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About Golfball_Pro

  • Title
    Junior Member

Contact Methods

  • Twitch.tv
  • Twitter

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling


  • CPU
    Intel Core i5-2410m
  • Motherboard
    Toshiba PEQAA 1.00
  • RAM
    6GB Samsung DDR3
  • GPU
    Intel Integrated HD 3000 Graphics
  • Case
    Laptop Shell
  • Storage
    500gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD
  • PSU
    Toshiba 12V Power brick
  • Display(s)
    Toshiba TN 1366*768 15 inch Built in Display
  • Cooling
    stock cooler (Laptop) with AS5 thermal compound
  • Keyboard
    Built in laptop chiclet keyboard
  • Mouse
    Basic HP Wired Mouse
  • Sound
    Logitech Z150 Speakers
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional 64 Bit

Recent Profile Visitors

1,165 profile views
  1. Looking back at it, If it's looping it could also be a software issue, something might be wrong with your os. At this point it's been a while and you may have already figured it out. If you have access to a working computer, make a bootable linux drive, unplug your os drive, and start it up after changing boot config to boot from usb. If it still loops then it's a hardware issue, if not, time to dust off that windows installation cd.
  2. A cursor indicates it POSTs fine and gets into Windows before something goes wrong. I'd suggest using another computer to make a Windows recovery usb/dvd and use its troubleshooting tools to try repair the installation. The recovery media can, among other things, restore to a previous restore point (usually automatically created). If none of these fix your issue, assuming you're on Windows 10 (you never specified your OS), you can "Reset This PC" from the recovery media. This basically reinstalls Windows, while keeping your data saved.
  3. First thing that comes to mind is that the CPU heatsink may have come loose. Or maybe your thermal paste is old and dry, hitting the tower caused thermal contact to break and no longer properly cool the cpu. This results in the cpu overheating and force shutting down in a few seconds to prevent damage from occuring. This happened with an older computer of mine, tried everything but turned out my thermal paste was dry as cardboard, and it was a poor application too :P. Take off the heatsink, clean off the heat spreader, and reapply thermal compound. If that doesn't work, another thing is that perhaps your PSU went bad? The shock may have been enough to displace a capacitor or cause a short or something. If you have a spare PSU lying around I'd swap that in to see if it fixes it, if it does, you need a new power supply.
  4. Update: Thanks for all the responses guys! He just messaged me 10 minutes ago saying he thought diagnosing it was too much trouble and ended up deciding to reinstall Windows. Apparently everything works fine now, so it was definitely a software thing. If he installs the problematic software again as he gets his system up and running he'll be able to link the issue to the cause better. Once again, I appreciate your guys' time, thank you!
  5. UPDATE: He ended up reinstalling Windows and it solved the issue for him. It would have been enough to uninstall programs one by one but he didn't have the time to troubleshoot like that so he took the most straightforward approach to fixing it. Hi Everyone, I really appreciate anyone spending their time to try to help me out. I've searched other forums, Google, the LinusTechTips forums, and I haven't found posts discussing my problem. Basic info: - OS Windows 10 64 bit. - Desktop PC (not a laptop) - USB Keyboard (not PS/2) So a friend of mine messaged me earlier saying his keyboard no longer inputs lowercase "p". Using caps lock makes capital "P" appear without issue, and with caps lock on, he can Shift+P to get a lowercase "p". He says that lowercase p works fine when on the login screen, but it stops shortly after logging in, making me think a program loads that interferes with inputs. So the key physically works as far as I can tell. And all the other keys work perfectly fine. He bought a new keyboard and the new one still does the same thing. Have any of you encountered this before? He has an Elgato Streamdeck and I know that does hotkey stuff but I don't think that would cause this issue. Is it possible for a motherboard issue to cause this? I'm trying to rule out that possibility, and from what he's described, I'm pretty sure it's software related, I'm not 100% sure though. I sent him basic instructions (try safe mode, try a different usb port, check any hotkey software...etc). I'll update the post whenever he replies. However, since this appears to be a software issue, I'd really appreciate people's input if you've ever encountered anything similar to this. If I left out any important information, please let me know and I'll update the post with the missing info. Once again, I'm very grateful to anyone who tries to help me out, your time is very much appreciated.
  6. Generally, with most SSDs (as long you don't go for the absolute cheapest), you don't have to worry about longevity, most of them have wear leveling technology which spreads read/write wear across all the flash cells, and regularly moves and evenly distributes data across the drive. The average 500gb SSD can last upwards of 1 Petabyte of writes (in synthetic tests), which means your SSD will likely last over 5 years of intense (200 gb per year) usage. In general, SSDs aren't the best for games since most games load most assets at the beginning, and then only load small amounts of data (like when entering a different area of the map). So it's a better idea to have a decent sized SSD (250-500 gb) to store games which frequently access data (to reduce loading times), and a 1-2 tb mechanical HDD for your other games which need storage access less frequently, that way you get more storage for less money.
  7. I have to disagree with "The wattage won't go away over time". Over time, components inside a PSU tend to degrade, and a 750w psu today, might drop as low as 700w or even lower over a period of 5+ years (depending on the quality of parts used in manufacturing). Depending on your power usage, as a rule of thumb, I'd add an extra 10-15% over your power draw. So If your system uses 400w, you should get a psu that is at least 460w, if not 500w. Most systems with a single gpu, minimal or no overclocking of cpu or gpu, and 2 or 3 hard drives, generally don't use more than 400w. So unless you'll be putting in multiple gpus in there, you should be fine with anything in the 500-600w psu range. If you can find a PSU with 100% Japanese solid capacitors, that's a bonus. Just my 2 cents, wish you luck
  8. Personally I'd find a safe place to recycle the old one and buy a new one with a good 80 plus rating (like silver or higher). If you know any computer repair stores nearby, depending on what they charge, it might be worth a shot to have someone there test it for you (open it up, check for visual signs of wear, use an oscilloscope to test stability of supplied power...etc), and they might be able to replace worn caps (refurbish it), or tell you it's not worth it and to get rid of it. Just my 2 cents though.
  9. Maybe Donald Trump could be "accidentally" misspelled as Donald Turnip ? In all seriousness though, the voters should have more choice than just two candidates, more choice means a better chance of someone good being voted right? It's unfortunate that it always comes down to just 2 candidates, instead of more candidates having an equal chance of winning the election... Just my two cents...
  10. No problem at all. I'm happy that your issue is fixed and your PC works fine now. Have a nice day
  11. Hmm, well that's strange It could be another thing. Since reinstalling the driver worked, but then the issue came back after a couple of days, it may be that you have installed an older driver version on top of the new one through windows update. Either you have automatic updates enabled, or you had a long list of updates and just installed all of them without noticing the graphics adapter driver in there. Yes I know it sounds weird, but windows update delivers software other than windows updates to your pc, like driver updates and Microsoft Office updates... etc. Try to check your windows update history and see if any graphics drivers were installed.
  12. Well, It's a desktop so you might as well change it to "High Performance" mode. Try reinstalling your graphics driver and see if that solves the issue.
  13. Hi there Ellen_orangecloud, I would first check your power settings for "screen off after X minutes", "Sleep after X minutes"...etc to make sure that it isn't a power saving setting gone wild Next, try updating your integrated graphics driver to the latest, and if it already is the latest, uninstall and reinstall it. If the above two don't fix the problem, let us know, I wish you good luck
  14. Hi there IAmLamp! Now that you mention it, I do realize that adding a signature at the end is a little redundant given my name appears next to the post, however you are the first to point it out as it doesn't seem to have bothered anyone else. I will keep your suggestion in mind and will consider omitting it in future posts. I will however also point out that your wording came across as condescending and aggressive. I don't mind it much but other users here may find your attitude offensive and retaliate in a negative manner towards you. Another note, in the best interest of the community, I would like to remind you to try to remain on topic where possible, as commenting on people's signatures deviates significantly from the topic of Asus motherboards (in this particular thread). Thanks for the constructive criticism.
  15. Even if a phone is advertised as waterproof, at that kind of price I wouldn't have the guts to chance my arm like that. It's nice to have peace of mind knowing if you accidentally drop it in a bath or spill something on it that it won't break. I wouldn't keep it in my pocket when I go swimming though, or expose it to water intentionally.