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FIXXX

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Everything posted by FIXXX

  1. Get ready for the comments indicating that the 3000 Mhz RAM on a B350 board will not match up well - and that you may as well pay less for a simpler set of RAM.
  2. But I dun wannnnna So many config files, save files, settings, comfy stuff But I'll make sure to do a full backup of the OS drive. Then activate and see for a while.
  3. Windows 10 Pro retail costs $180 - $280. I'd rather get a new key every 3-4 years when I upgrade for $25 - than buy that retail key. Cannot justify such a huge expense with the wages people get in my country.
  4. I already did that once with this key and account. Not a complete hardware change, but Windows triggered a re-activation so I called them. Would rather not abuse this and then have my account flagged or something.
  5. Yup, i got that. Just want to be sure I'll be able to activate an existing installation - with a new key.
  6. Perhaps it's an obvious question - but I'll be switching to a totally different machine and I'm not 100% certain about how activation will work afterward. I use an OEM key that I got online a while back - so obviously I won't be able to easily re-active it. So - after I move the OS SSD and the other storage drives - do I just get a new key and activate the windows installation using that one. Right? Of course has to be a 10 Pro key - to match the installed version.
  7. One significant drawback with getting new - i'll have to buy from the US - and if RMA is necessary - have to ship from the ass-end of where I am - to wherever the RMA will be But still it's the safest way. Anyway, thanks for all the points of view. Appreciated!
  8. Don't have much money to throw around and then wait to be returned in a few weeks. Best option is to either get a local one and test. Or get a new one for full price - but know full-well that I didn't take unnecessary risks.
  9. That's what I'll do of course. Or rather i'll use my motherboard and RAM - at a local repair service. Already asked if they can help but they said they didn't have any AM4 boards yet. So i'll bring mine and both me and the seller will be safe in knowing their work-place or home are not disclosed to the public.
  10. As soon as I get a board - i'll ask the person if there's a chance they can get one more. Wanted to offer then to test 2-3 chips on my board - would serve us both - I'd get to know that my mobo was not DOA and he'd get a screenshot or two as proof for any buyers he'd have.
  11. Just a local website - the person had a few other tier ryzen chips, some Intels too, a few GPUs from the 900 series. It looked fairly up and up, but still - that would be enough money to get a brand new 1700x and the risk was there.
  12. Perhaps, but i'm not in the US or any other large market - so there's little-to-no used ryzen chips sold outside a few shops. And the seller did say it was a gray market item. Still I'm 90% sure I was wise to not buy it. Felt too good to be true, and like they say - free cheese ...
  13. Looking around at the used CPU market - I don't see that many Ryzens' out there. Obviously they're too fresh to be widely available, but just glad people are liking them. At the same time I see open-box ones or barely used ones for ~$100 less than the market price. How possible is that those are fakes? Asking because I've had a chance to get an 1800x for the equivalent of $360 but as my AM4 board is still in processing - didn't have a way to test, so had to give the idea up. Did I screw up - or was my caution warranted?
  14. Thank you! Monitoring VRM temps is not done through any built'in ways - but through an external probe or two I presume. There's a chance I can get an 1800x for ~$360 so that might chance things up a bit.
  15. Might have a good chance to get an r7 1800x for $360! Only thing is to find a service center to verify if its real and is stable under load...

  16. 3 HDDs, 2 SSDs. 1 fan in back, 1 on top, and 4 fans on the radiator for push-pull. The board only has so many 4-pin slots to have proper control. No way to add a good USB hub without a free PCI slot too. And besides that - both RAM slots are used with the RAM i had at hand and no way to add more. And it makes no financial sense to take out these ones and buy higher capacity. Just overall feels cramped. But if you truly are going to stick this into a hole and not touch it for a long time, perhaps it's a good use-case for you.
  17. The only thing I can remark on - is form factor of the mobo. From personal experience I've eventually felt limited by slots, sata ports, fan headers, etc.
  18. I don't expect to get more than reaching the 2933 Mhz point - so as not to bottleneck the CPU. I wonder, if I get the Prime X370 Pro - perhaps ill be able to stick with the r7 1700 and have much less fear of overclocking - this would reduce to zero the price difference among them. But still give more value - as the motherboard is in most respects much more important than the CPU.
  19. Mom always said to not be too frugal, so the extra 30 euro is something i can eat
  20. Already planning to account for the VRM, a single 120mm on low rotations should suffice. The Prime X370 Pro is more expensive though - the VRMs on that one is probably rated for higher temps then/ or is more of them to stabilize power output better?
  21. What about ASUS PRIME X370-A ? Just 10 euro more than the currently selector board.
  22. Euh, RGB. Didn't notice. So .. this would then be the alternative? G.Skill 16GB (Dual Channel Kit) 3200MHz DDR4 Trident Z Desktop Memory (F4-3200C16D-16GTZB) https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Channel-3200MHz-Trident-F4-3200C16D-16GTZB/dp/B015FY3BJ2/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506096478&sr=1-5&keywords=G.SKILL+TridentZ+16+GB+DDR4
  23. Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz C16 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143UM4TC/ vs G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR43200MHz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTDEYHU/ The timings appear to be the same, same potential frequency. Is there any significant difference there that would account the the price difference? Planning to use in an R7 1700 or X. Wouldn't mind getting a kit of 3000 Mhz, but there's a higher chance of being unable to get 2933 with that one. As far as I've understood - that's the one to reach. That's apparently where the issue with which chips you have, Micron, Hynix or Samsung. I don't want to overclock the memory manually, just apply XMP and leave it at that. Will have ASUS STRIX B350-F Gaming (https://www.computeruniverse.net/products/90696252/asus-strix-b350-f-gaming.asp). Not a significant gamer, will use it for multitasking with flash applications. Want to have a computer I can be satisfied with for at least 3 years or whatever.
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