DerBernd

ASRock has a motherboard that has a similar layout (4+1 phase power delivery) and they only allow certain 8 core CPUs with a downdraft cooler. Some of them had temperature stability issues without overclocks. I have to stress again that that was a different mainboard from yours.
 
If you get a big downdraft cooler like the Noctua NH-C14 or something beefy you might be able to get some overclock in. But I have to agree with the poster before me: Do some research and search for some people with the same CPU and mobo combinaiton. It is way cheaper to learn from other peoples mistakes.

You can simply click on MARK SOLVED under my post. (right where the EDIT (in your posts) and REPORT buttons are)

The Noctua has warranty on the fans for 6 years. AIOs have to be serviced earlier. Also: you can get Noctua mounting brackets for upcoming sockets.
 
If you want peace of mind: Noctua.

Quick fix: fans on top of the rad and then just two of three fans on the bottom rad, that could fit. Then rebuild the system at the first maintenance with the final setup.

To actually answer your question, no you cannot upgrade from X86 to X64, its not possible (at least not officially anyway). You must do a full reinstall.
I believe there is a hacky way of doing the upgrade from X86 to X64 but if it was my computer I certainly wouldn't risk OS integrity by using some hacky upgrade method to achieve a job which should never be attempted.

Video stored locally on the PC, but station software client was running. It was on my machine (set the nas up with a friend). The video was on the harddrive in my pc. I could verify my buttstation software as the reason. My friend had the same problem on his computer (mine a desktop, his a laptop). The NAS was not guilty, the software on the computer was.
 
 
Programs would not run that fast off a NAS, games would be slow as well. There is a utility that can store your steam games somewhere else and do the copy process for you. So you could store the games you are currently not using there but playing them directly of the NAS does not work well.

Mainly due to automated pricing robots meeting shops with a portfolio that is too big for a single person to know.
 
I would weed out the slowest drive since you will surely carry it over to your next laptop or PC. The 7 Euro difference buys you about 3-4 coffees at your university campus.

4Gig is ample if you do not overdo it on the tab side. I just saw the 2Gig statement above and thought you might have not enough RAM.
 
All of the SSD are okay. I would personally go for the HyperX Fury (500/500 read/write) but I cannot imagine that your windows will be slower on a SSD that only does 200-300 Megabytes per second read (mine certainly isn't since I have mine on a SATA2 port).
 
Yeah, I would get the fury and continue to use it in my next laptop or computer as well.

60 Gb is fine for Operating System, heck my main rig runs fine of an 32Gig SSD, my tablet has also no more than 32 Gig and runs Win8.1 just fine. If it's in budget go for the bigger SSD (well d'uh). 60€ buys you a 128 Gigabyte SSD.
 
Just get some 128 Gig SSD. If it fails within the first two years: The seller has to repair or replace it. European guideline (guideline 1999/44/EG to be exact). You will probably not feel a difference between write speeds of 300-ish megabytes per second and 500-ish megabytes per second.
 
If you really only have 2 Gigabytes of RAM I'd recommend upgrading that as well. If you have one slot free than you could just throw in another 4 Gig for 6 total. Memory Speed is not that important in Desktop work.

To be exact:
 
For normal consumer use you can also use Windows (normal consumer grade like home, home premium or professional). Might be easier since you do not have to learn that much. I recall some problems with using teamviewer to administrate your nas-windows-machine without a monitor plugged in but that can be alleviated by using VNC (its free).
 
Buying a NAS:
You can buy it with or without harddrives. Plugging them in is a piece of cake. The rest is kind of plug and play. You plug it in, search in your router for it's IP adress and get into the web interface, set the harddrives into the preferred RAID mode and then create some shares. Maybe setup some users with different shares and permissions.That's about it for the most basic use. Advanced features require you to study the handbook for a bit. You will have it up and running the evening on the day you get it, the more advanced features will take you about two to three additional evenings tops. A nas you buy will be lower in terms of power consumption. Around 5 watts powered on plus 4 watts per each hard drive. Little NAS systems tend to have a busy, small fan (80 or 92 mm) which can be louder than a PC.

Building a NAS:
Screwing the PC together, setting up the hardware raid,  installing the OS, messing around with the energy savings options to prevent it from going into sleep mode, installing drivers, setting up network shares. Done. Will take you about half a day for a windows based system and about a week for a linux based thing. Power consumption wise you can get something like this down to sub 20 watts (like my machine). A well insulated case might be quieter than a bought NAS since your PSU will run near silent.
 
Advantages of Windows: You already know it
Advantages of Linux: free, Speed, immune to windows malware and great remote access possibilities
 
If you give your nas computer a permanent display you can also use it as a workstation for normal office stuff and browsing. No need to power up the power hungry gaming machine.

You can always buy a NAS. But since we do not know what the NAS has to do we cannot recommend one.
 
But I can give you some pointers to try out:
Get your hands on some harddrive (no specific NAS drive yet, just a spare harddrive you surely have somewhere around (external enclosure or something similar) or even a decently fast USB 3.0 stick. Slap the components into a case, plug it in and install some Ubuntu variant on it, I recommend Kubuntu (with the KDE desktop) or LXLE (Lubuntu variant) both have a windows-like desktop (unity of normal ubuntu is a mystery to me). Be sure to get the 14.04.1 LTS version (LTS = Long term support, support ends somewhen 2017).
 
Ubuntu has the advantage that you have good explanations on how to do stuff. Mostly just copy and paste. Experiment around with some Samba shares (they display as normal windows shares in your windows network) and try to get a handle on things. Once you are somewhat familiar with your linux distro you can plan on getting some more components (SSD for system, HDD's for a hardware RAID. Your RAID will depend on the amount of data and the required redundancy.
 
Or you could do freenas if you wanted to. I know nothing about freenas hence I cannot recommend it.

Not only cable management also for mounting all the stuff since you can plug the motherboardconnector in outside of the case.
 
Looks fine to me, although I would not get a windowed case with that colour matching but it is your rig and if you want to see your 1300€ of components, so be it.

There is Ethernet cable especially for outside use. I have found some that costs around 1,25€ per meter so around the same as cat7 duplex. PVC tubing would be nice or do some steel tubing. Be aware that cable for the outside is installation cable so that you need to put jacks at either end.
 
How cold is it getting at your place? How hot in summer?
 
Normal cat5 installation cable will be fine for some years as well. But no permanent solution.

Sorry non hablas inglés nativos therefore my technical terms might not be 100% correct since German provides the ability for highly detailed technical terms that would take a sentence to explain in English.
 
Anyway: You can run installation cables to Ethernet outlets on the walls. 50 meters of cat7 duplex cable (meaning one of these cables for each Ethernet outlet since they have two jacks each) would cost 53€ on Amazon. They allow you to switch the jacks in 5-10 years and replace them with 10 Gigabit jacks since cat7 is specified for 10GB Ethernet. Talking 20 year infrastructure here. Unless you want to do an array of a ton of Ethernet outlets: you need a patch panel where you can just patch in the installation cable and plug in some Ethernet cable and THEN connect to a 24port switch (or whatever is needed). Spacewise: If you run your cables neatly you have the space for three duplexcables).
 
Do you want to mount the stuff on the wall in a cable duct or do you want to do the whole cutting the wall open thing (if you have drywall that might be easier than the European trend of using plaster on stones). Or do a mixed solution, whatever makes the most sense in your home.
 
I would get one big switch and not several small ones. Not having more little boxes around is a plus. Plus I would run duplex to the cellar, redundancy, if one fails you can switch and do not have to run wire whilst disconnected from the net.
 
tl;dr: get cat7 duplex instead of cat6 (cheaper), get a single switch, use installation cable, Ethernet jacks and a patch panel

Guys, calm your temper. The only software requirement I see is the VMWare Horizon client, I quote:
 
 
Seems like a virtual desktop viewer client to me, not the Big Brother himself. Seems like a bring your own device (BYOD) style system to me, like you get in certain airplanes or bus services.
 
If I had to guess I would say that they do not mention linux because they do not want to support it. I mean how many different distros are there?

We deployed two ubiquiti Access points (not exactly topic realted) which had dd-wrt installed by the retailer, insanely stable around 400 days uptime on them now without a hitch. I know those are no router, but there might be routers with dd-wrt on them out in the wild. If they are anything like our access points they should be great.

You can get decent speed: Something like 150 Megabits is achievable under test conditions (pure thorughput and stuff). But you need to be on the same phase and you need somewhat new wiring. A bit of aging might not affect power delivery but can severely degrade signal quality. A test I read found out that having a 200 megabit adapter is enough and 500 megabit do not provide bandwith in excess of 200 Mbit soooo yeah, there is that.
But be aware that anything you switch on during transmission might have an effect on the signal quality. In order of what you want to have in terms of network you have: ethernet cable > powerline > wifi. Speaking for stationary applications of course.

People always go on rants with this topic and it's the same old answer every time. You mentioned what spec kit you have so the answer is pretty simple. Here are the things you mentioned ranked by what sort of speeds you should expect to get in and around IRL "on average".
 
#1 Wired -> 1Gbps/100Mbps
#2 Powerline AV500 -> ~60Mbps
#3 Wireless N300 -> ~30Mbps
#4 N300 + range extender -> ~15Mbps
 
and as a general rule of thumb, if you think a range extender would be of benefit then powerline is always going to be a better option. Purely because of the fact that powerline's strength lies in its ability to work at a longer range (which is the problem people try to solve with range extenders) and wireless' weakness is when the channel is being shared (as it is when you run a range extender).

While writing that I googled for antenna extension cables but did not find it worth the mention.

Well do you know which university you are going to? Do you know how big the dorm is actually going to be?

If your current case fits under the table you might put it on some kind of creeper dolly and move it under the desk if you do not use it. So you might have no clearance issues when it is not turned on.
 
As a former dorm-dweller (not technically but kinda similar) I do not think that the missing 2 or 4 inches are that big of a deal. You'll find space somewhere.

Since he seems very stubborn and the tone does not seem to get better my advice for your situation would be social engineering:
 
-spend more time at University, you must have some reasonable comfortable rooms with wifi there somewhere. Just download your youtube suscriptions with a video grabber and you are done with 90% of your traffic (not counting netflix et al). A friend of mine had no internet in his apartment for two months. The only thing you will be giving up is spontaneous decisions on what video to watch. Binge watching youtube is not very productive and not a highly valuable use of your time anyway. Start reading books, that will freak him out.
 
-use a VPN to mask your traffic, tell him that you do not like to be monitored if you want to escalate or tell him that it is the connection to your uni, most of the unis I know provide outside access to ressources via VPN. Only tell him about the vpn if he talks about it.
 
-Give him some actual data on how much a household uses in terms of data. He will point to his bogus source of 30 Mb traffic then you confront him with several different sources. Tell him that only relying on one source is a very poor strategy for deciding on a plan for action. Point him to his beloved stocks and ask him wether he would make trades based on information he has from a source that is a) very old and b ) contrary to what the rest of the research and business is saying.
 
Lastly let me tell you: We are in a similar situation, I recently moved back in with my parents (suffered from depression which lead to bad grades at uni or vice versa) and I have to deal with 6 Megabit Internet (which effectively is a traffic cap per day to 30-40 Gigabytes depending on the source). The solution is cooperation with your parents. Argue for more data to look at lecture videos and stuff that is traffic intensive but related to your field of study. Argue that a linux distro alone is bigger than 1 gigabyte. Or software that you use at Uni that is bigger.

At last: try to coax your father into creating more traffic than he used to. Encourage him to get a smart TV or some other stuff that is enjoyable and traffic intensive (like online porn, ha ha, only kidding).