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Flashie

Member
  • Content Count

    784
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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5 Followers

About Flashie

  • Title
    CompTIA-proclaimed 'Technician'
  • Birthday 1999-11-27

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    Flash#0407
  • Steam
    http://steamcommunity.com/id/FlashZA
  • Twitter
    Bro_Flash

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    George, Western Cape, South Africa
  • Interests
    Gaming; Networking; Computers; Photography
  • Biography
    Quit stalking me ;)
  • Occupation
    Student

System

  • CPU
    i7-4790K
  • Motherboard
    Asus B85M Gamer
  • RAM
    16GB DDR3 1866MHz HyperX (4x4gb)
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 970 Armour 4GB OC
  • Case
    Phanteks P400S Tempered Special Edition White
  • Storage
    x1 128GB SSD ; x1 1TB HDD ; x1 2TB HDD; x1 3TB HDD
  • PSU
    Super Flower SF-550F14MT 550W
  • Display(s)
    Dell SE2416H 24" 1080p; JVC 32" Flatscreen 720p
  • Cooling
    Stock Cooler :(
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 RGB Mk.2
  • Mouse
    Corsair Glaive
  • Sound
    Corsair Void
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional 64-bit

Recent Profile Visitors

1,640 profile views
  1. You haven't yet installed windows on the SSD, seeing as your 2TB hard drive is still your C/ drive If you want to keep windows on your hard drive and simply just use your ssd like a normal drive, right click the windows icon, click disk management, look for the one that has a black stripe, and right click it. Should give you an option like "Initialize disk".
  2. I've been looking into this for my own setup here, Both for the switches, routers, nas, and the PC's. At the rate these rolling blackouts are happening though, (2-3 times per/day for 2 and a half hours at a time [4 hours at a time in the cities]) it may even be more advantageous to invest in an Inverter/Solar package My test bench's PSU is a victim of this electrical-outrage too. The list of casualties gets longer.
  3. What would be the recommended chipset on a budget-AM4 socket board for gaming? You and @NunoLava1998 both mention the B450 boards. I've let my client know to test the card, and RMA the board if the card is good. MSI claims that it isnt their OEM boards with the retail BIOS's on them, but rather boards made and sold to order to specific big-name vendors. Could this mean that the vendor i bought it from (Or even their supplier), is selling these to-order boards with the retail firmware on? I do not trust this vendor as far as i can throw them (They're pretty big here, and i even bought my personal rig from them 5 years ago, But since then they've gotten scummy with their marketing and pricing tactics.)
  4. The inability to flash is because of a retail bios being installed from factory, which they simply out right refuse to even go anywhere near (https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=290677.0) I agree with you on MSI being trash. I run an ASUS board on both my personal rigs and haven't had issues.
  5. Hehe, He's a personal friend of mine too. I doubt that is his intentions, as he is aware I am in the rat-race too and cant afford to buy him new parts We installed a surge protector on the outlets that his electronics are connected to after the first surge fried the first board. They're only rated for so much of a surge though, and they happen constantly here because of rolling blackouts
  6. I'll have him test the GPU in a different mobo and plug HDMI into there to test, If still the same result I'll try and get out to him with my personal rig's 970 to test that. Guess there's another callout
  7. From what I could find, It was the cheapest option, and the only option he could afford
  8. We tried the same monitor that isnt being detected by the GPU on his laptop which worked fine, using the same HDMI cable
  9. Yesterday my client messaged me to tell me that the board suddenly lost internet connectivity, and HDMI signal to the monitor. Only picking up the DVI monitor. He went to device manager to find 6 devices showing as having driver issues. Now i have never heard of one GPU port dieing and taking down a bunch of mobo devices with it and then coming back to full functionality a few hours later, And that is how i came to the conclusion it was the CPU/Mobo combo.
  10. I've built a lot of PC's. This is my first Ryzen build. My client's old LGA1150 i5 build was killed by a power surge, He wanted something cheap as a replacement, and thus switched to AMD for his gaming. I built the system for him. It has an MSI A320M PRO-M2 V2 motherboard (Bios unflashable because MSI apparently does this really cheap "Retail BIOS flashing not permitted" thing... Would've solved all my problems by now). It has 8GB HyperX 3200MHz RAM, A Ryzen 3 2200G, And a Galax GTX 960 EXOC. I've installed the GPU drivers probably around 4 or 5 times now by this point [uninstalled them prior by using DDU] I've installed the chipset drivers several times too in trying to fix this. The GPU outputs to 2 monitors. 1 over DVI (to VGA adapter), and the other over HDMI. For the past week the HDMI just gave up. Its not the cable, as that works with any other device you plug into it. Its also not the GPU driver, because i've reinstalled that several times. Windows does not even detect the HDMI monitor when its plugged in. IGPU Multi-monitor is not an option on this board, so plugging it into the mobo wont help. I've worked on, serviced, and built a few hundred PC's (I was a tech in a local PC Shop back in the Windows 10 upgrade period), but never has a brand new PC given me as many problems as this build. If you can figure this out, You'll be God himself. [tl;dr] I'm at wits end, and angry at computers. F'ing Ryzen...
  11. If it still doesn't work with the CMOS Reset button, There's a CMOS Reset jumper too that you can try. Remember to unplug the PC before resetting the CMOS
  12. Your motherboard manual shows that it has diagnostics LED's. Does any of them light up at the bottom right of the board when powered on? If that 16gb of ram is multiple dimm's, Try disconnecting all of the sticks, and trying them 1 by 1 in ram socket 2 (2nd from the left) Try resetting your BIOS by clearing the CMOS (Unplug your computer, and use a screwdriver to connect these two pins on your motherboard for ~10 seconds before plugging back in and testing again)
  13. Does it POST? Do you have a different graphics card you can test with? Even if it is a really basic bus-powered one like this:
  14. Please read. My Antec Edge 750W 80+ gold psu is not grounding as it is supposed to (and has for the past 4 years). Let me set a few things out the way. We have rolling blackouts (pre-planned government-organised power outages) throughout the day which blows many electrical components (Trust me, I'm the technician that goes on callouts to diagnose them). All of my electrical outlets in the building is grounded, with a main earth leakage system. All sockets and extension leads that have computers plugged in, are surge protected. The power supply is powered off (psu switch) prior to the rolling blackouts. It is not static discharge. *What the problem is* The power supply is shocking anything connected to its metal body, and grounding none of the electricity circulating back to it. I found this out when I tried to connect a USB to the mobo of my test pc, and received a nasty continuous static-like charge (It is not static.) I tried a different outlet on a different breaker, using a different kettle cord. Same result. I took the psu out of the case without any components connected, and plugged it in. I start receiving the shock whenever I touch the fan grill as indicated in the photo below: It is not a static charge (Those will stop after discharging), But the shock does stop when I hold my other hand to the main body of the psu. If not, all components shock you, including the psu fan grill. Any components connected to it still works, But holds that shocking charge in any metal parts of it. What part of the psu has stopped working in order to keep charge like this? Is saying it isn't grounding the electricity accurate? What can I do in future to avoid this?
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