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No need for that. Those remote outlets are basically adapters that you plug in to the regular one.

A remote socket will do the trick as well. Set your BIOS/UEFI to automatically boot when it detects power. To boot the PC, turn on the outlet. To reset it, turn the outlet off and back on.

Of course those ratings are given shortly after the purchase. The big question is how those cheap bearings and motors will hold up after for example a year of use.

The Meshify will be more noisy than the Define. In terms of silence ... These graphs are from Gamers Nexus. Thanks for all the testing, Steve. Really appreciated. Stock vs stock, the 601 is around 2.5dBA quieter than the Meshify ... but the CPU runs 8°C hotter. The stock Fractal fans are more noisy than the more expensive stock BeQuiet ones. I assume you'll be running your own fans anyway, so some of that difference in volume will be compensated by that alone. To get the same temps, the fans on the Define and Meshify will be able to run at a lower RPM than those in the 601, which will reduce the noise level as well. That just might make up for all of the difference, but at this point I'm making more or less calculated guesses. My main reason for choosing the Define C over the Meshify was because of dust and cat hair. On the Meshify, you'll see that on the entire front mesh. On the Define there's a little on the side vents and that's it. Also my NAS and main rig are in R5s already, so sticking with the Define look was a logical choice. EDIT : Oh, of course the windowed and tempered glass versions will be more noisy than the non-windowed versions, especially with these 3 cases. Both BeQuiet and Fractal put lots of padding on the side panels to reduce the noise, and of course they can't do that on a glass or window. So decide for yourself how much you care about silence and how much about aesthetics. I went for non-windowed myself. I can always take off the side panel if I want to show the inside to people. The rest of the time it's just a clean, simple box that doesn't attract too much attention.

Nah, underneath the shroud it looks somewhat like this (quick sketch, black lines are the shape of the shroud viewed from the front, the grey area is the PSU)

As a Define C owner rocking a full-size ATX board, I can't imagine going much smaller than the Define/Meshify C. Enthoo Pro M : 500 * 480 * 235 mm (Length * height * width) Meshify C : 409 * 453 * 217 mm (again L * H * W) So the Fractal case is 9cm shorter, almost 3cm lower and about 2cm less wide. As for how the C looks with an ATX board : The bottom of the MoBo is a mm or so above the PSU shroud. IIRC there's not much room between the shroud and the PSU itself. Vertically, the only real "wasted" space is that above the motherboard, but then again that 8-pin connector for the CPU needs to go up to get behind the motherboard tray and the room may come in handy if you're going to put a radiator and fans in the top. As for the length, that's an ASUS 1060 3GB in that photo, a 242mm card. I currently have an MSI 1070 Gaming X in there (279mm), and that leaves me about 37mm to the back of the fans. Fractal claims 315mm maximum, I'm measuring 316. So their numbers are accurate. If you remove the cover at the front of the PSU shroud there's room in the front for a 360mm rad. At the top, things get more complicated. There are holes for dual 140mm fans there, but I'm only seeing 120/240 rad support in the spec sheet. 280mm may fit, but not in combination with a 360 in the front. And with a 280 with fans you'll probably have VRM clearance issues. A 360 + 240 setup should be possible though.

Me neither, at least not without a backup. However I do see a use case for this. If you don't trust cloud storage and want to keep a backup of all your important data on your phone, that amount of space can come in handy. At the current price I'll happily deal with the inconvenience of constantly having an extra SSD with my backups in my backpack. However once the price of 1TB microSD cards drops to about $250, I'd REALLY consider it.

Gamers Nexus did a review of the non-rgb version. He mentioned the RGB version in the review because the type of fans is basically the only real difference between the two. Brief summary : On the promo shots for the RGB version the fans are mounted on the outside of the chassis. In that position the airflow is almost entirely blocked off by the front panel. You can move the fans back an inch by mounting them on the inside of the chassis, which will improve airflow. However in that scenario half of the fans' LEDs will be blocked off by the chassis. So that's no good either. Thermaltake cases tend to be ... well ... garbage compared to for example Fractal ones. The thinnest steel they can get away with, few tie-down points for cable management compared to other brands, etc etc. You just feel that you're building inside a cheaper and inferior product. Steve does mention near the end that "quality-wise, it's decent. I put it at average", so perhaps they did use proper steel this time (probably to solve rigidity issues caused by that big panoramic window). As for acrylic, it tends to scratch easily. Not sure what you can do to protect it. I got so fed up with the scratches on my own PCs' windows that I ended up getting a windowless case. Dust isn't really an issue, although there can always be some on the inside. On my old windowed cases I never encountered any discoloration or warping due to old age.

Ah, yes. I'm not the easiest guy to mention. The space in my name tends to mess things up for a lot of people. No idea how long it should be submerged. That depends mainly on how bad things are.

I used to have an Android VM in Virtualbox. Worked like a charm, but then again that was back when Android 4.4 was the hot new thing. Looks like it's still pretty much the same though, albeit with a more modern version. https://www.howtogeek.com/164570/HOW-TO-INSTALL-ANDROID-IN-VIRTUALBOX/ Looks like Android x86 is on 8.1 now. The instructions from HowToGeek still look familiar, so I assume not much has changed.

I'd lean towards iso or hot distilled water. If it were my keyboard, I'd go for the distilled water first, then try again with iso if needed.

That's why I mentioned bath/shower temperature. Deadslayer still needs to be able to put his/her hand underwater to repeatedly press the switches, so it can't be much more than 38°C - 100°F anyway. I doubt that plastic will melt at that temperature.

True, there is that risk depending on the quality of the tap water. With distilled water the odds of that happening are almost nonexistant. Deadslayer mentions "some switches". If that's (for example) a dozen switches, there'll be a lot of alcohol involved in thoroughly cleaning them. Replacing the one or two keys that could fail later on due to corrosion may be cheaper than the amount of alcohol needed to clean all the sticky switches.

more water. Lots more water. Submerge the keys completely in warm water (the kind of temperature that you take a hot bath/shower in), press them a couple hundred times while submerged, then let them dry out. If that still doesn't fix it, I'm not sure what will.

That information isn't safe on YouTube anyway. Imagine that someone uploads the only video footage of a historical event. A year later the same person uploads 3 historical documentaries that he ripped from from National Geographic. What do you think happens to that rare footage when those other 3 videos get copyright strikes? Google will delete the entire channel and all its content without checking what exactly it is that they're removing. Historical, important and educational Information is deleted/destroyed/lost on a daily basis, both on YouTube and in the real world. We just don't notice it because we're not aware of how much is out there. A lot of people download most/all videos that they tend to find important / educational / hilarious / etc etc. The uploaders also tend to keep a copy as long as they're in business or alive. You'd be surprised how much stuff would pop back up elsewhere if YouTube shuts down.

https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/previous-versions/ms854226(v=msdn.10) 99% of the time this error is caused by a driver issue. Troubleshooting those isn't always easy. Never had to deal with Bluescreens on Win10, but I did on 8.1 when I tried that on my main PC. There I used a tool called BlueScreenView to read the crash dumps and some Google-fu to find the culprit.

Like Llama said, the vibration will not be an issue. The best way to maximize airflow is to go with dual 140mm fans in the front and a single 120mm in the rear. No need for fans in the top, on my Define C I didn't notice any change in temperature with those. Adding more fresh air may not affect GPU temperature though. Many GPUs have their fan curve set to run at a certain temperature. Increasing the airflow may simply result in your GPU running at the exact same temperature, albeit with a lower GPU fan RPM. If the motherboard does indeed support PWM (some only do voltage control despite having 4 pins, so double check the manual and contact the manufacturer when in doubt), personally I'd rip out all stock fans and replace them all with PWM fans. Especially if the tower is close to you, having the fans idle at 12-15% speed instead of 40-50% will make a noticeable difference in terms of sound. As long as the system is idling, it'll still have enough airflow at that low RPM. Sure, that extra bit of noise reduction will bump up your budget quite a bit. How much you're willing to spend on silence is a choice you'll have to make, we can't do that for you.

Some older laptops don't boot from UBS sticks. Yours may be one of those. For those machines you'll need to boot it from a DVD instead of a stick. Installing the OS on another machine and then swapping over the hard drive is never a good idea. The OS will be installed with drivers for the machine that you installed it on. If that has a different chipset etc, you can end up with a non-functioning OS (like you did). The only proper solution is to put your Windows 7 installer on an empty DVD, put that in the laptop's tray and start the installation like that. Afterwards you can use the USB stick to install the drivers etc. Speaking of drivers, be sure to check which exact model of CQ60 you have. Odds are that you'll need to at least install the network drivers manually before Win7 can search online for the rest of the drivers.

Several Microsoft employees, including Hololens engineers, call on Microsoft to drop the military contract that the company won in November 2018. They feel cheated by the company because they signed on to develop a tool for architects, car designers, surgeons, pianists etc, but are instead being seen as war profiteers because their work will be used to more easily kill people. Source 1 : Business Insider Source 2 : BBC News The entire letter is posted in the Business Insider article. However seeing as it's an open letter, I feel that it's okay to post the letter in its entirety here. The unfortunate reality is that someone WILL provide this kind of technology to the military. That being said, I'd be pretty pissed if I were in the developers' place too. Imagine creating something that has the potential to improve the world, only to see it being used to kill people. This could be seen as a follow-up on the topic that @AluminiumTech created here on December 4th. EDIT : replaced the image with something smaller.

I've blocked several people for being <censored> <censored>. Unfortunately other members often quote their nonsensical garbage and the forum doesn't hide those quotes, so I end up reading half of it anyway.

Ah, Facebook, the gift that keeps on giving ... or rather the data hoarder that keeps collecting your most personal data. Indeed. Unfortunately the only defense against this is to go to extremes in order to leak as little data as possible.

Boot sector is on the C drive, so that's perfect. I'm afraid there's little we can do to speed it up. It's probably just the BIOS/UEFI that's taking time to check the hardware ... which includes spinning up the HDD to check its health. If it makes you feel any better, your PC still boots in less than half the time that mine takes, and mine only has SSDs inside with a 960PRO as boot drive.

Not sure where it is on Windows 10. On Win7 it's control panel -> administrative tools -> computer management -> disk management. That will show all connected drives and how they are partitioned. What you're looking for is the "Boot" flag, as shown below. (this screenshot is from a virtual machine, hence the single drive. My actual PC has several drives but an unusual structure on the C drive, so I can't use that as an example)

That's weird, because I used it at least 50 times to report you. ?

The HDD size issue is caused by the difference between the MBR and GPT partitioning styles. Now that yours is using GPT, you shouldn't have that problem anymore unless you manually change it to MBR in diskpart. As for why it's best to install Windows with all drives unplugged : If you install Windows on a PC with more than one drive, the Windows installer has this nasty habit of installing the bootloader on another disk than the one you're installing the OS on. If the bootloader is indeed on the HDD, that could very well explain slow boot times. That being said, normally the BIOS/UEFI always checks all the detected hardware before it starts loading the operating system. So that might also explain why you hear the HDD spin up before the OS starts to boot.