GuitarBro

Actually, we can blame him for harming people with his catastrophic advice.
 
By the end of the video, he is presenting himself as a teacher that knows his stuff, and that corrects the rest of people who spread misinformation :
"So here's what this video is designed to do : to give you guys some help. [...] Share this video with someone that maybe you've seen sharing misinformation about power supplies so maybe you can get them on the right side of the conversation, spreading proper information rather than misinformation". 
 
Misinformation is exactly what he is doing, and as I'll explain, he doesn't help "newbies" in any way, he's actually harming them. 
 
What he tries to do in the video is tell people how to differentiate a good power supply from a bad one. And he failed at that. Miserably. 
 
________________
Before I start explaining why his video is so detrimental, let me first give here the answer that I wish he would have given to his audience. Then we can compare my answer (decent enough, hopefully) to his. 
 
What makes a good power supply (the "must-haves") :
- Qualitative power delivery (good voltage regulation, low ripple, good transient response, full delivery of rated power in hot environment [=< 40°C at the very least], ... ) 
- Safe to use/reliable (enough protections, effective protections that are properly set, good-enough cables, line filtering, good-enough hold-up time, appropriate range of voltage input...)
- Durability of the unit, build quality
- Low noise output
- Properly priced 
 
Nice things to have :
- Environment and electricity bill friendly (=efficiency)
- Monitoring
- Compact
- Cables that are easy to use
- Esthetics (special colors, RGB, nice-looking cables...) 
 
How to know whether you should buy a PSU or not :
1/ Establish your needs
- how many watts do you need?
- how qualitative does the PSU need to be?
  -> read what knowledgeable people have to say about your system's requirements 
 
2/ Does the PSU satisfy your needs? 
- read trustworthy professional reviews
- learn how to interpret the results of the testings
- read what knowledgeable people have to say about said unit 
 
3/ Make sure it's the best option that you have
- see if there are other options available
- ask knowledgeable people to help you choose the best option 
 
________________________
 
Now let's analyze what Jay was saying in the video. I'll only mention the purely harmful stuff, and not quote all of the incorrect stuff, because my point is to explain why his video is harmful. 
 
1'10'' :  "Cheap power supplies are not so much more prone to blowing up your system as they are prone to blowing up their own components". 
 
This is not poorly explained, this is straight up false. Wild ripple will not just harm the PSU, it will also cook the hardware to which the power is delivered. And there's more to this. Voltage regulation is critical as well. If you buy a cheap power supply thinking : "it's bad, but Jay said it will only harm itself, not the expensive GPU that ate all of my budget", you're being mislead. 
 
2'35'' : So, a must-have, imo, is a good quality power supply with good components. Now how do you know if it's a good quality component? How do you know if it's a good power supply? Well, there's something called 80+ rating. [...]  But the only way you can get those ratings and the efficiency higher is just having a power supply that's better at doing its job, and by doing that, you're talking about a much better design and component inside". 
 
Again, not poorly phrased/explained, straight up false. Efficiency has nothing to do with the overall quality of the PSU, as you can design an efficient PSU that's utter garbage. 
 
AND THAT'S ALL HE HAD TO SAY ABOUT THE QUALITY OF THE PSU.
He directly switches to the "nice-to-haves" right after that sentence (4'37'').
Therefore his conclusion is : Qualitative PSU = PSU with high efficiency rating (from a reputable brand). 
 
He proceeds to say (7'23'') that "gold efficiency is the baseline, the main standard".
How is this harmful? People who "learn" from the video will reach the conclusion that an 80+ gold PSU from a "reputable" brand is good enough, and they end up buying units like the Gigabyte GP-PGM and the Deepcool DQ-M-V2L to power their midrange GPU. 
 
Most importantly, by saying "in order to choose your power supply, 80+ gold from a reputable brand is good enough", he's saying : "that's all you need to know to choose your PSU, there's nothing more to it". Which leads people to do zero research and just spend their money on the wrong units. 
 
Same thing with his final recommendation :
15'28'' : "Jay, I just want you to tell me what to get. Fine, I can tell you right now : 80+ gold, 850w power supply from any reputable brand". 
 
Flagship Ampere GPUs have proven to cause issues with a number of 80+ gold 850w units from "reputable" brands. 
 
How salty would you be if you had been convinced to buy something like an 850w Prime GX for your 10900k - 3090 FTW3 combo, only to find out that the thing isn't good enough? 
 
Him explaining a few things doesn't cancel out the wrong stuff. The goal of the video, teaching how to tell the good units from the bad ones, is not reached by any mean. That video is not just useless, it's harmful.

Budget? I'd probably recommend a enermax revolution D.F 850w or a antec earthwatts gold pro 650w. The BQ is a pretty bad PSU. 
Also, the 5800x runs quite hot and isn't great value (5600x, 6 cores $300 || 5800x, 8 cores, $449|| 5900x, 12 cores, $549. In-game performance difference between the chips aren't huge)/ What will you be doing with your pc? I'd probably recommend a 5600x if you're gaming, it'll save you a fair bit of money ($150 for the cpu, probably $60+ for the cooler since you can just use stock) andyou won't sacrifice much performance. 

Hey Guys,

I think I missed last year but it's hard to put these lists together with 4 boys in grade school. I'm gonna try to do this and keep it updated but we are doing virtual learning this year and I'm working from home. If you see some updates or new deals you want added to the list post them and I'll try me best to update it on the Google Doc. Happy holidays!

https://docs.google.com/document/d/19M5_hpboin3xqMQ8eULSbA83Id86MC3utcdAkcx7yts/edit?usp=sharing

Ok, I have gotten the monitor and it seems to be 75hz, 

I'm in the midst of putting together my annual Black Friday, Cyber Monday, and everything in between and all around Holiday Deals list. I do this each year to keep organized all the deals for myself but share it in a Google Doc for other to use too. Just don't buy out the things I'm trying to get!  Also, I update it fairly frequently during the next couple weeks so feel free to check back.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-_NF0QvxGSCyKZ3r6xg0mS4xlrlVY8EJtrAL2osyfg0/edit?usp=sharing

So I use a 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit for a lot of stuff and felt like the speeds were slower when it was a lot hotter. This drive gets not able to be held hot after being in my laptop for a while. 
 
Decided to test it using this method: http://www.binarytides.com/linux-test-drive-speed/ 
Results (of my crude test) were... Not definite. It seems to favor being cool for writing but reads faster while hot. 
Full test included at bottom of post. 
 
This is relevant because I've been looking to cool down my drive (since using/saving "seemed" slower, though I'm unsure after now testing). I can't put something like a heat sink on as it sticks out less than a cm. Haven't given it much thought, but I did stumble upon this: http://thanko.jp/shopdetail/000000002619/ , which would work well for this. Basically, having a water bottle with small fish tank pump going through a tube (which could wrap around the drive). Cheap water cooling with not really any risk.  
 
 
Full test: (Note, started 1st test while too hot to touch. I took out the drive and put it on a metal surface to cool each "------" break. The "sync" lines are to clear the caches to make sure it's actually doing a transfer, not using the cache)
$ dd if=/dev/zero of=./largefile bs=1M count=1024 1024+0 records in 1024+0 records out 1073741824 bytes (1.1 GB) copied, 325.801 s, 3.3 MB/s $ dd if=/dev/zero of=./largefile bs=1M count=1024 1024+0 records in 1024+0 records out 1073741824 bytes (1.1 GB) copied, 137.217 s, 7.8 MB/s $ dd if=/dev/zero of=./largefile2 bs=1M count=4096 4096+0 records in 4096+0 records out 4294967296 bytes (4.3 GB) copied, 316.554 s, 13.6 MB/s $ sudo sh -c "sync && echo 3 > /proc/sys/vm/drop_caches" $ dd if=./largefile of=/dev/null bs=4k 262144+0 records in 262144+0 records out 1073741824 bytes (1.1 GB) copied, 9.94723 s, 108 MB/s $ dd if=./largefile2 of=/dev/null bs=4k 1048576+0 records in 1048576+0 records out 4294967296 bytes (4.3 GB) copied, 38.7523 s, 111 MB/s ----------------------------------------------------------- Avg write: 8.23 MB/s | Avg read: 109.5 MB/s ----------------------------------------------------------- $ dd if=/dev/zero of=./largefile bs=1M count=1024 1024+0 records in 1024+0 records out 1073741824 bytes (1.1 GB) copied, 162.251 s, 6.6 MB/s $ sudo sh -c "sync && echo 3 > /proc/sys/vm/drop_caches" $ dd if=./largefile of=/dev/null bs=4k 262144+0 records in 262144+0 records out 1073741824 bytes (1.1 GB) copied, 17.7766 s, 60.4 MB/s ----------------------------------------------------------- Avg write: 6.6 MB/s | Avg read: 60.4 MB/s ----------------------------------------------------------- $ dd if=/dev/zero of=./largefile bs=1M count=1024 1024+0 records in 1024+0 records out 1073741824 bytes (1.1 GB) copied, 55.6096 s, 19.3 MB/s $ sudo sh -c "sync && echo 3 > /proc/sys/vm/drop_caches" $ dd if=./largefile of=/dev/null bs=4k 262144+0 records in 262144+0 records out 1073741824 bytes (1.1 GB) copied, 17.5442 s, 61.2 MB/s ----------------------------------------------------------- Avg write: 19.3 MB/s | Avg read: 61.2 MB/s ----------------------------------------------------------- $ dd if=/dev/zero of=./largefile bs=1M count=1024 1024+0 records in 1024+0 records out 1073741824 bytes (1.1 GB) copied, 24.4734 s, 43.9 MB/s $ sudo sh -c "sync && echo 3 > /proc/sys/vm/drop_caches" ----------------------------------------------------------- Avg write: 43.9 MB/s | Avg read: ---- MB/s ----------------------------------------------------------- $ dd if=./largefile of=/dev/null bs=4k 262144+0 records in 262144+0 records out 1073741824 bytes (1.1 GB) copied, 20.6621 s, 52.0 MB/s ----------------------------------------------------------- Avg write: ---- MB/s | Avg read: 52.0 MB/s -----------------------------------------------------------  

Those wouldn't be much of a concern still, NVME USB drives do exist and even those don't have any problems with sustaining speeds with good heatsinking. While I guess you can watercool it there wouldn't be a need since you can simply add a couple of heatsinks and call it a day.
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=612

The key to replacing a laptop LCD panel is whether or not the panel uses LVDS, or eDP.  And of course, physical compatibility. 
 
http://www.panelook.com/LP156WF4-SPL1_LG Display_15.6_LCM_overview_22815.html
 
The panel appears to be 30-pin eDP.  So you should be able to replace it with a 30pin eDP model. 
 
Unfortunately for you, full-colour panels in the 15.6" form factor, IPS, seem to be rare:
 
http://www.panelook.com/sizmodlist.php?st=&pl=&sizes[]=15.6&application=NBPC&display_mode_lc_family=IPS&resolution_pixels=19201080&signal_type_category=eDP&page=2
 
http://www.panelook.com/LTN156HL06-C01_Samsung_15.6_LCM_overview_24666.html
 
 
You potentially could use this opportunity to transition to a 4K panel though.   There are 3 4K panels which would meet your specs.  But 4K would depend upon whether your laptop's electronics could handle it.   Would be a very unique laptop though if you could source and integrate that panel :).
 
http://www.panelook.com/sizmodlist.php?st=&pl=&sizes[]=15.6&application=NBPC&display_mode_lc_family=IPS&signal_type_category=eDP&resolution_pixels=38402160

*cough gtx 1050 ti heh

Just an update: Cooler Master confirmed this isn't normal and requested I send it back in for a replacement.

Sure, forgot about that.

https://theunsanity.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/gloriouspc.jpg
 

*expecting a dGPU* *sad*

"After the Oven 350 benchmark, they have to cool down for 15 minutes before you can bench them again."
 
baller.

That Reddit Tread is GLORIOUS. 
 

Sadly given that I'm in college, I don't have any computers to tear apart other than mine...
 
shoot that reminds me i need to dust my pc.
 
   
HAHA ... yeah .... i feel you 
 
 
Newegg wishlists instead of pcpartpicker builds? 

The Internet Archive has preserve classic games by making them playable in your browser; the group's efforts have covered everything from MS-DOS games to titles from the arcades. And now you don't even have to leave Twitter to play some of them.

The feature only works for MS-DOS games right now, Games includes everything from the original Street Fighter and Metal Gear games to beloved classics like Where in the World is Carmen Sandiego? and The Oregon Trail.   
 
Source:
http://www.theverge.com/2015/4/30/8520237/internet-archive-embed-classic-games-twitter

AVG Anti-Virus free is a good rout to go. Also go with Avast if you want.

NO!
nobody use macafee, its horrible, like norton or worse
 
also you should not be paying for an antivirus, there are free options that are perfectly fine

Ziftr claims to guarantee coins values at 1$ or more so I'd hold onto some of them personally.

This Hot Deal has 6 pages already.
I guess you could say this deal got us all.. Hooked on it.

So tempted to jump on these deals, but with PCIe SSDs around the corner, not sure if it's worth it (since I already have one as a boot drive).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148696
 
$10 USD off - EMCAPPK92

I had this same problem.  You have to move that file into the directory where you miner is located.  Search for it on your system and perhaps download the latest Cuda sdk online if you can't find the file (that's what I did). Once that dll file is in with the miner it should hopefully fix that problem.

Well, still no update as of now... 15 minutes late.