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XGwolf36

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  • Posts

    57
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne
  • Biography
    Engineering Student

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i3 4170
  • Motherboard
    MSI H97-G43M
  • RAM
    8GB DDR3 1600MHz Kingston Hyper X Genesis
  • GPU
    Asus Radeon R9270X
  • Case
    Bitfenix Neos Window
  • Storage
    Corsair 60GB SSD
  • PSU
    Silverstone 500W 80+ Bronze
  • Display(s)
    Benq GW2760HS
  • Cooling
    Stock CPU Cooler
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014
  • Mouse
    Logitech B100
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64bit
  1. I have an Old gaming PC, and a new gaming PC (Specs below). In my old pc, I have windows on a small SSD, and my games on a HDD. In my new system, I have just one large SSD. I physically moved the HDD from the old PC to the new PC, and transferred some steam game files to large SSD drive. The HDD has been installed in the new PC for a couple of months. I have played games from the large SSD and also had updates. As far as I know, my new PC hasn't actually done anything on the HDD except for "Copy". Today, I moved the HDD back to the old PC, because I want to uninstall everything. When I boot up, the screen is black and it says "A2" in the bottom right corner of the screen, which relates to an issue with a storage drive. I unplugged the HDD, booted the old PC up and it worked fine, straight into windows. Plugged the HDD back in and again the A2 error. The HDD is preventing 'posting' in the old pc. What in the actual fruit cake is going on? Pls help My intention is to delete things so If I end up wiping the drive that's not so bad. Old PC: OS: Windows 10 Pro CPU: Intel core i3 4170 Mobo: MSI H97M-G43 M-ATX Motherboard RAM: 8GB DDR3 1600MHz Kingston Hyper X Genesis GPU: Asus Radeon R9 270x 2GB Boot Drive: Corsair 60GB SSD SATA 2.5 inch Extra Drive: Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD Sata 3.5 inch Power: Silverstone Strider Essential 500W 80+ Bronze (SST-ST50F-ESB) New PC: OS: Windows 11 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor Mobo: MSI B550 PRO-VDH Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory GPU: Gigabyte EAGLE Radeon RX 6600 8 GB Video Card Boot Drive: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Extra Drive: None Power: Silverstone Decathlon DA650 Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
  2. Thanks so much for your help guys. I will do some research into AM4 and AM5. I will say that by 'future proofing' I meant that the system will have a fixed configuration for as long as possible, and should be able to handle future game releases. Lowering game settings is fine for me. I am not keen on upgrading CPUs and GPUs.
  3. Budget (including currency): AUD$2100 Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Doom Eternal, Kerbal Space Program 2, Halo Infinite, Valorant, Maybe Solidworks Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Firstly I admit that I am dumb and I won't dispute any such diagnoses. 1. Budget and Location Location: Melbourne Australia. Intending to get a custom system built by Scorptec Computers Clayton Budget: $2100 AUD, flexible 2. Aim -Gaming - Doom Eternal, Kerbal Space Program 2, Halo Infinite, Valorant -no competitive gaming -I want the system to be relatively 'future proof', able to play future game releases for as long as possible -Ray Tracing is not important to me, but my mind can be changed -I want a 2TB SSD, M.2 NVMe, V-NAND, to be used for OS and games -Risk aversion - low chance of troubleshooting I have a secondary aim, which I might scrap if it's not practical. I am a professional CAD user (Solidworks/Inventor). I had the idea that I would build this gaming PC with a spare PCIe port, and later I might decide to buy a NVidia T1000 graphics card and would install in next to my gaming GPU. Then if I switch from gaming to CAD, I will switch the input source on my monitor (to a secondary display cable) and would start using the CAD graphics card. This could be for freelance CAD but not full time paid work. I have no idea if this is rational - please talk to me about this 3. Monitors I will buy a new monitor with this system. I want 1920x1080, either G-Sync or FreeSync, VA or IPS but not TN, 27 inch size 4. Peripherals Basic keyboard and mouse. I intend to transfer my Windows from my old PC to my new PC. Let me know if this is difficult or risky? 5. Why Upgrading? Old gaming PC is too old. Built in 2015. I built it myself then, but would rather get a pro for new build. Intel core i3 4170 8GB DDR3 RAM Radeon R9 270x 2GB 60GB SSD SATA 2.5 inch (OS) 1TB HDD Sata 3.5 inch (Games) Discussion: I have searched around and found a preliminary build spec: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mWJrNc -AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor -MSI B550-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard -Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory -Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive -Gigabyte EAGLE Radeon RX 6600 8 GB Video Card -Corsair Carbide Series 175R RGB ATX Mid Tower Case -Silverstone DA650 Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply -Samsung Odyssey G32A 27.0" 1920 x 1080 165 Hz Monitor A. PCpartpicker tells me that a MOBO BIOS upgrade would be needed to support the CPU. Is that something that I could expect from a system builder like Scorptec? I really want to avoid doing that kind of stuff myself. (Time and effort and risk) and I don't have an extra CPU lying around B. My motherboard selection is based on accommodating the potential CAD GPU - I don't know if that will work. If I ditch that idea, what motherboard would you recommend? C. If I move my old storage drives from my old PC to my new PC, can I save time on re-installing games by 'transfering' them from one internal drive to another?
  4. So a Local Windows User Account, with no email address, is a new person?
  5. Hi, I want to get Microsoft Office. I can't decide between Office 365 Home or Office 365 Personal. I have a laptop with 2 windows user accounts: a 'Personal' account, for which I created a new email account, and a 'Proffesional' account which is a local account. I do this just to separate all my stuff. The cheaper Office 365 personal is only for "One Person" but what is one person? Are different user accounts considered different people?
  6. I open my laptop, at home, and I find, it's not connected to my router or extender, it is connected to 'Telstra Air' or 'Fon Wifi'. Telstra is a telecommunications company in Australia. Both of those SSIDs are a public Wifi service. Here's a simplistic language description: -I have never ever told my laptop to connect to those SSIDs -I don't want to be connected to those SSIDs (not sure how paranoid I should be about security) -My laptop (apparently only while closed) spontaneously connects to those SSIDs (not sure - maybe I'm misunderstanding) -I want to tell my laptop to never even go near those SSIDs -How on earth do I instruct my idiot computer to do that?
  7. My old LG Optimus G is just about done for after 3 years of service. I need a new phone with exactly these requirements: -Unlocked -Micro SIM -Android M -Screen size 5inch to 5.2 inch -3GB RAM or more -Relatively durable (I think I will use a case, but I definitely don't want a fragile phone ), water resistance favourable -Not terrible battery life -Some form of fast charging would be desirable -Decent call quality is very important Let me know of any phones that come close to meeting these criteria Thank you sir
  8. So I got The Force Awakens on iTunes on my laptop. --I know iTunes is bad --I wanted HD instead of SD, otherwise I would have bought an actual DVD --I don't know if the Google Play store lets me buy a movie and download it locally bla bla bla so I chose iTunes I tried to play it in HD, but it said this: "To play this movie in HD, you must have a PC with a built-in display or have it connected to a display that supports HDCP." It plays in Standard Definition just fine. My laptop is a Dell XPS13 9333 -Core i7 4650U with Intel HD5000 I am using a MiniDisplayport to HDMI adapter that is HDCP compliant. My TV is a Samsung Series 6 UA32F6400AM. *Supposedly all HDMI TVs support HDCP *The user manual for this TV does not mention HDCP anywhere *The settings of the TV do not mention HDCP It seems like something in the hardware chain is not supporting HDCP. WHAT THE HELL IS IT? IS IT THE DAMN TV? I checked all this stuff out BEFORE I bought the movie - I was sure the HDCP would be fine. pls help
  9. But if I bind those buttons to particular keys, its only relevant to one particular game
  10. why is it like that why is that a thing what is this ....... 2004?
  11. Recently got a Logitech Hyperion Fury G402 mouse. I won't use any DPI modification, I just want to use the extra buttons as bindable buttons. In the Logitech software, I set them to be multifunction butons. In games (Battlefront, Insurgency), I cannot get these buttons to actually register when doing keybindings. I have also tried 'unassigned' in the software - obviously no success Its probably something silly but really this is super annoying. What am I doing wrong? Why hath lord Gabe.N forsaken me?
  12. My laptop is a Dell XPS 13, with core i7 4650U, and Intel HD5000, WIndows 10 It has a minidisplayport, and I have a minidisplayport to VGA adapter. In the past, I have connected to a 19" Benq monitor with zero issues. I have connected to many monitors with zero issues. Just this year, 2016, often while showing an image on an external monitor, that image will just go black. The laptop won't notice, it will still be outputting 2 desktops, I usually have to pull out the minidisplayport plug (so I can get the window down to the laptop), or disable/re-enable the HD5000 graphics in device manager. This happens with a monitor at work, and a monitor at home (Benq GW2760s) that previously had no issues. It is surprisingly annoying when I am trying to work and every 15 minutes the screen just goes black. Yes, I have turned every thing on/off , unplugged/replugged, disabled/re-enabled graphics. Is there even a reason? Is it Windows 10 introducing yet another new problem?
  13. I installed a previous graphics driver (in safe mode) and the graphical problems have disappeared (Thanks BlueChinchillaEatingDorito) yay I might try memtest 86 anyway......
  14. With the graphics problem, I can fix it by disabling and then re-enabling the HD 5000 graphics. I have to do this practically every time I open the laptop from sleep. It is so annoying. I have the latest graphics driver installed. It won't let me rollback, but I might have an older driver stored somewhere. I might try installing that. I don't quite understand why I have to do it in safe mode - I don't understand what that will do...... I am not going to re-install Win10 - too much hassle.
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