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I reset the OC (It's always been stable, at least during Premeire Renders) and paused Folding. It clocked down to 135mhz and when I started it again, it went back to 405. It's like it's capped there. Here's another screenshot, with more graphs/charts.

Hi, I have a 5820k and a 750ti, and I was seeing around 130k PPD from both of them (combined), but recently, my numbers have dropped and I'm only getting 30-60k PPD. I figured out that my GPU clock is stuck at 405mhz (at 100%), not my ~1400 oc. This is really slowing the whole process down. Here is a screenshot. Any suggestions/ideas? Thanks!

Ok. I'll call SuperBiiz today. Thanks!

Hey I got a i7 5820k ~1.5 months ago from SuperBiiz (actual reputable retailer) and according to Intel, I qualify to get free games and software from Intel since I bought one of their CPUs. I looked in/on my CPU box and couldn't find a Master Key, and SuperBiiz didn't send me one, sooooooo. I talked to Intel and Superbiiz and Intel sent me to SB and SB send me back to Intel, so IDK what to do now. Any ideas? Thanks! P.S. Heres a line of smileys to make you feel better :lol: B) :rolleyes:

No No No! Don't listen to them! It's something called mSATA or miniPCIE or something like that. Get the thing BELOW! This would work Edit: Even better works in m.2 slot converter thing

If your not a speed freak like me, just get a extender with good reviews, WIRELESS AC, and external antennas Even better, get a power line adapter+ a good AC router.

Yeah, If you run them on the same network, the will work fine. It's just for what. I would use the NEWEST Extreme/Time Capsule you have as the router. This is important because the router is where all of your WiFi starts out and the newer the better so use the newest device for the router. The other two devices can be run off of the router as extenders, Time Capsules, whatever. It's totally fine. My parents have a new Extreme acting as a router, an older extreme acting as a TimeCapsule (with a external HDD) and two Expresses' acting as extenders. It seems to work fine for their house.

I have a K70 (blues, Non RGB) that I painted white (the top metal panel) so it has this really nice white metal finish. It also has back-lit pbt keycaps (white) from Vortex. I also have a JD40 40% in Cherry clears that I use for travel w/ "ninja" print blacl Pbt keycaps.

Oh really? Maybe I got a bad unit of the Seidon. You could always get a NH-L12. Sorry for being such a fanboy. And for what the others say, I'd still get a Xeon. Edit: You do cad: Get the e3 1271v3

Ok. I have has lots of experience with Xeons in the past and they are amazing. They never crash, never BSOD. They are a dream to work with. YES! GET A XEON! Just make sure that you install your new GPU and install drivers before installing the Xeon. Xeon's don't have integrated GPUs so you might have a problem with video output if your drivers aren't installed. The 1241v3 is plenty for gaming so the 1271v3 is just a waste of money if your only gaming. If your doing content creation, something else, yes the 1271v3 is worth it. Speaking of the cooler.... Get a Noctua NH-U9s, U12s, U14s, much better and quieter than any Seidon. Seidon's are loud, inefficient and overpriced IMO. Xeons are rated for 24/7/365 operation, so if you want to so some server hosting in games or something that requires for you CPU to be stressed 24/7 the Xeon is it. I had dual Xeon e5's in a client's server and he ran them at 100% usage 24/7/365 for 4 years straight and hasn't had a problem yet (x5690s)

It's all Adata XPG Z1. I cycled the ram through all of the slots and it all works fine. The problem is that I can install all 16gb. It won't boot or only 8gb is recognized. It's sort of like 2 of the slots are broken, or the CPU mem controller isn't working

It's decent, what I used to use in-fact, but you can get better. If you found it on sale, or have a tube laying around, go ahead, but I'd get the others for a similar price. Noctua has the best included thermal paste out of anyone out there (with their heatsinks), but the Arctic and IC (Gelid too, I just don't have personal experience with them) stuff can't be beat really.

Hello, I have a pc with a: 5820k Asrock x99m Killer 16gb of Adata Z1 Gigabyte 750ti Noctua U14s Raidmax Hybrid 530w This is my primary rendering workstation and I have been having some troubles. I had some problems setting this pc up (error codes, ram problems), but eventually I got all 16gb to show up and everything was great. I recently moved the pc downstairs (I'm moving my desk/work area.) I could not boot the pc up (error code B7 or 67) I removed all DIMMS except for 1 and cleared CMOS. I was able to get into Windows (10, 10240), but when I tried to open Chrome, the entire pc froze, audio stopped, and i could not move the mouse (I was at 100% stock speeds too). I do not know if it would have ever gotten to BSOD, I reset it immediately. When I got into the the BIOS, it only recognized 8gb of ram. I got back into Windows and it crashed one more time. And again, only 8gb of ram. I removed two DIMMS (the ones far from the i/o and it would not boot. Something is wrong with the two slots next to the i/o, the have always worked in the past. If it hangs up, I can't boot into the os (error 67/b7) and I have to switch to the 2nd BIOS on the board, boot, and switch back again. It's infuriating. This is extremely frustrating, the crashing and ram issues. I am on my 3rd boot into Windows after crashes and it hasn't crashed yet. This is my work pc and I want to fix it so I can get back to work. It hangs up and crashes all the time gives me error code 67/b7 and refuses to boot. Going in cycles. I always have to reset everything. It's such a hassle, this Mobo, please help! I can barely get to the OS 5/6 times it crashes, I've lost the ability to reset CMOS using the i/o button. SO MUCH IS WRONG! Thank you so much for any help you can give. - a friend in need

Arctic Silver 5 (Good) Arctic MX4 (Great) IC Diamond (Ultimate)

Seriously, Nobody?

Hello, I have a pc with a: 5820k Asrock x99m Killer 16gb of Adata Z1 Gigabyte 750ti Noctua U14s Raidmax Hybrid 530w This is my primary rendering workstation and I have been having some troubles. At first the pc would not boot because of a memory problem. I booted it with a stick of 2gb of ddr4 that I picked up at the store. I flashed the bios with the newest version and was able to boot with all 4 DIMMS. I had a light oc of 4.4ghz and XMP. I recently moved the pc downstairs (I'm moving my desk/work area.) I could not boot the pc up (error code B7 or 67) I removed all DIMMS except for 1 and cleared CMOS. I was able to get into Windows (10, 10240), but when I tried to open Chrome, the entire pc froze, audio stopped, and i could not move the mouse (I was at 100% stock speeds too). I do not know if it would have ever gotten to BSOD, I reset it immediately. When I got into the the BIOS, it only recognized 8gb of ram. I got back into Windows and it crashed one more time. And again, only 8gb of ram. I removed two DIMMS (the ones far from the i/o and it would not boot. Something is wrong with the two dimms/slots next to the i/o. This is extremely frustrating, the crashing and ram issues. I am on my 3rd boot into Windows after crashes and it hasn't crashed yet. This is my work pc and I want to fix it so I can get back to work. It hangs up and crashes all the time gives me error code 67/b7 and refuses to boot. Going in cycles. I always have to reset everything. It's such a hassle, this Mobo, please help! P. S. My backup computer us a 2009 MacBook Pro, if that gives you any reason to help me. I think you feel my pain

OK, I have a pretty crappy 5820k that reaches ~4.46 get at 1.32 volts. It sorta sux. Here is what I've got. Cpu: 35x (Bclk=128) = 4480mhz Input - 1.9v LLC - Level 3 Vcore - 1.32 Cache - 1.3v Cache - 30 (3822mhz) Ram: Xmp 2.0 = 2816mhz Auto voltage OK so basically what I'm trying to do is to set up offset voltages so my chip doesn't run hot at idle (50c on a u14s). Now since my mobo is an asrock, it has this thing called adaptive mode,where it has the "Adaptive voltage" and then the "Voltage additional offset." I have no f-ing clue what that means. The only coming I've ever done was with override voltages. I followed some guides online and I tried to set my "Adaptive voltage" to 1.33v and my "Voltage additional offset" to -0.010 which should equal 1.32v. So I saved and tried to boot into Windows. It kept getting stuck on the BIOS splash screen and rebooting in an infinite loop, I couldn't get into the bios either. I eventually coaxed it into booting into Windows. I started a stress test, but the CPU speed never went above 3.4ghz and the voltage stayed around 1.08v. WHAAA? I just wanna get this "adaptive" bs working so I can live in peace. You can probably tell I'm pretty f-ing irritated by this. P. S. I know that more of my voltages (cache, input) can be adaptive so I would like to set those up too. Ugh

Seriously? Nobody?

OK, I have a pretty crappy 5820k that reaches ~4.46 get at 1.32 volts. It sorta sux. Here is what I've got. Cpu: 35x (Bclk=128) = 4480mhz Input - 1.9v LLC - Level 3 Vcore - 1.32 Cache - 1.3v Cache - 30 (3822mhz) Ram: Xmp 2.0 = 2816mhz Auto voltage OK so basically what I'm trying to do is to set up offset voltages so my chip doesn't run hot at idle (50c on a u14s). Now since my mobo is an asrock, it has this thing called adaptive mode,where it has the "Adaptive voltage" and then the "Voltage additional offset." I have no f-ing clue what that means. The only coming I've ever done was with override voltages. I followed some guides online and I tried to set my "Adaptive voltage" to 1.33v and my "Voltage additional offset" to -0.010 which should equal 1.32v. So I saved and tried to boot into Windows. It kept getting stuck on the BIOS splash screen and rebooting in an infinite loop, I couldn't get into the bios either. I eventually coaxed it into booting into Windows. I started a stress test, but the CPU speed never went above 3.4ghz and the voltage stayed around 1.08v. WHAAA? I just wanna get this "adaptive" bs working so I can live in peace. You can probably tell I'm pretty f-ing irritated by this. P. S. I know that more of my voltages (cache, input) can be adaptive so I would like to set those up too. Ugh

I just PMed you.

Yeah you're right about the 2016 thing,i just looked it up. I'm downloading the RTM ISO onto my laptop (off of the world's slowest hotel wifi) just in case I need it later Direct message would be better, as I don't like to throw my email around on public forums. Anyways, where I am right now it's super late so I think I should prob. get some sleep.

Cool. I guess I'll just have to re-learn when I upgrade to win 10. I'll probably spend some time watching videos or reading stuff on how to navigate efficiently. I'm at the point where my computer isn't slowing me down anymore, it'd the way I use my os. I remember when win 7 (I upgraded from xp on an old pc) came out and I learned so many cool navigaton tips from friends that sped up my work.

Oh so you only have to pay if you buy the actual "disk" or flash drive from Microsoft to do a clean install? Neat!So I guess I have a pretty long grace period between when the full version is release and when I install it. Cool, good to know.

I know this is going to sound stupid but after upgrading from win 7 - > 8.1, I literally never use the start screen. I stay on the desktop 99.99% of the time. I'm just not used to the start screen. I have my pc set up to go to the program view when clicking the windows key/button but I didn't know you could search from there (I also rarely use it) Cool though, thanks! [emoji1]

Thanks a lot, I'll send you it when I get home in 1w. [emoji1] My mobo has this thing where I can control my pc remotely, but I haven't set it up yet. If I had I'd try the script right now.