Arucad

I clicked the wrong thing. I'm gonna use the same kit but 2x16GB.

Are you focused on aesthetics aswell or would you be fine with using another CPU cooler?
 
But, you might be able to fit your current one,
I searched the CPU cooler you have on list on pcpartpicker and I looked  at builds that use it,
then I found AM5 system, and I found a system that uses the exact same motherboard you plan using,
here's the picture of the case's inside and link to the build: (as you can see the cooler doesn't go over the RAM sticks)
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/QLLPxr
 
 

 

Also is you going 64GB RAM because you wanna keep the PC for as long as possible before upgrading?

Looking at the product's page, it seems like having the fan over the VRM heatsink is the "normal" orientation, and they specifically list incompatible motherboards.
Your chosen board is not in it, so I would reckon you should be fine.
 
Out of curiosity, any reason you're going for this specific cooler? I would assume aesthetics, but who knows.
 
Edit: Damnit, ninja'ed while I was looking it up 😅

Great!
I should be deleting one, since I'll be checking the ID in queue (Advanced Control Panel). 
I tried it and it worked. Sadly it happens kind of often so I i'll need to be checking on it frequently.
Thanks for the help!

Working as expected.
In windows you are never going to see the x50 multiplier with turbo boost and rarely the x49 multiplier when at load.  Windows task scheduler constantly shifts tasks between different threads and there are background processes also running on more than one thread.  This interferes with turbo boost.
If you use Throttlestop 8.70+ to monitor clock speeds (instead of HWinfo64) and set it to "More data", you may see your x49 or x50 more often.  I don't think HWinfo64 will update faster than 250ms per poll.
 
If you really want to see the higher ratios active at lower loads, you need to run something like Linux.

just the voltages and the clock speeds you showed above, stock settings are not precise, 1.29v 4.7 is already decent, assuming it runs 4.7 on 1.26v and you have a verygood chip.

I'd like to note that this PSU was taken from a OEM PC (Lenovo) that has a motherboard with a single 4pin powering the i7-2600 that is in it. 
I read that the i7-2600 consumes more power than the Xeon and it's been working for years without problems. I think it should be fine.

Okay, it turned out that the PSU's cables are way too short, since it's designed to be at the top of the case.
Both 24pin an 4pin cables are not long enough (by far) to reach their designated spot.
On the test boot tho, it posted and everything was fine.
We ordered another PSU tho, can't deal with short cables.

I'm afraid many posters in this thread have spent far too long around the marketing hype and extreme high end. A single 4 pin ATX12V connector should handle up to around 190W (the connector itself - how much that PSU supplies is obviously going to be less). If you have a CPU which doesn't use much power a single 4 pin is perfectly acceptable. Look under the hood in tons of business PCs with i7s and lo and behold - a 230-300W PSU with a single 4-pin ATX12v. It's not sacrilege as these people are saying, it's pretty much the norm. Your super deluxe extra mega extreme ultra edition motherboards include multiple ATX12v connectors mostly "for the lulz" -  connecting all them may help add stability in an extreme overclocking situation for an already high-wattage CPU. However, there's a good chance on a common i7 even on your 1337 board you could function just fine with a single 4 pin. It depends on your PSU obviously for how much it'll put out a single 4-pin but most CPUs are not consuming more than 150W. This means it's entirely feasible for a PSU to be designed to supply sufficient power over that single 4 pin

In most PCs the only real advantage you're getting from an 8 pin connector is slightly lower resistances - because you're nowhere close to overloading even a single 4 pin let alone 2 4-pins or 2 8-pins.

Sucks about the cable length - I've had the same issue with trying to re-use PSUs from OEM PCs. They combine unique motherboard layouts for where the power connectors are placed with custom PSUs with cables just long enough to reach their customized mobo. It's slick in the OEM PC, but an absolute no-go for anything else

yeah, I read that I should stay below 62 degrees C on Package and 71 degrees C on the socket. Correct?>

Guys, thanks you for your passion, but please, no need to argue so much over something so little. My question was not so specific.

Yeah, I've seen tests that show how much performance it gets.
It just feels like people don't read my first post completely, which is kind of reasonable, and still though...

it's either a corrupt os, a virus or a damaged psu (it's most likely a virus because it's happened to me before) just get avira or avast and malwarebytes and see if that helps

Your description of the problem seems to fit with a problem I had previously. I had a damaged sata cable and it caused frequent freezes although games would still play. Browsers stop loading the page even though I can click it. Explorer also becomes unresponsive. I urge you to do a check on both your SSD and HDD. Also swap out the sata cable with a fresh new one to see if the problem still persists.