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About Wyllio

  • Title
  • Birthday February 28

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Reddit

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New York
  • Interests
    Computers, Gaming, Headphones, Speakers, Photography


  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 3950X
  • Motherboard
    Asus ROG Strix X570-I
  • RAM
    G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3600MHz CL16
  • GPU
    EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti XC ULTRA
  • Case
    Ncase M1 V6.1
  • Storage
    Inland Premium 2TB NVMe SSD, Intel 660p 2TB NVMe SSD, Toshiba OCZ Trion 150 960GB
  • PSU
    Corsair SF600 Platinum
  • Display(s)
    LG 34GK950F-B
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kraken X53
  • Keyboard
    Ducky One 2 SF - Cherry MX Brown
  • Mouse
    Razer Viper
  • Sound
    Beyerdynamic DT 177X GO, Campfire Audio Andromeda, Dan Clark Audio Aeon 2, Focal Elex, KEF LS50, RME ADI-2 DAC, Focusrite Scarlet Solo 3rd Gen, Deity S-Mic 2S
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit

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  1. Micro LEDs are made on wafers, the same as CPUs that have transistors in the nano-meter scale. So, I don't really see how it is impossible to have a high screen resolution in an extremely small package. Cost being the only barrier to entry.
  2. Yup, as long as you have the current line in settings with the "Listen to this device" toggled on.
  3. I can't really think of anything besides uninstalling and reinstalling your audio drivers. As a safety measure you should probably also uninstall any software that changes or controls sound.
  4. I always only buy keyboards with PBT keycaps since my fingers for whatever reason seem to be pretty oily. Within a few months the ABS keycaps would start to look shiny from the oils polishing the plastic surface. Most ABS keycaps that allow RGB light to shine through are usually white underneath and coated in black for the legend. So in addition to the caps polishing, the legends on my most used keys would start to fade. This happened on the Logitech G810 and a replacement set of caps for the proprietary Romer-G switches was $25 which would still give me the same problem later. No such issues with double-shot PBT keycaps. In terms of which keyboard brands, I always like Ducky keyboards since they have the tightest tolerance for switch variance, possibly from some internal switch binning. And they come with double-shot PBT keycaps. I would pick up the Ducky One 2 TKL. I'm not sure how shipping works in the EU, but CaseKing and CandyKeys are offical retailers for Ducky keyboards. The only scenario I see the Glorious GMMK or the Logitech G Pro X would be worth buying is if you intend to use hot-swappable switches. Otherwise you are paying more for features you don't use.
  5. I think what you're doing is overloading the microphone and giving it too much gain/power. I'd assume that there is more gain on your desktop than laptop. So I would go into the control panel and slowly increase the "Levels" until you reach the point where it overloads or "screams". Then just get it back the last level setting that worked fine to get the maximum volume.
  6. I pick up the Hifiman Sundara if you're looking for planar magnetic headphones. Or if you're willing to buy used, then I would probably reccomend the Audeze LCD-2 which has better sound stage and much better bass slam. For the amp, I would go with the Schiit Magni Heresy if you're looking for absolute clarity and unchanged sound and just power amplification to the headphones. Or get the Schiit Magni 3+ if you want an amp to slightly change the sound to be a little warm. The DAC I would reccomend the Schiit Modi 3 measures slightly better and stacks nicely with the Schiit amp, or the Topping D30.
  7. IMO Canon has dropped the ball when it comes to video and allowed other companies to surpass them, the two best options are Panasonic or Sony. If you're willing to spurge on a single camera then get the Panasonic GH5S and skip the kit lens. You can do multiple cuts instead of recording from multiple cameras. Cheaper camera options would be the Panasonic G9 or Panasonic G7. For the lenses, get the Panasonic Leica DG Vario-Elmarit 12-60mm f/2.8-4 or a cheaper option Panasonic Lumix G Vario 12-60 mm/F 3.5-5.6 On the Sony side you could buy the Sony a6500 and pair it with the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 Art. SD cards you can go with any of the name brands with the storage you need; Sandisk, Lexar, Sony, or Transend. Just make sure it is an UHS-II card, that is must otherwise you won't meet the requirements to record at full bandwidth in 4K. A quick search on Amazon UK shows the Lexar Professional 2000x as the cheapest option. And for convenience I think the RØDELink Filmmaker Kit is decent. Good lavailer microphones usually cost in excess of $1000.
  8. You can also go with the Schiit Fulla 3, but it is currently out of stock. Otherwise, I don't see many good options below €150 besides the ones already mentioned.
  9. You got it wrong. Toslink optical is a digital format in the form of a light beam. Most toslink cables end in the standard box protecting actual glass/plastic fiber cable around it. What you did was just remove the outer plastic box/border since some Toslink connections use the 3.5mm standard. While the 3.5mm line in at the back of your motherboard is an analog 3.5mm audio jack. If you want to send audio from your Xbox to your PC that way then you need a DAC that converts the toslink optical into 3.5mm audio out. Then you can use it as a line in.
  10. Just a heads up on the Etymotics. You have to literally rape your ear canals to get them deep enough to seal right. Otherwise they are going to sound pretty bad and flat. After a while you will get use to doing it. They use the triple flange tips, so comfort might not be the best. But the positive from such a deep insertion is the best noise isolation of an in-ear monitors. Worked extremely well in situations like an airplane, blocks the noise without any active noise cancellation.
  11. IMO the Fiio desktop DAC/Amp combos are pretty poor performing and feel cheaply made, on the other hand their portable DAC/Amp are pretty good. I would probably go with the iFi Zen DAC based on your options.
  12. Depends on what sound signature you like and are looking for. Both in-ears are quite outdated and outclassed by other options. The Shure SE535 are mid focused and completely tone deaf in the treble and bass from my memory when I used to own them. While the Sennheiser are V-shaped, personally never listened to them. At your price range I would take a look at the Fiio FH5 or the Etymotic ER2XR.
  13. For the headphones if you want open back I would go with the Sennheiser HD 58X or for closed back the AKG 371. As for the amplifier, I would recommend the Schiit Magni Heresy. But, if you the Magni Heresy with the ModMic then you would have to split the two cables. The headphone cable would be going to your amplifier and the microphone cable into the PC. Depending on far apart those two are, it might be an annoyance. If you want to keep the headphone and microphone cable together then I would look at buying the Schiit Fulla 3 or the Schiit Hel if you think you want more features and power.
  14. Then based on the options available on Amazon UK website. Best bets for bluetooth is the Sennheiser Momentum Free and for wired earphones I'd pick the Fiio F9 Pro or Focal Sphear S.
  15. The Hyperx Cloud Alphas are the better headphones since they have an updated driver design. However, if virtual 7.1 surround sound is important to you then go with the Cloud II. The Hyperx Cloud II comes with a USB dongle that gives it support for 7.1 virtual surround, while the Cloud Alphas uses a standard 3.5mm jack for headphone output and mic input.