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BrinkGG

Member
  • Content Count

    2,987
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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7 Followers

About BrinkGG

  • Title
    A.K.A. Brink2Three

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    BrinkGG #6402
  • Reddit
    reddit.com/user/Brink_GG/
  • Twitch.tv
    twitch.tv/brinkgg
  • Twitter
    twitter.com/brink_gg

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pacific US
  • Interests
    Music, Gaming, System Building, Streaming, CAD/CAM, Silent PCs, I.T., all things VR
  • Occupation
    CAD Modeling, Linux Server/Virtualization novice

System

  • CPU
    i7-8700k @5.0GHz
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte z370p-D3
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x 8GB 3000MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1080 8GB
  • Case
    Corsair 760t
  • Storage
    480GB SSD SanDisk, 525GB SSD Crucial, 2TB WD BLUE, 2TB WD RED
  • PSU
    EVGA 650w SuperNOVA
  • Display(s)
    Asus VG248QE (24" 144hz), Dell WFP 3008(@1600p), Vizio M437-g0 (@4k), Oculus Rift CV1
  • Cooling
    Cryorig H5 Ultimate
  • Keyboard
    HyperX Alloy FPS Pro TKL (MX BLues)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G603
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD 6xx, AT2020, Scarlett 2i2, Fiio FH5 (Travel)
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional
  • Laptop
    Macbook Pro 15" (2015): i7, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD, Radeon M370x

Recent Profile Visitors

2,738 profile views
  1. Spin the HDMI cable around /s For real: In raspian (Or noobs, whichever you have downloaded), click the start menu (Little raspberry), then Preferences, then screen configuration. Once there, Click on the display box you'd like to edit (most likely HDMI-1), then hit configure in the top bar of the window, then screens, then HDMI-1, then change your orientation there. You may need to adjust resolution after changing this. If this doesn't work, let me know. Cheers!
  2. That puzzles me, as I specifically have avoided buying Ring products after the articles suggesting employees can snoop on the cameras. How much research could they possibly have done to miss that and the multitude of articles about Internet cameras in general being insecure? This right here is why I don't like buying pre-designed systems like this and will stick with dumb or custom cameras and an NVR with motion notifications. Something like motionEyeOS or similar IP cameras on a separate subnet with no internet access (updating them by physically moving them to do deb updates and such, which are once every 3 months or so) is much preferred to me.
  3. I think this depends on where the house is built and the building code he's in, but yes: In the US, most housing electrical circuits are 15 amp peak, not sustained. Usually around 13.5 amps from my experience.
  4. If you play competitively (or want to) and have a reaction time better then about 170ms, the extra frames can give you a real advantage.
  5. I don't see why a Diamondback Chroma and a G305 board couldn't be melded into a god tier wireless diamondback with a hero sensor... Maybe check out the mouse modding subreddit and see if anyone has 3d models for an adapter already? I wouldn't be surprised if they did.
  6. Steam doesn't sell your phone number. You can also tell steam to send you an email instead of a text or mobile alert for MFA. Shouldn't be that big of an issue. Don't. This can only make things worse as you probably wouldn't even be allowed in without an appointment. Plus, yelling at some random staff member won't help your situation at all. They can't do anything to help. My suggestion: download the steam app, turn on steam guard, it should ask for a phone number or email to verify with.
  7. Need to know the wattage of your PC and Space heater. Max is 15 Amps at 120 volts. AKA 1800 watts.
  8. Hey Phil! From what you're describing, a buttkicker us not your best option here, you should look for a speaker amp and an audio transducer, or bone conduction audio. Let me explain: The buttkicker is an audio transducer (taking an analog audio signal and converting it into strong, physical vibration), but it is specifically designed for frequencies below 200Hz (very low in terms of the full human hearing range of 20Hz-20kHz), and for additive effect when used with headphones. It's also not designed to be used as a standalone system. They're designed to use a pair of traditional headphones and just add low end. They're fairly overpriced for this. A traditional audio transducer or bone conductor system on the other hand, converts full range human hearing into physical vibration. For example, a headset like This headset from Aftershokz sits in front of your ear on top of your cheekbone, and physically vibrates to conduct sound that can be heard when that vibration passes through your skull to the outside of your ear canal. (Full link for sourcing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N51R0GL/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_cz87DbNVPEDNZ) Another configuration you can look at is bass exciters and transducers with an amplifier. These act in a similar way, by converting analog audio to physical vibration, but are focused on low frequencies again. Difference is price. Getting a transducer, amp and cables is often cheaper then getting a buttkicker. Here's a simple parts list I would use for something like this: Transducer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LH266V/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_MA87Db5F8F14T Amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076XSBCCL/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_8l97DbZVBRGMF (Use the Aux input, not bluetooth) Bone conducting headphones: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N51R0GL/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_cz87DbNVPEDNZ If you want or need more info feel free to reply! I'd be glad to help.
  9. iirc, the Gsync module is integrated into the PCB of your monitor. I don't think there's an easy way to remove it. There was a video about replacing laptop displays a while back that references a website where you can find the exact panel for a laptop or monitor... I can try to find it if needed or you can look through the video.
  10. MiMo is a thing... 3x3 is standard on most consumer devices and if he's on 5GHz, his rated ISP speed (or something else in the chain) will be his limit on streaming. For consistency, that depends entirely on the environment your device is setup in. If there's a lot of interference, then he'll have issues with stability just because there are other devices talking on the same channels. Picking better channels can help.
  11. 70 Dollars is not gonna get you any good mesh system. For a decent mesh system, you're probably looking at $200-$300 USD. At that price, I recommend picking up a consumer router like an Asus AC66U or Tp-link Archer A9 and putting them in bridge mode. That would be your best bet.
  12. Hey, welcome to the forum! My general recommendation for mesh wifi has been Ubiquiti APs for a while now, but it greatly depends on the user and the size of the space you're working with. How big is the house and what's your budget for this?
  13. Nope. Thunderbolt is a digital signal to your A/i. As long as you have your DAC configured properly, you shouldn't have crackle. If you do and you know everything is configured correctly, then you have dead or dying hardware somewhere in your signal chain. EDIT: ^This is all true of any DAC, Audio interface, or any USB audio device. Not just for these motherboards on TB3.
  14. Assembling a 3D printer is extremely simple. a $300 DIY printer will get you the same quality of a $500-700 pre-assembled 3D printer. Here's a video of the assembly for an Ender 3: Yes it's long, but even me when I had no experience at all was able to assemble my ender 3 pro based off of this guide. 6 months later and I've been modeling my own parts to print and having great success. Don't count out a printer cause it's a kit.
  15. So SLA/DLP (Resin) printers have much higher clarity, but cost more, have more post processing time (UV bath and such), smaller print beds, and more expensive "raw material". I usually recommend FDM printers to start with because all you have to worry about is leveling the bed, feeding filament, then removing support material (if you use it) while printing. You also learn a lot about 3D modeling, optimizing designs for printing, and other fundamentals of additive modeling and manufacturing. As for printers, the one you picked is a ripoff of the monoprice maker mini (a well known printer). I no longer recommend this one for one simple reason: No heated bed. Heated beds make first layer adhesion SOOO much easier, I don't recommend getting anything without it, especially as a beginner. Look at the Ender 3 printer. One of the most well known beginner printers with step by step guides on assembly and calibration. **MAKE SURE IT'S THE CREALITY VERSION** don't get a ripoff version as they have very sketchy power supplies.
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