, you can use an app such as Titanium Backup (found on the Google Play Store) to backup all apps and app data. I have used it and it works really well, assuming that you are going to be using the same Android version. I find that it is best to connect the phone to the computer and manually transfer personal data (Photos, Videos, Music...), backing up contacts to the SIM card, and using a third party app to backup your text messages (if you feel that is necessary). Afterwards, start clean with a brand new flash of your preferred ROM. Oh yeah, I don't accept any responsibility for bricked devices resulting from any advice given. I am almost certain that the above methods work, but unforeseen circumstances (cat yanking cable out of computer, power surges, blackouts/brownouts) can happen. Once you are rooted though, backing up data should no longer be a problem.
  19. I agree with @LarsReviews, Nexus devices are the easiest to mod. If you follow an XDA guide exactly as it is written, hardly anything can go wrong. Just make sure that you are using a good micro usb cable (solid connection, not unstable easily disconnects) and that your computer does not lose power while you are flashing. Make sure that the custom recovery you get matches your device exactly. I prefer TWRP but you could use CWM (doesn't make much of a difference). Before flashing, make sure you make a Nandroid backup (just called backup in recovery) of your phone. That way, if something goes wrong, you can restore it exactly to its current configuration. Once you have custom recovery installed, it's easy to recover from a softbrick. Have a ROM you know works handy, enter adb-sideload mode on the device, and push the (ROM).zip file to the phone using ADB on your PC. Good luck and have fun Remember: There is always the risk (albeit small) of bricking your device... It's half the fun
  20. Hey Guys, I was looking through the Linus Memes thread and found something that is appropriate for this situation: Here's the link to the original thread: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/11302-post-linus-memes-here-contest-closed-but-feel-free-to-keep-posting/page-10
  21. @Legion I agree, people should also check for the account verification sign, that little tick next to a verified channel is there for a reason. One should use precaution before clicking a link. It is possible to get caught off guard though. I myself have almost clicked on a link without thinking. Someone gained unauthorised access to one of my friend's Twitter account and posted a link to (supposedly) Instagram (bit.ly link). The initial tweet was followed by several notifications from other friends warning not to click it. Had the others not warned me about it, I would have clicked it and also lost access to my Twitter account. Don't follow bit.ly links, Linus should use regular links, even then, you should hover your mouse over the link and look in the bottom left corner on your browser window to see where the link actually leads to.
  22. Hey guys, Linus tweeted about this yesterday, he said that it's up to Nvidia whether or not an archive of it is put up on YouTube.
  23. I think it's kinda silly to believe that a tech community as big as the LTT community would be a good target for one of these scams. If you think about it, we are all well informed about these types of security risks and won't click on random links that someone sends to us without verifying it's authenticity. (That is, unless the person is really drunk, or really excited and can't help themselves). I can, however, understand how one would be easy to fool in a situation like this in which one is messaged by a famous YouTuber. I don't think that this person is a long term subscriber (has been subscribed for a long time and genuinely finds the content useful). No one in the LTT community would be that low as to scam other members. I have not recieved a message yet, I will post here if I do later. I hope nobody has actually been scammed. Good luck, I hope this impostor gets caught soon. -thetrueagle-
  24. I would recommend that you wait until the next Nexus device comes out (Nexus 6/X). Nexus devices have probably the best price/performance ratio of any smartphone on the market. They are usually only slightly less powerful than other manufacturers' flagships (sometimes even better) and it's gonna last you a long time. I am using an LG Nexus 4 (2012) and it still performs all the tasks I need it to perform (and I am a pretty heavy smartphone user). Marques Brownlee (MKBHD) made a funny retweet recently and I had a good laugh: https://twitter.com/MKBHD/status/509458788563566593 Ultimately it's up to you to decide what phone will meet your needs. Good luck in choosing your next phone. thetrueagle
  25. The productivity apps I use are: - Adobe Reader - Amazon - Google Calendar - Google Drive - Hotspot Shield VPN - Google Keep - Google News and Weather - Quickoffice (now integrated with Drive) NO LONGER AVAILABLE AS A STANDALONE APP - Google Translate (Really useful if you are learning a new language or if you are in a foreign country) - Teamviewer All the above applications are free and available to download via the Google Play store (except for Quickoffice). BTW @OP, what Android device are you currently using as your daily driver? Thanks
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