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Everything posted by Lauen
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I don't think the Fidelio X2's will fit him very well, considering he has issues with the AKG series. I barely managed to keep the X1's on my head, and afaik the X2's aren't bigger. OP: I'd definitely check out the Shure SRH1440 or 1840 if you got the phat stax. or AD700X or 900 or even the 1000 thingie.
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SoCal is in the timezone PST, aka GMT / UTC -8. it's now 13:25 (1:22 PM) here in Norway (GMT +1), and it's 4:25 AM in SoCal then. Unveiling is in almost 6 hours!
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Sennheiser Momentum over-ear low volume with Realtek ALC1150
Lauen replied to Christianm's topic in Audio
Yes, because of the dampening factor you should have a setup with as low output impedance as possible. output impedance x 8 = minimum recommended headphone impedance. the Fiio E10K has <1 ohm output impedance if I remember correctly. -
Sennheiser Momentum over-ear low volume with Realtek ALC1150
Lauen replied to Christianm's topic in Audio
the SBZ wouldn't help at all, according to the response you got, it has a 22 ohm output impedance which is absolutely horrible. But the ASUS Maximus VI series (which ever it is), all have 10 ohm output impedance, this may be it. BUT: when I used my JBL J33i in-ears on my ASUS Xonar D2X which also has 10 ohm output impedance, there was next to no sound at 10-20% volume, which was the normal listening volume for me, so when I turned it up to actually get sound, the sound started crackling and shit, so I quickly plugged them out and used onboard instead (I have an ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 which has the Realtek ALC892 and 0.3 ohm output impedance) they worked just fine, but a few days later they actually broke, I assume the D2X has something to do with it because of what happened. as creatip123 said, the Syba DAC would be a cheap and nice solution, available here and here. -
Sennheiser Momentum over-ear low volume with Realtek ALC1150
Lauen replied to Christianm's topic in Audio
You're not compromising quality at all. If you're getting decent volume even though you have to go all the way to 90-100%, it's fine. I've even heard someone say that onboard doesn't use its full potential unless it's at 100% but I'm a little sceptical towards that one LOL -
The bass in the DT990 is almost the same as in the DT770, or so I've been told. only difference is that the DT990 is open, which then is better for gaming with its wider soundstage, but has no isolation, which the DT770 has, as its a closed headphone.
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It's got a TI NE5532 according to the Silverstone page though. and the TI NE5532 is one of the best headphone amps for the price, with 0.3 ohm output impedance too.
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Works fine for me.
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I've known this for a while now, the first day after I got a second monitor it became apparent to me, as I had to use HDMI and it just didn't look right, so I spendt a good hour searching for a solution. Nvidia has it incorporated into the control panel now though.
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I don't see a headphone output? EDIT: it comes with an RCA to 3,5mm jack adapter.. idk if that'll work tho?
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I see no reason to go for any higher than 320 kpbs MP3 files, I don't hear a difference with any of my headphones. as for the differences in sound between your laptop and phone, try turning off ALL enhancements you find in sound settings.
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I just envisioned you being a conehead... Anyway, some heaphones I've tried that have very large headbands include the Audio-Technica ATH-M50's, but their pads are so bad that I can't stand them, and the pads are basically on-ear for me. the other is the Pioneer SE-A1000, the pads on these are better, but sorta weird. Also check out the Audio-Technica ATH-AD700 / 500 / 900 and A700 / 500 / 900, they may fit you. It's not the clamp force, it's the actual size of the headband. OP said so himself, please read the posts properly. that includes you too, NannerBeans.
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That's different though, a computer case you will be opening up to replace parts and such, and the overall quality of it affects the building experience, while the Schiit Fulla, Fiio E10K, and Syba DAC, you won't be opening up to replace parts or upgrade, unless you're very good with a soldering iron and know what you're doing with new parts / circuit boards. Like my Golf. Not really a good looking car, really cheap, doesn't handle very well, but engine and transmission had only gone 125K miles and always started.
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yeah they did fix it but it's still a little.. eh. but hey, they get good reviews, their products are visually appealing, and to some the "made in USA" thing is an amazing thing. I don't really care for that though, the Syba thing isn't exactly expensive, so you can't expect full aluminium cases and stuff. the insides are what matters the most IMO.
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but "scrap a lot of stuff they had already made just to fix the faulty ones" isn't fixing faulty ones, it's throwing away faulty ones and giving customers new ones. I don't remember where, but think I saw someone say that the issue was a component put in backwards. but hey if you want it, not gonna stop you. also we don't know how loud exactly you want it to be, so specs won't tell us anything, as your definition of loud enough might not be as loud as someone elses. I'd go for the Syba because it's cheaper and does the job nicely. also: I'm sceptical about Schiit because of this: http://nwavguy.blogspot.no/2011/07/banned-at-head-fi.html
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"by 12/15" which is today. still not open. also I asked where you find the info that said "they were willing to delay the product and scrap a lot of stuff they had already made just to fix the faulty ones."
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sound signature would be bassy, warm (mid-bass slight boost) balanced / flat, or bright (less bass and more highs / treble)
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Where did you find that info? I'm pretty sure they had to recall all the faulty ones, and there aren't any left on their site now either due to a "production glitch", so good luck getting one now.
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Sounds promising then
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no prob. amazing, isn't it?
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I haven't really tested a lot of Sennheiser products myself, but the ones I have tried are not entirely my taste. I love mids, which directly reflects my music taste: metal, especially prog metal and thrash metal, where guitars and vocals are the main points, and in prog it's the guitars, in a lot of cases the keyboards too, and ambient sounds, and the PC360's I tried didn't fulfill my desires. the PC360's are almost identical to the HD558 or 518, and I've been told that a lot of Sennheiser headphones share some of the aspects of the sound, what people call a "veiled" sound, slightly understated highs and mids in my experience. This might not be everyone else's experiences though, and it might not cover all the headphones. In my opinion Shure makes amazing headphones, I've got SRH440's, and my review is in my signature (right below the post). Keep in mind that these are closed, along with the HD280 and 380, which isolate noise, while open headphones don't isolate, but tend to sound a little more airy or easy to listen to. I also have a pair of Pioneer SE-A1000, which I've heard sound a lot like the Sennheiser HD650, and they've also got the "sennheiser sound" which I talked about earlier. I use them when I have a headache, which closed headphones can make worse.
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for classical, go for open headphones or flat closed ones. for open, Fidelio X2's or Sennheiser HD558 (or 518), or Audio-Technica AD700X/500X or something. If you wanna go chep with great sound, Pioneer SE-A1000, these are made for absolutely massive heads though. and for closed, flat ones: Shure SRH440 or 840, or 440 with 840 pads which is 99% of an 840, or Sony MDR 7506 or v6. or Sennheiser HD280 or 380, I know mr moose likes his 280's. For the best performance, planars. Audeze LCD's, HIFIMAN HE400i or 560, or the "old" 400 and 500 used, will be amazing for all music with incredible separation and accuracy. I'm currently listening to the video you linked and everything sounds as good as any other youtube video does. Clear with my SRH440's at least.
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so instead of a giant factory you trust a small company with handbuilt products, which has had.. meh history, and the first batch of Fullas were faulty.. okay