atavax

thanks, I was leaning towards the 12400F honestly. I am in the US. Money isn't super tight, it's just not a burning money type of thing. I don't want to be like oh yeah, you need to spend $400 on a CPU.

building a PC for a friend. wants to spend as little as possible, still would like to not have to upgrade anything but videocard for a long time. My brother is still using a i7 2600k for gaming. Like, the more i'm looking at CPUs it just seems like for gaming everything is so overkill. If we separate CPU hardware into tiers of budget, value, performance, and enthusiast, what are value CPUs for gaming? Can I justify i3ss and r3's? Also are there anything in the newest gens of motherboards that like he might regret not having in 5 years? Like my brother wants a new CPU/motherboard just so he can use m.2 SSDs...

I took advantage of the louqe liquidation and bought a louqe Ghost and large top hat for living room PC. It's going to be cooling an i7 8700k. First, can a 240mm aio fit? 2nd is there any air cooler that can provide decent cooling? I'd much prefer air just so I can set it up and not worry about it for 8 years. Performance doesn't have to be insane, mostly going to use for VR and a media center.

I see a lot of reivews with benchmarks, not helping me know what ram I should be pairing with it other than obviously ddr5.

i think you misworded what you were trying to say. are you saying the asrock is just as good as the msi for less? because i mentioned the msi...

i mean, let's be honest boys... SLI is effectively dead...

the one thing is my previous PC; my current media player was an arock; and I found it's software rather disappointing. So I'm a bit biased against them. If you could reocommend a good 550 board for troubleshooting from like Gigabyte or Asus; it would be appreciated.

the one i'm thinking about right now is the MSI MAG X570S TOMAHAWK MAX WIFI

I'll helping a friend build a PC. A long with gaming, he wants to use a program that significantly benefits from extra cores, so 5950x. He's not super technically adept, so I'm thinking of slapping an ak620 on it and keeping it at stock speeds; so no overclocking. 2 things in regards to motherboard choice I'm concerned about is if it's likely to update the bios and how feasible it is without a earlier gen AMD CPU. And also the cpu power connectors. If 1 8 pin is ok, 1 8 pin + 1 4 pin; or if I really should get a motherboard with 2 8 pins for it.

well, replacing the sata cable made the hdd detected again. So at least there's that. Time will tell if it solves the frequent updating noise problem.

I noticed one of my hard drives is no longer being detected. I just checked the cable connections and they're all good . So my current theory is either the hdd or one of the cables is broken and occasionally it works for a second; windows gives an audio notification of a new device detected; lags the PC.

thanks. One of the reasons I upgraded my PC when I did was disliking the idea of being forced to use TPM in win 11, so wanting a system that was still compatible with win 10.

I am running F4d. Do you know the easiest way to disable TPM?

i disabled focus assist and so far i haven't had it happen again so that might have been the issue. it's an x570s aorus master

i don't know what they're for. I just hear the sound and then my computer stutters for a second.

I built a new PC recently and I keep getting a notification sound. Not only is the sound annoying, but if I'm playing a game, it will usually freeze for a second or two, which can be quite frustating while playing a multiplayer game and in the thick of the action. How do I stop this?!

for file type, the one i'm trying to run says application for file type. There are 4 files in the folder. An name: autoexec type: windows batch file size 1 KB name Efiflash type application size 103KB name X57SAOMA.F4d type F4D File 32,768 KB (F4D) is the version of the bios name readme text document " Usage : efiflash [Input or Output File Name] [Command].. Switch options for Efiflash.exe: /C - Clear DMI data. (default: Keep DMI data) /S - Save Original BIOS Image to Disk /R - Reboot System after BIOS Update /DB- Update both main & backup BIOS " is the X57SAOMA.F4d the file that i would want to put on a flash drive?

I download the bios update from Gigabyte and extract it. Run the application, it says don't run, I put run anways and then it says this app can't run on your PC. I double check, it says X570S AORUS MASTER in dxdiag and that's the motherboard i downloaded a bios update for.. The only thing that doesn't exactly 100% match is the Gigabyte sites says X570S AORUS MASTER (rev 1.0) but that is the only version of the X570S AORUS MASTER on their site, which i know i have.

So I bought a new case, psu, and sata ssd and put everything into the new case. An old sata ssd is now sometimes detected but usually not. My old and current boot drive which is a small m.2 ssd is now extremely slow to boot sometimes like 5+ minutes and i tried running Userbenchmark to get "sequential bench incomplete" for my boot drive. I have 1 m.2 ssd that seems to be working as intended. And I have a hdd that seems to be working as intended. The new sata ssd is getting an error in the userbenchmark saying "Relative performance n/a - RAM cached drive detected" My CPU overclock was also removed and XMP on my ram disabled. Before I ran the benchmark I just thought maybe a bad sata cable was making one ssd not work right and that was interferring with my boot sequence and making it take really long. new PSU is a Seasonic Prime 1300W. I have a 8700k with 2x16gb of 3200mhz ram. Asrock z390 phantom gaming itx/ac motherboard. 5700XT videocard. The sata ssd that usually isn't being detected is a Mushkin MKNSSDRE1TB; the boot drive that is booting super slow most of the time is a Samsung 960 Evo 250 GB. The brand new sata ssd is a Samsung 870 4TB with the RAM cashed drive detected error in benchmarks. The HDD appearing to work fine is a HGST Deskstar 7200RPM 8TB; and the sata ssd seeming to be working fine is a Intel 660p 2 TB

I think one of my SSDs is dying. It stopped being read by my PC a couple days ago and then just started being read again today without messing with my PC physically at all. I have a new larger SSD that I could transfer everything to. I just don't know the best way to do it. Especially because of things like game paths.

I'm starting to budget for a new PC later this year. I'll probably buy a new CPU motherboard and ram as soon as the next gen comes out. There is certainly an argument for future proofing and that what convinced me to get 32gb with my current system which is about 5 years old at this point. And I guess the problem with having 32gb of ram is you don't know when 16gb of ram would have been problematic if you had not decided to get 32gb of ram. Has 32gb of ram been beneficial lately? Or is 16gb still enough for most end users?

Has been any talk from knowledgeable people about like, If Nvidia is losing any significant performance pushing these two features?

Are there any good resources to find the height of memory modules, as I'm not seeing it on their spec sheet. And want to get a nh-d15; but i'm afraid I'm going to order ram that is too tall

I've been slightly burned by Newegg's business practices in the past, and with the current bad press, I'd prefer to stop using it altogether. The main problem is even if I don't buy from them; their search engine is just the only decent one I've found. Looking for a ddr5 atx with 2 LAN ports and 5 m.2's? here's whats available. Trying to find the right monitor at a certain size with a certain refresh rate? Well, use newegg...

I installed POP OS and then steam. I plug in a hardware filter for VR compatible games and only 5 of my many VR games show up. And only one, Alyx is installable. 1. Installing steam on Linux is all that's needed to have proton working, right? 2. If most my VR library isn't showing up because it isn't compatible with Linux; why are there 4 showing up that aren't compatible with Linux?