pawan1993
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Everything posted by pawan1993
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You can get Corsair or Ducky and just get the Ducky wrist rest along with it. Ducky is awesome.
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It's quite a bit more expensive in Australia though. It's about $350 AUD whereas the DT990 is about $250 AUD. Another option I could consider is the Sennheiser HD598 which is about $200 and has open back.
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They're that good? Well I'm seriously considering the DT990's now hahaha. For a little bit more I get that open back experience. Never really used open back and judging from the leak test by HiFi Heaven I thought it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I'd love to hear an opinion on whether the DT990's would be worth the extra $50 AUD or maybe any other suggestions too! Thanks for all the help though
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My issue is that those are much too expensive for me. I guess I don't need too much out of the bass as long as it isn't rubbish and overpowering the mids. I don't want to go the open-back route as I'd rather keep my audio from not being heard by others.
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Hey guys! I'm looking for new headphones and was going to grab the M50x because of price:performance. The DT770's are now on massdrop though and while they would have been $250 excl. delivery in Australia, I can get them from massdrop for about $190 delivered. So my question is which one should I get now? I'll be listening to a bit of music, watching movies and gaming. The music I listen to is mostly rock (Thrice, The Gaslight Anthem, Brand New). I'll post a few links of my music down below. I'm also intending to use a ModMic (also from massdrop) and if I get the 250-ohm DT770 over the 32-ohm version then I'll probably get the Fiio E10. Personally I like a bit of balance in what I listen to. I'd love the bass to be tight but not overpowering the mids. At the moment I'm leaning towards the DT770 250-ohm version.
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It's important to make sure you have a good balance between latency/RAM timings and clock speed. Generally, the higher clock speed RAM sticks have worse timings than the lower speed ones. Linus did a test on clock speed vs RAM timings on a performance basis and the sweet spot was the 1866 MHz with a CAS latency of 9. With the 1866 MHz RAM sticks you're getting more RAM too so it's really a no-brainer in this case.
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http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail_print/Cooling/case-fan/hyper-212-evo.html Yes it does. Grab the 212 Evo from MSY. Call them up before you go in though since they've never had 212 Evo in stock when I've checked. Got mine from PCDIY instead!
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I recommended the Kraken since it wasn't too much more expensive than the H100i over where I live and tech here is quite overpriced. But if it's quite a bit more expensive then it isn't a necessity. Edit: Also about the Phanteks case that the above poster suggested. If you're going for a quiet build then the H440 is better than the Enthoo Pro since it has noise dampening and it just looks so much better!
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Keyboard depends on your personal preference. If you want something clean without overly flashy looks go for Filco, Leopold, Ducky or Das. I have a Das and I highly recommend it. It is one beautiful piece of hardware. For flashy looks you could look at the Corsair K70, the CM Storm brand or again Ducky. Mouse: Logitech G502. If you want something that's a little simpler you could get the SteelSeries Sensei but it has a laser sensor so it has hardware acceleration. SteelSeries Rival and the Razer Deathadder are other possible choices. Mouse pad: Don't worry about this. Grab a SteelSeries Qck (get a size that you're comfortable with) and don't look back.
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You're going to be doing video editing and a bit of light gaming on 4K so you will definitely need to improve your GPU. A 970 is great but it just won't cut it at 4K. You'd probably want a 980 or two 970's in SLI right now rather than later. Also go for reference 970/980 cards as you're watercooling them anyway. For your PSU try the Seasonic X-750 especially since the fan won't turn on at light loads. As for your CPU cooler, the Kraken x61 performs slightly better than the H110, has LED lighting and has better stock fans (in case you decide against the Noctua fans). CAM software is a good bonus as well. Finally your case is a very good choice for silence and it has amazing looks.
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I agree. The stand gives all the flexibility you need and VESA mounting is the cherry on top. Dell make fantastic displays so in that aspect you can't be disappointed. They've used LG panels in the past so I wouldn't be surprised if they use theirs.
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Get the Logitech m905/Anywhere Mouse. It's small but not so small that it's unusable and it's got amazing tracking (which will be useful if you use it at school on different desks). Costs about $40 USD on Amazon.
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Is this a nice computer for $1475AUD?
pawan1993 replied to The Magical Turkey's topic in New Builds and Planning
I agree with Silver Knight in that you don't need the i5 4590. As for the rest of the build it looks good. Don't think you need a better PSU. Maybe try pushing for the G-650 instead if possible? The Seasonic G-series are awesome and very quiet as well. For the case you can grab the Enthoo Pro for only ten bucks more (on PCCG) and you really get a much better case for it. As for the GPU, the MSI TwinFrozr cooler is quite good. I have one on my GTX 760 and it stays cool with very good overclocking potential. The TF V is even better at being quiet as well! A small tip btw. Try staticice.com.au for your PC part prices. Look for the more reliable shops, not places like TopBuy or GreenBox but places like PCCG, MSY, PCDIY etc. Make sure you call in to the specific shop you're picking up from as well as places like PCDIY and MSY are frequently out of stock for common items (took me forever to find the CM Hyper 212 EVO). A final tip. If PCCG isn't too much more expensive try going for them. Their customer service is MUCH faster (and overall just better) than MSY, especially if you live around the Melbourne area. Hope that helps! -
I've used a Deathadder, SS Rival and the Logitech G502. The G502 is definitely the best mouse out of the 3 I've used. I know it's not on your list but I highly recommend taking a look at it. I personally use the RIval because of it's lower price and the RGB lighting to suit my rig better. The Rival really is an amazing mouse for the price. The switches feel extremely solid which is what you'd expect from SteelSeries and the sensor is great. The Deathadder is a very good mouse but over time the wear and tear will really affect it. The switches aren't as solid as other good quality mice.
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You have to admit though, the curve would be beautiful with this screen.
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Ahh standoffs. You never want to give the board the chance to short out. Try it outside the case on the original motherboard box and then if it's still not working RMA it.
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That EDGE 750 PSU! A Seasonic G-Series PSU with a quieter fan? That's a winning combination.
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It's a tad on the pricey side for being a 24" 1920x1200 display but the Dell U2413 is an amazing monitor. Brilliant colour reproduction and has good connectivity & mounting options (VESA support as well). The extra pixels over 1080p are a god send too. I've used 1080p monitors before and the extra work space is great on the U2413.
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Switch off the PSU before you short circuit the two pins mate. But yeah I reckon it's the motherboard. Do you have a speaker connected to the motherboard internally for the boot status?
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Put a curve on this and we have a winner.
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If you need one right now then the SteelSeries Kinzu is decent for the price Otherwise as Swndlr said, that extra 20 bucks will get you much better mice. At about $50 you could get the 2013 Razer Deathadder. I personally use the SteelSeries Rival which is amazing with its build quality, ergonomics and basic features. I've heard of a few problems with the build quality of the Deathadder so the Rival could be an option for you at the same price.
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Let's hope it's not the motherboard. Is your PSU supplying power? Check by shorting out the black and green wires on the 24 pin connector. If you see the fan on the PSU turn on or maybe if its connected to a hard drive and you hear the hard drive spinning then it should be fine. Then try unplugging everything from your motherboard except for the CPU and its fan. Short out the power pins on the motherboard with a screwdriver and see what happens. If it still turns on only for a second then try clearing the CMOS by shorting the pins relevant to clearing the CMOS. First try to get your PC to power on then try connecting to a display. If still nothing then unfortunately it probably is your motherboard. I had a similar to problem where the fans would spin for a split second and then turn off (as well as the power LED on the case). It turned out to be the motherboard. If you want to you could also try your components on a different motherboard if possible. This is to check if any other components could be the defect but I think it is the motherboard.
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I've tested the PSU and no faults with that. The cables are also connected properly and are secure. I was hoping it to be a PSU fault or cabling fault. It's looking more and more like it's a motherboard problem. CPU has an LGA1155 socket so I'll have to get a new CPU too.
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Hmmm. I'll test the PSU out tomorrow and then go from there. Has anyone ever had rotten enough luck to have a replacement PSU end up being bad?
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It's late at night right now where I am so I'll have a go tomorrow and let you know the results. I doubt it's the PSU since my older PSU which was working fine (besides the noise) ended up having the same problem before I sent it off. Thanks for the help though!
