Lotus

If you're using a single GPU, then any Z170 board will do. Motherboards do NOT have performance characteristics, just a feature and support set. Overclocking is a function of the chipset, and since no LGA1151 CPU has a high TDP, I haven't seen a Z170 board with insufficient VRMs for overclocking. The only thing you're going to get with a more expensive board are extra features, and if you don't use those extra features, you wasted your money. Just get a cheaper $100 Z170 board from a brand you trust and save the cash.

It's a bad overclock. That's the error you get when you've pushed it too far.

You have 30 mbps (mega bits per second). Steam shows in MB/s (mega-bytes per second). Two completely different metrics.

whoops, old thread.

I think you need a different motherboard, CPU, ram, and CPU cooler. What you selected is a very poor use of money. See if you can return the motherboard and ram.

edit: misread. I too agree with the Sandisk Ultra II http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M8ABHVQ/?tag=pcpapi-20

It should be able to play it, but maybe not at max settings. I wouldn't turn any kind of AA on, especially in a game like that. Do you already have this computer? That's a very important question.

You haven't actually overclocked anything. The i5-4590 goes to 3.7 GHz stock.

The best budget mouse IMO would be a Perixx MX-1800. It uses Avago A3090, which was the best sensor circa 2013, so newer and more expensive mice will have a higher tracking speed, but the MX-1800 still has "perfect" tracking with a a still very high tracking speed. It's also fully programmable with macros and has custom programmable RGB lighting. You can also swap side wings to fit your hand, but the weight isn't customizable. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Perixx-MX-1800B-Programmable-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B00ESESQAA/ and yeah, it's only £16. As far as keyboard, forget a mechanical keyboard. It doesn't matter. I have one, and the only difference I've noticed is going from a full keyboard to a tenkeyless keyboard. Stick with your membrane keyboard, and put all the rest into a good monitor. What monitor you get depends on your budget. If you can, I'd strongly suggest trying to get a 144hz monitor if you're planning on gaming.

If you're not concerned with looks, you can get a better performing build (in non-CPU/GPU areas) for less: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£168.99 @ Ebuyer) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£59.99 @ Ebuyer) Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£35.95 @ More Computers) Storage: Kingston HyperX Fury 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£36.23 @ Ebuyer) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.95 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card (£154.98 @ Ebuyer) Case: Fractal Design Core 1300 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£36.95 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: Super Flower Golden Green HX 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (£57.12 @ CCL Computers) Total: £590.16 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-05 19:39 BST+0100 You're paying a lot of money for stuff that really doesn't matter. The specific R9 380 you included is more expensive and IMO doesn't have a better cooler than the Sapphire Nitro. The Z170 board doesn't pair well with the non-K CPU, so it's extra featureset over the B150 is pointless. And so on. If you like the looks of your build and place value on that, then just use the PSU I'm including here.

Considering Intel XTU really doesn't produce a terrible amount of heat nor is it the most stressful software, you might want to re-check your cooling. You shouldn't be hitting those temps. 83°C will not harm your computer if it is not sustained for hours at a time multiple, multiple times. It's a "safe" temperature in that regards, but it also has more risk involved than sub-80°C because it's at the point where if your CPU were to stay at that temperature 24/7 for weeks, it will degrade your CPU over time. Basically, don't do this on a workstation rig that will constantly be rendering/folding, otherwise it's okay. Also, since XTU doesn't produce a lot of heat, it's possible certain programs will produce MORE heat than what you are testing right now, making it more dangerous. That being said, 83°C @ 1.29v with a liquid AIO seems unreasonably high to me.

Legitimately? You can't.

Upgrades are still being offered, and they are based upon each license key, not end user. Also, you do not upgrade the license. Rather what happens is that each license is allowed to one-time register a certain hardware configuration for Windows 10. Also, I strongly disagree with the use of grey market resellers. Places like G2A and Kinguin enable the sale of license keys outside of their intended market, against the TOS/EULA. Abusing out of region pricing is something I find morally wrong due to the nature of why that region is getting a cheaper price in the first place. This is also ignoring the chance for keys bought with stolen credit cards and MSDN keys.

You can have it connected to your motherboard as long as two things are true: 1) Whatever fan header you're connected to is set to 100% at all times. No curve 2) Your motherboard is capable of delivering the kind of power required via a fan header that the pump requires. This is not always the case. Remember, a pump is NOT a fan, and cannot be controlled like one.

That's wrong. The CPU header with default bios does NOT default to 100% constant fan line (not curve). You should use one of these to connect your pump directly to your PSU: It will eliminate the chance of you fucking up your bios settings and eliminate any current limitations of the board.

Is the pump connected to a fan header, or directly to the PSU? The pump should be running at 100% all the time, and connecting it directly to a sata power cable via an adapter is the best. Also, HOLY FUCK 1.46 VOLTS!? Turn that shit down! I wouldn't go over 1.35.

Same. I use an adblock, but whitelist anything I care enough to support, which includes many youtube and twitch channels. Since you can't whitelist a youtube channel, I have all of youtube whitelisted, and it's getting to the point where I'm going to turn blacklist it again simply due to how frustrating it is to have to sit through a 30 second unskippable ad to see if I want to watch this youtube video or not.

Most people would consider the board dead. Bending the small pins back is not possible for most people with average dexterity and tools. I've only ever heard of one person fixing it himself, and that was one pin not two.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H81M-H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($34.49 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI Radeon R7 370 2GB Video Card ($117.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Core 2300 ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $402.44 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-01 16:27 EDT-0400 This is assuming you have DDR3 and not DDR4. I prioritized the CPU over the GPU because it's much easier to turn GPU settings down. It's also much simpler to replace as a component.

Getting too hot is a matter of improper cooling, not a bad card. I could rip off a GTX 970's cooler and stick a pure aluminum heatsink on it and it would overheat and throttle. Wouldn't be the card's fault. Just make sure you get a good cooler when you get a high TDP chip. The GTX 980ti has the same problem as the R9 390X. The good R9 390 (and therefore 390X) coolers are: Sapphire Nitro, Powercolor PCS+, and the MSI one. I'd avoid all the others.

In that case swap the GPU out for a GTX 970, but IMO that's pandering. The R9 390 is better. Your build has a better case, but my build has an overclockable CPU and an SSD. It even wins on ram. because the h170 boards usually can't run anything faster than 2133.

Right now, AMD GPUs are by far the best from a cost to performance ratio, except for the 980ti versus Fury X. The R9 390 is cheaper than the GTX 970, and performs better than the GTX 970. Considering your budget, this is where you should be in terms of GPU. A 980 isn't worth the extra cost, and a R9 Fury (non-X) is probably outside your price range. The 390X usually isn't worth it over the 390 unless you can find a great deal on it.

"I don't trust AMD." That opinion is idiotic. I'm not saying you're an idiot. I'm saying not trusting AMD CPUs is idiotic. Here is probably the best build you're going to get for the price. I can make it cheaper by a large amount if you want to focus on 1080p 60hz gaming, but for 800 this is the best you can do: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£197.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.99 @ Novatech) Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£78.45 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£29.90 @ Ebuyer) Storage: Kingston HyperX Fury 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£52.98 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.95 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card (£259.99 @ Aria PC) Case: Fractal Design Core 1300 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£36.95 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: Super Flower Golden Green HX 650W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (£69.22 @ CCL Computers) Total: £792.42 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-01 21:12 BST+0100

If you want better gaming performance, wait for Zen or go Intel. Either way, it's going to be a platform swap.

I wouldn't change anything. You have already gone overboard on the memory and power supply, and a custom loop means you won't be easily able to change GPUs and that's the only thing you could want to change in that system. Basically, unless you're looking for more ways to throw your money away (much of your build I would put under this category), keep what you have.