Kermit

Unless you have all your graphic settings maxed on CS:GO, there shouldn't be that much heat output... Try turning the video settings down to the minimum and try again. 

If this wasn't the case, I would scrap the 480. There are so many better cards that are way cheaper than what you have. Mid-tier cards that run games fine at 1080p can cost around 180-220 USD. (R9 280x is a good one)

Anyhow, goodluck

Also try air dusting your components - especially the fan and heatsink on your GPU.

- JAB

Unless your willing to drop some serious dough, i wouldn't go for 8tb of HDD storage - maybe 4 max. Also, go for a nice GTX 780 or something like that. Get yourself a decent card instead of stressing it on a power-hungry system like this. Anyways, best of luck- I suggest reading around this forum in your spare time, thats how I got into the whole PC-tech thing.

GTX 750 ti is around 160 USD, but the 960 is 210 USD... not a big difference.

Definitely go for the GTX 960.

So if you play FIFA, you might know about Team Of The Year (TOTY) being released on January 12th. And if you play FIFA, you also know people go ham on packs when TOTY comes out because the players sell for a crazy amount of coins... SO--

When people open an immense amount of packs, 95% of the players are going to be listed on the market. Prices go down, my squad rating goes up (if you catch my drift). Not to mention that EA servers will also go down multiple times... But my question is how bad is the crash going to be this year? In FIFA 14 when the TOTY was released, I remember most players went down in price like 50%...

My question is - Is it worth saving my coins for an additional two weeks and waiting for the crash, or should I spend my extra 1/2 mil on like Robben for my Bundesliga team?

Thanks

-JAB

just got a r9 280, how do i overclock it(i got the gigabyte windforce with 3 coolers)?

Go to the overclocking section

I need some help with my PC/Xbox setup... 

So I have a custom PC and an Xbox One, and it would be perfect to get a dual-HDMI monitor to be able to switch between them. But I'm cheap lol. Anyways, I have an old acer monitor with VGA and DVI inputs and a broken input switch button, so what I got was this: 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WV5AB2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But the output was still HDMI, so I got this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P28H4Y0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now you may be asking yourself why I got the HDMI to DVI with audio, but it is because my monitor does not do anything with audio (hence why it is DVI and VGA) so I have to grab audio from HDMI.

Okay. So now you know my setup, but I have a problem. All this stuff is coming in the mail right now, but I was just wondering after I ordered the stuff if I really need DVI. Price-wise, an "HDMI to VGA + 3.5mm audio" converter is cheaper than an HDMI to DVI + 3.5mm audio", but is there a visible difference between the two running at 1080p?

Thanks in advance,

-JAB

I don't have any ideas for charities so don't enter me, but I do think its really cool for you to be doing this.

Come on guys look on the bright side... The OS is 64 bit

Looks clean. Nice work with the cable sleeves - I like the color choices.

for me personally this is what I would go with

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152590

Yeah, also something to consider: MSi GS70 Stealth pro

[holy balls an RGB keyboard]

I don't know how to embed video (lol), so heres Linus's review: http://youtu.be/cWuUuUvyHi4

Also the Newegg listing (a bit more expensive than the GS60): http://www.newegg.com/

good talk.

The power button on your case may have a loose connection with the mobo? Also is the PC powering on or is it just waking from sleep?

I forget the exact benchmarks, but I would think that 2-way 970s outperform a single 980 or am I wrong?

Ayyy

Thanks for doin' these giveaways

Rock on LTT 

With the launch of the GTX 970 and 980 cards, and the discontinuation of the 700 series, is is possible for the price of the 780 and 780ti to drop even just a little bit? I love the look of the reference 780 ti and it has fairly spectacular performance when gaming... Is there any chance that it would drop after production stops, or will it stay at the $700 (GTX 780ti) and $350 (GTX 780) mark, or will it increase due to less of these cards being available? Or do you suggest a 980 reference, for the cost of some cooling temperatures? Maybe the 980 reference? I don't really know, and thats why I'm asking you guys.

P.S. -- I've been looking and I can't seem to find a reference 970... is there such a thing?

Thanks, 

JAB

Sadly in this day and age, £400 doesn't get you very far when building a gaming PC. Personally, I had a budget of $700 (£426) and ended up spending $950 (£580). I would suggest spending around £480-ish and getting decent components. Then if you want to upgrade and have some extra money, you can replace old parts. Anyways, £400 will be able to play any non-GPU intensive games at good FPS. Good luck! Do you already have Windows? You might also might want to consider a pre-built barebones PC that is sometimes MUCH cheaper than finding your own components. 

Edit:   PLEASE DONT USE AMD (Intel is more expensive but in my opinion, much better performance for a slight price increase).

GTX 970 is basically an on-sale GTX 980. Besides a few differences in stock clock speeds and CUDA cores, they both have amazing performance. For $299 instead of $499, I would settle for a tiny bit less performance in the GTX 970.

From a LTT video on the Asus Strix GTX 970:

Im just over here waiting for the GTX 760's price to drop... #GodPleaseMakeTheGTX760Cheaper

Welcome! 

In regards to your question, I don't know much about your case (other than it looks badass). What I can say is that it looks like it should fit in the top as long as you have a 240mm radiator or smaller.

Personally, my case is on the smaller, more compact side and doesn't support anything more than a 120mm radiator.

My 120mm H80i is great, and I Suggest it for anyone with a smaller case...240mm radiators may allow for cooler temperatures, but 120mm is very compact and gets the job done.

Wait until the new GPUs come out and for older models to drop in price. Seems like what everybody is doing now...

And then theres me waiting for the EVGA's GTX 770 to drop... I love that card with a passion.

Cool thanks... I'll contact them when I get the chance!

Personally, the games and programs I run require a decent GPU, so I wouldn't know much about onboard graphics.

To answer your question, I would get a Quadro (just kidding). No but really, if you want to spend around $650 get a GeForce GTX 780 Ti. I've had my eye on that card for a while, and the second it goes on sale or drops in price I'm snatching it up. The only problem that I see is that (as others have pointed out) your CPU may bottleneck the performance of the 780 Ti (or whatever high-end card you choose). Being able to spend over $500 dollars on a graphics card really opens doors to what you can buy and get good performance out of.

Anyways - hope it helped,

J.A.B.

I know people who have learned to check their GPU/case dimensions the hard way. They order the card and the case, then when it arrives they complain about how it doesn't fit. Your card is 29.5cm and your case can hold, at max, a 26.7cm card. Sorry You should probably find a slightly bigger case or a smaller card. 30cm seems like overkill for graphics cards these days, but hey - the MSI GTX 780 Lightning has insane performance so I'm not one to complain.

P.S. I dont understand all the hate towards OP. He asked a question so just answer it...

Anyways, good luck with finding a solution. In my opinion, I would get a new case. Your card shouldn't be dictated by why case you want; for example I have a 22.3cm card and a mid-sized case to go with it. LOTS of empty space... but still better than a choking your components in regards to airflow. 

- J.A.B.

This happened to me once but it was because my graphics card wasn't snapped into my PCI slot and it came loose. I had been using on-board graphics for 3 weeks... I was such a computer noob back then *sighs and reflects on his past*

Here's the deal. I have an old 2006 Nikon D50 that is having some issues. I've brought it to a sketchy camera repair shop and they said there was nothing they could do (and charged me $25 for the useless diagnosis). I would really like to fix it rather than by new, current Nikon for over $500. The problem is that whenever I turn the camera on, it boots properly, but doest allow me to take pictures. No matter what setting and/or combination of settings I change the camera to, it doesn't click. The lens works fine and I can see through the eye-piece, but when I press the capture button, the picture doesn't auto-focus and doesn't take the picture. If anyone has ever fixed this issue, please share with me... 

Thanks,

J.A.B.

P.S. - Nikon D3300 be like: