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MalcolmSex

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About MalcolmSex

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    Junior Member
  1. I want Polaris because due to end of life support my GTX780 is often beaten by $200 GTX960s
  2. I used to have a main C: drive SSD, and a D: drive for storage and any additional applications. Well, after saving what few files & folders I wanted to keep from C:, I unplugged my D: drive and did a wipe and clean install of windows 10. Once I got everything working, I plugged my D: drive back in, just to realize that none of the applications or files on D: were showing up in start menu searches, in Programs & Features, 3rd party apps ect... I now realize I may have fudged up and forgot a step, but how do I go about resolving this?
  3. So which driver version are you running?
  4. I don't have one, I'm wondering if it's still worth it to get a used 780Ti (or cheaper 780) over a 970
  5. When the 900 series came out, the 780Ti was on par or better than a 980, while the 780 was snugly between the 970 and 980. However, as newer games keep coming out, it seems a if the Kepler cards are performing progressively worse than their newer Maxwell counterparts. In particular, in some games like the Witcher 3 (which is the game convincing me to retire my 680), bad drivers are causing the 700 cards to be beaten by the 960 and R9 280, WTF! There are very good prices on used 780s right now (around $225-250 or $320 for a Ti), and I was wondering if they still are viable options compared to a new $330 970. Supposedly, NVIDIA is "working on a fix" for the Witcher, but I can't help but feel foul play, especially when the gap between a 780Ti and a 980 is ever widening. I'd be playing on 1440p, and am upgrading from a GTX 680 2Gb.
  6. I have the worst GTX 680 Lightning to ever leave production (more below). The graphics driver will crash and leave me with a temporary grey (or any other solid color) screen every single time I open Padora.com or Vessel.com in chrome (Firefox isn't loading). Other apps, games (such as BF4 or CSGO), websites or simple actions will cause crashes which often require a hard reset. This is a new problem (although problems w/ my card aren't new in general). I have tried wiping all drivers with display driver uninstaller, and installing the two newest nvidia drivers (one of which worked in the past). As it is a lighting card, I have also tried switching to the unlocked LN2-BIOS (which I flashed on the secondary slot December), and supplying more power and voltage. The card has stayed stock it's whole life as anything more than 15MHz core and 275MHz mem is unstable (worst lightning ever). I also have noticed occasional light artifacting and frequent crashes in BF4 for quite some time. I assumed those issues were just due to the terrible game, but now I'm thinking that my card is dying. What should I try next? I'd kind of like to play my copy of GTA V, and gear up for the Witcher
  7. Well shit! The ATT S6 is a locked piece of shit, a lot of folks on XDA are having issues unlocking their T-mobile devices, and the international version is more expensive AND may miss out on a critical update or two
  8. Just tempted to jump the gun on a Galaxy S6 G920i, which is on sale from a legit vendor on eBay today only. I'd use it on AT&T, and as far as I know, the bands are compatible, and it's made for the Americas, I just want to know what the other concerns are. I've heard issues about carrier unlocking T-mobile variants (which might be fixed now), I just figured the international version would be better in terms of speed of updates and ROMS.
  9. "get early access" this is internet fast lanes all over again
  10. That helped get memory to full speed, but now other than a short peak at start up the core still won't go above 705MHz
  11. I did. turning off and reseting did not fix it. Will try completely clean driver install later
  12. My card won't ramp up above 535mHz core 8xx on the memory. This is a fairly new problem MSI GTX 680 Lightning 2.5 years old no artifacting usually runs @ 65-75C seasonic x760 psu Driver 347.52 Using MSI afterburner Bios 1 [80.04.47.00.18 (out of box non-LN2)] Bios 2 [probably 80.04.28.00.3A (unlocked LN2), but I haven't used it in a while] Bios switch is unresponsive, stuck on bios 1 Been @ stock clocks 85% of life. The other 15% was stock core, +300-350 memory. Stock voltages 120% power limit Always been the worst overclocker I've had. Even with pre-production LN2 bios, could barely get +15mHz out of the core
  13. "Quantity has a quality all its own" ~Joseph Stalin
  14. I just play a speaker in the background [line out]
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