dzonidev

Well guess it's time for an update. After the renovations, most of the gear got relocated. I've used up around 350ft of UTP cable. Added and removed some devices. Slowly moving over to 1Gbps...
 

 
Made sure the crucial parts of the network are not getting congested. As you can see I'm not heavy on WiFi because there are a lot of networks around me and almost every channel has around 5 networks within the 50-80dB range. The network is now IPv6 enabled, however I won't see ISP side IPv6 for a few years...
 
Side Note: The GS116 is generating a LOT of heat, I guess the form factor has it's flaws.

Here in Serbia, I just don't see an adoption of IPv6 in the next 4-5 years, simply because ISPs buy the cheapest CPE on the market which absolutely has no support for IPv6 and then keep them in service, until they are unusable or they die.
 
The interesting thing is, that most of our core infrastructure is already running IPv6, but the ISP equipment is the bottleneck.
 
Most of the ISPs started to do CG NAT, which is horrifying, honestly. I know one ISP, runs around 9000 clients on a /24..

No you don't need to use the internet port. If you have DSL, plug it into the DSL and configure the login details your ISP gave you. The WAN port is there if at some point you decide to switch to cable, then you would have a cable modem which you would have to plug into the WAN port.

That PSU is a bit sketchy. If you want it to last for 3-4 years you need to get something better.

Unfortunately that's just inflation where OP lives. It may be best to get a better PSU at the expense of a worse CPU or GPU.
 
Most used hardware out there is still under warranty. If you bought my motherboard right now you'd still have a year of warranty left and it works perfectly fine, for example.

https://airlink.ubnt.com/
 
This will give you an idea of what to expect. You need to have a clear line of sight and you need to carefully align the antennas. This is a serious distance to be honest, from my experience on paper and in practice are two different worlds when it comes to wireless. As for the mounting height, the higher the better. For the equipment, in total you need about $600 USD.
 
Ubiquiti recommends Rocket 5AC + RocketDish LW for PtP links that go over 15km. And the speeds that you can expect are from 50 to 100Mbps if you have a decent setup. All in all, this is a big step to take and you should plan it very carefuly.

Unfortunately then your stuck in the same situation I was. Very few and I mean VERY few devices support PPPoE to PPPoA interception and conversion, Draytek is the only cheap consumer device I have found that can do it. There are more enterprise options from Cisco but that still isn't what you want.
 
You'll never get past the requirement of two devices if the firewall does not support the PPP mode the ISP uses. You need a device that initiates the DSL line and auths using PPPoA and then bridges the connection to the firewall. The Draytek does it in a special way called half-bridge and you put in the PPPoE settings on the WAN interface as if they were PPPoA (ISP username/pw) and the Draytek intercepts, converts and re-sends as PPPoA. There may be a different way of getting a similar end result but it's not plug and play.
 
Your in luck however if you haven't already brought the firewalls or can return them. Juniper SRX110 has inbuilt ADSL/VDSL modems and can naively use PPPoA. 

https://airlink.ubnt.com/
 
This will give you an idea of what to expect. You need to have a clear line of sight and you need to carefully align the antennas. This is a serious distance to be honest, from my experience on paper and in practice are two different worlds when it comes to wireless. As for the mounting height, the higher the better. For the equipment, in total you need about $600 USD.
 
Ubiquiti recommends Rocket 5AC + RocketDish LW for PtP links that go over 15km. And the speeds that you can expect are from 50 to 100Mbps if you have a decent setup. All in all, this is a big step to take and you should plan it very carefuly.

I really doubt it will give better speed than your current router from ISP, since your Internet is only 50M/10M, which most cheap router is fast enough to route all those packets, especially on less than 10 users environment. I see it as just wasting extra power to power the x86 system (Not really sure what is Atom 230 power consumption looks like). You could still try pfSense or OpenWRT. Just buy another 100M PCI card and you are good.
 
I am more a Mikrotik guy, so I really prefer Mikrotik more.
It is only possible on 1Gbps when fast track and very minimal set of firewall rules, which is probably what the OP usage was. If fast track not enabled it only routes 200M-300M. If performance wise, I believe Ubiquiti has much more better performance device with the same price. I still use Mikrotik just because the Winbox GUI and how easy to configure the mangle, packet connection mark, etc.

Was part of some beta testing for my ISP. They unlocked my connection..
 

 
Fiber does wonders...

Ubiquiti LR has a better range. For me the rule of thumb 800+ sqft = 2> AP. You are getting a decent range for 1600sqft...

Was part of some beta testing for my ISP. They unlocked my connection..
 

 
Fiber does wonders...

not sure on the exchange rate but just like I posted to another user. This is what I am using and it is fantastic with great coverage. I am using it in AP mode but router mode should work just as well.
 
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-RT-AC1200-802-11ac-Wireless-Router/dp/B01ATNHG36/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1468310087&sr=1-1&keywords=RT-AC1200

If you have an attic or a basement like @JaredM54 said, you could do this much easier. Attic would be the best option because the space between walls except for the concrete walls is open to the attic and you could get away without even drilling anything.
 
YouTube Tutorial

It just bothers me to see my brother growing in such a generation that is broken...teens 13-15 thru his town selling drugs and smoking cigars and hookah...i dont love smoking,i hate smoking and i dont hang out with friends who smoke and if they smoke i strictly try to keep them away and the minimum! do you if your 12-15 live with this or if you have a bother or somebody is it like this in your town?

Konacno srbin...

Welcome everybody to my latest log! This one is a remake of a simple build done a few years ago for someone else,this time im remaking it for me,hopefully with none of the facepalm that comes with a sequel!
The latest victim is the 'hot from the press' Caselabs BH4,a case designed by Jim and his hardworking team to be a compact case for aircoolers....well...Challenge Accepted as I dont do aircoolers so this build will be a Sli,fully watercooled rig instead.
Most of you know,if you cut me in half then the words In Win can clearly be seen like a stick of rock....however,when a case gets my interest then Im going to have to have a go at stamping my style on it,this is one of those cases!
First off,lets look at the case.
As usual,Caselabs have gone for a thick gauge Alu but opted for a clamshell design rather than the traditional frame and panel design favored by most manufacturers. This saves on weight and materials which is why im guessing Caselabs dont charge the earth for it. Its compact,really compact...however I have a second lower clamshell which will be flipped to make a small rad bay underneath (more on that in the pics). I also went for the dual window option because...who wouldnt?!? Finish is,for now,Caselabs excellent primer finish,I have used this before and found it excellent so I saw no reason not to use it again,thanks to Jim for that as i know its a PITA to change out colours and primers for just one case!
 

 

 

 
Caselabs provide well for storage fiends! 4x 2.5 and 2x 3.5 mounts no less.

 

 
Board in place...
 

 

 
You can see from the pics that I have mounted standoff's to  the lower section,this will mount the panel that will hold the rads and the vanity panel on the front.
 

 

 

 


You will probably guess that fitting the GPU's with waterblocks will be hard...well,it is with my choice of cards,the excellent ASUS 980Ti Strix cards,as they are HUGE! Not to worry tho,there will be a form fitting cutout on top to allow the cards and blocks some space.
The GPU's,courtesy of ASUS UK! I went for the awesome 908Ti Strix as availability of a second 1080FE to go with the one I have already was next to non existent. Who cares tho when they are as good as this!
 

 

 

 

 
You can see how tight it is when I did the shakedown...

 
 
The RAM courtesy of the excellent team at KLEVV,a new sponsor for me and provider of some sexy sophisticated looking RAM,this is their DDR4 CRAS kit....so cool looking! Thanks KLEVV!
 

 

 
The motherboard,the awesome X99m WS platform,this was provided by my mate Tom Logan @OC3D,once he found out what I was doing and how much I wanted to use that board,he selflessly offered me his one from his ASUS pron stash!! Good Work that Man!!!
 

 

 

 

 
And with that gorgeous RAM in situ
 

 

 
Its like KLEVV had a picture of that board next to the designers workstation with the memo 'Make it look awesome on that board'....
 
Watercooling ,as always,comes from the best,EK. Derick was excited to hear of my collaboration with the ever awesome Caselabs so it was not a hard choice to make!
 

 
As you can see,this will need a post all of its own!
 
PSU's are in the form of dual Corsair SFX series,no ATX will fit in the gap and those GPU's are not on a diet so the back panel will be modded to hold 2 of these,a 600w for the CPU and 1 GPU while the other smaller 450w unit has the second GPU and the ancillary equipment.
 

 
Im not giving to much away on this yet but you can count on paint,lots of metal cutting and a dirty great res in the front!!
Thanks to the teams at Caselabs,ASUS UK,KLEVV,The constantly awesome EK and me old mucker Tom Logan at OC3D for providing me with the support time and again to do what I love. Big kisses guys XX :thumb:

Sneaky peek at the backplates?
 

And now the blocks are fitted!
Enjoy the pics.

Actually we have NO IDEA how long the Pokemon Go fad will last. It could easily die out before the Worldwide release is even finished (especially since you can download the APK package from third party sites immediately).
 
This is one of those videos where (whether you think it's a good video or not), it needs to take advantage of maximum "hype". They needed to release it RIGHT AWAY to capture that immediate Pokemon Go craze that is happening right now.
 
That craze might last another few weeks or months... or it might be gone in 3 days.
 
I don't fault them at all for that.
 
Granted, I haven't watched the video yet, so I cannot comment on the quality of the video itself.

Why not get an Access Point? Something like UniFi Ac Pro would be maybe even overkill. It's not a router though so you don't get all those fancy features...
 
If I were to choose from your list, I'd probably go for the Nighthawk, it's proven to be really good.

DNS
 
Change it to:
8.8.8.8
8.8.4.4 

There is actually no reason to use one vs the other, as long as you're standardizing your wiring. Any modern networking device can connect to a cable wired with 568A or 568B. Performance should be identical for both. I simply use 568B because that seems to be more standardized in Canada, but in other locations, 568A is more common. As long as you wire all your ethernet cables the same way, it won't make a difference.
 
Hell, even if you wire each cable differently, as long as both ends of the same cable have the same wiring standard, it should all still work fine.
 
However, I still recommend 568B, because, why not? It's what's commonly used here anyway, so might as well.

Yeah.. I'm with you on the port situation. I had a similar issue, my main PC from 2012 has a 10/100 port. Don't know why...
 
You've got 2 choices, either move the storage server to your room for the time being or experience the blessings of a 10/100 port.

@Adodger22
Firstly nice Necro there, gg.
 
Secondly you need to realise that speedtest isn't a good measure of how fast your internal network speed is. Network speeds are limited by bottlenecks and in general when running an internet speedtest your internet connection is the bottleneck. Also yes there are Wireless adapters that have a link rate of "1Gbps" but that doesn't mean they actually run at full Gigabit speeds. The best ones can push 500-600Mbps sustained transfers or so in fairly ideal conditions. That's assuming you have a full signal, no other traffic (especially from slower clients) and are obviously connected to the 5Ghz band.
 
But if you want to guarantee Gigabit? You have to go wired.