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gh0st47

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  1. Like
    gh0st47 reacted to Bombastinator in Weird SSD / Storage Drive bug or issue...   
    Having trouble following.  I can tell if this is a warm boot/cold boot issue or not.  If it is it may be just a setting.  If it isn’t I don’t know what is going on.
  2. Like
    gh0st47 reacted to WhitetailAni in Should I turn off MCE ??   
    Absolutely no idea. I have a Strix B350-F and a Ryzen 5 3600, and all I've done for tweaking is a RAM overclock to 3333 from 3200. @ShrimpBrime may know though.
  3. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to ProjectBox153 in Good PCIE 3.0 M.2 and SATA SSD just for storing games ?   
    Personally I love the MX500. If it's anything like the old M500 from years ago then they'll do great as they age. My system is currently running from a 960GB Crucial M500 that was pulled from a recycling pile years ago. It's still working great to this day with 72TB written and counting. For just storing games I don't think you really need to worry. 
  4. Like
    gh0st47 reacted to DoctorNick in Will you pay more for Arctic Liquid Freezer II ?   
    NT-H2 should be great too. Have only tried NT-H1 and its great. Then you're set, go get it!
  5. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to WoodenMarker in Are these fans any good for Rad ? NB-eLoop   
    Yes, they're excellent fans if you're aiming for low noise. Keep in mind that they're designed to be used in push.
    They don't draw that much power and daisy-chaining them should be fine.
     
    Why are you planning to replace the stock fans?
  6. Like
    gh0st47 got a reaction from Mateyyy in 32GB 3200CL16 or 3600CL18 for RyZen 5000 ?   
    Welp...YOLO...I guess I will just get another same 16GB Kit (2X8GB) as my current one and hope for the best. 
    Well I did get the first kit at a really good price...I think I only paid like 60$ USD for it. Sadly I can no longer find such low price anymore lol. 
    Now a 16GB 3200mhz CL16 Corsair Vengeance LPX will cost me around 80$ USD....it's not that expensive but I guess still cheaper than buying another new 32GB Kit. 
     
  7. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to Mateyyy in 32GB 3200CL16 or 3600CL18 for RyZen 5000 ?   
    I think you're misusing the word "stable". Your (in this case) memory can either be stable or unstable, that's it. The stability is determined by various factors, like memory voltage, memory timings, memory frequency, the CPU, and the motherboard.
     
    Basically, more memory sticks and/or ranks will be harder on the IMC (memory controller), meaning that the more sticks and/or ranks of memory you have, the lower the frequency cap will be. For example, if the highest frequency you can get on 2x8GB is 5000MHz, then for 2x16GB or 4x8GB you'll be looking at something lower like 4600-4866MHz, though again, there are several factors that come into play here.
     
    That being said, the loss in frequency isn't necessarily a bad thing, because, say going from 2x8GB to 2x16GB (though not always) or 4x8GB, you gain the benefit of memory interleaving because of running dual-rank memory, which more than makes up for the slight frequency deficit.
     
    This ties into what I last talked about. It's not about two or four sticks - it's about ranks.
     
    Many 16GB memory sticks are dual-rank (visually you can tell that since the memory ICs will be double-sided, that is to say that there are ICs present on both sides of the memory stick). 
    Pretty much all 8GB DDR4 memory sticks are single-rank. But, if you've got two single-rank sticks in a memory channel, you're getting the same benefit of memory interleaving as you'd get with a dual-rank stick.
    Therefore, a 2x16GB configuration should perform about the same as a 4x8GB configuration, since they're both dual-rank (two ranks per channel).
     
     
    This is probably... pretty confusing, and I maybe could've done a better job at explaining it in a simpler way but, oh well.
    Buildzoid has got several, very informative videos on this topic. If you're interested, here's a couple I'd recommend checking out:
     
  8. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to boggy77 in 32GB 3200CL16 or 3600CL18 for RyZen 5000 ?   
    the difference between 3200c16 and 3600c18 is insignificant.
  9. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to Mateyyy in 32GB 3200CL16 or 3600CL18 for RyZen 5000 ?   
    I assume you mean 3600 CL18. 
    3600 CL18 and 3200 CL16 result in the same access latency. The only thing the 3600 CL18 kit would have going for it is that you'd be running the FCLK on your CPU at a slightly higher speed, but the difference would be insignificant at best. 
     
    Just get another 2x8GB 3200 CL16 kit to go with the one you're currently using. It'd be the most logical way to go about it in this case, if you ask me.
  10. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to boggy77 in 32GB 3200CL16 or 3600CL18 for RyZen 5000 ?   
    if you already have 2x8 3200C16, just get another 2x8 3200C16 set if you really need 32gb. that would be the cheapest and most logical way to upgrade
  11. Agree
    gh0st47 reacted to mariushm in How much Free Space I must have on my SSD ?   
    If you put games on the SSD, then it won't matter. Games don't write to storage, except maybe updating a configuration file or some saved game (if it's not stored in the cloud).
     
    Reading game files when loading game levels is not affected by the SSD being full. Mostly writing files, speed of writing to a SSD is affected by a SSD getting full.
     
    No, benchmarks won't tell you anything useful, you're just gonna pointlessly write data to the SSD.
     
    A SMR drive will have slow write speeds, and slow write speeds when overwriting big files. This is because with  SMR, the drive has to read the data in the tracks before the track where you want to write data, and write them back along with the modified data - so every rewrite is actually a read + write, so slower.
     
     
     
  12. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to mariushm in How much Free Space I must have on my SSD ?   
    Computers like to use powers of two, because they deal with 1s and 0s 
    So, to make math faster and simpler decades ago, programmers made an optimization and used 1024 instead of 1000, because 1024 is 210 so diving by 1024 was way way faster than dividing by 1000 to show kilobytes, megabytes, to calculate free disk space and so on. 
     
    So:
    1 KiB = 1024 bytes
    1 MiB = 1024 KiB = 1024 x 1024 bytes = 220 = 1,048,576 Bytes
    1 GiB = 1024 MiB = 1024 x 1024 KiB = 1024 x 1024 x 1024 = 230 = 1,073,741,824 Bytes 
     
    .. and so on..
     
    Hard drive manufacturers use 1000 to multiply units, they use KB, MB, GB ..
     
    So 1 GB = 1000 x 1000 x 1000 = 1,000,000,000 bytes. 
     
    Now, if you take this number and try to format it using multiples of 1024, you get  1,000,000,000 / 1024 = 976,562.5  KiB  which is 976,562.5 / 1024 = 953.67 MiB 
     
    You can repeat with 1000 GB , and you'll end up to around 931 GiB, the number seen in properties. 
     
    As for how much free disks space... 
     
    Try to keep around 5-10% of the whole amount as free space.  It will extend the life of the SSD. Too little space will cause some of the memory chips inside the SSD to wear out faster. 
     
    Basically, on a SSD data is not written like on mechanical drives. A mechanical drive can go on any track and position the heads above a chunk of data and erase it. A SSD has some restrictions, it can not do that. 
     
    A SSD is arranged in "pages" which contain chunks of data, usually a page is 512 KB and has lots of chunks of 4 KB. 
    The SSD can write a chunk of data, but it can't overwrite a chunk of data, it has to "erase" the whole page to make those chunks of data inside the page writable again. The problem is that by design, the Flash memory chips hate this erase thing, they can only do it a limited number of times... for SLC it was around 10k erases, for MLC it was around 4000-6000, for TLC it got down to 2000-4000 erases, and QLC is under 1000. 
    The SSD controller tries as hard as possible to delay erasing pages by searching for empty chunks of data in other pages to write whatever is changed into. 
     
    So, the SSD simply writes the chunk of data in another page with available chunks of data, makes a note about the new location and makes a note in its memory, marking that old chunk as "this is no longer needed, it doesn't have to copied over when page needs to be erased" 
    Every once in a while, when SSD is idle or it has absolutely no choice, the SSD picks a page with a lot of chunks of data marked as "has trash data, can be erased", copies the chunks with good data to other pages, then erases the whole 512 KB page. 
    So for example, you could have a 512 KB page with 400 KB of chunks with good data, and 112 KB of chunks that have old data, trash, chunks marked for erase.  The controller has to find chunks of data in other pages to copy those 400 KB and then it can erase the whole 512 KB and make it available again for writing... the SSD gains 512 KB in which it can write data, but that page's erase counter went up by 1, bringing it closer to its death (when too many erases, it becomes read only)
     
    So if the drive is too full, the SSD controller will have a very hard time finding empty chunks of data in which to copy over chunks, to erase pages. This means the same pages will be picked to write data into, which means those pages will be erased more often, which means those pages will die faster.
     
    Of course, the SSD when idle will also shuffle data around to reduce the erase cycles of some pages. For example, let's say you copied a movie on the SSD a month ago. The data of that movie won't stay in the same chunks and pages for that whole month, in the background the SSD controller may move portions of the movie around in various pages and chunks, so that files which are updated often will be placed on pages with fewer erase cycles. 
     
    So around 10% is enough... the SSD already hides a bit of space from you... for example that 480 GB SSD will actually have around 512 GB of actual flash memory, but a portion is hidden and gradually used to replace pages that are too worn out (too many erases), extending the life of the SSD. 
    Other portions are used in SLC mode for higher speed and more endurance, and the SSD can also use some of the free amount in SLC mode (for example it can take 10 GB of free space, and use it as ~ 4-6 GB of fast SLC memory, like a write buffer) 
  13. Agree
    gh0st47 got a reaction from Tan3l6 in What 1TB ssd would you recommend   
    Just bought myself a Crucial MX500. It comes with 5 Years Warranty too...
    The price ain't bad, it's about 120$ in my country, but I think you can get it cheaper in the US / EU. 
    In a Nutshell, it's a really well received quality SSD, but it doesn't cost a fortune like the Samsung EVO. 
    Can't exactly comment on the quality / lifespan of it, but Googling it. It have a better lifespan than many other cheaper ones. 
    So IMO this is one the best value SSD...if NVME for PC, then the ADATA SX8200 ain't bad either. Write Speed is bit on the low, but for Gaming that's irrelevant.

    EDIT : Mistaken, the Crucial MX 500 is 120$ here. But the 860 EVO is about 150$ , slightly more. 
  14. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to xg32 in First time using NVIDIA card, I have questions.   
    1. i'm using it for the sharpness and color filter in some games, not using AA anymore unless i have to, freeing up performance. 
    2. there are some others, but most ppl use afterburner and x1 for the RTX series
    3. i keep mine at 79C, 84 is fine but i personally wouldn't use it that high.
    4. probably 3 fans hooked up to 2 controllers/sensors.
    5. power limit is the easiest way RTX cards overclocks/underclocks, some cards show wattage used, strix should be able to, maybe try the asus program.
    6. gddr6
  15. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to xAcid9 in First time using NVIDIA card, I have questions.   
    If you want to maximize performance per watt, you can use MSI Afterburner Frequency Curve to further tweak the card. You might get lower temp and power usage with minimal performance drop depending on your chip quality. You can open Frequency Curve by pressing CTRL+F. 
  16. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to 5x5 in First time using NVIDIA card, I have questions.   
    Ignore GeForce Experience - it's bloatware that tends to cause problems.
    Nvidia don't provide any overclocking utilities. Use MSI AB
    Temp target is 84 - leave it as is. More than that is ill advised
    The fan monitoring varies by card OEM.
    No idea what the Power reading would relate to. Probably the GPU's power target or current power state
    Your memory is running at 2250, 9000 effective since that's how GDDR6 works
  17. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to Skiiwee29 in First time using NVIDIA card, I have questions.   
    A) no need to tweak anything in the Nvidia control panel unless you need to enable g-sync.
     
    1. While not 100% necessary for Geforce Experience, it does make it convenient for updating drivers since it alerts you when new drivers are available. 
     
    2. Nvidia themselves does not have any type of tweaking or overclocking software so you have to rely on 3rd party ones like Afterburner etc..
     
    3. Increase temp target and power limit. This will help your clocks stay higher longer as temps ramp up while under load.
     
    4. Asus I believe uses what is called A-sync fans, meaning they will spin up independently when say the VRM are under load compared to say VRAM etc.. You can only control this I believe with the manufactures software, so in this case Asus's software will allow you to control that, but MSI Afterburner wont. 
     
    5. There is a graph specifically for Power Limit. This will never show anything unless the power limit is reached. The power limit is read as 0 for good, or 1 meaning it reached power limits.
     
    6. Welcome to GDDR6!!!
  18. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to xAcid9 in First time using NVIDIA card, I have questions.   
    1) Install GE if you need stuff like Shadowplay and Ansel otherwise don't bother with that bloatware.
    2) Yeah, NVCP is lacking many stuffs unlike Radeon Settings but fanboys said it works so it just works. 
    3) Keep it.
    4) Not sure about this one, my 980 Ti got 3 fans but it only show 1 fan in MSI AB. I know some cards like the old MSI Lightning or Sapphire Vapor-X the middle or smaller fan got it's own controller.
    5) "Power" show how much power your card is consuming in percentage relative to BIOS power limit. If you want to check the exact wattage it currently using you need to use HWiNFO alongside MSI AB.
    6) Afterburner show "effective memory clock" for Nvidia cards. For GDDR6/GDDR5X like 2080 you need to multiply the base clock speed with 8 while GDDR5 you need to multiply it by 4. A GDDR5 RX 580 with 2000mhz memory clock is effectively run at 8000mhz. HBM clock speed is slower but it got HUGE memory bus width. 256bit in 2080 vs 4096bit in Radeon VII. 
  19. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to geo3 in Gateron vs Cherry MX   
    I've been using Zeal switches for a several years and they are holding up well. I cant say about the cheep Gaterons though. I wouldn't be concerned about longevity at all as cheep as switches are it really don't matter.
    You can get 110 (enough for a full keyboard) Cherry switches for around $35. But it $24 for the cheaper Gaterons. The highend Gaterons would be around $110.
  20. Informative
    gh0st47 reacted to Blze001 in Gateron vs Cherry MX   
    I have a Gateron Red keeb that I've used off and on for about a year and a half. Feels about the same as my friend's MX Red and I haven't noticed any degradation or durability issues yet.
  21. Like
    gh0st47 got a reaction from K i a r a in Any suggestions on Old(er) games to play? On Steam.   
    Have you play Max Payne series yet ?? Get it if you haven't. 
    Alan Wake too. 
  22. Like
    gh0st47 got a reaction from LogicalDrm in Games to run on a 5400 RPM hard drive?   
    Not everyone is from the US / EU , which you can enjoy cheap low PC hardware prices....come to Asia...you will cry...even in Aussie most of PC hardwares are overpriced as fuck. 
  23. Like
    gh0st47 got a reaction from LogicalDrm in Games to run on a 5400 RPM hard drive?   
    Cheapest I can find in my country ( I'm not even sure if this is Discounted ), 180 Euro...Samsung Evo 860 1TB 
    Yes, SSD has been LOT cheaper. same goes for NVME ones. But in many countries it's still not cheap enough to become replacement for HDD...
    I can ge at 3 - 4TB W.D Black for one 1TB SSD here...
  24. Like
    gh0st47 got a reaction from LogicalDrm in Games to run on a 5400 RPM hard drive?   
    Well yeah, I guess it's good to buy a 500GB just to throw in some games in it. 
    STEAM can move game files really easily...I guess we could, get high capacity HDD and a 500GB SSD. Then install the games you're currently playing often, when you're done, move them to your mechanical HDD.. 

    But Segate's Firecuda SSHD are quite cheap, I wonder if they are any good. They are almost same price as W.D Blacks. But it's faster, least on paper. But in the past Seagate's quality is rather concerning, they have the highest failure rate. 
  25. Agree
    gh0st47 reacted to Paul Rudd in Should I lock my FPS at 75?   
    Cap your fps with MSI Afterburner, don't lock it in some other way. Cap it at the highest fps you can achieve(in your case 105, depending on the game). Keep FreeSync ON and v-sync OFF. FreeSync is nowhere near as useful as just capping your fps with MSI Afterburner and keeping FreeSync ON with v-sync OFF is the way to go. Having FreeSync ON will help out with slightly higher frame rates, just make sure v-sync is almost always OFF. Use v-sync for games that for some reason give you screen tearing and those are the games you can "lock your fps" with. Very few games require this though. To this day, Shadow of Mordor is one of the very few games that introduces screen tearing for me.
     
    The fluctuating of your fps from 75-105 is a much better experience than locking it at 75, this I assure you. The trick is mastering your graphic settings. This will maximize your fps to around 90-105 instead of 75-105, depending on the game of course. Also, how much RAM you have and the speed of your RAM matters as well as your GPU/CPU.
     
    So from playing game to game, you need to figure out the best custom graphic settings possible. You do NOT need to go Ultra on all of them. You need to figure out which settings cause the most fps gain/loss and what each of those settings do to your game visually. This will vary dramatically from game to game but once you master the settings, I assure you your fps will be much higher and much more stable and you will have a near-ultra like experience visually. Like I said, you gotta spend time mastering the settings though. From game... to game.
     
    This is from my experience gaming with a 6th gen i5/1070 combo for the last few years. I now game in 1440p and achieve around 90-105 fps on average in just about every high-demanding game I play. If it's not so demanding, I get much higher fps around 115-130. And if it's even less demanding, I can achieve a locked 144 fps.
     
    It's all in mastering the graphic settings and using MSI Afterburner to cap your fps at the max you can achieve.
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