MrBaker89

Rule of thumb: if there's any doubt it's safe to delete, just leave it be.
 
I can't think of a reason to. Deleting "extraneous" keys in the registry or Active Directory at best accomplishes nothing.
 

is there a reason to delete it?

IOS and android dont go along with eachother so an app wouldnt really work on both ends to backup stuff

What exactly needs to come over? Your google account will handle a lot of the essentials, like contacts and such. App purchases don't transfer over anyway. You'll want to back up apps like whatsapp, and your photos separate anyway, as there's usually so much data it takes forever to transfer that stuff.

You'd have to copy the entirety of the phone onto either a cloud service(very long to do on the phone) or hook up to your pc and copy and paste essentially. Then you hook up your pc to the new iphone. you can ask the 02 employees how to do that, they may have a easier solution 

You should still be able to convert it back as long as you can mount it or simply use dd on linux to do a block copy.

Thank you for your feedback, greatly appreciated. 

V2P is something I haven't explored personally since I've not had a use case for it. Finding a legitimate P2V software was hard enough when I was searching for one where that was never something I scoped out. Might need a separate software for it.

V2V Converter / P2V Converter - Converting VM Formats (starwindsoftware.com)
 
I've used this tool now dozens of times to convert desktops and servers to .vhdx. The first party Microsoft tool that used to let you do this is dead, and this was the most official one I could find. Doesn't try anything stupid either with pointing to WAN or such, so I would consider it safe.
 
Converting back though? Not sure since I haven't attempted to do that, the software might have a tool for that I haven't explored though.

Are you planning on just using their boot disk entirely for the VM, or moving it into a virtual file? If the former, it's dead easy and you won't have to do anything. If the latter, then you'd need to write the data back to a raw disk in order to allow a PC to boot it.

I just installed this kit in an Asus X670E-E with a 7800X3D CPU and it works flawlessly on EXPO II settings.
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/Xg2WGX/gskill-trident-z5-neo-64-gb-2-x-32-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040g32gx2-tz5n

Update your bios though.

Thank you very much for your reply. Very helpful. 
 
So, I think I would be better off going for 2 x 32GB sticks instead of adding another 2 x 16GB kits. 

It doesn't mean you're guaranteed to run 192GB of RAM @ 7200. It means the board supports up to 192GB (4x48GB) and up to 7200 (as an overclock). In their small print they say it is subject to the QVL (which isn't a guarantee either, see buildzoids video here) and there's no memory on the QVL (that I can see) above 6200/6400 that has more than 2 sticks tested.
 
This is an example from MSI of how the board's rating varies on number of sticks and the capacity:
Before AMD released the AGESA that supported higher speeds, it was pretty normal to use speeds lower than 6200/6400 for Ryzen 7000. This is an old (and now outdated) video on the topic:
 
The memory controller is on the CPU and the massive DDR5 de-rates * that Intel and AMD specify for their CPUs is pretty much saying "4 sticks? You're on your own buddy".
 
I think it is likely (from the recent experiences of other users) that if the sticks are compatible/stable running together then you'll be able to match, or get near to the rated speed of your memory with 4x16GB, but "out of the box" one-click XMP/EXPO is very unlikely. If you'll need to loosen the timings/up the DRAM voltage, or other tweaks, I can't say.
 
* Your CPU's spec page here:
 

Same timings might be the same NAND, but I wouldn't risk the stability issues with a 4x16GB kit with how sensitive RAM is on AM5 already. I'd look to buy a 2x32GB kit or and see if you can sell your current one.

AMD only rate their memory controller for DDR5-3600 with 4 sticks, so even with the exact same kit we still can't tell you 100% what will happen.
 
Most likely, EXPO/XMP will fail on the first boot and you'll have to do some degree of manual tuning. If you mix brands, I'd try to get the same memory chips.

Windows cannot run a normal executable file. It needs to be registered through SCM (service control manager) which is a major pain and I have no idea how this works.
Luckily  there are pre-built third-party OPENSOURCE utilities that does the hard work for you.
The most popular are SrvStart and NSSM (the non-sucking service manager)
 
Here is a link that will help you configure a service with "SrvStart"
https://www.howtogeek.com/50786/using-srvstart-to-run-any-application-as-a-windows-service/

If you want to satisfy all the requirements, there is far more involved than just installing something on the DC. It would require aggregating data from multiple source and you would have to have policies to ensure hosts are not able to bypass any of the data points. I can be simplified with a proper NGFW.
 
These requirements are better served with policies/applications on each host in the domain. I am not in the enterprise space so I cannot speak for specifics but there applications that can do what they need.

Yeah, been there a few times: done some work on a board, all sounds great when you put it back together except that one key or stabilizer. So... taking everything apart again, fiddling etc., nothing found or really changed.... key sounds great, but now the spacebar rattles. 
There is a bit of luck involved, I guess.
 
If it gets really bad you can always just completely disassemble the stabilizer, clean it and relube everything etc. Quite tedious though, especially if you don't have some tools to hold the thing and good brushes etc.

There are a few things you can try, but I have to be honest my success rate is rather low with these things. I'll do my best to describe what I have tried in the past and what my current understanding of the issue is.
 
First off, to my knowledge you have already identified the cause of stabilizer ticking: play of the wire in one of the two stems. Usually this is exacerbated by 'looseness' of the wire, meaning there is little resistance for the wire to move and any little disturbance will move it around and lead to ticks or pings/rattle.
 
What you can do to mitigate this depends on your level of commitment and available tools/materials:
Lubing up the stabs more, with grease like krytox 205g0, or dielectric grease (usually the permatex stuff). The idea is not only to lubricate the stab, but to use it to keep the wire from moving easily under light load, yet lubricate under higher load. Grease is usually shear-thinning and rather viscous under no shear. Good to keep it in place and prevent it from creeping all over the place. So add more grease to the inside of the stab where the wire sits, either with a tube or syringe. Downside is that this can get messy and that you can overdo it and the stab becomes 'sticky'. Mod the stabilizer stem to improve the tolerances. This can be done with stuff like bandaids or thin electrical tape etc. To give you an idea, the image below is stolen from Durock's stabilizer listing on amazon to give you an idea where the thing would go. Result would be that the hole for the wire to go in is just large enough for the thing to pivot but not rattle around. This would be the red things in the image below (12). Worst case you would have to straighten the wire if it is bend. Another thing that I found works great, especially on plate mount stabs but also on screw-in ones, is to add a small section of sticky foam underneath the wire. Idea with this is to cushion and apply minimal pressure on the thing, kind of like holding it with a finger very softly. vibrations and rattle get dampened quite effectively, but rotations or larger movements from actuation are hardly impeded. You would need the foam things though. I simply recycled the offcuts from this: https://kbdfans.com/products/kbdfans-module-foam They come in sheets precut, so lots of narrow strips left after peeling them off. This would be position (3) in the image below. Last but not least make sure the keycap is seated properly. Sometimes one side is pressed in more than the other and you have uneven actuation/travel. Hopefully this gives you some ideas on how to deal with this issue. 
 

After years of using wireless membrane, and most recently a K55 membrane.
I've ascended to mechanical with a Glorious GMMK pro
Gateron brown switches
and G.skill crystal crown caps.

 
Caps were super cheap and aren't the right sizes 😵 but all microcenter had that were white/crystal, plenty of frosted pudding? Caps.

There are few options:
heavier linears, like Gateron yellows or even blacks. Yes, so said tactiles, but these are very nice to type on and being heavier than reds you find on all the gamer boards means lot less trouble with typos etc. Gateron baby Kangaroo or Boba U4T: these are heavier to actuate, but also have a very early tactile bump with almost zero lead (the actuation point where a press is registered is still at the usual spot). A lot of people really like this Holy Panda switches: no personal experience, but another tactile switch lots of people seem to like. Cherry MX clear might also be heavier than the Keychron browns. If you really want to dive deep: 
https://www.theremingoat.com/  Lots of really in-depth reviews of switches, with force-curves to give you an idea about the feel of the switch.
Just the curves are here:
https://github.com/ThereminGoat/force-curves/blob/main/Gateron KS9 Pro 2.0 Brown/Gateron KS9 Pro 2.0 Brown.pdf
https://github.com/ThereminGoat/force-curves/blob/main/Gateron Baby Kangaroo/Gateron Baby Kangaroo.pdf
https://github.com/ThereminGoat/force-curves/blob/main/Gateron Kangaroo Ink/Gateron Kangaroo Ink.pdf
https://github.com/ThereminGoat/force-curves/blob/main/Drop Holy Panda X Clear (5 Pin)/Drop Holy Panda X Clear (5 Pin).pdf
https://github.com/ThereminGoat/force-curves/blob/main/Cherry MX Clear/Cherry MX Clear.pdf
https://github.com/ThereminGoat/force-curves/blob/main/Cherry MX Brown/Cherry MX Brown.pdf
 
Edit: 
I forgot: Keychron also has "banana" and "mint" tactiles now, which sound very similar to baby kangaroos etc. They appear out of stock, but maybe that is another option for you.

The Keychron Q6 is relatively easily available, has ISO layout options, and is considered fairly decent. 
https://keychron.de/collections/keychron-iso-jis-keyboard-collection/products/keychron-q6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection#

Pretty common question probably but what is a decent full size keyboard (brand) to get back into mechanical keyboards? Preferably with a volume/sound control button/thing on it. Its quite overwhelming when you google on this subject and see all the SEO crap and obvious sponsoring sites.
 
Is there a brand that (almost everyone) agrees is decent?
 
Max budget around €300,-. 

The k4 takes standard cherry keycaps so is those are cherry it will, but there are more things to consider. 
You have to see if it matches the layout, the K4 has a 1.75u size right Shift key and the right ALT, FN, CTRL are 1u, besides that the top keys over the numpad are not the standard one so if your keycap set has them on the side they need to be for the top row.
 
I will help if you post a link to the set you are looking at.
 
 

yeah, and gamer RGB keyboards are timeless pieces of art, or what?
 
Hard to say definitively without a link or more details on those caps. In general, the K4 uses standard cherry MX compatible keycaps, so unless these are not compatible with cherry switches it shouldn't be a problem.