Columbo

Unplug the monitor from the power for 2 minutes. While powered off unplug the DP cable from the monitor. Power up the monitor, plug the DP cable back into the monitor. This is assuming you are now using a traditional DP cable and not a HDMI-Display Port or DVI to Display Port cable.

There is no point arguing over a 3 year old card. RDNA2 is outdated technology today. The 7800xt is current generation AMD (RDNA3) offering in the same performance tier.

Air coolers use conduction with heatsinks and heat pipes filled with a gases for cooling. That is why the ends of the heat pipes are sealed. If you cut a heat pipe, you essentially brick your air cooler. The more heat pipes an air cooler has the better it coolers. When you have more surface area like a double 120mm air cooler, the better the cooling. An AIO has a pump and a radiator to dissipate the heat that is pumped from the CPU pump to the radiator. In theory an AIO should be on top simply because all the heat rises and the radiator is placed at an exit point for heat to escape. There is still conductive heat from the liquid moving around the cooling solution through the metal grates that disperse the heat. An air cooler uses conduction to dissipate the heat. All that heat stays in the case but with good airflow blows it out the back with the exhaust fan. An AIO uses conduction and a sealed liquid cooling solution to offset the heat energy. The custom loop liquid cooling solutions have radiators but they also have big liquid reservoirs which make them superior to AIO liquid coolers. They definitely have the cool factor to them but the price of admission is not worth it unless you have money to burn or want to make a statement PC. The original air cooler that everything is based off of was the Thermalright Ultra 120. The Tuniq Tower 120 and the Cooler Master 212 and others came after that. Then they had air coolers that added double 120mm heatsinks and more heat pipes. Typically 5 or 6 heat pipes are becoming standard. I have a Cooler Master 212+ (4x heat pipes) in the garage running an old 7600K. I have a i5 10400 running with a Vetroo V5 (5 heat pipes) which gives it better cooling. The Thermalright Peerless Assassin has 6x heat pipes and a double 120mm heatsink fan setup.

I still have a working Radeon 7950 in a PC. That is from 2012/13. I had the original Geforce 256 back in 2000. The RX 6800 was supposed to be equal to the 3070. After more than two years it pretty much is equal to the 3070. That is how long it takes AMD to optimize their drivers. The RDNA 1 5700 and 5700xt were great cards when you considered the price. AMD is not equal to Nvidia. I agree Nvidia is greedy, that is why people look to AMD. Intel is building their driver library. Once complete they can update drivers based on an established database of all the games. That is why AMD and Nvidia are ahead of Intel. People repeat lip service they heard from youtubers. When you enter a new market you undercut your competition with price and performance. AMD has the RX 7600xt with 16GB of Vram coming at the end of the month. It would make sense for Intel to release an ARC A750 with 16GB of Vram and high frequency GDDR6. A lot of you do not realize much of the performance in low to mid tier cards comes from the GDDR6 memory. The super cards and the XT AMD cards simply have higher voltage on the GPU and supercharged GDDR6 memory.

I have yet to meet a person who builds custom water cooling who never had a leak. So go and spend $1000 for a custom solution. Then calculate how much liquid by volume they use. In my post I mentioned that in some cases air cooling makes sense. I could care less about the fan size going from 240mm to 280mm. It's the size of the radiator, surface area and more liquid to cool the AIO. Stepping up to 360mm or 420mm gives more surface area to the radiator and more liquid cooling. They have already had contests with fans on AIO running full blast with pumps at 100% vs Air cooling. Stock AIO's do not run the fans at 100%. I am not down voting Air Cooling. If someone runs air, they should be comfortable taking it out of the case at least once a year for cleaning. Dust and particles reduce efficiency on air cooling. That is something that does not affect AIO because they have radiators. Heat sinks on air get blocked by dust bunnies.

Before Intel entered the GPU market, people said AMD GPU's are not good. Now with Nvidia, AMD and Intel in the GPU space, everybody has forgot about what many said or believed about AMD GPU's. The defacto GPU was always Nvidia and nobody considered AMD GPU's. Their drivers are bad or their performance is nowhere close to Nvidia. Basically AMD always fixes their drivers, it just takes them a year or two. I have personal experience with the Intel ARC A750. They are updating their drivers like mad. If you have a single monitor, you should be ok. Multi monitor setups become a bit frustrating. They are not supported for OCing with MSI afterburner yet. They have GDDR6 and I am certain being able to OC the memory would yield 10-15% better performance. The ARC interface looks great but the functions and features do not all work. If you can get a new ARC A750 for $180, I would say go for it. I think having a backup GPU would be a good idea. Intel is spending a lot of time and effort updating the drivers almost weekly. By the time Battlemage is released, people will be questioning AMD GPU's. By that I mean AMD puts very little effort in trying to compete with Nvidia. Nvidia updates their drivers weekly or bi-weekly. I will say the Nvidia updates for the most part are worthless but updating your Nvidia drivers every 3-6 months provides some useful improvements. The AMD GPU's I like are the 6800XT and 7800XT. Any lower than that the 6650XT that did hit $209 a few months ago. The 4070 is the only Nvidia GPU for the mid range that is worth considering.

Water cooling is superior to air cooling. Some of these air craft carrier sized air coolers perform great but they give you little to no access to memory modules or anything in your case. That means if you want to adjust your memory kit or M.2 drive, you will have to remove your air cooler. I use both air and water depending on what I am looking for. An old PC build with a 7600k, that gets an air cooler. The air cooler fanboys do not want to go up against a 360mm or 420mm AIO. Air coolers can hold their own against 240mm AIO's. Once you get to 280mm AIO, it's a coin flip for the better Air coolers. The best selling point for AIO is the ability to make adjustments and modifications to your PC build without any obstructions. It makes the case wide open. Some motherboards have led's for trouble shooting or errors on the board. With an AIO, you can see those lights. With air cooling, being able to see or get to LED lights on the motherboard may be difficult to nearly impossible to see. If you are using the smaller 120mm air coolers like the Coolermaster 212+, those are easy to work on and around. Just make sure if you get air cooling, go with at least 5 heat pipes. Six heatpipes like on the peerless assassin would be ideal. If you go the AIO route 240mm will do just fine with 6-8 core CPU's. If you want to keep things cool 280mm or 360mm will do the job better. With AIO you can adjust the sound volume by turning the fan speeds down. The temps will go up a bit but AIO can give quiet to near silent operation.

120mm AIO is a waste of space. You need 240mm for an AIO to work as well or better than good air cooling. You want the fan blowing air out if mounted on the top of the case. You want the air blowing into the case if you mount the AIO on front.

You have to look on the bright side. By the end of 2023, Intel should have all the driver issues works out for the most part. On paper the A750 should be close to or equal to a 3060ti. That is a best case scenario. It should equal the 4060 and RX 7600. Arc has more upside potential. Look at the 3DMark results. Arc does well. I know the resizable bar works on the Zen 3 CPU's but I am not sure it works on Zen 2 CPU's. Arc A750 $200 or less makes it an interesting option.

The younger kids here all know the 212+. That is why I listed it. I still have a computer using the Ultra 120 on a kaby lake build. I bought an adapter kit for it for around $8 for it years ago. The Ventroo is a great little cooler. The 10400 never throttle and always runs at max speed and temps are under 70C under full load. I think in Prime 95 I got 75-76C on a max core after 40 minutes of testing. Here is the original 120mm. They still make the thermalright 120mm. This one has 6 heatpipes. It's hard to find. I am linking it just so that people can see what the original of the 120mm tower coolers looks like.

Everybody has their own opinions on cooling. I personally think water cooling AIO 240mm or 280mm is the way to go. If you want air cooling, start and stop with 120mm heatsinks. The 4 pipe coolers are the bottom and they go up to 6 pipe coolers and maybe beyond that. Usually they add a second 120mm fan. I would stick with a single fan setup. A 212+ variant. All are based on the original 120mm Thermalright 120mm cooler from more than 10 years ago. I have an intel build (Dell) that I put in a (Intel i5 10400) Ventroo V5 120mm with 5 heatpipes. I used it because it was a short 120mm and the only tower 120mm heatsink that would fit into the small case. Those have gone up in price but were $20-25 and now seem to be around $35. Deepcool as an ultra cheap gammaxx400 for $15 on Amazon. Usually I suggest the CoolerMaster 212+. The Noctua stuff is expensive and usually has the best cooling.

Here is my 5600 in all it's glory. It runs @ 4.8ghz 24x7 with E-die 3800mhz (dual rank memory) Tom's hardware just did a 5600 comparison, but they do not OC the 5600 to 4.8ghz or run it with 3800mhz memory. My 5600 is a drop in replacement of my 3600 that is now on a B350 motherboard but it also runs the memory @ 3.8ghz and OC'd to run 4.2ghz all day. The 3600's did not OC well if at all. The 5600 is on the B2 stepping vs. B0 for the 5600x. It will run 1.35v all day @ 4.8ghz just like the 5600. https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/53013550  I got the 5600 for $160+tax.

I think it's your motherboard. AsRock kind of sucks. I would stick with MSI or ASUS in future builds if I were you. AsRock bios support is really bad. They boards look nice and the specs are good but they lack the bios support to make things work well in my opinion. I have dual rank Micron E-die running @ 3800mhz on my signature board. I have a B350 running 3800mhz on an MSI with a 3600mhz with no issues with the latest AGESA bios. Before, my B350 would only run 3600mhz stable.

Try flashing the CMOS on your board regardless of which bios you have installed. I suggest the latest bios and then use a jumper to clear your CMOS and restart your computer. I realize you can revert to stock settings in your bios but that is not the same as using the jumper to clear the bios back to complete stock. Try that. The next step would be running with only one ram stick but I don't think your memory sticks are the problem. One other suggestion is to make sure you are using the correct bios. I am talking about the specific motherboard version. You may have installed a bios for a different motherboard.

I have a 5600 running @ 4.8hz 24x7 1.362v and memory @3800mhz with Cas 16. I have a 1660super that is OC'd and BF2142 @1440p cannot humble my little modified gamer build. My old 3600 is in a B350 system with the new AGESA which now supports memory @3800mhz. Before the max stable ram speeds on my B350 were 3600mhz.

Several years ago AMD suggested using after market coolers for maximum performance. That includes running a 5600x at stock settings. $20-30 is a small price to pay to never have to worry about throttling or performance issues related to heat.

I am not disagreeing your your last statement on possible 120mm air coolers. All good choices. During the pandemic I bought a Dell with an i5 10400. I just wanted the 1660 super in it and gave it to my brother. I put in a Ventroo V5 ($25) before even turning on the Dell. It runs at full turbo speed and never throttles. The Ventroo is compact and was the only 120mm cooler that would fit the Dell case. I agree the AMD included coolers are much better than what intel includes with their CPU's. They still suck, just not as bad as the other free with CPU air coolers. I just got a standard 5600 to replace my 3600. It has the B2 stepping. I manually OC my CPU, no turbo. Without a very good air cooler or 240mm AIO or better. You can't get much out of your CPU.

Arctic Silver 5 is always good enough. You just need a 120mm air cooler and you should be fine. They are all pretty much the same. A better fan adds cooling power. The best option is a 240mm AIO cooler but air cooler fans will argue that point. Never use stock coolers but always expect them to be included with your new PC purchase. They make great paper weights and decorations.

If you get a 32GB kit, you will by default have dual rank memory like me. I have a 32GB E-die kit.

I have the 32GB E-die kit 2 X 16GB sticks in the DDR4 3000mhz kit. I have it running on a Ryzen 3600 @3800mhz 16-19-16-16-38-58 1.41v. If I had these sticks in an intel build, they would run 4000mhz pretty easy with Cas 16. My TRFC setting is 560.

I have the 1660 Super. It's basically a 1660Ti. There is a lot of OCing headroom in the 1660 super. The GDDR6 is the same memory in the 3060/3070/3080 cards. I think the higher you go in those cards the better the binned GDDR6 memory chips. All of the OCing potential in the 1660 Super is in the memory.

I didn't say that wired has any loss in speed or bandwidth. I said that wireless is generally half of what the bandwidth is. Wireless AC typically has a max speed of 850mbps regardless of the theoretical bandwidth because the band has a max throughput of 850mbps. There are some wireless bands that have 1700mbps bands but they are limited by the ethernet port speed. I have not tested it but in theory you could sling wireless AX between two wireless AX computers. Your speed would be limited halved by the maximum band transfer rate. I have a mesh network with wilress AC. I have wired backhauls with Cat6 and a gigabit internet connection. My band is somewhere in that 800-850mbps band. It pushes up to 625mbps wireless but typically in the 450mbps-500mbps range. Without wireless backhaul, it would push 380mbps + or minus 20mbps. If your band has a bandwidth of 1750mbps you should be able to get 50% (875mbps) of that in your iperf test. A gigabit connection is good for 940mbps.

Is your modem to your bandwidth a 1 gigabit port? You may need a modem with 2.5gbps ethernet ports. You cannot send data beyond what your modem ethernet port is capable of. Your speeds look similar to wifi ac. I am guessing your wireless ax speeds exceed the speed of your ethernet port which is causing your slower than expected wifi speeds. If you have a computer with 2.5gbps or 10gigabit port. You could then sling it via your wifi ax wifi. Your real world speeds are half of your bandwidth so you would see wireless ax speeds in the neighborhood of 800-900mbps.

I just switched from a Phanteks P400 tempered glass to a BeQuiet! Pure Base 500DX. The case has 140mm fans non RGB but the case has an LED light show and I upgraded my 240mm AIO to the RGB fans version. It puts on a crazy RGB light show that people thought cost me hundreds of dollars. It's better to have quality fans than RGB fans all over. My 2 RGB fans are hanging from the top of the case. All you see is a crazy light show plus the LED experience of the case. If you go the expensive RGB fan route. Make sure you get 3 or 4 pin RGB connectors based on what your case or motherboard supports.

I have both Cyber Power and APC battery backups that both use the standard simulated sine wave technology. Flip a coin, I think the battery power lasts longer on the Cyber Power. Everybody thinks APC is the gold standard. If you want pure sine wave, go for it but you should be more concerned about replacing the batteries every 3 or 4 years.