Golfball_Pro

Looking back at it, If it's looping it could also be a software issue, something might be wrong with your os. At this point it's been a while and you may have already figured it out. If you have access to a working computer, make a bootable linux drive, unplug your os drive, and start it up after changing boot config to boot from usb. If it still loops then it's a hardware issue, if not, time to dust off that windows installation cd.

First thing that comes to mind is that the CPU heatsink may have come loose. Or maybe your thermal paste is old and dry, hitting the tower caused thermal contact to break and no longer properly cool the cpu. This results in the cpu overheating and force shutting down in a few seconds to prevent damage from occuring. This happened with an older computer of mine, tried everything but turned out my thermal paste was dry as cardboard, and it was a poor application too :P. Take off the heatsink, clean off the heat spreader, and reapply thermal compound. If that doesn't work, another thing is that perhaps your PSU went bad? The shock may have been enough to displace a capacitor or cause a short or something. If you have a spare PSU lying around I'd swap that in to see if it fixes it, if it does, you need a new power supply.

Update: Thanks for all the responses guys! He just messaged me 10 minutes ago saying he thought diagnosing it was too much trouble and ended up deciding to reinstall Windows. Apparently everything works fine now, so it was definitely a software thing. If he installs the problematic software again as he gets his system up and running he'll be able to link the issue to the cause better. Once again, I appreciate your guys' time, thank you!

UPDATE: He ended up reinstalling Windows and it solved the issue for him. It would have been enough to uninstall programs one by one but he didn't have the time to troubleshoot like that so he took the most straightforward approach to fixing it. Hi Everyone, I really appreciate anyone spending their time to try to help me out. I've searched other forums, Google, the LinusTechTips forums, and I haven't found posts discussing my problem. Basic info: - OS Windows 10 64 bit. - Desktop PC (not a laptop) - USB Keyboard (not PS/2) So a friend of mine messaged me earlier saying his keyboard no longer inputs lowercase "p". Using caps lock makes capital "P" appear without issue, and with caps lock on, he can Shift+P to get a lowercase "p". He says that lowercase p works fine when on the login screen, but it stops shortly after logging in, making me think a program loads that interferes with inputs. So the key physically works as far as I can tell. And all the other keys work perfectly fine. He bought a new keyboard and the new one still does the same thing. Have any of you encountered this before? He has an Elgato Streamdeck and I know that does hotkey stuff but I don't think that would cause this issue. Is it possible for a motherboard issue to cause this? I'm trying to rule out that possibility, and from what he's described, I'm pretty sure it's software related, I'm not 100% sure though. I sent him basic instructions (try safe mode, try a different usb port, check any hotkey software...etc). I'll update the post whenever he replies. However, since this appears to be a software issue, I'd really appreciate people's input if you've ever encountered anything similar to this. If I left out any important information, please let me know and I'll update the post with the missing info. Once again, I'm very grateful to anyone who tries to help me out, your time is very much appreciated.

Generally, with most SSDs (as long you don't go for the absolute cheapest), you don't have to worry about longevity, most of them have wear leveling technology which spreads read/write wear across all the flash cells, and regularly moves and evenly distributes data across the drive. The average 500gb SSD can last upwards of 1 Petabyte of writes (in synthetic tests), which means your SSD will likely last over 5 years of intense (200 gb per year) usage. In general, SSDs aren't the best for games since most games load most assets at the beginning, and then only load small amounts of data (like when entering a different area of the map). So it's a better idea to have a decent sized SSD (250-500 gb) to store games which frequently access data (to reduce loading times), and a 1-2 tb mechanical HDD for your other games which need storage access less frequently, that way you get more storage for less money.

I have to disagree with "The wattage won't go away over time". Over time, components inside a PSU tend to degrade, and a 750w psu today, might drop as low as 700w or even lower over a period of 5+ years (depending on the quality of parts used in manufacturing). Depending on your power usage, as a rule of thumb, I'd add an extra 10-15% over your power draw. So If your system uses 400w, you should get a psu that is at least 460w, if not 500w. Most systems with a single gpu, minimal or no overclocking of cpu or gpu, and 2 or 3 hard drives, generally don't use more than 400w. So unless you'll be putting in multiple gpus in there, you should be fine with anything in the 500-600w psu range. If you can find a PSU with 100% Japanese solid capacitors, that's a bonus. Just my 2 cents, wish you luck

Personally I'd find a safe place to recycle the old one and buy a new one with a good 80 plus rating (like silver or higher). If you know any computer repair stores nearby, depending on what they charge, it might be worth a shot to have someone there test it for you (open it up, check for visual signs of wear, use an oscilloscope to test stability of supplied power...etc), and they might be able to replace worn caps (refurbish it), or tell you it's not worth it and to get rid of it. Just my 2 cents though.

Maybe Donald Trump could be "accidentally" misspelled as Donald Turnip ? In all seriousness though, the voters should have more choice than just two candidates, more choice means a better chance of someone good being voted right? It's unfortunate that it always comes down to just 2 candidates, instead of more candidates having an equal chance of winning the election... Just my two cents...

Hi there IAmLamp! Now that you mention it, I do realize that adding a signature at the end is a little redundant given my name appears next to the post, however you are the first to point it out as it doesn't seem to have bothered anyone else. I will keep your suggestion in mind and will consider omitting it in future posts. I will however also point out that your wording came across as condescending and aggressive. I don't mind it much but other users here may find your attitude offensive and retaliate in a negative manner towards you. Another note, in the best interest of the community, I would like to remind you to try to remain on topic where possible, as commenting on people's signatures deviates significantly from the topic of Asus motherboards (in this particular thread). Thanks for the constructive criticism.

Even if a phone is advertised as waterproof, at that kind of price I wouldn't have the guts to chance my arm like that. It's nice to have peace of mind knowing if you accidentally drop it in a bath or spill something on it that it won't break. I wouldn't keep it in my pocket when I go swimming though, or expose it to water intentionally.

I'd say Linus uses Asus boards because they are high quality, reliable and just work. Imo you can't go wrong with Asus I , and other family members have always used Asus boards and we have never had any Asus boards die on us. We still have an old P5qpl-am motherboard that has been operating pretty much non stop over the past 10 or so years and is still going strong, no errors, has survived through several builds where other components like ram and psu have died. That Asus board is pretty indestructible imo . Maybe I've been extremely lucky, but until I have an Asus board die on me, I'll keep using them. Just my two cents. - Golfball_Pro

Hey LMG Folks! I currently have no discrete graphics card, I'm currently using integrated Intel HD 3000 Graphics on a 5 year old Toshiba Laptop (P755-S5274) and as you can probably imagine, the graphics horsepower of this machine leaves quite a bit to be desired . I used to have a pretty decent Ivy bridge build with a Gigabyte Gtx 750ti in it but I have given that away to a family member as a gift. I would like to build a new one sooner rather than later and getting a Radeon Polaris card would most certainly help speed that up. I won't keep you too much longer, as i'm sure you're quite busy. Thank you all at LMG for the fantastic quality content. - Golfball_Pro

When building a new PC, hardware advances so quickly that if you're waiting for the latest and greatest to be released, then you will end up waiting forever. If you wait for Skylake, by the time it is released, you may end up wanting to wait again because company X says they will release product Y in another month. You wait for product Y and after it is released... you get the idea. You want my opinion? Build now. Unless you absolutely HAVE TO have the latest and greatest there is, it doesn't make sense to wait or you may end up waiting forever. I just built an Ivy Bridge PC about 5 months ago because I found an awesome deal on a processor, motherboard and GPU (not a bundle by the way, I bought them separately). In comparison to my old build, it was much better. Sure it isn't the latest and greatest, but for my needs right now, it's enough and gets the job done. A comparatively similar Haswell build would have cost me about 35% more but I would only have got maybe 10-15% more performance out of the Haswell build. I guess what it comes down to is, unless there is a feature or performance increase that you absolutely must have, build a Haswell machine now, and save yourself the potential headaches that may come with a new product on the market. Haswell is tested and there are more people using it: if you find any weird issues, there is more of a chance of finding someone who found the issue too and can help you fix it. With any new product, most of the time you're on your own until more people adopt the new platform and start using it. -Golfball_Pro

Unfortunately I may not be able to upgrade to Windows 10 when July 29th comes around. I'm currently on a 3 year old Toshiba Satellite P755-S5274 Laptop Running Windows 7 Service Pack 1. I have made an 80GB Partition on my Hard Drive to dual boot Windows 7 and Windows 10 Technical Preview (Build 10074) which is the latest version as of writing this. I did this because I wanted to test driver compatibility (or rather incompatibility) before it was time to actually upgrade. I had successfully installed Windows 10 Preview on the second partition and Windows 7 didn't seem to mind as it booted perfectly when selected from the Windows 10 boot menu. After downloading a few of the latest drivers from Toshiba's Support website, I got a Bluescreen error with the following information: "SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (athwbr.sys)" After Doing a little research, I found that this was an issue with the Atheros Wireless Adapter Driver from Qualcomm. I am not quite sure if there is anything I can do at this point. Please note that I didn't install this driver, Windows must have installed it by itself as it was installing the Windows 10 Preview. After I got this Bluescreen error, the Laptop rebooted and displayed the same error message before it even finished booting. At this point I couldn't even get to a working desktop environment where I could try uninstalling the offending driver. I tried reinstalling the Windows 10 Preview (Build 10074). This time after the first boot, I immediately uninstalled the Atheros Wireless Driver from the device manager menu. I then went to my other PC, downloaded the latest Atheros wireless driver from Toshiba's website, put it on a flash drive and transferred it to my laptop. Everything seemed to work fine. Windows 10 found my Wi-Fi network and connected without any issues. I began using Windows 10 and tried downloading the rest of my drivers (display, card reader, touch-pad,Ethernet...etc). About 5 minutes had passed and I once again got the same Bluescreen error : "SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (athwbr.sys)" The Laptop then proceeded to continuously boot loop: Reboot, Bluescreen, Reboot, Bluescreen, Reboot... (you get the idea). I have now deleted the 80Gb partition and deleted the Windows 10 entry from the boot manager using msconfig. My laptop now works just as it did before. But now I'm worried that my laptop may not be compatible with Windows 10 when the final RTM build is released. What do you guys think, any ideas I could try? Anyone else experience similar issues with a Toshiba Laptop? I have used Windows 10 in a virtual machine without issues so this is quite unusual. I appreciate any advice you guys can throw my way, thanks in advance, - Golfball_Pro

Currently using my gaming pc for everyday stuff.