VeryColdAir

Last year, I noticed that one strand on a pre-lit (built-in) Christmas was burnt out. This year, I'm looking to replacing all of the burnt-out bulbs and hope it doesn't happen again. (The strand is in the middle of the tree, the lights on the strand before and after are fine, which is a little puzzling.) There's between 60-80 bulbs that need to be replaced. I could replace just the bulbs, but I was looking to get bulbs with the bases already installed. Prior to today, I thought all strand lights were effectively the same, at least for the base of the lights and the diameter of the bulbs. Most guides I found online say to just match up the voltage and wattage. The labeling on the cord doesn't have any wattage or amperage listed, but it does say 2.5V. I went to two local hardware stores, and they didn't have the replacement lights I was looking for (plenty of 3V lights with bases and plenty of 2.5W bulbs without bases though. This caused me to turn to looking on Amazon. I saw the following image on several Amazon listings, and it caused me to get out the calibers and check the lights I have. The light base I'm looking for is roughly 0.47 inches long, and 0.2 inches across the bottom, matching the base labelled "Others" in the image. The existence of this image led me to think that the lights with the base label "Others" exists and people would sell it. I spent awhile looking around Amazon, and I've failed to find any lights with a base that size. In addition to needing the size that "Others" have (even though these "others" don't seem to exist), I'm also looking for bases that have a retaining clip of sorts on them. Here's a picture of a replacement light that came with the tree. It might be worth noting that I'm looking for warm white as well. Has anybody had to find replacement lights for light strands before? Is there any store that sells lights with housing that matches the "Others" base, preferably in bulk of 50 to 100?

I'm not sure if Savage Jerky is currently a sponsor or not, but I thought they were the sponsor for the WAN show a few weeks ago though. On January 5th this year, I placed an order with Savage Jerky. The next day, I get an shipping notice email "All of the items from your order #10XXXX have now been shipped." Since that day, when I got to the order page, it has said "We've accepted your order, and we're getting it ready. Come back to this page for updates on your shipment status." After that, I kind-of forgot about the order until mid-summer. I still hadn't received the order at this time, so on June 22nd, I send their sales team an email. Unless it went to the junk folder and I didn't catch it, I have not gotten a response from them yet. Between now and then, this issue was out of sight, out of mind. I just ran into something that reminded me of it today. It's now November 2022, and I have not received my order or gotten a reply to my inquiry from them. Has anybody else reported this happening to them? Should I keep trying to reach out to them?

I decided to try getting the HDMI audio splitter. As far as I can tell, it seems to work, but I'm still only getting sound from the front left and front right speakers. So either it's not working correctly, something is not configured right, or the sound bar is the issue and won't work with it. It behaves the same way with my PC as it does my laptop. I have gotten my laptop to connect to a 5.1 home theater receiver before and have proper surround sound with just an HDMI cable, so I'm a little annoyed this doesn't just work in the same way. I have my video card connect with an HDMI to the HDMI splitter, and then the splitter connected to the sound bar via an optical cable. The splitter shows up as a sound device, and by right clicking on the speaker icon in the system tray, I can set it to 5.1 When I go into the advanced settings to test it, it defaults to the first 5.1 surround option, but only the front left and right speakers are not grayed out (see screenshot below). When I test it, it plays all of the sounds through the sound bar, not the rear or sub channels. When I switch off of the first 5.1 Surround option from the list box to another option and then switch back, none of the speakers are grayed out. When I try to test it, it only plays test tones for the front left and front right speakers. When it is playing the test tones for the other speakers, I don't hear anything, but the master volume in windows sound settings shows something playing. I checked to see if the sound bar was set to surround, and it is set to surround "on". I tried the "dual" option as well, and there's nothing. At this point, I think I'm giving up on trying to get the sound bar to work. I'm not sure if getting a sound card would have worked, the audio splitter seems like it's doing the same thing. It's going to be more of a hassle for me to try to get this to work than it is to return it. I found somebody selling a Logitech X-540 set, and I'm going to give that a shot. If anybody else was thinking of getting a sound bar to use with their PC, I sincerely hope you have better luck than I have.

I just found out that 'HDMI Audio Extractors" exist. This one on amazon cost $22, claims to support DTS, and the seller has said in a Q&A on the page that "Our audio extractor can output audio without connecting an output device like TV." This might be what I was looking for. Anybody use one of these before, are they any good?

I have a Vizio V51-H6. I did just try updating my nVidia drivers to 466.77, and it still doesn't show up in the nVidia control panel.

Why is getting surround sound so difficult? Hello guys, I did some research based on a belief that my motherboard has a digital audio port and then bought a 5.1 sound bar set that had a wireless sub and satellites.... I would have bet money that my motherboard had that digital audio port, but it turns out it does not. I'm a little upset at this, and looking for some advice because I don't have a great understanding of how to make surround sound work. There might be a way to salvage this purchase cheaply, and I was hoping you guys might know of one. Right now I feel like I have a few options: Return the sound bar and look for another solution, possibly one that takes advantage all of all the six aux ports on my motherboard. If I'm going to return it, I'd need to decide to do it within 2 weeks. Add a S/PDIF Toslink (or mini-toslink) port to my PC somehow (probably a sound card). I think this will need DTS interactive to do live encoding to get surround sound, else my 5.1 set-up becomes a overpriced 2.1 set-up. Figure out how to get HDMI arc to work on a GTX 1080 that doesn't have HDMI arc (I feel like I lack the PhD in electrical and software engineering and I'd need for this.) For the second option, is there a good, inexpensive PCIe sound card that has digital audio (S/PDIF Toslink) that supports 5.1 surround sound via DTS with DTS interactive? At first I thought the ASUS Xonar DSX was exactly what I was looking for. It comes with a mini-toslink to toslink adapter, which should work with an optical cable, but it looks like it's out of stock everywhere. I could wait around and hope it comes back in stock, or try to find an alternative. The sound bar I got also has aux-in and HDMI. I tried connecting my MSI GTX 1080 to the sound bar via HDMI, but the sound bar isn't detected as an audio device. (The sound bar does recommend using HDMI arc as the 'best' connection.) From my own research, it doesn't look like there's a way to get the video card to recognize the sound card. If you guys know of a way, please let me know. Eventually I'd like to build a new PC, but my current one still holds up. For my next PC, I want to go mini-ITX, and I was hoping to get a board that has the S/PDIF toslink port, even if it didn't have all of the aux ports for surround sound. Are there any motherboards that support DTS interactive (I think this would be via realtek drivers?). Should I return the sound bar? If I do, what solution do you guys suggestion? I thought about the Logitech Z606, though I don't have as good placement options for the monitors as I do a sound bar. If I go with that, how would I connect the cables? I think I'd need two aux to split RCA, and two aux to single RCA: L-out on the mobo to the Z606's F.R & F.L RS-out to R.R. & R.L? CS-out to CEN SS-Out to Sub Does that sound right? Has anybody else connect a Z606 to their PC?

I've been using LastPass for about 6 years now, and it has been really convenient, but I'm not sure I want to pay $36 a year for their premium plan. I'm really disappointed they made this change. It still says on their plan page that the free plan gives "convenient, reliable password management with access on all your devices for free." I'll look more after work, but Bitwarden free plan (or even their $10 annual premium plan) looks like it's what I'll be switching to.

I'd consider getting a WAN one like this if it did have stitched edges. I'm not really a fan of any of the other designs posted so far. The first one that @Oshino Shinobu posted is a good design, but I feel like most right-handed people will cover up the logo with their keyboard. I'd shift the logo to be on the right where the mouse is, so it's still mostly visible when people use it. (Maybe even offer it in different colors, like the elemental shirts.)

I believe that the reason he uses Crysis 3 is that it has a benchmark, and when it came out, it was not an easy game to run, hence all of the "can it run crysis?" memes. Now because of that meme, which he had referenced a few times in various videos, I think he started using it as a standard game to test PC's so if people bought up the question, he could say yes.

Thanks for the replies. It would see that his chipset is not meant to get more than 1V, and it saw 5V today before it died.

My friend got a new case, and was transferring his parts from his old one to his new one, when he was done, he went to turn them on, and his pc wouldn't boot. It was on, his mobo and some LEDs were lighting up, it just didn't boot. He would hit his power and reset buttons on his case, and they wouldn't do anything. He had to unplug his PC to get it to turn off. He has a MSI Gaming Z170 m5 mobo, and he says that the dragon icon thingy between the PCI slots and the sata ports on the mobo was getting insanely hot while he had his PC plugged in. After unplugging his PC, his PC never came back on. After taking stuff apart, he released that in the USB 3.0 Header he wasn't using, the two pins were touching. He unbent the pins, and his pc still would not turn on. This was roughly an hour or so ago. More recently, he just told me: He also says that now when he plugs it in or tries to turn it on, nothing happens. No PSU activation, no noise, no signs of life from the mobo. He says if there was an error message on the LED thingy on his mobo when his PC was on, he couldn't see it as his GPU's were in the way. Is his mobo fried, or is something shorted out? He should still be under warranty if he needs to RMA it.

I'd prefer the blade stealth. I already have a desktop that I could use for gaming, but I don't have a laptop that I can carry around with me and use for classes. I'd ideally like to get something that's thin and light, but college drains your money pretty quick.

I'm not the original owner and it's a bit far out of warranty, it came out in like 2008 or so.

The title basically says the problem. I got the TV, and when I plug it in and turn it on, the screen with flicker on and off, which would probably give some people a seizure, and after a few seconds to a few minutes of flickering, the TV display goes blank. The audio keeps going and is fine. Awhile ago I had a similar problem with a 32" WestingHouse TV, where the screen would turn on and display an image for roughly 15 to 30 seconds, then the display would die, while the audio kept playing. To fix this, I had to remove one of the three old transformers on the power board, and then solder on a new one, which I picked up off amazon for like $20. I knew which transformer to replace, as it had burned the PCB a bit where it was solder at. Looking at the LG TV, I can't really see any thing that looks like the transformers in the WestingHouse TV, nor any area where the powerboard or input board is burnt. If anybody has any ideas of how to fix this, or has fixed this problem before, I could use some advise. It's a decent TV, and I don't really want to spend the money to replace it, especially if I can fix it myself.

Guys, this is not a joke, this is a serious chance we have to do something for a better future. Everybody should watch that video, and then visit the link to the 'take action' page in the description. It doesn't take long at all, and it can help expand the free/fair use laws for people who make youtube videos and other content. I'm sure content creators out there support this, and they would use your support as well. It's a free way to support the content creators you love (and I'm guessing you're only on these forums because of a certain content creating group...). Repeat: This is serious, this is not an April Fool's joke. Go and give your feedback.