Weirdybeardyman

In my current gaming system I am using an old Gainward GTX 460 GS, because I got it for free . My current keyboard, a Microsoft Media keyboard 1.0, I also got for free and have been using for several years and it is still functioning ok somehow.
I have stacks of old ddr2 lying around my room,about 6 sticks.
I have an old Dell Dimension 3000 still working on my floor and some IDE data cables. I have some de-lidded processors- A Pentium 4, a mobile Pentium 4 and a core 2 quad.
I also have a beauty of an ancient Sun Microsystems Pentium 3 working tower.
Wish I was posting from my pc but unfortunatly not so no pics.

Can you please answer this survey on game play habits for me for my college work. It is short, only 10 questions!
https://www.surveymonkey.co.uk/r/P6Z582C

Done 
Good luck on your college work!

Over the past week some build items have arrived so I will cover them along with the case mod im doing
Moving the MEGA desk build (2013) in to the case to make room for the new desk & to ensure I have a working 
computer during the build so I can keep you all updated 
 
 
My 1st package had some Cooler Master bit n bobs that I will cover later in the build
along with my replacement tea cup & cap 
 
 

 
 

 
 
2nd package had the heart of the new build, A v1200 PSU along with Jet Flow 120mm RED fans & some
very nice Resonar in-ear buds so I can have some decent music as I'm working in the shed 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
And last thing I received this week was my new CPU, Intel i7-5820k witch will be a nice upgrade for me
the last CPU I was using was the i5-2500k.
 
 

There are photos of a 500gb 850 evo ssd and I already had a 4tb WD Black for storage. As for the cables I bought them of PCCG. They have their own premade sets of extensions and I bought one of those (only like $40). Last time I talked to their manager he said that cablemod do them for him and they resell in their own packaging. I bought some DIY ones because the cpu and 24pin in the pack I bought were only 30cm. So i bought the DIY cables in a length of 60cm and made my own. I noticed that the diy cables are thin compared to the ones I bought premade. You cant notice the difference in the table though. Will be getting cable combs soon but its a pain to get them in Australia. I want to get custom sleeved ones done because with the extensions and all the EVGA default cords, the side is full of cords and its gonna be real hard to get the pump and hardline in there. Thanks.

Hmmm I understand that it's early in design, however I don't see myself wishing to buy it yet.
 
Now it might just be me, but I enjoy being able to pick up a case. And a heavy, water cooling case with fins on the side screams "I'm gonna cut ya!" all day. Also seems a bit wide.
 
However keep going, to each their own and I think it has potential. Even if it is the potential to be a clothes tearing, hand slicing machine.

 

Update 08/18/2015:
 
The second prototype is complete! ...kinda. All the surface finishing are done, but our manufacturer made a mistake on one of the parts, so we're having them redo that part before sending the complete package over to us.
 
For our second prototype, we have two different surface finishing for comparison: Brushed Aluminum and Powder Coated Aluminum. Please do this very short survey and let me know which you prefer!
 
Edit: Images
 

 

 

 

 

Set up my table on display in the hall today for it to get marked. The judges were in all day marking the project and i'm hoping for a high result. I don't get to find out my mark so i'm disappointed but at the end of the year it gets added to your final course mark. As you can see in the following pics the 980ti's were added in and look marvellous. You can also see the cable ties on the cable routing but it was a decent effort. When the top goes on you wont see those cords much due to the angle you look into the cutout but I plan to add some cable combs and make it look better once I watercool it and stuff. The order for my watercooling is finalised and hopefully get it in a day or two. I have also included pictures of the table display. Originally I had all the cables dangling but I decided to cable tie them up and hide them under the table, you can see two cords which I couldn't hide. When i get this home I have plans to mount the power board on the table leg and hide all the cords behind the table. I also put together a little headphone stand out of my left over wood which worked out really well. Pretty happy with the results, cant wait to water cool the beat!
 

Bae 1 of 2 is home <3. Will do a proper update when I pick up the second card tomorrow afternoon.

P.S has a Asic Quality of 73.2% if anyone was wondering.

Thanks! I haven't decided which PCIe riser cable to use yet, since there is a tradeoff between price and reliability. Once I get the second prototype, I'll test various risers to see which ones are best.
 
 
Hey, I really appreciate the support. To source models of components, check out the following websites:
 
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/
https://grabcad.com/
http://scc.jezmckean.com/links
 
When I started the project, I also had no idea which manufacturer to go with, so I just did a web search and emailed/called anyone that sounds like they could do something like my project. I ended up contacting at least 200 manufacturers. Here are some tips:
 
1) For a small run production, you'll want to go with a manufacturer that does metal stamping. Don't try to do any form of metal casting; way too expensive. Laser cutting places might also work, but they're still more expensive than metal stamping.
2) Watch videos and read up on how manufacturers do metal stamping and bending. Think about how they would manufacture your case, and if what you're designing can be produced.
3) Read up on how to make proper dimensioned engineering drawings (like a 3-view diagram) as well as a Bill of Materials.
 
Hope that all this is helpful! Don't hesitate to contact me with further questions.

Mionix Avior SK Weight Mod
Materials
Mouse (derp)
1 oz. Tungsten Putty
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AG3C3W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01
1 oz. Tungsten Spheres
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TY3CAY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
Cable sleeving
Lighter
Scissors
Dual spudger+poker tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Purpose
I love my Mionix Avior SK, but it was way too light for me. At 100g and no weight options I knew I wanted to end up a little bit heavier than my last EVGA Torq X10 (128g). I figured I could start with the putty (netting me 128.35g) and then add in the spheres if I felt like I wanted a bit more. Ended up doing the full 2oz, total mouse weight is now 156.7g (no cable).
Pros
-(potentially) custom weighting ratio for front/rear of the mouse
-Heavier feel
-Smoother tracking if you’re heavy handed
-Tungsten (19.25g/cm3) is both more dense than lead (11.34g/cm3), and non-toxic
-Putty conforms however you would like it to, extremely easy to work with
Cons
-Depending on the interior PCB placement using uncoated Tungsten may short out the board (it is conductive)
-The spheres are somewhat difficult to work with, and placement can be problematic
 
 
Steps
1) Grab your spudger+poker and put the tip between the 3 lined segments that hold down the snap-in mechanism for your mouse backbone and L+R click. It should easily begin to pop out.

2) Once you have removed the top piece flip the mouse over and using the spudger apply as much downward force as possible, gently sliding it forward to begin to peel off the rear slider. Underneath there will be two Philips screws. Remove them.

3) Poke the spudger through the reverse side where the phillips screws were to pop out the bottom white paneling. DO NOT FORCE IT! Also make sure the bottom panel is flat on a secure surface, as there is a ribbon connector between the top and bottom clamshells. Disconnect the ribbon from the bottom half, it’s much easier this way.

4) Look at the bottom panel, and your weighting equipment, and decide how you would like the overall weight distribution to end up. After looking everything over I decided putting all the weight in the rear of the top clamshell would be the easiest/safest option.


5) Begin by placing a line of putty down an area, then pressing it in with the spudger. Take the Poker and create the appropriate number of dimples for the spheres to fit into. Place them in and press with the flat side of the spudger to secure them.

6) After you are satisfied with an area flatten out another piece of putty and place it over the spheres. Press in the corners to seal it to the bottom half of putty.

7) After I had a solid foundation of putty I started using the clamshell to hold in the spheres, then added a securing layer of putty on top to keep them in place. As long as you have solidly pressed in your foundation the putty has enough tack to hold in any additional spheres, even if there is a gap between the base clamshell and top of the mouse.


8) Forgot to take the finished shot of both sides filled with spheres and putty, but it should be fairly apparent at this point what I did. I had 10 spheres left over and decided that I could place 5 on each side of the base. To insulate them and keep them from rolling all over the damn place I used some sleeving I had lying around to make little sphere baskets. The upside to sleeving is that you can create custom sizing and melt them shut. Pictured below.




9) Check the final weighting of the mouse. If you’re happy button it back together in reverse from steps #3-1. Use the spudger to fully flatten out the slider, unless you completely borked it and ruined the adhesive. These gliders seem fairly resilient to me and I have no sticking or bubbling issues.

10) All done! I don’t have a scale lying around, so I can’t show before/after realized weights, but I would assume the Tungsten kits were accurately weighted, and Mionix lists the mouse’s weight accurately.

I still need to sit down and find the ttime to go through 800 entires, so iot might take a bit..

looks really sharp, nice to know someone that really knows how to handle wood

The computer is finally coming together! All the standoffs have been put in the table along with the i/o bracket thing which holds the motherboard in place. The Asus X99 deluxe looks so nice in this build especially lit up by the led lights. The noctua fans have been secured in the front along with the dust filters which looks really nice. Still haven't decided if I am going to stain the box dark brown or not. I have ordered the EVGA V2 sli bridge, the EVGA P2 1200w power supply and custom extensions. The colours for the custom extensions look like this:
 

I really like them and these colours are featured in the build so it should look good. Working with Asus at the moment on graphics cards, I may not end up using the gigabyte g1 gaming, we will have to wait and see. CPU and ram is coming soon aswell, haven't ordered them yet. Enough with my rambling.... Time for picks.
 

I would suggest going into the sound cavity from the back of the guitar.  That way you keep the front cosmetics entirely intact and will not need to do a refinish.  
 
By leaving about an inch of the back intact around the perimeter you will also keep the guitar structurally sound by not removing the kerfing that holds the back to the sides.
 
Then you would just mount everything up to some sort of back plate, that you would then bolt to the intact portion of the guitar back.

Page 16 master race.

"I would personally go with the Cryorig R1, because it should provide roughly the same performance as an NH-D15 while having superior aesthetics. Either cooler would make a great selection, and you should simply choose the one you find most appealing. You really can't go wrong."
 
Sorry, but I must fix broken things...
 
Anywho, I'm also going to suggest you pick Cryorig. Beautiful heatsink, easy installation, fully viewable memory, and very competitive with Noctua's performance.

If anyone paid any attention to the recent Premium fans video from LInus you would know there really isn't much of a difference between fans other than price. I would just go with a well established company such as Corsair or Noctua but just don't spend £25 on a single fan because that is just crazy. 

Nice, like it alot, its crazy the different takes people have designing the same product.

This is my entry so far.  
 
  Bascially 

Thanks guys, just going by the concept of designing for a specific company with a defined design direction and brand identify, I think that having things in common with the design is going to happen. Makes me curious as to how they are going to decide on the hundreds of designs they get. I appreciate the feedback, and didn't mean to make my design anything like yours, just going for a Star-Trek-esc aesthetic with SilverStone's product line of the EBA01. I think having similar designs helps to really spawn innovation and interesting forms, especially when the product has a specific use-case and concept, but can yield so many differently formed designs. 

That looks beautiful. Love it, though the design does look a bit busy. You have some serious 3d design skills.

Are these temps idle or under load?

Serious Sam the Second Encounter on Mental difficulty in Single Player. Especially last level.
I don't think that anything can beat that lol.

I have quite a bit of experience in blender, was going to enter myself but just short on ideas. I'd potentially be interested in a collaboration, as long as it's aloud.