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Everything posted by Flashie

  1. You haven't yet installed windows on the SSD, seeing as your 2TB hard drive is still your C/ drive If you want to keep windows on your hard drive and simply just use your ssd like a normal drive, right click the windows icon, click disk management, look for the one that has a black stripe, and right click it. Should give you an option like "Initialize disk".
  2. I've been looking into this for my own setup here, Both for the switches, routers, nas, and the PC's. At the rate these rolling blackouts are happening though, (2-3 times per/day for 2 and a half hours at a time [4 hours at a time in the cities]) it may even be more advantageous to invest in an Inverter/Solar package My test bench's PSU is a victim of this electrical-outrage too. The list of casualties gets longer.
  3. What would be the recommended chipset on a budget-AM4 socket board for gaming? You and @NunoLava1998 both mention the B450 boards. I've let my client know to test the card, and RMA the board if the card is good. MSI claims that it isnt their OEM boards with the retail BIOS's on them, but rather boards made and sold to order to specific big-name vendors. Could this mean that the vendor i bought it from (Or even their supplier), is selling these to-order boards with the retail firmware on? I do not trust this vendor as far as i can throw them (They're pretty big here, and i even bought my personal rig from them 5 years ago, But since then they've gotten scummy with their marketing and pricing tactics.)
  4. The inability to flash is because of a retail bios being installed from factory, which they simply out right refuse to even go anywhere near (https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=290677.0) I agree with you on MSI being trash. I run an ASUS board on both my personal rigs and haven't had issues.
  5. Hehe, He's a personal friend of mine too. I doubt that is his intentions, as he is aware I am in the rat-race too and cant afford to buy him new parts We installed a surge protector on the outlets that his electronics are connected to after the first surge fried the first board. They're only rated for so much of a surge though, and they happen constantly here because of rolling blackouts
  6. I'll have him test the GPU in a different mobo and plug HDMI into there to test, If still the same result I'll try and get out to him with my personal rig's 970 to test that. Guess there's another callout
  7. From what I could find, It was the cheapest option, and the only option he could afford
  8. We tried the same monitor that isnt being detected by the GPU on his laptop which worked fine, using the same HDMI cable
  9. Yesterday my client messaged me to tell me that the board suddenly lost internet connectivity, and HDMI signal to the monitor. Only picking up the DVI monitor. He went to device manager to find 6 devices showing as having driver issues. Now i have never heard of one GPU port dieing and taking down a bunch of mobo devices with it and then coming back to full functionality a few hours later, And that is how i came to the conclusion it was the CPU/Mobo combo.
  10. I've built a lot of PC's. This is my first Ryzen build. My client's old LGA1150 i5 build was killed by a power surge, He wanted something cheap as a replacement, and thus switched to AMD for his gaming. I built the system for him. It has an MSI A320M PRO-M2 V2 motherboard (Bios unflashable because MSI apparently does this really cheap "Retail BIOS flashing not permitted" thing... Would've solved all my problems by now). It has 8GB HyperX 3200MHz RAM, A Ryzen 3 2200G, And a Galax GTX 960 EXOC. I've installed the GPU drivers probably around 4 or 5 times now by this point [uninstalled them prior by using DDU] I've installed the chipset drivers several times too in trying to fix this. The GPU outputs to 2 monitors. 1 over DVI (to VGA adapter), and the other over HDMI. For the past week the HDMI just gave up. Its not the cable, as that works with any other device you plug into it. Its also not the GPU driver, because i've reinstalled that several times. Windows does not even detect the HDMI monitor when its plugged in. IGPU Multi-monitor is not an option on this board, so plugging it into the mobo wont help. I've worked on, serviced, and built a few hundred PC's (I was a tech in a local PC Shop back in the Windows 10 upgrade period), but never has a brand new PC given me as many problems as this build. If you can figure this out, You'll be God himself. [tl;dr] I'm at wits end, and angry at computers. F'ing Ryzen...
  11. If it still doesn't work with the CMOS Reset button, There's a CMOS Reset jumper too that you can try. Remember to unplug the PC before resetting the CMOS
  12. Your motherboard manual shows that it has diagnostics LED's. Does any of them light up at the bottom right of the board when powered on? If that 16gb of ram is multiple dimm's, Try disconnecting all of the sticks, and trying them 1 by 1 in ram socket 2 (2nd from the left) Try resetting your BIOS by clearing the CMOS (Unplug your computer, and use a screwdriver to connect these two pins on your motherboard for ~10 seconds before plugging back in and testing again)
  13. Does it POST? Do you have a different graphics card you can test with? Even if it is a really basic bus-powered one like this:
  14. Please read. My Antec Edge 750W 80+ gold psu is not grounding as it is supposed to (and has for the past 4 years). Let me set a few things out the way. We have rolling blackouts (pre-planned government-organised power outages) throughout the day which blows many electrical components (Trust me, I'm the technician that goes on callouts to diagnose them). All of my electrical outlets in the building is grounded, with a main earth leakage system. All sockets and extension leads that have computers plugged in, are surge protected. The power supply is powered off (psu switch) prior to the rolling blackouts. It is not static discharge. *What the problem is* The power supply is shocking anything connected to its metal body, and grounding none of the electricity circulating back to it. I found this out when I tried to connect a USB to the mobo of my test pc, and received a nasty continuous static-like charge (It is not static.) I tried a different outlet on a different breaker, using a different kettle cord. Same result. I took the psu out of the case without any components connected, and plugged it in. I start receiving the shock whenever I touch the fan grill as indicated in the photo below: It is not a static charge (Those will stop after discharging), But the shock does stop when I hold my other hand to the main body of the psu. If not, all components shock you, including the psu fan grill. Any components connected to it still works, But holds that shocking charge in any metal parts of it. What part of the psu has stopped working in order to keep charge like this? Is saying it isn't grounding the electricity accurate? What can I do in future to avoid this?
  15. Tried a CMOS Reset? (Jumpers or Battery, No ssd/hdd connected)
  16. My brother (lives 400km away at uni) plays league. He has an i7 6700K. He has an MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Carbon Gen 2 motherboard. He has 8GB 2400MHz Crucial ram (1x8GB) Recently he's been complaining about Memory Management BSOD's happening more frequently than previously. BIOS is updated to the very latest version available on MSI's support page for the mobo. SFC /scannow has been run. Graphics drivers have been updated. Chipset drivers reinstalled. Windows Memory Diagnostics run (No errors found) [[[[[[[[[[[[[ What is the solution? ]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] Keeping in mind I have no way to test the PC hardware immediately as i am 400km away. (Would have to wait a few more months till his Uni is out of session to do anything myself)
  17. A friend called me to pick up their PC that had died after one of our daily country-wide blackouts. Don't go thinking immediately that this is the cause though. Knowing about the blackouts, he removed his PC's power cable, which he plugged in again after said blackout. The PC would start, spin the fans really fast, but output nothing. I disassembled the whole PC to the barebones, and tested using known-good equipment (PSU, RAM, even CPU, over both on-board and dedicated graphics, separately and together), Cleared the BIOS, replaced CMOS Battery, and was able to pinpoint it down to a dead motherboard. I informed my friend, and he has in the meantime bought, and is waiting on, a new Ryzen upgrade kit (RAM CPU and Mobo). This was all during Tuesday evening and Wednesday morning. Today (Thursday), during one of the blackouts, I reassembled the PC using the dead mobo, while waiting on the new parts. After the blackout, I turned the PC back on, Just to find it now miraculously working again and giving an output over onboard graphics. I restarted the PC, and after restarting, It was dead once more. What is the most likely cause of this that i should inform my friend of? His house does have earth-leakage/grounded electrical. Thanks tl;dr Mobo died, But PSU, CPU, RAM and HDD's are all fine. What's the cause?
  18. Thanks, I went into uefi and reset it all to optimized settings, forced primary monitor onto GPU, and enabled cpu multi-monitor (Because VGA over mobo and HDMI over gpu). Now it's running a lot smoother. Still very minor frames being dropped along with the least-noticeable chugs, But it works now. So to you good sir, I say thanks. (current)
  19. For the past almost month and a half i've laid off of playing my favourite game GTA Online because i cannot watch videos on my second monitor while playing it anymore as i've been doing for the past 4 years on this same build of mine. I have an MSI GTX 970 Armour, 16GB of DDR3 1600MHz Kingston HyperX RAM, and an i7-4790k all stock with no overclocks done by me. Whenever i alt tab out of GTA, the chugging stops, But as soon as i'm in GTA, everything goes to ****. Videos on the second monitor start buffering and stumbling forward more than a learner in a manual car. I've had it so bad that even my keyboard's software has had trouble controlling the LED's (it made for a pretty cool video though: I fired up Afterburner and took stats as i alt tabbed between GTA and my video. The chugging stops/starts depending on which of the two are the active window. CPU temps are at 80 (Nothing i can do. Africa's a bi*ch this time of year). I want to know why does only 2 of my CPU/Threads do all of the active work (maxed out usage while the rest is basically 0%) No other programs were active at the time except for a single no-extensions-enabled tab of Brave Browser, and GTA Online. Some services running in the background like my corsair lighting, which makes no difference if i disable or enable it. Please be my saviour.
  20. I can only wish for 90+ ping. Right now, regardless of anybody on the internet at our house, I have 200+ ping to EU servers. Its horse-doodoo but i have to live with it because Haste cant do much of anything for people like me.
  21. Hey guys; Thanks for the replies. I decided something odd before coming back to check the forum replies I compared the settings of each of the Office installs. What i found was interesting. The seperators (to say like $5.36 instead of $5,36) for my desktop was " . " for thousands and " , " for tens. The seperators for my laptop was " , " for the thousands and " . " for the tens. My desktops was set to that based on what my windows install on this PC uses; And considering this was a custom build with OEM windows installed, and the laptop being bought new from an importer with windows pre-installed; it would make sense (little odds it being that both would be different) that they were different. I swapped the comma and the dot separator around on my desktop to match how it is in the laptops install settings; and lo and behold; all the data was there on the next query refresh Now i can finally continue with trades. I appreciate the help folks. *ps* I will change my clickbaity title back to something more relevant to what i googled trying to find a solution to this problem so others can find this post in future
  22. On my laptop - Excel works fine. I make my web queries to pull live tables for excel; and it works. On my desktop - I open that same excel file; On the same version of Office (Hell, same bloody license even); And it gives me so much trouble. It's literally pushing me to that point right now (I am livid because just to get this excel document i've already had to go find my laptop and put its hard drive back to get the file, because apparently my PC's admin account isnt admin enough to copy and paste the file from an external enclosure. All information shown in the excel documents aren't of any use to anyone besides me. This is on my desktop - Note all the #Value's. NOT FUNCTIONAL This is the EXACT SAME Unmodified Not changed Literally just copy and pasted over; excel file on my laptop. Ive just reinstalled office for the 3rd time on my desktop trying to fix this. Thats not the problem. Please PLEASE help. Before i lose it
  23. Closed Synergy - that fixed it. Thanks for replying. (answers no, not currently )