Zaku77

Hi all, Hoping for some help with a problem that has been driving me crazy. I recently re-purposed a prior build, and part of that included changing the AIO cooler. The motherboard is the Aorus Z390 Master with an i9 9900k The new cooler is this exact Corsair H100 https://www.overclockers.co.uk/corsair-hydro-series-h100-rgb-liquid-all-in-one-cpu-water-cooler-240mm-coo-crs-01009.html I do not currently have a Corsair Commander controller, so I was expecting a lack of RGB, and likely also fan, control. Having said that, iCUE is not even recognizing the pump. I have plugged it into various different headers on the mobo trying to fix this, and it just doesn't seem to work. The pump, and the fans, are working. And I know that a commander will fix the RGB/Fan control issue. But I don't believe the pump is supposed to plug into the controller, so it won't fix the issue of it not showing up. Does anyone have any ideas, or experience, with this happening with this motherboard series? Appreciate any help!

I recently moved into a house that is wired for ethernet with Cat5e, and I'm in the process of getting it all setup. I have hired a network tech to assist with part of the install (Cat5e is run but it's just a bundle of wires right now and not finished), but I need to pick the Ethernet switches. I thought this wouldn't be too bad, but there are so many options that I'm getting a bit overwhelmed. From our talks, managed switches are not needed, but the plus type switches would be a good choice. He also said I need to make sure that they all support STP, which I'm not even seeing clearly marked on most that I look at. I need two 4 or 5 port switches, an 8, and a 16 that is mountable to go in the box with the modem and router. I was looking at Netgear's plus options, and he also suggested TP Link. Does anyone have any suggestions or advice? Thanks!

Realistically either one would solve the problem. I just want to make sure I don't get some cheap-o product that messes with power delivery.

I just moved my main rig from a reference 3080 to the Gigabyte 3080ti. This card doesn't use the new power connector, and it's just the standard dual 8 pin. The way my cables plug in is really cramped and ugly, though, and pushes against the glass panel of my case. Does anyone have any recommendations for 90 Degree adapters that would solve my problem? I found the two below, but I'm not sure of the quality of them. https://www.newegg.com/p/2A6-012R-00012?item=9SIAERNA8T6367&nm_mc=knc-googleadwords&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwords-_-cables - computer power cords-_-cablecc-_-9SIAERNA8T6367&source=region https://www.moddiy.com/products/PCIE-90-Degree-Angle-L-Shape-Low-Profile-Connector-Extension-Cable.html

Does anyone have much experience with navigating Corasair's labyrinth of hardware and software? I currently have an iCUE h150i Elite Capeliix AIO cooler. I'll link it below. This has 3 fans and came with a commander core controller (also linked below). The controller has 6 spots for fan control / RGB, 3 of which are being used by the aio right now. In the iCUE software, it shows up as the AIO, not the rgb controller (which I believe is normal and intended). I just got 3 additional fans for the front of the case that are icue ML 120 elites. From looking at this thing, I should be able to plug the RGB cable and the fan cable into the core controller and control these additional 3 through it (since it supports up to 6 and Corsair's info all says it can support up to 6). When I do plug one in, though, it only partially works. I can go into the lighting setup tab of the h150i in the icue software and have it find the new fan and control its RGB, great. What I can't seem to get it to do is add the new fan to the cooling section so I can control the fan speed. And this is starting to drive me a little bit crazy. Has anyone added additional fans onto one of these things, and what arcane ritual did you perform to get them to show up and be controllable in cooling? AIO Cooler: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Liquid-Cooling/iCUE-ELITE-CAPELLIX-Liquid-CPU-Cooler/p/CW-9060048-WW?utm_source=google&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=shopping&utm_term="keyword"&utm_content=corsair&gclid=CjwKCAjw_tWRBhAwEiwALxFPoW2qnGFdlPtxVKrVjUCCAuFaMfChgSJi4MVOChVm_WCItQU2WWLe3xoCPnsQAvD_BwE#tab-accessories Controller: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/Commander-CORE-RGB-%26-PWM-Fan-Controller/p/CW-8960071 New Fans: https://www.newegg.com/corsair-co-9050113-ww-case-fan/p/N82E16835181272?Item=N82E16835181272

So I've been having some crashing issues lately, and I was just curious if anyone else has any ideas. I keep having display driver crashes that causes games to crash. This has recently started happening with Unreal Engine games. Right now both Dead By Daylight and Code Vein cause display driver crashes that crash the game. This is with and without overclock on my 1080ti. Drivers have of course been updated. Does anyone know of any issues with UE games that causes display driver crashes for certain configurations?

There's a lot going on here, so I'll just try to explain it all as it's happened, and give as much info as I can. I am at a complete loss right now. I just finished (a few days ago) an upgrade to my PC. I've now got the Aorus Master Z390, an i9 9900k (not OC'd) 16gb of Patriot DDR4 (from my mobo's compatibility list), and a 1tb Samsung 970 evo. This is paired with the already present EVGA super nova PSU and Aorus 1080ti. Everything has been fine for the last few days. I've had a few gaming sessions, done some productivity, etc. There have been no problems. Fast forward to today, and the following happened once I turned my PC on to play a game. I fired up Far Cry 5 and it crashed (the type where it just disappears). It did this a couple of more times. Eventually, its splash screen turned white (like windows do when they're not responding) but I couldn't actually close it. I tried in the task manager, and it told me that I don't have permission (which is quite odd). I was also unable to restart or shut down. Eventually, everything just locked up. I did a hard restart. When it came back on, the PC was... possessed? Things wouldn't open. The mouse was lagging and jumping all over the screen. Keyboard entries ranged from not working at all, working fine, touching it once producing 15 keystrokes, etc. I ran virus software just to be safe, and it found some benign nonsense. I restarted to have the same thing happen. On the next restart everything seemed fine. Now I get ready to fire up my game, and I apply my gentle GPU OC. As soon as I do this, the display driver crashes twice. Then the game crashes. It is at this point that I now get a blue screen of death. Whilst all of this is going on, I am seeing the following Errors in the Windows Event Viewer: 10016 10005 1001 (I believe this is only in there once after the blue screen). The blue screen said: UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_MODE_TRAP I just... I have NO idea what to do. I don't know what could be going on, and it's doing my head in that it was FINE when I turned it off last night. All I've done so far is run a memory diagnostics test (mdsched) and that brought up no issues. How do I fix my new build, and what the hell is even wrong with it in the first place?

USB header. I fixed the title now haha. I definitely use the front USB ports, so that’s not a great option. I find it really strange that an expensive mobo like this wouldn’t have more of these.

I’m in the middle of upgrading my PC, and I’ve run into an issue that I don’t know how to fix. I’m using the Aorus Z390 master. It appears that it only has 2 USB2.0 headers. I need both of them for my front USB ports. The problem is that I am using a Corsair H100i pro, and it also needs an internal USB 2.0 header, but the mobo doesn’t have any more. What are my options to get this damn thing plugged in? I’ve included a picture from the manual to make it easier to see what I’m working with.

Windows and Office are the main ones that I was worried about, as basically everything else are games that already have easy DRM systems. Thank you!!

So I just bought upgrades for most of my computer and am getting ready to do a major update. I'm going to do a clean install of everything on a new NVME SSD to get rid of the vestiges of my current system. I've never actually done an upgrade like this before, though. I'm not sure how I can get my copy of windows (as well as programs like Microsoft Office) onto a new build with a clean install. Can someone help me figure out what the best way to go about this would be?

It sounds like the other kit would make more sense more my usage, then. Thanks for the help!

I'm mainly interested in gaming performance. I see that the timings on the kit you linked are better, but it runs at a slihtly lower MHz. Do you think the better timings would lead to an appreciable change in gaming performance to be worth the additional money?

I see the timing difference now. I'm probably going to grab that kit you linked, so thank you for that. It does seem like a great performance for the value. One step closer to my updated build! I'm looking to spend $150 or less. This update to my build is going to end up costing me roughly $1,000, which is a tough pill to swallow, so I'm trying to save money wherever possible! Haha. The Patriot kit that Jurrunio linked to seems like a really good choice overall, and I do now see where it is better than the G Skill that I was looking at.

Just so I can get a better understanding, what makes this better than the G SKill kit? Also, I found the Patriot's model number on the approved list for the mobo that I'll be getting. But it has it listed as 8 GB. I'm guessing that's fine, as each module is 8 GB, and that's probably why it's showing that way, yeah?

I've only ever used XMP for RAM overlcocking, so that would be a bit of a burdensome task, but I'm sure it could be done eventually haha. Do you have any recommendations for comparable, but better products? These seemed attractive due to being 3600 MHz for a pretty cheap price.

Hey guys, I'm in the process of updating my rig by moving over to an i9 9900k build. I am planning on getting the Gigabyte Z390 AORUS Master Mobo. I see that Newegg has the below linked set of G SKill DDR4 ram on sale for a very nice price. I haven't purchased new RAM in years, and I feel that I'm a bit out of the game. Can anyone comment on the quality on this particular RAM kit? I know that BF is coming right up, so I assume that there will be additional sales coming up. I'm just looking for some guidance on this kit, or what might be a better option and why. Thank you!! https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232731&Description=g%20skill%20ripjaw%20v&cm_re=g_skill_ripjaw_v-_-20-232-731-_-Product

Did not even realize that was an option. That might do the trick. Thank you!

I actually looked at that one, as it did look perfect. There was a review staring it was not 2.0, though, so it made me hesitant to choose that one. It looks perfect otherwise. Actually a good example of why trying to find the right one has been difficult.

I'm hoping that someone can help recommend me a good product. I have my PC in my office. On the other side of the wall is my living room where my receiver / entertainment center is. I want to run a HDMI cable into the wall in the office and plug it into the back of an HDMI wall outlet. Then, on the living room side, I'd run a cable from the outlet to my receiver. This is all to have the option of playing my PC through my 4k TV and surround sound. Ideally, I'd prefer the outlet to have an ethernet port, too. I'm having a really hard time selecting the right wall outlet, though. Information online for most of them is sparse, and I want to make sure that I get one that is hdmi 2.0. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks in advance!

So I already have the PG278q. What do you think about the worthiness of upgrading to the IPS version?

Interesting. See, I sit quite close and view it straight on, so I don't feel that color shifting is an issue for me. I'm more worried about color vibrancy any accuracy.

I wanted to get some community opinions on this. I have the original Asus PG278Q G Sync panel. So that's 144hz, 1440p, and it's TN. I've had this for quite a long time now. I originally wanted to upgrade to an ultra wide, but I'm not as sold on that idea anymore. I'm interested in a 1440p HDR g sync monitor, but that could be ages and ages away. So I'm considering moving over to the IPS version of this monitor. I know Asus has the 279q and many other manufacturers have a version, too. Can someone who has spent some time with the TN and IPS versions chime in on whether the IPS really looks that much better? For my own experience, I have a cheap Asus 1080p monitor on the side that is IPS, and I honestly think it looks better (outside of resolution) than my overly expensive G Sync TN panel. This could certainly be confirmation bias, though. Thoughts?

What would your opinion on this one be? It seems to be a slightly older version (the seller of the one I found claims they bought it in 1998). Do you think that this would be a good option? https://www.cnet.com/products/sony-kv-36fv1-wega-36-crt-tv/specs/

Thank you for all of your explanations, and I apologize if my questions come off as a stupid. So you are recommending that I target one of the higher quality CRTs that you mentioned and utilize component to get a 480i output? I had previously heard that the 480p (progressive scan mode) via component would be the best possible picture, dependent on the television it's displayed on, of course. Is that part not accurate? Because if it's not, then I'll just give up my search for a 480p screen.