OhYou_

It’s a discord account, just make another account.

I think you're confusing hashing with encryption.

what are you even trying to do
you dont need a schematic just stare at it, its a simple dual layer pcb

what are you even trying to do
you dont need a schematic just stare at it, its a simple dual layer pcb

yea a 3060 or rx 6650 xt or 4060ti or probably a 4070 with turboboost turned off

That's for sure like a 8GB ish seagate drive from ages ago, not even a modern ide drive.
you need one of these cheap little adapters https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-Female-Converter-Adapter-Desktop/dp/B081YP2S5R

I think they mean you would unpair the headphones from the stand and pair them to that adaptor instead, as it advertises a lot of range.
in practice though, bluetooth will have more latency and the adapter may not actually provide more range depending on a few factors, mainly it's cheapness and design.

I think they mean you would unpair the headphones from the stand and pair them to that adaptor instead, as it advertises a lot of range.
in practice though, bluetooth will have more latency and the adapter may not actually provide more range depending on a few factors, mainly it's cheapness and design.

Budget (including currency): $3000
I'd prefer to not use all of my budget, and I can go a bit over if need be.
 
Country: United States
 
Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: 
I currently have two 4K 60 fps monitors that I plan on replacing / adding on to before long, they have pretty horrendous ghosting (I think that's the term?) around the edges, but they work well enough for now. I mostly play either fighting games like SF6 that don't benefit as much from higher refresh rates, or more cinematic single player games. My current PC struggles to run BG3 at acceptable conditions, and I can't wait to play Final Fantasy XVI when that comes to PC.
I also do a decent amount of photo and video editing on the side, but that's all as a hobbyist and not that seriously.
 
PCPartPicker Link: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CQ2RxH
 
Case: Fractal Design Terra
This was the starting point of my build, as soon as I saw this case I fell in love with it. I love the tiny form factor and the wooden accent, matches my style well. Any changes to this system necessitate it still works with this case.

CPU: AMD 7800X3D
As far as I can tell this is the king of both gaming PCs and especially mini-ITX builds, where the lower power draw means that it will stay cooler in a smaller case.

I also do love Intel (I have a close family member who works there and is awesome) but it doesn't seem like they have any compelling competitors.

CPU Cooler: ID-COOLING IS-55 Black 54.6 CFM CPU Cooler
PCPartPicker says this won't fit, but with the case's spine moved, it should fit, and I've seen some builds using it. This seems to be the best CPU cooler that can fit in the case based on reviews I've seen online, and finding one that fits is the biggest concern.

GPU: MSI VENTUS 3X OC GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER
Because of the case, my GPU selection is a bit more limited. I want to have a 4080 at the very least, and this seems to be in the sweet-spot for me. It is only 62 mm wide which gives me more room for the CPU cooler, and only 136 mm tall which should give a bit more room for the power cables.

The MSI GeForce RTX™ 4080 SUPER 16G GAMING X SLIM also seems like a decent option, being the same dimensions but $40 more with a higher boost clock, which I'm not sure is worth it.

The Asus ProArt OC GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER also seems compelling, but is $120 more with an even higher boost clock but an even smaller form factor, being 120 mm tall and 50 mm wide. However I think the smaller form factor doesn't matter enough to shift the needle, it doesn't allow me to get that much better of a CPU cooler.

The 4090 just doesn't seem worth the extra $800 I'd be paying, but I could be convinced otherwise. Likewise, going lower on the GPU would be considered if someone can present a compelling argument.

Motherboard: Gigabyte B650I AORUS ULTRA Mini ITX AM5
I have mixed feelings about this motherboard, but it does offer something that most mini-ITX boards don't seem to: 3 M.2 slots. My plan is to start with a fast 4 TB PCIe gen 4 drive, then potentially get a gen 5 a few years down the road and / or another gen 4 drive to hold more games and such. My current PC has around 6 TB of used drive space, but I could easily cut that down, and I plan on using my current PC as a "NAS" in the interim to get files off whenever I need instead of transferring everything over.

That said, this motherboard has a crazy amount of dongles and weird add-ons, which does put me off a bit. Reading and watching reviews does put me off of it a bit, and I could easily be convinced to get something else.

Storage: Crucial P3 Plus 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
This is one of the components I am the least sure about. I'm not sure how much the drive speeds really matter and even reading different manufacturer's info, it seems a bit over the place.

This drive seems fast enough, its 4 TB which seems to be the sweet spot of big enough for a while but not way more expensive, and allows me to keep my other two M.2 slots open for future expansion.

An issue with this case is there really is no place for a hard drive, which I think I'll miss. It is possible to fit a 2.5" SSD in the front, which I think I might do eventually, but I'll be maxed out at whatever space my M.2 drives have plus the single 2.5" SSD if I choose to do that.

I currently have a 10 TB HDD that I use to store games I don't frequently play, bulk files for image editing I want to save, and movies and shows that I have saved locally, but its currently only about half full.

Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30
RAM is RAM, and this has both the fastest speeds the 7800X3D can handle at 6000MHz, but also competitive latency. At least one of my friends has said to get 48 GB, but getting that much with as low latency is another $70 that I don't know is worth it.

PSU: Phanteks Revolt SFX 850 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX
This seems to be the best option that is both SFX and not SFX-L, which should give me enough room to install a slim case fan right below the PSU, but also has a 16-pin connector for the GPU. I was tempted to get the Corsair SF750 which is $40 cheaper, is certified via Cybenetics and has more good reviews, but that PSU doesn't have a 16-pin connector and instead needs to combine some other connectors, at least according to PCPP, which I fear would make cable management even harder in an already hard system to cable manage.
 

you gonna open that box and it'll be full of rocks

I vote LTT Store block all EU IP ranges instead

if you already took it apart, then plug it into your usb-c to sata adapter and let it sit for like a minute, then feel around the pcb and see if any part of it or any component is getting really hot.
like so hot you cant hold a finger to it.

that's about the only ssd failure that is recoverable from, it's almost always a capacitor fails short and the drive cant get enough power to turn on

I googled it for you

 


its some coolermaster AIO

I'm not sure what you would or wouldnt be missing.
by buying it you enter a contract where Boost Infinite will charge you $70.28 per month for 36 months, and if you cancel any time before the 36 months, you get fined for it.
so you are paying $2500 for the phone and service and the service is lmao boost so its completely not worth it. Though you can trade it in for the next iphone every 12 months at the extension of another 12 months on your contract, which is also not worth it.

huh, so it doesn't. well still. why make an account and ask here instead of spend less time and effort using a subnet calculator

and for the actual question, the wording is really bad, and there are only implied restrictions.
like they expect you to say something like use a /30 for A and a /27 for B but its perfectly valid to just give each a /25
like you have 192.168.25.0/24 so just split it evenly, 192.168.25.0/25 and 192.168.25.128/25. 

and still you have to show your work on the back as stated so why not just do it

did you take this pic with a webcam from 1996?

You should back up all your data while the phone is still usable, in case it gets any worse. After that, try the basics like restart it, mes with brightness control, enable or disable high refreshrate. but tbh it looks like its busted

my setup is totally worse rn
 

I vote LTT Store block all EU IP ranges instead

couple of key words
"ffc" the white cable with blue end things
"pitch" the measurement in mm from center of contact to center of next contact
"pin" amount of pins

so "ffc 0.5mm pitch 9 pin"
thats like 80% to what you need

im assuming if its 9 pins and 10mm wide its probably 0.5mm pitch, heres one listing that offers that in various lengths. you probably want to verify the pitch tho
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806568124167.html

just copy all those values line by line into ebay.com and then go with the lowest price and add it all up, thats what the value of the raw parts are and you can compare that to the $1800.

in almost all cases, built pcs all get listed for more than the sum of the parts, but in all cases are WORTH less than the sum of their parts due to demand.

my setup is totally worse rn
 

huh, so it doesn't. well still. why make an account and ask here instead of spend less time and effort using a subnet calculator

and for the actual question, the wording is really bad, and there are only implied restrictions.
like they expect you to say something like use a /30 for A and a /27 for B but its perfectly valid to just give each a /25
like you have 192.168.25.0/24 so just split it evenly, 192.168.25.0/25 and 192.168.25.128/25. 

and still you have to show your work on the back as stated so why not just do it

idk what they even said but tbh who cares. words dont hurt, swords hurt

if you dont need a bootable backup, just copy the contents of the drive into a folder on a different drive.
if you are running into permission issues, then right click this folder, and go to properties, security,advanced, new window pops up and change the owner.
or maybe it was take ownership, still in this advanced window, you should be able to change all the setttings and then check the box to replace all child object permission entries blah blah

you should somehow verify that power cable is wired correctly, try to follow the wires back to the psu and see if they match with a known good one, It could be the wire was made wrong and youve just never used it before?
or perhaps somehow its been plugged into the wrong port on the psu?