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GhostDoll GodSlayer

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About GhostDoll GodSlayer

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  1. So I've had the Audioengine A5+ speakers for 2 years and they worked great. I had them connected to my PC through the Schiit Modi 2 Uber DAC. I had this setup in my bedroom. Recently however, I've moved from my bedroom to the living room. The Ethernet cable and modem stay in my bedroom so I had to look for an internet solution. I picked up this powerline adapter from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H74VKZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have it connected in my bedroom and the other one in my living room, this gives me internet access to my PC. However, shortly after this, I started getting a static noise from my speakers. I did some research and found out powerline adapters can create "noise" through the powerlines of the house. I contacted Audioengine and they tried to troubleshoot the issue with me but nothing worked so they asked me to send in my speakers. I sent them in and they sent me new replacement speakers (which I'm assuming means the one's I sent in were non repairable?) I just connected them and tried them and they are also experiencing the static noise. I tried them in multiple power outlets throughout my house and they all produce the static noise. I tried unplugging the powerline adapter to see if this would fix the issue but it doesn't do anything, they still produce static. It seems too coincidental that after 2 years my initial set of speakers they broke right after I switched to the living room. And removing the powerline adapters should fix the noise if they're the problem right? It doesn't, and the fact that Audioengine sent me replacement speakers makes me assume my initial set were faulty in some way. What are the chances of me receiving faulty speakers that were just sent to replace my previous faulty speakers? I'm very confused and annoyed at this issue. Any thoughts are appreciated. Can a powerline adapter damage speakers? I've tried connecting them directly to my PC, without using the DAC, I've used different audio sources, and I've tried them in many power outlets throughout the house. I've also used 4 different power strips as well as directly to the wall. All are giving me a static noise coming from the speakers.
  2. Yes the Speakers have red-white cable inputs and the DAC does as well. I connect the DAC to my PC using the USB type B. If I buy an optical cable I should be able to connect the DAC directly to the TV with that.
  3. Hang on. I actually looked at the DAC I have, It's a Schiit Modi 2 Uber http://schiit.com/products/modi-2 Is that an optical port in the middle? I just now noticed it had that. Would this be able to connect to my TV? Or do DACs only work with computers?
  4. I looked in the manual and it does not. It only has ARC and optical.
  5. So I recently bought a 65" Samsung KS8000 4k TV from Costco and I was setting it up in my living room and I couldn't figure out how to connect them to my speakers. I'm using the Audioengine A5+ bookshelf speakers and a Premier Acoustic PA-150 Subwoofer. The TV has an audio input called ARC that I've never heard about and an optical cable as the other audio input, neither of which my speakers have. Right now I'm using my desktop PC with the TV and I can connect my speakers directly to my PC, but I want be able to use the speakers when there's other sources like PS4, or the smart TV itself. The speakers only have an audio jack and white-red cable inputs. What's a good clean solution? The less cables the better.
  6. I posted this in the computer hardware section but didn't get many replies. So Costco has both of these TVs, ku6290 and the ku6300. Both are 65" Samsung 4k TVs. But the first is $850 and the second is $950. I've been doing research trying to find the difference and all the sites say the only difference is bluetooth and the remote. Anyone have more information? http://www.samsung.com/us/televisions-home-theater/tvs/4k-uhd-tvs/65-class-ku6290-6-series-4k-uhd-tv-2016-model-un65ku6290fxza/ http://www.samsung.com/us/televisions-home-theater/tvs/4k-uhd-tvs/65-class-ku6300-6-series-4k-uhd-tv-2016-model-un65ku6300fxza/
  7. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KU6300-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01E69WHP6/ref=sr_1_3?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1480199392&sr=1-3&keywords=samsung+ku6300 Always stick with Samsung for Smart TVs. Vizio's are a somewhat far 2nd. This TV is selling like hotcakes right now. Great reviews.
  8. I game on a 55" 4k with around a 20ms response time. I don't notice it at all. I don't understand people who game on anything other than a TV. Much more immersive experience. The only people I'd say not to get one is if they do competitive FPS gaming. Maybe they can notice it but I can't. I play FPS on mine and notice no input lag. Could never go back to tiny monitors.
  9. If your budget is $350 I'd get this https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=sr_1_2?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1480189734&sr=1-2&keywords=samsung+ku6300 4k 40" display. You want 4k if you have the power to run games at 4k. Also 31.5" is tiny. If you want a truly immersive experience get a larger screen size. I've been using a 55" 4k for gaming and computer monitor use I just picked up a 65" yesterday.
  10. For 4k TVs you pretty much want to stick with samsung/vizio for the best deals. The only exception right now is the super high end LG OLED e6. Get the samsung. The 6290/6300 are the best mid-tier TV's by a long shot. I just bought a 65" 6290 from costco yesterday.
  11. Yes, I checked there. They basically say the only difference is bluetooth and a standard remote vs smart remote.
  12. So I recently picked up a samsung 65" ku6290 4k at costco for 850. They have the samsung 65" ku6500 curved 4k for 900 and a samsung 65" ku6300 flat 4k for 950. Is there any difference in terms of spec or image quality between the ku6290 and the ku6300? I did a lot of research before buying it and every site said the only difference is that the 6300 comes with bluetooth. Seems a bit odd it would be $100 cheaper. Also why is the curved 6500 going for $50 less than the flat 6300? Thanks in advance!
  13. I have a computer here that doesn't boot into windows (Windows 10). The PC has been running fine for years but my cousin said he recently left it on for a while, it went into sleep mode, when he got back to it nothing worked, he couldn't click anything and had to hard reset it to turn it off. When he turned it back on the problem started. It keeps booting to the BIOS, and it's only showing the 1TB hard drive, not the 250GB SSD where windows is installed. And no matter what we try it just keeps loading into the BIOS, not even showing the SSD to set it as boot priority. Any help? MOBO Asus Z87-PRO (V Edition) CPU: Core i7 4770k GPU: evga 980 classified 16gb ram ssd: 250gb samsung 840 evo hdd: western digital 1tb black
  14. So my dad likes staying up late watching TV in the living room. And I'm a super sensitive sleeper so I can hear it from my room. So I'm in the market looking for some headphones to connect to the TV. (I don't know how they connect or how that even works). The TV is a plasma. They need to be wireless of course. Any recommendations? (Something probably under $60). Thanks!
  15. I'm actually returning it. I didn't like it. As someone who uses a claw-fingertip style this mouse is completely incompatible. The left and right buttons are far too forward and I can't click near the bottom of the buttons where my fingers normally rest. (Comparing it to my deathadder 2013). Probably going to get a chroma, since I don't like heavy mice (G502) The sensor and clicking on the G900 was fantastic though, just those buttons :c
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