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About Bipinvsnl

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    PC, PS3, PS4, Casual gaming, PC Strip and Rebuilds, Vocal Trance, Economics, Politics, Business Analysis, Operating Systems.
  • Occupation
    CPG Business Analyst


  • CPU
    i5 3570K
  • Motherboard
    Asus Maximus V Formula
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair 1333Mhz
  • GPU
    R7 270
  • Case
    Cooler master 690 III
  • Storage
    120GB Samsung SSD Evo + 6 TB Separate Seagate HDD
  • PSU
    Gigabyte 500 Watts
  • Display(s)
  • Cooling
  • Keyboard
  • Mouse
  • Sound
    Denon AVR and Polk Tsi 400 Floor Standings with Polk PSW 110 powered Sub.
  • Operating System
    Windows 8.1
  1. Agreed! The newer one that i use 8200PRO is good, my S5 failed the very first day, and unfortunately i came across people facing the same issue with one particular realtek controller. I am disappointed because i am sure Adata is aware of this issue due to the RMA they get with the same issue description, but they continue to sell them still! And where i live, Amazon has disabled the returns policy, where as other SSDs have atleast 10 days replacement. Should have taken this as a clue
  2. The older models where they use the Realtek controllers on the drives are very poor in terms of longevity. Although the newer drives are ok with different controllers, i personally would avoid Adata / XPG and prefer to go with other brands. People tend to look at their 6000 models which are fairly cheaper, but these are the ones with the realtek controllers!
  3. Do not buy the XPG or Adata drives, they fail often, and the 6000 series has issues that ll give you a nightmare. Always prefer Samsung, WD, Crucial or Sabrent.
  4. Companies to consider: Samsung, WD, Sabrent, Crucial Companies to avoid: Adata / XPG
  5. Is the SSD by any chance ADATA or XPG ?
  6. Hmm the Adata SSDs / XPG SSDs have a reputation to fail, not reliable at all. I have a Gammix SSD which failed on the very first day, and later read a lot about them and got to know they are not as good. The usual problem will start from them disappearing in the BIOS, and later if you manage to get it up and running, keep a watch for random freezes and BDOS with error "WHEA Uncorrectable Error", this is when you have to send it back for repair. Not trying to scare you, but it is what it is, and just keep a lookout for the above 2 issues which is an indication that the controller on the drive is faulty. I am very disappointed with Adata SSDs.
  7. Hello What would you prefer - A wired keyboard and mouse or A wireless keyboard and mouse ? Keeping in mind the majority of the time spent on the PC is for work rather than gaming. Thanks!
  8. Hello people of the Linus republic. I tried searching the web to get a proper answer for my question and didnt find any. So thought i ll put it up here. Now, i know that a 1333mhz, 1600mhz, 1866Mhz or a 2133Mhz wont have any noticeable performance difference. But what i want to know is, the faster the RAM the better the CPU overclocking capability ?? I am not talking about RAM overclocking. I am talking about CPU Overclocking. I have an Asus Maximus V formula with a 3570K. But only Corsair value RAM of 1333Mhz @ 16GB 4x4. I was 4.4 Ghz stable until i found out that 1 of the RAM sticks is failing soon after i started running the CPU at this speed. Now, if the new RAM sticks are Faster and a set of 2, say 2x4 G.skill @ 2133mhz. Will this help a stable CPU overclock ? Than a value RAM @ 1333mhz? Couldn't find a proper answer to my question as most of the topics seem to divert to RAM overclocking and no performance gains etc.. I just wanted to know, the better the RAM = better CPU overclocking. Thanks!
  9. Oh Ok! The place I live is humid, so prioritized on minimizing the temps. Pretty impressive temps you got there on your setup.
  10. Have been a fan of Linus since a long time. Thought of posting the mods I have made in my PC. Specs: CPU: i5 3570K (delidded with AS5 applied) MB: Asus Maximus V formula RAM: 16GB Corsair 1333Mhz GPU: R7 270 PSU: GIGABYTE 500 Watts Cooler: H100i SDD: Samsung Evo 120Gb After a lot of trial and errors with overclocking and heat problems, the purpose came down to having a stable CPU at maximum frequency but at the lowest voltage and temperature possible. Had a difficult time adjusting the IHS after delidding and AS5 application due to its slippery nature. The temperature: After 3-4 times of cleaning and refitting, it’s finally optimally set. I had read in several forums that not all 4 cores have the same temps. This was true in my case as well, wherein from the day I bought this CPU more than a year ago, the difference between the hottest and the coldest core was 10 degrees centigrade. Now that’s a lot. But after some trial and errors, the IHS, TIM and the cooler base are set so perfectly that all the 4 cores are reporting almost the same temps across on and off load. 30-32 degrees at idle and 62-65 degrees at full load. All of this with 0 noise from the case. This was what I was looking for. Same temps across and lower temps. 1st target achieved. The Overclocking and the power savings: Had a lot of trial and errors as mentioned. I tried 4.5 GHz and 4.4 GHz both of which needed huge voltage bumps and emitted a lot of unnecessary heat. So went to 4.3 GHz at stock voltage, but still with unsatisfactory temps. Could not accept 70 degrees or higher and 130-140 Watts on regular/normal non-gaming use. So this time instead of keying in static voltage or +ve offsets I set it to "-ve" and entered 0.075. Tried booting with 4.3 Ghz and no success. So dialled the clock down to 4.2 Ghz and it worked. Ran prime for 2 hours and noticed 1 core was failing after an hour and 30 mins of prime. So changed the offset to -0.070 and re-started the tests. Purpose achieved! All stable at 4.2 GHz at low volts and less heat. Oh, and I had reduced the CPU PLL voltage to 1.55 volts from 1.80 volts. Conclusion: Idle volts and temps: 0.912 volts @ 30-32 Degrees centigrade Full load prime test: 1.128 volts @ 62-65 Degrees Centigrade. And the PC consumes a steady 100 Watts at normal usage (non-Gaming).