Columbo

Air coolers use conduction with heatsinks and heat pipes filled with a gases for cooling. That is why the ends of the heat pipes are sealed. If you cut a heat pipe, you essentially brick your air cooler. The more heat pipes an air cooler has the better it coolers. When you have more surface area like a double 120mm air cooler, the better the cooling. 
 
An AIO has a pump and a radiator to dissipate the heat that is pumped from the CPU pump to the radiator. In theory an AIO should be on top simply because all the heat rises and the radiator is placed at an exit point for heat to escape. There is still conductive heat from the liquid moving around the cooling solution through the metal grates that disperse the heat. An air cooler uses conduction to dissipate the heat. All that heat stays in the case but with good airflow blows it out the back with the exhaust fan. An AIO uses conduction and a sealed liquid cooling solution to offset the heat energy. 

The custom loop liquid cooling solutions have radiators but they also have big liquid reservoirs which make them superior to AIO liquid coolers. They definitely have the cool factor to them but the price of admission is not worth it unless you have money to burn or want to make a statement PC. 
 
The original air cooler that everything is based off of was the Thermalright Ultra 120. The Tuniq Tower 120 and the Cooler Master 212 and others came after that. Then they had air coolers that added double 120mm heatsinks and more heat pipes. Typically 5 or 6 heat pipes are becoming standard. 
 
I have a Cooler Master 212+ (4x heat pipes) in the garage running an old 7600K. I have a i5 10400 running with a Vetroo V5 (5 heat pipes) which gives it better cooling. The Thermalright Peerless Assassin has 6x heat pipes and a double 120mm heatsink fan setup. 

120mm AIO is a waste of space. You need 240mm for an AIO to work as well or better than good air cooling. You want the fan blowing air out if mounted on the top of the case. You want the air blowing into the case if you mount the AIO on front. 

Before Intel entered the GPU market, people said AMD GPU's are not good. Now with Nvidia, AMD and Intel in the GPU space, everybody has forgot about what many said or believed about AMD GPU's. The defacto GPU was always Nvidia and nobody considered AMD GPU's. Their drivers are bad or their performance is nowhere close to Nvidia. Basically AMD always fixes their drivers, it just takes them a year or two. 
 
I have personal experience with the Intel ARC A750. They are updating their drivers like mad. If you have a single monitor, you should be ok. Multi monitor setups become a bit frustrating. They are not supported for OCing with MSI afterburner yet. They have GDDR6 and I am certain being able to OC the memory would yield 10-15% better performance. The ARC interface looks great but the functions and features do not all work. 
 
If you can get a new ARC A750 for $180, I would say go for it. I think having a backup GPU would be a good idea. Intel is spending a lot of time and effort updating the drivers almost weekly. By the time Battlemage is released, people will be questioning AMD GPU's. By that I mean AMD puts very little effort in trying to compete with Nvidia. Nvidia updates their drivers weekly or bi-weekly. I will say the Nvidia updates for the most part are worthless but updating your Nvidia drivers every 3-6 months provides some useful improvements. 
 
The AMD GPU's I like are the 6800XT and 7800XT. Any lower than that the 6650XT that did hit $209 a few months ago. The 4070 is the only Nvidia GPU for the mid range that is worth considering. 

Before Intel entered the GPU market, people said AMD GPU's are not good. Now with Nvidia, AMD and Intel in the GPU space, everybody has forgot about what many said or believed about AMD GPU's. The defacto GPU was always Nvidia and nobody considered AMD GPU's. Their drivers are bad or their performance is nowhere close to Nvidia. Basically AMD always fixes their drivers, it just takes them a year or two. 
 
I have personal experience with the Intel ARC A750. They are updating their drivers like mad. If you have a single monitor, you should be ok. Multi monitor setups become a bit frustrating. They are not supported for OCing with MSI afterburner yet. They have GDDR6 and I am certain being able to OC the memory would yield 10-15% better performance. The ARC interface looks great but the functions and features do not all work. 
 
If you can get a new ARC A750 for $180, I would say go for it. I think having a backup GPU would be a good idea. Intel is spending a lot of time and effort updating the drivers almost weekly. By the time Battlemage is released, people will be questioning AMD GPU's. By that I mean AMD puts very little effort in trying to compete with Nvidia. Nvidia updates their drivers weekly or bi-weekly. I will say the Nvidia updates for the most part are worthless but updating your Nvidia drivers every 3-6 months provides some useful improvements. 
 
The AMD GPU's I like are the 6800XT and 7800XT. Any lower than that the 6650XT that did hit $209 a few months ago. The 4070 is the only Nvidia GPU for the mid range that is worth considering. 

The younger kids here all know the 212+. That is why I listed it. I still have a computer using the Ultra 120 on a kaby lake build. I bought an adapter kit for it for around $8 for it years ago. The Ventroo is a great little cooler. The 10400 never throttle and always runs at max speed and temps are under 70C under full load. I think in Prime 95 I got 75-76C on a max core after 40 minutes of testing. 
 
Here is the original 120mm. They still make the thermalright 120mm. This one has 6 heatpipes. It's hard to find. I am linking it just so that people can see what the original of the 120mm tower coolers looks like. 
 

Try flashing the CMOS on your board regardless of which bios you have installed. I suggest the latest bios and then use a jumper to clear your CMOS and restart your computer. I realize you can revert to stock settings in your bios but that is not the same as using the jumper to clear the bios back to  complete stock. Try that. The next step would be running with only one ram stick but I don't think your memory sticks are the problem. 
 
One other suggestion is to make sure you are using the correct bios. I am talking about the specific motherboard version. You may have installed a bios for a different motherboard. 

Whenever you run into micro stuttering during gaming. That is unstable ram. I have experienced it myself. I think it has more to do with the memory controller than the memory. I have asked many Ryzen OC'ers what memory speeds they run their memory at. For some of the (different forum) experts, it's a closely guarded secret. They do not like to admit fancy ram or motherboards have micro stutters or fails. I assumed that Zen 3 CPU's and X570 motherboards all ran @ either 3733 or 3800mhz or more. 
 
I have a Zen 2 CPU. My memory will boot @ 3800mhz and run but usually results in micro stuttering or phantom crashes within 30 minutes. 3733mhz never crashes but the micro stuttering is a serious problem. The memory controller on the Zen3 chips are the same as the Zen 2 chips. It's not that the ram cannot run perfectly stable at those speeds. It's the memory controller that cannot handle speeds of 3733mhz or greater with 100% stability. 
 
 

I am a powerline expert. 7 or 8 experience with 3 different powerline kits. You only want 1 to 1 powerline connections. Even though powerline supports more than a base and receiver unit you only want one. You only want to plug a powerline base into it's own wall outlet with nothing else connected. The receiver end unit should be the only piece plugged into the wall. That reduces any interference. An AV1000/1200/2000 will produce 150-175mbps download and similar upload speeds using gigabit router/switches. I know the theoretical speeds say they are greater. Running internet through them is what most people do. Your rated speed will be 320-400mbps which you have to halve for real world speeds. 
 
Very similar to a direct ethernet connection, not quite as good but much better than wifi. A mesh network with a wired backhaul is the next best option. Powerline is very much misunderstood and underrated. Another good solution would be MOCA 2 but that is expensive. That will push 1gbps. 

I have 4x16GB 3200MHz CL16 kit of E-die. 
 
Currently I'm running it at 3666MHz CL14 1.44V but I have tested it up to 3733MHz CL14 1.47V and 4000MHz CL16 1.49V.
 
My FCLK goes only up to 1866MHz so I will stick to 3733MHz CL14 once I tweak it out competely but I haven't had any issues with it at CL16 1.43V.

I use override mode. Mine runs 4.2ghz non stop with 1.36v. If you look at your stock CPU. The voltage will go over 1.4v. My vcore stays at 1.36-1.368 according to CPU-Z. I know the 3700x has better binned CPU's than 3600 but that Vcore seems a bit low for stability. Bump it up a bit and you should get 4.5ghz

I would suggest the ASUS ROG Strix X470-F. I don't like it for $180. They used to put it in sale bundled with basically a close to free Gen2 Ryzen CPU. I am somewhat disappointed that AMD is not as aggressive with their pricing of older motherboards.

i am going out on a limb here and suggesting the 3600 instead of the 3700. Wait for Zen3 for the 4700x. My suggestion, go for the value play 6C 12thread CPU until next generation. 

i am going out on a limb here and suggesting the 3600 instead of the 3700. Wait for Zen3 for the 4700x. My suggestion, go for the value play 6C 12thread CPU until next generation. 

You need 550w minimum. I would suggest 600w-650w just to be safe if you are going to have a bunch of LED fans and several HDD's. 

You need 550w minimum. I would suggest 600w-650w just to be safe if you are going to have a bunch of LED fans and several HDD's. 

You want an IPS panel if you care about colors being accurate. TN is acceptable. I have a 144hz TN panel because I live in poverty. 

There is only one expert I would rely on to solve this kind of mystery. 

Am I the only one here who thinks that each computer on a LAN based gaming party would only need 1-2mbps up and down at most? What is with this 10gbps stuff? So 200 players on a bunch of 24 port or more switches would only consume 500mbps of throughput. A xenon server is probably what you want to route all the traffic through. Networking is one of my weaker areas. 

There is only one expert I would rely on to solve this kind of mystery. 

My 3rd Gen i5 3570k @ 4.5ghz will crush your worthless processors from AMD prior to Ryzen. 

My 3rd Gen i5 3570k @ 4.5ghz will crush your worthless processors from AMD prior to Ryzen. 

A waste my friend. It's too old and lacks the instruction sets for streaming. Another good option the 2200G from AMD. They had that APU on sale for as low as $65. 

Do better research. Corsair has had problems with their PSU reliability. Corsair is a memory company. Rebranded PSU's, made in China. Study Chinese factories. All their customers own Chinese factories. China owns every Chinese factory. They make vendors feel as if they own where their products are made. My first computer was a Commodore 64. I learned on an Apple IIe. Tell me I know nothing. Keyboards used to cost 99 cents at computer stores. Mice still cost 99 cents. What you are talking about is known as consumerism. I stand by what I said about Dell PSU's. Crack open an old Dell PC. I doubt you will find any Dell PSU that fried components and most still work. You have been reading reviews and drinking the cool-aid. 

I have both air and water cooling. An AIO is a good solution and better than air cooling. The OP should go with air and 2600 though. 

There is no way to overload a power supply using ordinary components. This thread has reached the absurd level. The myth is that a 550w gold or platinum rated power supply could run SLI, Crossfire or a serious threadripper setup against a nothing rated,Bronze or Silver 850w power. You need to look at the power ratings of your power supply. If you have a 1080Ti or other high end gear, lots of HDD's and optical drives or dual GPU's. You need a power supply with a high wattage rating. 
 
I never said a bronze rated power supply was equal in efficiency to a gold or platinum power supply. I was implying that a bronze rated power supply is all you really need. Increased power rating would offset the efficiency of a gold or platinum power rated unit. Eg. a 550w gold power supply vs. a 700w bronze rated power supply. It's not about what power supply is better, It comes down to dollars and cents. If you want to spend $150 on a super high quality platinum power supply or some bronze or gold rated power supply for $40-$70. It gets into what old timers call snake oil. 
 
You cannot overload a PSU with CPU's or graphics cards or HDD';s. If you power supply is rated @ 550w and your high end CPU, graphics card and other components would cause hangs, crashes and decreased performance for lack of power to power the computer components. I have a 7950 GPU that draws a lot of power. AMD said it needed a 500w power supply minimum. I was able to run my computer with 450w bronze EVGA but I could not OC the 7950 without the computer hanging or freezing after an hour of gameplay. I bought a Seasonic 620w bronze power supply. Never again did my 7950 hang when OC'd. This is just one example. 
 
If there is a gold or platinum rated PSU for $5-10 more than a bronze or silver, buy the Gold or Platinum for improved efficiency. The rating system is setup in such a way that a power supply requires power efficiency 85%, 90% and up to achieve a rating. I think 85% is the minimum for bronze and gold is 90% or more. A 550w gold even if rated @ 95% or better will not be able to run anything that requires 750w+ worth of components. It will be able to run anything up to it's rated power of 550w more efficiently than lower rated PSU's.