Lauen

None of the suggestions so far have been any good at all. A shotgun mic would be your solution. Cheapest good one I know of is the RØDE VideoMic GO. It can plug right into your PC with a normal 3.5 mm jack. Mount it on top of your screen with a desktop 3/8" stand of sorts, hook it up, adjust your levels, and you should be good to go. EDIT: Crap, the RØDE VideoMic wasn't using the shotgun pattern after all, it was just in the name lol. I found this: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/iShotgunKit and of course a good old RØDE NTG-1: Saw a guy running a setup like that here once, can't find the thread though. He went a more expensive route, with a RØDE NTG-1 or 2, a small mixer, fancy soundcard and fancy stand, but this can be done for probably < 150 USD. EDIT: Just so you can understand easier: Shotgun mics have a certain pickup pattern, which means where they pick up sound. You can see shotgun there. You can also see Cardioid, which is the pickup pattern of most condenser mics. (Blue Yeti, snowball, Razer Seiren, the list goes on)

Aside from the head-fi stuff I posted, I'd get the AD700X. I'm not a huge fan of the traditional Sennheiser sound.

if you were to read stuff on head-fi, you'll need to know what their fancy words mean, and try to not be affected by all the snake oil.

M50's suck for gaming though due to the narrow soundstage, plus they are uncomfortable for longer periods of use and for larger than average ears, like mine. Look into something else, open if you want (usually) better gaming and movie experiences, or closed if you want isolation. Some headphones that usually beat the M50X in most things are: Sennheiser HD5x8 series (open), Shure SRH440 and 840 (440 with 840 pads is almost identical to 840, both are closed), Beyerdynamic DT770 / 880 / 990 (all very good, 770 is closed, 880 is semi-open and 990 is open), Pioneer SE-A1000 (sounds like Sennheisers but are cheap. great for huge heads), Audio-Technica ATH-AD / A 700X / 900X (AD is open, A is closed) aaand I can't think of much more.

I don't even know what "LG 430" is. All I can find is a phone. If you're trying to say "Logitech G430", then I understand. You need to make sure it's the mic chosen in steam. Go into steam settings and go to the voice panel. Also make sure the mic is set to default in the windows sound thing.

Forgive me if there's something I don't know about, but automatic downclocking when vsync is on makes perfect sense. the GPU doesn't have to run 100% if you're able to get 30 fps above vsync target when it's off, so it doesn't run full speed when it's on because it doesn't have to make more than 60 fps (or whatever your screen runs at)

Keep in mind, if you're looking at the SE-A1000, you might need to do some quick modifications for it to fit heads that aren't the size of Jupiter. Seriously those things are meant for heads that are the size of jupiter. I have a larger head than average and they just barely fit me alright with a shortened headband, and they barely put any pressure on my head, even after countless hours of stretching inwards to have slightly more clamping pressure. But if you do the headband mod (open up the sides, shorten the headband in whatever way you desire) then it should fit most average to large heads. also the pads are literally jersey shirts, I don't mind it but some might. They sound absolutely fantastic for the price tho.

Found it on Realtek's site, in the datasheet for the ALC892. At the time of actually making these posts (a year ago) I had access to the datasheets on their site, but it seems they have made them hard to get. Yup, this is VERY common for Creative and ASUS soundcards, high output impedance, because Creative and ASUS know nothing about actual clean sound. Actual good headphone audio amplifier retail brands (that mainly do audio, and not the gaming kind) are Schiit, SMSL, Mayflower (they make O2s n stuff), JDS Labs (they make O2s n stuff), and Fiio. You can also find other good ones, like the Syba dac thing. The point of those is to make money for Asus and Creative. They don't really think their audio products through. Get something that is actually made for audio and not for profit. In a perfect world, everyone would listen to NWAVGUY, and make amps that are high power, low output impedance, simple and clean, with low noise floors. But instead he created the O2 amp which is a success if you manage to not listen to all the snakeoil on hifi sites.

Rebuilt my PC and managed to break a RAM slot when trying to insert my RAM sticks. Somehow didn't insert it straight and didn't push down straight. I barely even remember it happening but it sucked. Rest of the RAM slots worked fine though.

same with the good old Phenom II X4's as well, you could get lucky and be able to unlock two more cores, making it an 1055T (or whatever other Phenom II x6's there were). I don't remember entirely if you could do it with the x3's too, as this was just before the time when I got really into computers.

1) Inventory is for changing skins used, and for using different weapons in some slots. Like Tec 9 vs CZ, or M4A4 vs M4A1-S. I don't think you can access it when you're in a competitive game though. You can buy skins off the marketplace (it's fairly easy to find but I don't have the game installed right now cus I just reinstalled my PC). You can also get them by buying cases and keys, then opening said cases with said keys. 2) Zoom sensitivity affects your sensitivity when scoped in with weapons that have scopes. 1 is the same as normal sens, lower to go slower, higher to go faster. 3) I like WarOwl, some of his guides are VERY introductory, for the absolute newest of players, and some are more advanced. Some of his guides are out-dated though, such as the old M4A4 vs M4A1-S video, due to updates to the game. Just keep in mind how old some videos are. It's also nice to just watch pro-level gameplay. Lots of pros stream, like fnatic olofmeister, he's my favorite. also, general tips: play a lot of deathmatch if you really wanna get good aim. play around with your sensitivity to find what works best for you. I use 800 DPI, 2.6 in game, 6/11 windows, and I have turned down / off any mouse acceleration I can find, although I have a laser mouse so it's almost impossible to eliminate all acceleration. Some say that's high, but meh, I like it. also keep in mind that 99% of high skilled players play with 400 dpi and like 1-2 sensitivity in game, it's actually hard to get far with high sens. EDIT: and you can build your aim even more by going into headshot only deathmatch servers. You can only kill people with a headshot, making aim and recoil control even more important.

Alright. Thanks guys.

So I just got a new motherboard, MSI 970 Gaming, to replace my now dead ASUS Sabertooth 990FX. I couldn't RMA it due to.. reasons. And I figured I'd overclock my FX8320 again. When I used the Sabertooth board, I had it running at 4.4 Ghz, 1.284 volts. Verified. But with this 970 board, I can't even do 4.4 ghz at 1.336 volts... Prime95 fails after just 30 seconds even then. I don't wanna go higher either, as I already hit high 50 temps before P95 fails. All the threads I've seen on it says "it's a great overclocker". Have I just gotten a dud? My 8320 should be fine, considering my previous results, and I'm not having any issues with stock clocks.

Welp, now I'm not that excited for it anymore. I guess I'll find out if I like it more than my Sensei. If I don't, it won't be a big deal anyway, it's a fairly cheap mouse.

Why not Rival 100? Same / equally good sensor with "perfect tracking", the shape is a blend of normal Rival 300 and Sensei, as it's a more ambidextrous mouse but I don't think it has buttons on both sides like the Sensei. And it has some RGB lighting so you can fiddle around with that if you so desire. I wouldn't get the Sensei, because as everyone else has already stated: all Laser mice have some acceleration. I've been using a Sensei for two or three years and I don't notice it personally, but I've got a Rival 100 coming soon, and I'll do some comparisons. I'm excited for it.

Do you have the newest drivers?

Why are you using a USB network card when your laptop has a good one already?

I haven't been around much lately so, no.

HyperX Cloud all the way. The mic isn't exactly fantastic but the headphones are fantastic. 7.1 surround in headphones is just bullshit, it's just EQ and reverb, set your game to headphone mode and you'll be good to go.

I haven't turned my Sony Super Legato off for more than 20 minutes in total in a month now. No problems. It is an old stereo amp though.

Yes, they are closed back. They are Takstar Pro 80 with a mic on the side. Same as QPad QH-90. Pretty good value actually. I know Sennheiser HD280 are also just under 100. I haven't been able to use them myself but I've heard they are good. I touched a pair once but I couldn't listen to anything with them. Didn't like the pads, they were of the creaking sort.

TL;DR: Get the phone you think you'll like, they'll most likely sound exactly the same with headphones on. Any phone probably sound exactly the same. If they do sound different it would probably be some EQ setting on the phone, or noise floor. All of the ones mentioned should sound exactly the same. We've come a LONG way in terms of audio gear, that pretty much no dacs actually sound any better than others. All that matters is having enough power for the cans you're using, and since 90% of cans are like 100+ dB / mw you should be fine unless you want to listen at deafening volumes. Also: If you think your phone doesn't push enough power: Does it get loud enough? Yes? Then you have enough power. Headphones rarely get better with a more powerful amp. And of course, audio is entirely subjective, so what might be better to some, might be worse to you. TL;DR: Get the phone you think you'll like, they'll most likely sound exactly the same with headphones on.

I went from M50S to Shure SRH440 with 840 pads. Cost less, sounded better (to me), and MUCH MUCH MUCH more comfortable. Review in signature. Beyerdynamic DT770 are also great headphones.

What headphones does that mean though?

Stick it somewhere there isn't fabric then? You can bend the modmic 4.0 a whole lot so that shouldn't be an issue.