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PBaines got a reaction from kingkickolas in Toyota Corolla 1979 KE30 - Build log *for some to enjoy*
100% off topic. But might be interesting to some.
From Desk to car, here is my latest project.
Bought me a KE30 that needs some doing up to get her perfect.
Plan is to drop a worked 4A-GE Blue top into it for some more power. Don't know when but at some stage the car has had a new worked 4K engine in it and maaan does it haul. Dragged off a 160hp Subaru Legacy! Though it guzzles down too much juice being twin carbey'd so the 4A-GE should give better fuel economy with a little more power.
Here are the trademe photos. Looks a lot nicer in those photos than it actually is!
And here we have the work that I have started on her!
Basically just the Bog, fixed the vinyl on the front door cards as some muppet didn't do it properly the first time. vinyl doesn't have enough over hang so had to staple it in pretty much.
Installed some component speakers. Wired in the new head unit.
Replaced original creme door arms, door window rollers and window handles with original black ones. Ones that were in there had been painted red and then eventually it had all scraped off so looked piss poor. Also too much red in the car need to spice it up with some black. Some more chrome bits would be nice too. Will definitely put some chrome side mirrors on it
Here we have an update.
Primed/painted rear wind screen cutout as had rust and when previous owner painted the car red they didn't mask around the wind screen seals properly so a green rim around the seal was clearly visible and my OCD was too troublesome.
Put new bucket seats in as getting in and out of the car was a pain due to the steering wheel. So got some reclinables that I find much better (though not as comfy as a fixed seat)
Time to fix up the left sill and other bits and pieces as the front and rear wind screens are in. Today I painted the sill, and a little bit on the back. Next task will be to clear coat it all which I will do in a few days Forgot to do the glovebox when I did the dash! Started bogging up and trying to get rid of all the cracks in the back of the bumper from previous owner who backed into a power pole. Gave it a coat of prime to clearly outline areas that still needed to be sanded down. After sanding for what seemed like forever I am happy with the result. Back now all painted, clear coated and buffed. Bumper back on. NOTE: Am going to get it chromed, and get new tail lights on the bumper. But am a lot happier with how it is looking at the moment. Chroming the bumper will be at the end of the list of things to do, will get the 4AGE dropped in it first. . Have been quite busy lately. Have sort of come to a halt with work on the car as I am spending time rebuilding the 4AGE. Stripping the engine down It was clear that it had a blown head gasket, and probably ran low on oil for a while. Decided it was best to replace the bottom end and main bearings. Full gasket and also piston rings too as well as doing a hone. So this will basically be a brand new 4AGE once it is done. Also got the cams ground down at Kiwi Cams. They did a cut that they always do on stock ECU 4AGE's that go mint so will see how they go. Powerband from 2500rpm up and a slightly aggressive idle. Received my central locking kit in the mail which I have eagerly been waiting for. it is not till you don't have central locking do you realise what a pain in the arse it is. Getting the kit mounted on Also got my new tail lights which look 100x times better. Went for a nice drive down a gravel road too. It was 30 minutes of joy I assure you. Cannot wait to put a hilux diff in this with an LSD Cam sheet for anyone interested Time to start the motor. Taking pics of every angle so I know exactly where things go just in case. Even though I have a good idea anyway. After it was stripped down I got some citrus based degreaser to clean the block up a bit. Has come up very nice. Also that plate got bent in shipping to my place but will sort that obviously. Getting the crank pulley off. Should have used a breaker bar but the only 6 point socket I had was 1/2" and my powerbuilt sett is 3/8" Will get more pics up of the process of getting the new bearings etc
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PBaines got a reaction from CaptainSav916 in The Water Cooling Gallery
Here is my first WC rig I did when I was 15
This one I did when I was 16
About 6 months later, still 16 I did this one too
The most recent build here when I was 17.
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PBaines got a reaction from davidgr95 in HTC One M7 charging issues
The early M7's power buttons are flat, and the later model ones have a slight raise.
Best thing to do is if the connector is broken, is get a new charging assembly. a very time consuming process and would be quite hard but probably the only option you have if it is indeed beeeroken
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PBaines got a reaction from Leinahtan in Custom Water Cooled Desk - 56k warning. Lotsa Pictures! *Now with Table of Contents*
Well well. Bit of a bump here. I have gotten some free time in the coming weeks and will endeavor to get the revised version done. I have also finalised my sketch for it too, what you see is what it will look like
Be ready for awesome 2.0
I have also called this desk
Might get it printed out and put it on the glass
Erection Resurrection
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PBaines got a reaction from Leinahtan in Custom Water Cooled Desk - 56k warning. Lotsa Pictures! *Now with Table of Contents*
Also, wholey shit did I not expect this!
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PBaines got a reaction from NeatSquidYT in Custom Water Cooled Desk - 56k warning. Lotsa Pictures! *Now with Table of Contents*
Also, wholey shit did I not expect this!
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PBaines got a reaction from sakthi in The Water Cooling Gallery
Here is my first WC rig I did when I was 15
This one I did when I was 16
About 6 months later, still 16 I did this one too
The most recent build here when I was 17.
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PBaines got a reaction from Tech_Dreamer in Custom Water Cooled Desk - 56k warning. Lotsa Pictures! *Now with Table of Contents*
Firstly though, Big thank you to my sponsors
Performance PCS
http://www.performance-pcs.com/
Mayhems Coolant
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/
Computer Lounge
http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/
Table of Contents
Update One Here
Update Two Here
Update Three Here
Update Four Here
Update Five Here
Update Six Here
Update Seven Here
Update Eight Here
Update Nine Here
Update Ten Here
Update Eleven Here
Update Twelve Here
Update Thirteen Here
Update Fourteen Here
So it begins!!
For those who wish to have a look at the sketchup model for this desk,
I have uploaded it to here
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97695353/desk%20final.skp
You can download Sketchup here if you do not have it
http://www.sketchup.com/download
Conceptual design
Here is what the timber looks like. Is native NZ Rimu. Please excuse the end one with the bird poo, that will be sanded off in due course. bloody sparrows in the shed >.<
Cut some of the pieces to length of 650, after everything has been glued together will refine the length to 600
Tools for the job. PVA glue, biscuits. annnd a... Biscuit cutter? (who cares about its real name biscuit cutter sounds cool)
As you can see, there is some light inbetween the boards, so a nice plane on areas will help close those gaps up
Some fellow putting the biscuits into their grooves after a nice layers of PVA Glue.
All clamped up, with some weights on the timber to stop it from setting wonky
This here is ONE side to the draw unit
Had to take the pieces to school and use the planer to make the edges all smooth, and to take any imperfections out
Here are the two horizontal supports for the desk, which the one on the left will be at the front as it has the toe bit on it. Sanded down with lovely wet and dry sandpaper to give it a baby smooth finish
This is what happens once you get a nice plane
drilling out the holes for the dowels to go in, 1mm larger then the dowel so that the glue sets better
Once all holes drilled its time to start gluing them in place, and setting everything up to be cramped together
Now she is cramped, the draw body is setting, and now it is time to make the draws them selves
Here are the draw fronts cut a little oversize just to be safe, not sanded or thicknessed or anything yet
My small wee thicknesser working its magic on the draw fronts, boy does this puppy make a mess!!
currently have two racks installed at the moment, start from the bottom and work your way up. Doing one at a time to make sure everything fits perfectly on the first time!
These are the draw sides, just some MDF which I will be painting matte black. Think it is somewhere around 12-13mm thick.
The box of which the draws will be just sitting there for a test fit, have to make sure that it sits on the sliders properly
And here are the sides and front/back for the two bottom draws going to school to get everything cut to length properly and use that lovely big planner (note to self, buy one of those big planners as they make life so much easier)
Bruce one of the pet lambs thought he would come up and see what's up. Was more interested in sticking his head in boxes around the shed though lol
Since the thicknesser I used at school had a few chips in the blade (GRRR) spent about an hour belt sanding the sides to make all the imperfections go away, belt was a 'used' 120 grit piece
Time to smoothen the sides up and then further make sure there are no ridges because you can certainly feel if there is anything wrong with a certain spot if the rest is smooth! This was I think around a 80 grit on a circular sander
After happy with the piece of timber, it was time to move to the 240 grit wet/dry. After 5 minutes of nice, slow and steady sanding. I can assure you that there was much pleasure in rubbing my hand around the timber... my GOD it is smooth.
So this is what it looked like before sanding
And this is what a few minutes of 240 grit wet/dry does
All the pieces have now been sanded down to get rid of all imperfections that I could
Sam and I discussing what to do next.
GOOD MAN SAM! That's right, have to have the aluminium rods for the 'files' to sit on
All cut to length and the ends filed down
All is well
both ends in, and the file fits. Looks like my measuring was correct
Sam now bored and reflecting on life as it is
Predrilling holes for the sides to be nailed to the Side of the FRONT/BACK
Both sides done
Add a line of glue for extra support
Straightened it up and nailed em all in!
Now to do the next side
Can't forget to add the rails in when putting the other side on!!
Predrilled the holes and put the nails in ready to smack em along the bottom.
Here is the draw unit in some decent light Still have to get the draw front on too.
Time to screw the rail sliders for the draw on. Firstly I pre drilled the hole with a very small drill bit, just to prevent any cracking of the MDF then in the screw goes!
Here is the bottom draw front, and after some 360 wet/dry. You can see the shiny'ness, it is so smooth
Since I cannot do any more draws till I get some more custom wood, thought I would be useful and get the other sides legs sorted. So found some nice pieces of more Rimu, which will be thicknessed down a bit, and will router the edges too
Ran them through the thicknesser, got hit in the face by a few flying chips. Lucky my safety glasses protected my eyes
So now both pieces are lovely and square/flat/straight
Time to clean up the mess made by thicknessing...
Clamping a bead across the front piece and the draw, to make sure that everything is lined up
All lined up, happy with it. Now let us screw it on!
The final result
Time to sort out the spacing between each draw, found the right packers.
Everything has been cut up to length and sanded down for the middle draw unit.
Let us commence the building!
Time to get the runners aligned and sorted too...
Getting the spacing sorted with the new packer, and then clamping and screwing again
Same as before of how to do the attach the front piece to the box
Only one left to do!
Here is my beast and the box of bits
Time to router the edges of the legs! Here are the two bits that I will be using (note: the big one is for the legs, the small one is for a bevel around the outside of the draws)
I hadn't used a router before, so got mum to show me how to do it,
We were left with a good result, nice smooth. lovely.
Now time to sand the edges down so that there isn't a "step" from the flat piece to the curve (above pic)
Routered the edge of the LEFT and RIGHT side of all the draws and the BOTTOM of the bottom draw.
Once I finished sanding the saw marks, the curve had kinda disappeared, no problems. Will re-router it again
The timber I am using is recycled stuff, so there are a few nail holes here and there. Clever trick, use the saw dust of the rimu that has been collected in the table saw bin and mix with PVA glue to make a nice formula that will fill in the holes, dry hard. and then be the most unnoticeable filler!
After the pva had dried, this is what we were left with
The chisel then got it off to a nice smooth finish that will get sanded down, it might not look perfect, but you can notice a hole in a timber from a mile away
Now it's time to get a piece of wood sorted for the side rail connecting the two legs together
Might as well get the back runner cut while I am here!
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PBaines got a reaction from godsarmy in The Water Cooling Gallery
Here is my first WC rig I did when I was 15
This one I did when I was 16
About 6 months later, still 16 I did this one too
The most recent build here when I was 17.
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PBaines got a reaction from JoaoPRSousa in Toyota Corolla 1979 KE30 - Build log *for some to enjoy*
100% off topic. But might be interesting to some.
From Desk to car, here is my latest project.
Bought me a KE30 that needs some doing up to get her perfect.
Plan is to drop a worked 4A-GE Blue top into it for some more power. Don't know when but at some stage the car has had a new worked 4K engine in it and maaan does it haul. Dragged off a 160hp Subaru Legacy! Though it guzzles down too much juice being twin carbey'd so the 4A-GE should give better fuel economy with a little more power.
Here are the trademe photos. Looks a lot nicer in those photos than it actually is!
And here we have the work that I have started on her!
Basically just the Bog, fixed the vinyl on the front door cards as some muppet didn't do it properly the first time. vinyl doesn't have enough over hang so had to staple it in pretty much.
Installed some component speakers. Wired in the new head unit.
Replaced original creme door arms, door window rollers and window handles with original black ones. Ones that were in there had been painted red and then eventually it had all scraped off so looked piss poor. Also too much red in the car need to spice it up with some black. Some more chrome bits would be nice too. Will definitely put some chrome side mirrors on it
Here we have an update.
Primed/painted rear wind screen cutout as had rust and when previous owner painted the car red they didn't mask around the wind screen seals properly so a green rim around the seal was clearly visible and my OCD was too troublesome.
Put new bucket seats in as getting in and out of the car was a pain due to the steering wheel. So got some reclinables that I find much better (though not as comfy as a fixed seat)
Time to fix up the left sill and other bits and pieces as the front and rear wind screens are in. Today I painted the sill, and a little bit on the back. Next task will be to clear coat it all which I will do in a few days Forgot to do the glovebox when I did the dash! Started bogging up and trying to get rid of all the cracks in the back of the bumper from previous owner who backed into a power pole. Gave it a coat of prime to clearly outline areas that still needed to be sanded down. After sanding for what seemed like forever I am happy with the result. Back now all painted, clear coated and buffed. Bumper back on. NOTE: Am going to get it chromed, and get new tail lights on the bumper. But am a lot happier with how it is looking at the moment. Chroming the bumper will be at the end of the list of things to do, will get the 4AGE dropped in it first. . Have been quite busy lately. Have sort of come to a halt with work on the car as I am spending time rebuilding the 4AGE. Stripping the engine down It was clear that it had a blown head gasket, and probably ran low on oil for a while. Decided it was best to replace the bottom end and main bearings. Full gasket and also piston rings too as well as doing a hone. So this will basically be a brand new 4AGE once it is done. Also got the cams ground down at Kiwi Cams. They did a cut that they always do on stock ECU 4AGE's that go mint so will see how they go. Powerband from 2500rpm up and a slightly aggressive idle. Received my central locking kit in the mail which I have eagerly been waiting for. it is not till you don't have central locking do you realise what a pain in the arse it is. Getting the kit mounted on Also got my new tail lights which look 100x times better. Went for a nice drive down a gravel road too. It was 30 minutes of joy I assure you. Cannot wait to put a hilux diff in this with an LSD Cam sheet for anyone interested Time to start the motor. Taking pics of every angle so I know exactly where things go just in case. Even though I have a good idea anyway. After it was stripped down I got some citrus based degreaser to clean the block up a bit. Has come up very nice. Also that plate got bent in shipping to my place but will sort that obviously. Getting the crank pulley off. Should have used a breaker bar but the only 6 point socket I had was 1/2" and my powerbuilt sett is 3/8" Will get more pics up of the process of getting the new bearings etc
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PBaines got a reaction from JoshM in Toyota Corolla 1979 KE30 - Build log *for some to enjoy*
So it's been quite busy for me in the past few months. And they were not exactly trouble free months either!
Firstly an overcharging alternator at the 'Hanmer Meet' which blew all my relays and destroyed my little tacho circuitry. Resulting in an unexpected weeks stay in CHCH (which turned out to be awesome, expensive... but awesome)
But now we have her up and running sweet. Just need a new diff head because my one has a slightly bent pinion but that's not a biggie.
She drives like a dream and has a big power increase over the ol' 4K
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PBaines got a reaction from DigitalHermit in Toyota Corolla 1979 KE30 - Build log *for some to enjoy*
100% off topic. But might be interesting to some.
From Desk to car, here is my latest project.
Bought me a KE30 that needs some doing up to get her perfect.
Plan is to drop a worked 4A-GE Blue top into it for some more power. Don't know when but at some stage the car has had a new worked 4K engine in it and maaan does it haul. Dragged off a 160hp Subaru Legacy! Though it guzzles down too much juice being twin carbey'd so the 4A-GE should give better fuel economy with a little more power.
Here are the trademe photos. Looks a lot nicer in those photos than it actually is!
And here we have the work that I have started on her!
Basically just the Bog, fixed the vinyl on the front door cards as some muppet didn't do it properly the first time. vinyl doesn't have enough over hang so had to staple it in pretty much.
Installed some component speakers. Wired in the new head unit.
Replaced original creme door arms, door window rollers and window handles with original black ones. Ones that were in there had been painted red and then eventually it had all scraped off so looked piss poor. Also too much red in the car need to spice it up with some black. Some more chrome bits would be nice too. Will definitely put some chrome side mirrors on it
Here we have an update.
Primed/painted rear wind screen cutout as had rust and when previous owner painted the car red they didn't mask around the wind screen seals properly so a green rim around the seal was clearly visible and my OCD was too troublesome.
Put new bucket seats in as getting in and out of the car was a pain due to the steering wheel. So got some reclinables that I find much better (though not as comfy as a fixed seat)
Time to fix up the left sill and other bits and pieces as the front and rear wind screens are in. Today I painted the sill, and a little bit on the back. Next task will be to clear coat it all which I will do in a few days Forgot to do the glovebox when I did the dash! Started bogging up and trying to get rid of all the cracks in the back of the bumper from previous owner who backed into a power pole. Gave it a coat of prime to clearly outline areas that still needed to be sanded down. After sanding for what seemed like forever I am happy with the result. Back now all painted, clear coated and buffed. Bumper back on. NOTE: Am going to get it chromed, and get new tail lights on the bumper. But am a lot happier with how it is looking at the moment. Chroming the bumper will be at the end of the list of things to do, will get the 4AGE dropped in it first. . Have been quite busy lately. Have sort of come to a halt with work on the car as I am spending time rebuilding the 4AGE. Stripping the engine down It was clear that it had a blown head gasket, and probably ran low on oil for a while. Decided it was best to replace the bottom end and main bearings. Full gasket and also piston rings too as well as doing a hone. So this will basically be a brand new 4AGE once it is done. Also got the cams ground down at Kiwi Cams. They did a cut that they always do on stock ECU 4AGE's that go mint so will see how they go. Powerband from 2500rpm up and a slightly aggressive idle. Received my central locking kit in the mail which I have eagerly been waiting for. it is not till you don't have central locking do you realise what a pain in the arse it is. Getting the kit mounted on Also got my new tail lights which look 100x times better. Went for a nice drive down a gravel road too. It was 30 minutes of joy I assure you. Cannot wait to put a hilux diff in this with an LSD Cam sheet for anyone interested Time to start the motor. Taking pics of every angle so I know exactly where things go just in case. Even though I have a good idea anyway. After it was stripped down I got some citrus based degreaser to clean the block up a bit. Has come up very nice. Also that plate got bent in shipping to my place but will sort that obviously. Getting the crank pulley off. Should have used a breaker bar but the only 6 point socket I had was 1/2" and my powerbuilt sett is 3/8" Will get more pics up of the process of getting the new bearings etc
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PBaines got a reaction from connorpiper in Toyota Corolla 1979 KE30 - Build log *for some to enjoy*
100% off topic. But might be interesting to some.
From Desk to car, here is my latest project.
Bought me a KE30 that needs some doing up to get her perfect.
Plan is to drop a worked 4A-GE Blue top into it for some more power. Don't know when but at some stage the car has had a new worked 4K engine in it and maaan does it haul. Dragged off a 160hp Subaru Legacy! Though it guzzles down too much juice being twin carbey'd so the 4A-GE should give better fuel economy with a little more power.
Here are the trademe photos. Looks a lot nicer in those photos than it actually is!
And here we have the work that I have started on her!
Basically just the Bog, fixed the vinyl on the front door cards as some muppet didn't do it properly the first time. vinyl doesn't have enough over hang so had to staple it in pretty much.
Installed some component speakers. Wired in the new head unit.
Replaced original creme door arms, door window rollers and window handles with original black ones. Ones that were in there had been painted red and then eventually it had all scraped off so looked piss poor. Also too much red in the car need to spice it up with some black. Some more chrome bits would be nice too. Will definitely put some chrome side mirrors on it
Here we have an update.
Primed/painted rear wind screen cutout as had rust and when previous owner painted the car red they didn't mask around the wind screen seals properly so a green rim around the seal was clearly visible and my OCD was too troublesome.
Put new bucket seats in as getting in and out of the car was a pain due to the steering wheel. So got some reclinables that I find much better (though not as comfy as a fixed seat)
Time to fix up the left sill and other bits and pieces as the front and rear wind screens are in. Today I painted the sill, and a little bit on the back. Next task will be to clear coat it all which I will do in a few days Forgot to do the glovebox when I did the dash! Started bogging up and trying to get rid of all the cracks in the back of the bumper from previous owner who backed into a power pole. Gave it a coat of prime to clearly outline areas that still needed to be sanded down. After sanding for what seemed like forever I am happy with the result. Back now all painted, clear coated and buffed. Bumper back on. NOTE: Am going to get it chromed, and get new tail lights on the bumper. But am a lot happier with how it is looking at the moment. Chroming the bumper will be at the end of the list of things to do, will get the 4AGE dropped in it first. . Have been quite busy lately. Have sort of come to a halt with work on the car as I am spending time rebuilding the 4AGE. Stripping the engine down It was clear that it had a blown head gasket, and probably ran low on oil for a while. Decided it was best to replace the bottom end and main bearings. Full gasket and also piston rings too as well as doing a hone. So this will basically be a brand new 4AGE once it is done. Also got the cams ground down at Kiwi Cams. They did a cut that they always do on stock ECU 4AGE's that go mint so will see how they go. Powerband from 2500rpm up and a slightly aggressive idle. Received my central locking kit in the mail which I have eagerly been waiting for. it is not till you don't have central locking do you realise what a pain in the arse it is. Getting the kit mounted on Also got my new tail lights which look 100x times better. Went for a nice drive down a gravel road too. It was 30 minutes of joy I assure you. Cannot wait to put a hilux diff in this with an LSD Cam sheet for anyone interested Time to start the motor. Taking pics of every angle so I know exactly where things go just in case. Even though I have a good idea anyway. After it was stripped down I got some citrus based degreaser to clean the block up a bit. Has come up very nice. Also that plate got bent in shipping to my place but will sort that obviously. Getting the crank pulley off. Should have used a breaker bar but the only 6 point socket I had was 1/2" and my powerbuilt sett is 3/8" Will get more pics up of the process of getting the new bearings etc
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PBaines got a reaction from levsingh in do i need this if i am using distilled water?
Yes, Biocice will prevent Algae growth. It is cheap enough to get. I personally use the Mayhems stuff. You could run it for a few months before anything happened but I would rather have a few drops of biocide just for the ease of mind.
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PBaines got a reaction from Alec Harpers in Custom Water Cooled Desk - 56k warning. Lotsa Pictures! *Now with Table of Contents*
what we first start off with is making some guideline holes so that we are able to do better cuts with the jigsaw allowing us to change angles easily.
Mid way cutting.
now time to lay it on, and all is good.
a wild cat appears! "hmmmm, can i fit through here?"
"Why yes! of course I can!"
marking out the other side, and repeating the process
both sides have been completed and look very nice. they are BOTH yet to be routered so that the grill sits in flush. but that is next days off job.
I quickly decided that I would do my 5.25" holes, one for a Blu Ray drive (basically just incase i need it for whatever case. And no, I couldn't be bothered getting a USB one), and also will be fitted with a Fan Controller too.
Here is the plan...
Holes done
all cut out
with a bit of extra little rasping (wood equivalent of a file) they fit nice and snug! Though like the rad grills. Will router a recess for them to sit flush in. If some may notice, the drives are sitting lower then centre, this is because I will probably put my power/reset buttons above the 5.25" area.
and ps, yes I know the middle piece between each 5.25" slot is weak as hell, and I understand that. If it breaks it breaks, if it doesn't it doesn't! it looks nicer with it though
Oh, and this is the glass installed
easy to remove to, simply put fingers between the two glass sheets and lift the top one up! the front bit is siliconed in place
Next update will be Wednesday of everything routered
and then theres only two holes left to do (PSU, I/O shield) and its time to d-d-d-d-d-drop the hardware in!!
Here is how I will be spacing my UP7 to the desk itself. just a few rubber spacers, that will be screwed into the desk, will have to go find some nice long thin srews while I think about it!
We start with the routering of the 480 grill rebate, so that the grill can sit nice and flush
The middle bits had to be done also, and were very difficult too as after a few cm's the router wasn't sitting flush anymore so would 'dip' as you can see in the picture where it dipped a little bit. but that's okay! it's not seen
Thinking about how I could find a packer to use that allowed an extra bit of width... duh, why not use the template to rest the router on!
Now, this is what it looked like! the rebate for the grill was done, and also i further rebated in a rectangle for the actual little hex-hole grills to sit in too
Then there was about a 2 week period where I did nothing in life but work/sleep. UNTIL my parts arrived! and I will also be getting another GTX 680 4GB too
After thinking and googling, I figured a way that I could mount my power supply tidily, by making a metal template I guess you'd call it. where you would screw the thin sheet steel to the desk so you could then be able to screw the psu in!
And then there she was. the template to cut out the... template :B
Mid way cutting it out, realised I shouldn't have cut the paper up so much as it was so hard to get the small rectangle square again!
And there it is. Not the tidiest and 100% most beautiful, but it will be painted, not seen. It will serve the purpose it was made to do _b
Time to mark out where the IO shield will be put, and also where my PSU hole will be too.
Time to do my preliminary guide holes for the jigsaw
And there it is, all nice and square!
The PSU Template works well too
Now, the one thing that bugged me the most... The PCI holes. How do do them? Do I rebate them? Do I cut out one big hole instead? I will do it individually instead and rebate me thinks..
I then proceeded to use the smallest router bit I had and rebate the groove for the PCI brackets to sit in.
Also, the top L piece of the bracket needed somewhere to sit in, so I marked the lowest point the bracket could sit, otherwise the card when in the motherboard will be on a lean and could have a dodgy connection to the PCI/E Lane
Making sure my depth was correct, I used a test bit of wood to make sure that when it came to the final piece, it was done properly.
A Perfect fit!
Just a FYI, to prevent any scratching this is how I lay the top down to do any cutting/routering etc
Now that the first PCI slots had been cut, it was time to finish the rest off
Here is how I measured the spacings for where the slots went, just an old case I chopped up!
All cuts done
Next, to square all the holes out I figured, what better way to do that, than with a Router! Least that's what I thought. The insertion of the bit went well, as soon as I itched it to the right BOOM. the middle piece of the PCI slots just snapped off.. I said a naughty word beginning with F. the next one began with C. hehe
It was time to resort to Plan B. Cut the whole damn thing out and chop the PCI bracket bit out of that old case that was in the pic above
it looks a lot tidier this way anyway, so while I am not happy the slot snapped out, I am happy with the result I guess!
So after cutting the PCI Bracket out, i gave it a quick sand and a quick paint with orange and will continue to polish it up over the next week but just wanted to test it out for the time being to make sure all was well... Guess I was just impatient and wanted to see if when everything was laid out in the desk it would all look pretty is more appropriate
PS- Hello Vita! (sheep)
After the day, I moved everything to it's little box. and covered it. Until tomorrow
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PBaines got a reaction from MrJakePrince in Custom Water Cooled Desk - 56k warning. Lotsa Pictures! *Now with Table of Contents*
Hello my fellow Kiwi's, thank you for the kind words :)
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PBaines got a reaction from MrJakePrince in Custom Water Cooled Desk - 56k warning. Lotsa Pictures! *Now with Table of Contents*
Firstly though, Big thank you to my sponsors
Performance PCS
http://www.performance-pcs.com/
Mayhems Coolant
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/
Computer Lounge
http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/
Table of Contents
Update One Here
Update Two Here
Update Three Here
Update Four Here
Update Five Here
Update Six Here
Update Seven Here
Update Eight Here
Update Nine Here
Update Ten Here
Update Eleven Here
Update Twelve Here
Update Thirteen Here
Update Fourteen Here
So it begins!!
For those who wish to have a look at the sketchup model for this desk,
I have uploaded it to here
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97695353/desk%20final.skp
You can download Sketchup here if you do not have it
http://www.sketchup.com/download
Conceptual design
Here is what the timber looks like. Is native NZ Rimu. Please excuse the end one with the bird poo, that will be sanded off in due course. bloody sparrows in the shed >.<
Cut some of the pieces to length of 650, after everything has been glued together will refine the length to 600
Tools for the job. PVA glue, biscuits. annnd a... Biscuit cutter? (who cares about its real name biscuit cutter sounds cool)
As you can see, there is some light inbetween the boards, so a nice plane on areas will help close those gaps up
Some fellow putting the biscuits into their grooves after a nice layers of PVA Glue.
All clamped up, with some weights on the timber to stop it from setting wonky
This here is ONE side to the draw unit
Had to take the pieces to school and use the planer to make the edges all smooth, and to take any imperfections out
Here are the two horizontal supports for the desk, which the one on the left will be at the front as it has the toe bit on it. Sanded down with lovely wet and dry sandpaper to give it a baby smooth finish
This is what happens once you get a nice plane
drilling out the holes for the dowels to go in, 1mm larger then the dowel so that the glue sets better
Once all holes drilled its time to start gluing them in place, and setting everything up to be cramped together
Now she is cramped, the draw body is setting, and now it is time to make the draws them selves
Here are the draw fronts cut a little oversize just to be safe, not sanded or thicknessed or anything yet
My small wee thicknesser working its magic on the draw fronts, boy does this puppy make a mess!!
currently have two racks installed at the moment, start from the bottom and work your way up. Doing one at a time to make sure everything fits perfectly on the first time!
These are the draw sides, just some MDF which I will be painting matte black. Think it is somewhere around 12-13mm thick.
The box of which the draws will be just sitting there for a test fit, have to make sure that it sits on the sliders properly
And here are the sides and front/back for the two bottom draws going to school to get everything cut to length properly and use that lovely big planner (note to self, buy one of those big planners as they make life so much easier)
Bruce one of the pet lambs thought he would come up and see what's up. Was more interested in sticking his head in boxes around the shed though lol
Since the thicknesser I used at school had a few chips in the blade (GRRR) spent about an hour belt sanding the sides to make all the imperfections go away, belt was a 'used' 120 grit piece
Time to smoothen the sides up and then further make sure there are no ridges because you can certainly feel if there is anything wrong with a certain spot if the rest is smooth! This was I think around a 80 grit on a circular sander
After happy with the piece of timber, it was time to move to the 240 grit wet/dry. After 5 minutes of nice, slow and steady sanding. I can assure you that there was much pleasure in rubbing my hand around the timber... my GOD it is smooth.
So this is what it looked like before sanding
And this is what a few minutes of 240 grit wet/dry does
All the pieces have now been sanded down to get rid of all imperfections that I could
Sam and I discussing what to do next.
GOOD MAN SAM! That's right, have to have the aluminium rods for the 'files' to sit on
All cut to length and the ends filed down
All is well
both ends in, and the file fits. Looks like my measuring was correct
Sam now bored and reflecting on life as it is
Predrilling holes for the sides to be nailed to the Side of the FRONT/BACK
Both sides done
Add a line of glue for extra support
Straightened it up and nailed em all in!
Now to do the next side
Can't forget to add the rails in when putting the other side on!!
Predrilled the holes and put the nails in ready to smack em along the bottom.
Here is the draw unit in some decent light Still have to get the draw front on too.
Time to screw the rail sliders for the draw on. Firstly I pre drilled the hole with a very small drill bit, just to prevent any cracking of the MDF then in the screw goes!
Here is the bottom draw front, and after some 360 wet/dry. You can see the shiny'ness, it is so smooth
Since I cannot do any more draws till I get some more custom wood, thought I would be useful and get the other sides legs sorted. So found some nice pieces of more Rimu, which will be thicknessed down a bit, and will router the edges too
Ran them through the thicknesser, got hit in the face by a few flying chips. Lucky my safety glasses protected my eyes
So now both pieces are lovely and square/flat/straight
Time to clean up the mess made by thicknessing...
Clamping a bead across the front piece and the draw, to make sure that everything is lined up
All lined up, happy with it. Now let us screw it on!
The final result
Time to sort out the spacing between each draw, found the right packers.
Everything has been cut up to length and sanded down for the middle draw unit.
Let us commence the building!
Time to get the runners aligned and sorted too...
Getting the spacing sorted with the new packer, and then clamping and screwing again
Same as before of how to do the attach the front piece to the box
Only one left to do!
Here is my beast and the box of bits
Time to router the edges of the legs! Here are the two bits that I will be using (note: the big one is for the legs, the small one is for a bevel around the outside of the draws)
I hadn't used a router before, so got mum to show me how to do it,
We were left with a good result, nice smooth. lovely.
Now time to sand the edges down so that there isn't a "step" from the flat piece to the curve (above pic)
Routered the edge of the LEFT and RIGHT side of all the draws and the BOTTOM of the bottom draw.
Once I finished sanding the saw marks, the curve had kinda disappeared, no problems. Will re-router it again
The timber I am using is recycled stuff, so there are a few nail holes here and there. Clever trick, use the saw dust of the rimu that has been collected in the table saw bin and mix with PVA glue to make a nice formula that will fill in the holes, dry hard. and then be the most unnoticeable filler!
After the pva had dried, this is what we were left with
The chisel then got it off to a nice smooth finish that will get sanded down, it might not look perfect, but you can notice a hole in a timber from a mile away
Now it's time to get a piece of wood sorted for the side rail connecting the two legs together
Might as well get the back runner cut while I am here!
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PBaines got a reaction from GhostWindGamer in Toyota Corolla 1979 KE30 - Build log *for some to enjoy*
Cheers lads, will get a few more photo's shortly. Am coming to a completion of the project, and am very much looking forward to starting on the next! Then it will be time to uncover the old watercooled desk and remaster that. If only money grey and trees and time was endless
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PBaines got a reaction from rambi36 in Toyota Corolla 1979 KE30 - Build log *for some to enjoy*
100% off topic. But might be interesting to some.
From Desk to car, here is my latest project.
Bought me a KE30 that needs some doing up to get her perfect.
Plan is to drop a worked 4A-GE Blue top into it for some more power. Don't know when but at some stage the car has had a new worked 4K engine in it and maaan does it haul. Dragged off a 160hp Subaru Legacy! Though it guzzles down too much juice being twin carbey'd so the 4A-GE should give better fuel economy with a little more power.
Here are the trademe photos. Looks a lot nicer in those photos than it actually is!
And here we have the work that I have started on her!
Basically just the Bog, fixed the vinyl on the front door cards as some muppet didn't do it properly the first time. vinyl doesn't have enough over hang so had to staple it in pretty much.
Installed some component speakers. Wired in the new head unit.
Replaced original creme door arms, door window rollers and window handles with original black ones. Ones that were in there had been painted red and then eventually it had all scraped off so looked piss poor. Also too much red in the car need to spice it up with some black. Some more chrome bits would be nice too. Will definitely put some chrome side mirrors on it
Here we have an update.
Primed/painted rear wind screen cutout as had rust and when previous owner painted the car red they didn't mask around the wind screen seals properly so a green rim around the seal was clearly visible and my OCD was too troublesome.
Put new bucket seats in as getting in and out of the car was a pain due to the steering wheel. So got some reclinables that I find much better (though not as comfy as a fixed seat)
Time to fix up the left sill and other bits and pieces as the front and rear wind screens are in. Today I painted the sill, and a little bit on the back. Next task will be to clear coat it all which I will do in a few days Forgot to do the glovebox when I did the dash! Started bogging up and trying to get rid of all the cracks in the back of the bumper from previous owner who backed into a power pole. Gave it a coat of prime to clearly outline areas that still needed to be sanded down. After sanding for what seemed like forever I am happy with the result. Back now all painted, clear coated and buffed. Bumper back on. NOTE: Am going to get it chromed, and get new tail lights on the bumper. But am a lot happier with how it is looking at the moment. Chroming the bumper will be at the end of the list of things to do, will get the 4AGE dropped in it first. . Have been quite busy lately. Have sort of come to a halt with work on the car as I am spending time rebuilding the 4AGE. Stripping the engine down It was clear that it had a blown head gasket, and probably ran low on oil for a while. Decided it was best to replace the bottom end and main bearings. Full gasket and also piston rings too as well as doing a hone. So this will basically be a brand new 4AGE once it is done. Also got the cams ground down at Kiwi Cams. They did a cut that they always do on stock ECU 4AGE's that go mint so will see how they go. Powerband from 2500rpm up and a slightly aggressive idle. Received my central locking kit in the mail which I have eagerly been waiting for. it is not till you don't have central locking do you realise what a pain in the arse it is. Getting the kit mounted on Also got my new tail lights which look 100x times better. Went for a nice drive down a gravel road too. It was 30 minutes of joy I assure you. Cannot wait to put a hilux diff in this with an LSD Cam sheet for anyone interested Time to start the motor. Taking pics of every angle so I know exactly where things go just in case. Even though I have a good idea anyway. After it was stripped down I got some citrus based degreaser to clean the block up a bit. Has come up very nice. Also that plate got bent in shipping to my place but will sort that obviously. Getting the crank pulley off. Should have used a breaker bar but the only 6 point socket I had was 1/2" and my powerbuilt sett is 3/8" Will get more pics up of the process of getting the new bearings etc
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PBaines got a reaction from AdmiralGeneralPauleyD in Toyota Corolla 1979 KE30 - Build log *for some to enjoy*
100% off topic. But might be interesting to some.
From Desk to car, here is my latest project.
Bought me a KE30 that needs some doing up to get her perfect.
Plan is to drop a worked 4A-GE Blue top into it for some more power. Don't know when but at some stage the car has had a new worked 4K engine in it and maaan does it haul. Dragged off a 160hp Subaru Legacy! Though it guzzles down too much juice being twin carbey'd so the 4A-GE should give better fuel economy with a little more power.
Here are the trademe photos. Looks a lot nicer in those photos than it actually is!
And here we have the work that I have started on her!
Basically just the Bog, fixed the vinyl on the front door cards as some muppet didn't do it properly the first time. vinyl doesn't have enough over hang so had to staple it in pretty much.
Installed some component speakers. Wired in the new head unit.
Replaced original creme door arms, door window rollers and window handles with original black ones. Ones that were in there had been painted red and then eventually it had all scraped off so looked piss poor. Also too much red in the car need to spice it up with some black. Some more chrome bits would be nice too. Will definitely put some chrome side mirrors on it
Here we have an update.
Primed/painted rear wind screen cutout as had rust and when previous owner painted the car red they didn't mask around the wind screen seals properly so a green rim around the seal was clearly visible and my OCD was too troublesome.
Put new bucket seats in as getting in and out of the car was a pain due to the steering wheel. So got some reclinables that I find much better (though not as comfy as a fixed seat)
Time to fix up the left sill and other bits and pieces as the front and rear wind screens are in. Today I painted the sill, and a little bit on the back. Next task will be to clear coat it all which I will do in a few days Forgot to do the glovebox when I did the dash! Started bogging up and trying to get rid of all the cracks in the back of the bumper from previous owner who backed into a power pole. Gave it a coat of prime to clearly outline areas that still needed to be sanded down. After sanding for what seemed like forever I am happy with the result. Back now all painted, clear coated and buffed. Bumper back on. NOTE: Am going to get it chromed, and get new tail lights on the bumper. But am a lot happier with how it is looking at the moment. Chroming the bumper will be at the end of the list of things to do, will get the 4AGE dropped in it first. . Have been quite busy lately. Have sort of come to a halt with work on the car as I am spending time rebuilding the 4AGE. Stripping the engine down It was clear that it had a blown head gasket, and probably ran low on oil for a while. Decided it was best to replace the bottom end and main bearings. Full gasket and also piston rings too as well as doing a hone. So this will basically be a brand new 4AGE once it is done. Also got the cams ground down at Kiwi Cams. They did a cut that they always do on stock ECU 4AGE's that go mint so will see how they go. Powerband from 2500rpm up and a slightly aggressive idle. Received my central locking kit in the mail which I have eagerly been waiting for. it is not till you don't have central locking do you realise what a pain in the arse it is. Getting the kit mounted on Also got my new tail lights which look 100x times better. Went for a nice drive down a gravel road too. It was 30 minutes of joy I assure you. Cannot wait to put a hilux diff in this with an LSD Cam sheet for anyone interested Time to start the motor. Taking pics of every angle so I know exactly where things go just in case. Even though I have a good idea anyway. After it was stripped down I got some citrus based degreaser to clean the block up a bit. Has come up very nice. Also that plate got bent in shipping to my place but will sort that obviously. Getting the crank pulley off. Should have used a breaker bar but the only 6 point socket I had was 1/2" and my powerbuilt sett is 3/8" Will get more pics up of the process of getting the new bearings etc
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PBaines got a reaction from ofr057 in Toyota Corolla 1979 KE30 - Build log *for some to enjoy*
The 4K that was in there was actually really quick... I would estimate around 90hp?
It was keeping up with a 2L 140-150HP TX5 Telstar for the first 3 gears.
Light cars are awesome!
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PBaines got a reaction from Levent in Toyota Corolla 1979 KE30 - Build log *for some to enjoy*
So been a bit of progression. It was down at the electricians getting all the loom wired up which took a couple of days.
Also the water outlet/inlet needed to be modified as the thermostat bypass was corroded so water would have leaked everywhere pretty much, so get them welded over and drilled some holes in the thermostat to allow a small amount of water to flow through till the thermostat opens.
Also got my driveshaft back which fits nicely
Topped up the Diff with some LSD oil, and also the Gearbox.
Just need to do the new fuel line and clutch assembly (master/slave cylinder and line etc)
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PBaines got a reaction from Purplehazeffc in Custom Water Cooled Desk - 56k warning. Lotsa Pictures! *Now with Table of Contents*
The original intention of the change of coolant colour was to match it to "Gigabyte Orange". That I have done 100%. It's just the MDPC-X Sleeve that doesn't match so perfectly but still, to me personally I love it way more
ps- This is not a speedtest thread, please post no more.
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PBaines got a reaction from witting in Custom Water Cooled Desk - 56k warning. Lotsa Pictures! *Now with Table of Contents*
Finally, 1/2 of my PPCS order! (2/2 is the BP fittings)
So in this we have: x2 Heatkiller GTX680 Blocks x1 Heatkiller 1155 CPU Block x1 XSPC UP7 Motherboard Block x1 Legion Fan controller x2 Vandal Switches (For power/ reset) x1 Vandal Switch plate for the switches to sit in After getting over my excitement, starting sorting out the attachment brackets to hold the back ledge on Got the drill out with a small drill bit, 2.5mm I think it was to predrill the screw holes
... That one screw that had to be a flat head... ***** Some how forgot to take a picture of the final result! Will get that uploaded in the next update ***** So it was time to now move the desk to my room, and assemble the top unit to the draws and legs. TO do this there are two dry dowel fittings just to align everything for screwing, unfortunately I drilled too far and one dowel popped through.. No worries though. This is the top left inside of the draw unit, behind draws so will not be visible! Besides, all it is there to do is make things easier when coming to assembling and disassembling. To screw the bottom and side rail to the underside of the top unit, I flipped the everything upside down and drilled a hole on an angle. Starting with the first incision to make a hole so we can essentially turn the drill 160 degrees without it slipping down the wood getting more on an angle And finally going straight down at this angle And all screws have been successfully screwed in holding everything in place! Though I will be adding an L bracket holding the front leg and the bottom of the lid, just for security as a thick L bracket is 10x stronger than any amount of screws Speaking of screws, I sourced out the screws that I will be using for the rad's, lotsa these! Two boxes arrived at my house from which contained my speakers and fans I will be using. Which may I add was very well packaged! I went with the Microlab Solo 6C's because of their wooden carcase, and I have heard many positive reviews about these. I now just have to find a place for them..
On to the next box! Containing 5 Twin packets of the SP120 silent edition Corsair fans, and also a Twin pack of the AF120 silent edition fans also. I went with these because of the Static Pressure they create, and also how silent they are. I will only be running my desk in a PULL on the first rad and PUSH on the second. I do not think I need to have push/pull on both rads, as I want to make this thing as silent as possible. With 2 480 Monsta rads, even with a pull on one and a push on the other. It will still all be overkill in terms of cooling potential with the rads as 2 680's, a CPU and Motherboard wouldn't come close to reaching peak performance of the rads. Also the rads look nice at them from the grill. On the following day I received a shipment from PPCS, which contained 2 Heatkiller 680 back plates which I forgot to order in the previous one.. and 90% of my fittings (70 in total in this order) and slipped through customs without paying an Import Tax which I am more than happy about! I all ready ripped them all open and started planning out the loop, so left some of the fittings I had joined together as that will be how they are set Now that everything was finally settling down and the desk is all setup. It was time to finally put a few blocks on components. This update will be for my UP7 with its motherboard block and cpu block too.
Putting the thermal pads, and also two small drops of Arctic Silver 5 that I have been using for a long time And all screwed on! Might look at doing something about the XSPC logo on the block, would rather it be all black for preference Next up, the Heatkiller CPU block. Boy it looks epic.. Pea size amount of thermal paste Once I put it on I cut a piece of my crystal link tubing to length and connected the two blocks together. The CPU block, UP7 Block and the Dominator RAM really work well together! -
PBaines got a reaction from Sadistic_Potato in Custom Water Cooled Desk - 56k warning. Lotsa Pictures! *Now with Table of Contents*
So yeah.. my UP7 died Was pretty pissed, this loop isn't the easiest thing to drain
But here is how it works,
With the tap fitting on the right of the res I just put some tube and that goes down the back which goes into a jug.
Once as much water as possible has drained I then use my other tap here, which is on the side of the radiator to blow the water out. This tap is also used for filling, I open it up when filling as it allows the loop to fill up with as less air as possible, and also lets me continuously fill it without having air bubbles blow up the tube.
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about 2 weeks after this had passed I had gotten my UP7 back and was ready to start the loop again.
However I wanted to do something about my 3770K. Mine is a pretty shit one, and can barely get stable at 4.4ghz and pumps out a shit ton of heat.
So, I delidded it, (vice method) and will be running it with no lid. to maximize cooling potential.
I set up the tubing again, and set my handy towels up. And yes, that is the old coolant there.
Mixing up the coolant, here is a shot comparing the MDPC-X Orange to the Pastel Orange
After about 55 drops of yellow dye, we got this colour, though not matching the MDPC-X sleeving, it is a pretty perfect colour to the Gigabyte Orange
And a crop photo comparing them (new colour on the right)
I started to fill the loop back up, and instantly saw a clear difference between the old coolant in the left res, and the new in the right. Hope it is clear in the photo's
The stickers on the side AF120 fans were upside down, though I should make those the right way around
Here are is the new loop. Looks great!
With the NZXT Led kit, it will be powered by a Fan header. Did this in an old build and never had any problems.
Here is full shot of the desk, the top draw is missing because it no longer fits. Why is that? well, I found that the desk was a bit too tall for my liking, so I took about 8cm off off it
So took 8cm off of the legs, and off of the draw carcass (got my mum to do the carcass for my while I was at uni so no pics off that bit) and will have to cut down the draw size to get it back in there. It'll be my pen draw
Checking to make sure that the LED's are working (will get a night photo out tonight probably)
Thought I would show a size photo just to give some prospective. NOTE: I will not be using the top of the desk for my keyboard/mouse I will be making a keyboard tray this week some time (still have to figure out I will do it too) this photo was just for prospective.