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Carde

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Everything posted by Carde

  1. Honestly my X5 been through a lot without issues, just get a cheap mouse pouch and done. The only surfaces optical sensors don't like really is glass beside that modern day optical track on just about anything so that is not an issue. Also depending on the use I would rather lug around a mouse mat along with my mouse than go laser
  2. If you don't mind white I would also take a peak at the EVGA torq X5 (just the X5 not the L, you want that optical sensor) It is a great unit and often overlooked. Also look here for good mouse reviews: http://www.rocketjumpninja.com/
  3. Meh still a shortage in some places, but second hand market might be nice again. I really don't get the hate ex mining cards get have had several without issue and hear much the same from others. Most miners undervolt cards to reduce power consumption and they are in open air cases so kept quite cool. The only possible issue found is fans getting worn out, but even that is minor.
  4. I would never pre order it, might be interested in playing if it is fun and unlocked framerate.
  5. Get 2 strips of 8GB leave room to upgrade and means you can spend on fast ram in speed and timings cause with current gen CPUs ram speeds make a big difference in games, which kind of goes against the grain of what has been preached to my ears a lot during the DDR3 era, but it is true. As for Ryzen you can get to 2933Mhz atm on 4 sticks 32GB np with a beta build bios, it is what I have running atm.
  6. Got a feeling something aint quite right with my card, 1070 only getting 88.3 average with a 2126boost clock. (Card being under water peaks at 43C) Looking at the graph the scenes where it should sky rocket it is actually dropping in GPU useage almost as if it is using Vsync (which is off), like scene 6 when you fly through the sky I see it drop below 60% GPU useage.
  7. Well shiver me timbers, it is reading a 20C offset again....... This is now seriously starting to piss me off.
  8. Well problem solved, issue was in the cable, guess the insane angle it had to make caused a break, new cables in and all is fine.
  9. Well it has been a while and mainly because some parts ended up on a backorder and then the transport company decided to say fuck it all and delay the shipment by 5 days Sorry to say I did not make a bunch more pictures as I went because really the final assembly was rather easy, so take a look here and below I will talk through what I had to do and the silly mistakes I made Well there she is in all her glory doing something people said was not possible: Putting 2 360 rads in this case without any modifications! Now don't get me wrong it is not an easy fit and I had to loosen some screws to get the top one to slide in and force it all back to screw them back into place, now I think I could have avoided that by removing 2 more screws from the top rad which would allow it to slide just that tiny bit more towards the back. Either way it fits and I am a happy camper about that The pump was the next brain cracker as the backside of the case is not really suitable for mounting it due to all the holes and cut outs for the drive cadies that can be placed there. So I went with the idea to just mount it to the rad using a 120mm bracket, of course I had to pick the pump with a res that was to large so that would not fit either. But fitting it with just 2 screws instead of 4 to the bracket gave me just enough clearance to make it fit and really it is more than solid enough for moving it abouts in the house, but I would not advise it at all for transportation! I routed the tubing best I could wanting to keep the lengths as short as possible and I think I could have cut a 5mm of the tubes here and there, but I think that is a project for when I need to change the coolant out. I am really glad I went with soft tubing though as it was hard enough to get everything inside this case without having to worry about sollid tubing, that would have turned this from a day build to a week build no doubt. Overall I am really happy with how it turned out, keep in mind the picture is a tad bright, with the glass on things look really clean and you just get this lovely ice blue lighting shining through. Will have to see if I can turn off the lights at night and make a picture like that with the glass on. Of course I am still dealing with an SSD that is acting up and only thanks to the folks here I managed to find a bios that allows the system to remain quiet Cause these noctua fans are really quiet when running slowly, but they transform into a jet at full blast Also here is the full desk: Desk is an IKEA BEKANT 160cm with a standard frame which is just a great desk for not to much money (I work at an IKEA store doing product quality so me knows good and the bad from IKEA ) Going from left to right: Headset: Sennheiser G4ME one black Screen 1: BenQ Zowie XL2735 (Really got to adjust to the TN colours, they are so bad compared to IPS). Keyboard: Logitech G 710+ (Just a reliable piece of kit) Screen 2: Some ASUS 1080P60 IPS from my old rig. (Also thank you noctua for shipping your fans in strong boxes they make for an excellent monitor stand ) Mouse: EVGA Torq X5 (Quite a nice mouse, doesn't get nearly enough attention) Microphone: Some basic broadcaster type mic, just a ton better than the heatset one. Chair (Not seen): IKEA MARKUS (Still looking for an other chair, but finding one I like and that is high enough is tricky) Anyhow not a bad build considering this is the third PC I ever build. First was rig 1.0, second was a really basic cheap AMD system for my dad and now this one which really still needs a cool name . Also keeps really cool, it is idling 4-5C above ambient and when pushed hard hits about 25-30C above ambient. So that makes my little build complete and gives me a new rig to last me some years with only an GPU upgrade in future and perhaps an M.2 SSD when the budget allows. For now my money is gone this whole project ended up costing me around 3000 EUR with the PC, second screen and desk included and would have gone well north of that if I could not salvage some bits from the old setup. No regrets through it is my hobby and it may cost me some money
  10. Used custom profiles all the time. Anyhow found a beta bios with the 1006 code and that has done the trick, no more silly 20C offset and things are quiet even with 27C ambient temps Only downside my OC is a bit less now, but will have to tweak that see if I can get it back to 4. Thanks for the help all!
  11. I know it has the offset, I am not worried about the temps as a result just the noise Will see if they have a beta bios, believe I run the latest normal release. I know there are custom fan profiles I been using them, but seeing you select 75C there and they ramp up at 55C in use they are bloody well useless
  12. Not really a solution I want to get into, but heck if I have to I just might. Fans should be able to run as low as 700-800 RPM, but MB keeps them at 1100 and ramps them to 2000 when temps get higher. Did use the ASUS AI software that delayed so far when they spin up, but it ramped them to 1400 as a base line which is to much
  13. While being annoyed at my fans spinning up I thought I might aswell put down a little benchmark just with the CPU OC, still need to get that ram to run at 3000Mhz, but it is past 4am so next time Alas that is how high this chip wants to clock, guess no win in the silicon lottery for me this time (Goodbye old 3770K which managed 5.0Ghz)
  14. Hello all, I hope that some one here can help me out as this issue has been driving me nuts. I run a full custom loop in my system and it idles at around 31C with am ambient of 26C, so that is doing it's job and when I start pushing it the temps go to 65-70C which is all nice fine and dandy. What is not that between 55-60C the Fans go from their quiet to full ramp and well these are noctua Industrial 2000RPM fans so at full blast they make quite the noise. The problem is on the MB put it down that they will not ramp until the temp hits 75C because frankly unless I am running a benchmark it is not going to get close to that. So what I am missing or what else can I do to force the fans to stay quiet. The fans are all connected to the PWM fan hub in the Phanteks Enthoo evlov ATX TG which is connected to the CPU fan header on the MB as it should be. The pump D5 unit is always running at full speed as it is quiet anyhow. So yeah I really would love it if one of you lovely folks could help me out and keep this machine quiet
  15. Gives me the same as Samsung magician software: Good 100%
  16. I am having an issue with my Samsung 840 pro (512Gb) , like my 830 (256GB) it came over from my old intel rig to my new AMD ryzen rig. The 830 like the champion it always has been is perfectly fine with it all and soldiers on as my OS drive. The 840 pro has seen a bit more use (100TB written compared to 25TB for my 830), but is now giving trouble, it shows up in the bios and in in windows, even gave it a format and it is running the latest firmware. However it will not accept any instals or run anything. Stuff simply crashes and I get a popup to select what to do with removable media D: Games (name of the drive). I also flashed my MB bios with the latest from ASUS, but that has not fixed anything either. So is it just a drive that is giving out (Keeping in mind it had zero issues 12 hours ago in my intel system) or is there something else I am missing?
  17. Have not, still in the build process. Speaking of which new goodies came in just minutes ago: 5L of coolant (better to much than to little and 1L did not seem like it was going to cut it and than the 5L quickly starts to become more appealing in price. At least I can get a min of two fill ups for the system out of it so yay Also my love EK res+pump combo unit and the main part, 2 Lovely 360 radiators from hardware labs. The last where a bit of a concern regarding if they would fit, but I have taken a peak and unless I am terribly mistake they fit into the case without the need for any modifications!!!!! So that makes me a really happy camper and saves me from spending on a Dremmel kit I really like how these rads look, just great and understated just the way I like it. Anyhow with this in place I got to check out my locations for stuff and order the final things. Decided to mount the pump onto the rad using a bracked because that was the only clean way to do it. So tubing, fans, CPU block, fittings all ordered and decided to go for an MSI GTX 1070 Seahawk for now, at 499 EUR including the pre installed EK waterblock it is just a really good deal (a normal 1070 gaming comes in at 450 EUR). Depending on how good or bad Vega will be will decide if it stays or moves, I hope Vega will be nice want to go back to AMD cards they just have been giving me less trouble Also may I say that water cooling is expensive as all hell? The cooling for this system comes in at 665 EUR! Granted I did not cheap out (Well maybe the fittings, but I cannot believe that a 8 EUR fitting is that much worse than a 20 EUR fitting), but still that is more than I had in mind at first. Also note this is not including a GPU block because that comes with the card
  18. Rig 2.0 Ryzing to the top, (leg)lit RGB style and keeping cool under water. Rig 1.4 is well 5 years old on it's core components and I am sorry to say she is annoying the living hell out of me because she is based on rig 1.0 and well with that a certain lack of experience. So naturally we are going to build a new rig and do some serious water cooling which I don't have much experience which (really a pre assembled kit is where it ends). With Ryzen out there and me not willing to wait for VEGA to start this build, we are well starting it and leaving the GPU for later unless we can find a good deal on one somewhere throughout this build. So before we go into detail let's just look at the specs of rig 1.4 and rig 2.0: Rig 1.4: Case: Corsair Obsidian 800D (Currently in poor state) MB: ASUS Z77 Sabertooth CPU: Intel I7 3770K OC to 4.5Ghz CPU cooling: Alphacool kit with a 360 rad RAM: G.Skill ARES 1866Mhz CL10 GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Reference PSU: Corsair AX860W SSD 1: Samsung 830 256GB SSD 2: Samsung 840 pro 512GB HD: WD Green 1TB OS: Windows 10 PRO 64Bit Rig 2.0: Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG Black MB: Asus Crosshair VI Hero CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1800X CPU cooling: Phanteks Glacier C350a CPU block (if they become available in time) RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000Mhz CL15 32GB (4x8) (Brought 32 GB because 4 dims look better than 2:P) GPU: GTX 1070 MSI SEA hawk (pre installed EK waterblock, dending on VEGA it will stay or be switched out, sadly no RGB, but it was that or speed over a 100EUR more for RGB) PSU: Corsair AX860W (Good PSU, changed out once so this one is still under warranty) SSD 1: Samsung 830 256GB SSD 2: Samsung 840 pro 512GB Pump+Res: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM RADs: 2x The Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS (If I can make it fit :P) Coolant: Mayhems X1 Clear Tubing: EK-DuraClear 3/8 ID - 1/2 OD - 9,5/12,7mm 3M RETAIL Fittings: Alphacool HF Screw connector, lots of 90s needed and some 45 and really I gotta keep the price in check somewhat as a result hence going for Alphacool here (The other options where either not black or black and more than two times as expensive) Fans: Noctua NF-F12 industrial PPC-2000 PWM - 2000RPM (Can't go wrong with noctua fans) OS: Windows 10 pro 64bit The purpose of rig 2.0 (I am open to suggestions for better names) will be gaming, streaming, recording and some editing work. Now building new rigs is not a cheap thing and specially if you go full on custom water cooling and hence you will notice a bit of salvaging from RIG 1.4, what is not salvaged I will simply sell off with the exception of the HD. The real challenge is going to be the whole water cooling setup, as said I do not have much experience with it hence I am ordering things in bits to see what I can make work and what I can't I will simply return. Now I am not sure if I am going soft or hard tubing, the former seems a lot easier, but the later is likely going to end up looking better. GPU block wise ideally I hope that Phanteks also releases a block for the VEGA cards that way I have RGB ram, RGB CPU block and RGB GPU block. I specially do not want to add to much if any other lighting to the case, cause this way in the black interior these few components will become a real stand out. So that is the plan, now let's see how the execution will go. Now I do apologize the first pictures are a bit dark (phone in the wrong setting) last one I fixed that issue with, but only figured it out when I arrived at that stage. Picture time! There we have our first delivery arrived at the timely hour of 2130 today (for reference it is now 0040 the next day). Removed the ugly brown box from the Phanteks case (nice to have though additional protection is always good. That said stop using Styrofoam already it sucks). So yeah the hearth and casing of my new system has arrived, now for some more box shots: I been eying this case for quite some time, it is just a stunning looking case, much better than my 800D that is for sure Yeah I brought you 2 days before the cut the price, if the prices drop I likely contact the webstore to get a partial refund (Cause I have 14 days to return it without reason anyway), this stuff is expensive enough as is. Also I know the 1700X would be cheaper, but where is the fun in that? An other ASUS board and an other one people say is to expensive for what it offers. What can I say my sabertooth been amazing to me and I like this board so I got it You know originally I was going to buy some Corsair Vengeance memory, just 16GB no RGB, just like we would have no custom water cooling and all that. So here we are spending twice what I had planned on memory and lords knows how much more on the cooling. Many shiny new boxes and this time I get to keep them all, no parents anymore who force one to discard all these amazing boxes. So despite the late hour the build began mostly so that I could get some idea of my flexibility for the water cooling settup. So let's see how this stunning case was looking just an hour later: Not much left of it is there? I will say this case is a joy to work with, just being able to move it around without breaking my back (800D is heavy as all hell) is great and much of it is screwed in place. But yeah here we have the case with the MB and RAM inside, but the side, top and front panel removed as well as the radiator bracket and one of it's slides seeing it is rather space inefficient it might not return. All those lovely 140mm fans are resting on the side, guess I will sell those on as I have no need for them. Do love the small screw box from Phanteks, but a few items ended up in bags just so I know where they belong to. So that is where we will end episode one, my first build log and what is to be my first real custom water cooled PC. I hope to complete the build over the course of the next week. Any feedback you have is welcome (will try to shoot the pictures in daylight following this post hopefully they come out a bit better, sorry for that just limited to my OPO for that. As for the parts see above anything in green is still up for debate so I am open to suggestions regarding that as well (specially tubing/piping/fittings). Carde signing off.
  19. Mayhems it seems than for the cooling, clear with all the stuff added that needs to be in there and well at 30eur for 5l that aint to bad. (Bit much, but hey it is either 5l or 1l to order). Pump wise I guess I will pick one once I know the routing and possibilities, thanks will just pick a D5 from EKWB.
  20. So I am working on my rig 2.0 project and decided to screw it all and go full custom loop after all Now most of the stuff I can figure out quite reasonably, but as a bit of a newb with the watercooling stuff I have 2 questions I want to pass past the crowd here. 1: Pumps. All the pumps just make me look very confused without a clue what is what . Of course to get pump advice you need to know what the loop will contain: Which will be 1 GPU block, 1 CPU block, and 2 360mm rads of around 45mm will have to see what fits (Phanteks Enthoo Evolv TG). So either straight up some pumps which can be good or just telling me what kind of specs I need (and why cause that way I learn something) would be much appreciated. 2: Coolant: I see many bottles of stuff claiming to be special and blah blah, all makes my bullshit detectors thingle a bit. I believe just plain distilled water + a silver kill coil should do the trick right? I don't want a fancy colour for the liquid cause I will have plenty of RGB to around (I could not resist 32GB of that amazing looking Trident RGB memory for exmaple and I am planning to use the phanteks blocks which also have RGB) Thanks in advance and a build log will start likely Saturday as the first bits come in
  21. Not sure if this is the right place, not sure, but I am just trying to find some help Anyhow on to the issue, I already put this on the HOTAS reddit, but nothing so far so I thought I drop it down here as well: I have 3 of these HOTAS setups, 2 of which have faulty sticks which act exactly the same, as in they have power, but don't register any movement or button presses. (1 of the throttles also has a broken cable. yay me :P). Here is an overview of the circuit board from 1 of the sticks I have been measuring trying to figure out what is wrong: So yeah does anyone have an experience fixing these rare units or in general has an idea at what else I can look at or how to fix this issue? I really would like to get them back to working order as they are rare enough as is. Any help is surely appreciated.
  22. Thought about it, but I wanted to get the best out of it both for performance and endurance. I know it is likely not to work, but meh a OEM download is cheap enough so it is a case of try and if it does not work it does not work SSD wise really the 830 is still plenty fast and I just have not found a situation where I need more speed from my SSD. If that happens the MB has an M.2 slot so it is a case of plugging one in down the road when this happens. And well I have both those SSDs any other ones no matter their pricing would add to the budget.
  23. Rig 1.4 is getting to a respectable age (5 years) and specially considering she is build upon rig 1.0 which well was good, but far from perfect it is time to work on a full on upgrade. Current Rig 1.4: CPU: 3770K (I will miss you cause silicon lotery was kind running you at 4.5Ghz for 5 years and even pushing you to 5.0). Cooling: Custom 360 loop (Will not miss you, way to much hassle, started out with a corsair AIO) MB: ASUS Sabertooth Z77 (Never failed me) Ram: 2x8GB 1800Mhz or abouts. (G-skill mem, sadly gotta go) GPU: GTX 980 (will be brought along for the moment and this is GPU number I lost count :P) PSU: Corsair AX860 (RMA replacement for the 850 Originally, this is one deff coming along cause it is an excellent PSU) SSD: Samsung 830 256GB (Coming along, yay for MLC SSDs cause they just last) HD: WD Green 1TB (general backupish storage disk will also come along) Case: 800D (I will NOT miss you biggest mistake of Rig 1.0 was this case) Monitor: some ASUS 27inc 1080p 60hz thing (To be replaced, just not sure if I want 1440P 144hz or go 4K) Rig 2.0: CPU: Ryzen 7 1800X (Should last a good while) Cooling: NZXT Kraken X62 (I just like the clean nature of an AIO over a large tower cooler) MB: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero (Nice bunch of features, love me some more USB ports and while not cheap it seems to be a nice board and my last ASUS board been excellent) Ram: Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 (Ram names are silly can we agree on that? Anyhow picked because it is supported by the MB) GPU: GTX 980 (Is coming along for the moment will be replaced with the monitor at some point, kind of waiting on amd vega) PSU: Corsair AX860 (As said excellent PSU so taking it with me) SSD1: Samsung 830 256GB (windows + stuff) SSD2: Samsung 840pro 512GB (Could snap up a cheap used one, again MLC cause I trust that) HD: WD Green 1TB (Still same role of general backupish drive) Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered glass Grey (Smaller, much better looking and better cooling) Monitor: some ASUS 27inc 1080p 60hz thing (To be replaced, just not sure if I want 1440P 144hz or go 4K) So budget wise I am looking at about 1250EUR to buy all the new parts not yet brought and excluding the Monitor+GPU upgrade which I expect will be about a 1000 as well depend or not if I can get a good deal on a second hand monitor. In general I am keeping an eye on second hand stuff cause saving some money really would not hurt. Yes I know stuff is quite expensive as was my first rig which I think costed me about 2200EUR back in the day, but it has lasted me a long time without failing and honestly I think I could pull an other year or two out of it. However I really don't want to, cause I am just done with it and I can still recoup about 200-300 for the MB+CPU+RAM+Case. Use wise I plan to use it as I do today for gaming, some editing work and general use. Games you are looking at anything from Overwatch to Star Citizen with the later being more important . I am open for any advice/critque and also suggestions regarding monitor+GPU combination and no I am not planning on going VR until we are at least into the second generation and things have matured a little. Peripherals wise I am more than fine so those are a none issue which is nice cause I can only stretch the budget so far . Like Rig 1.0 to 1.4 I plan for this rig to last me an other 5 years with really only an GPU upgrade or two along the way.
  24. GALANT was an amazing series (we miss it) and can indeed be found second hand as it was used a lot. Heck from time to time you can even find them in the bargain corner as office sections of stores get redone. On the new side BEKANT replaced GALANT which has some ups and some downs compared to GALANT, but they are still well going and sturdy. Size wise there are some options, best advise there I can give is layout a measuring tape and see what you think you need and add some more to that (cause you always need more:P) (Just whatever you do, don't buy MICKE or some of the more fancy looking desks at IKEA fancy does not equal functional and there is a reason why those never end up in offices).
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