EmeraldFlame

That's likely because you have multiple layers of firewalls in place blocking the connection.

Your router will have a basic firewall built in. You'd need to make sure port-forwarding is turned on and forwarding port 80 for HTTP and port 443 for HTTPS to the PC hosting the XAMPP instance. Additionally you'd need to make sure that those ports are open for incoming and outgoing external connections in your OS's firewall. Be aware, unless you have a decent amount of security training, these are not ports I'd recommend opening up for the average person, and would put your home network at fairly high risk of attack when left wide open.

2 hours ago, Revan654 said:

 

Just be warned RGB switch from E-Switch are common Cathode. If your looking to add to a PC based RGB controller or Motherboard RGB header they will not work. You need Common Anode which E-Switch does not make.

 

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As for PV6F24011-2R1  I don't think E-Switch Makes them in Dot form, atlease not anymore. There no listing for them, The SKU is completely missing from the list. I checked a few places, Dot can only be obtained with Solid Colors.

 

Best would check Aliexpress, I was trying for same thing but in larger sizes. I never could get ahold of one or they were complete garbage. I just gave up and installed the Ring version. As soon as Case-Labs released the new IO front I'm going with just a Power Switch setup.

Good to know I'm not the only one that can find one. I may end up just going pure white with the reset then.

But yeah, by default, the SMA8-A is actually power button only, but I really prefer having a reset button and a access indicator. I know they're a bit antiquated these days, but I like em.

1 hour ago, Pangea2017 said:

Try finding those with the help off ordering codes: https://www.mouser.de/ds/2/140/PV4-709276.pdf

There are more series aviable with this option. Not sure if they have build these parts numbers.

I have. The size I'm looking for would be the PV6 series for E-Switch, and specifically I'd need part number PV6F24011-2R1 or PV6F24011G-2R1 (either would work, it's just silver or gold contacts), and I can't seem to find a retailer for them. 

I've tried to hunt down part numbers on other manufacturers as well, but not everyone is as forth-coming with their part numbers as E-Switch, a lot of others seem to force you into a business account with them before they let you access their catalog. 

Anyone have any leads on where I might be able to find one? I can't seem to track them down from any suppliers.

I've found these that have and RGB ring but for my reset button, I'd really prefer the dot lighting. Specifically something like this, but RGB capable.

Specifics I'd be looking for:

Face: 18-19mm (although I could modify things for a 22)
Shaft: 16mm (although I could modify things for a 19)
Lighting: RGB Dot
Finish: Black Anodized

It's just going to be a reset switch/drive activity indicator (going into a caselabs SMA8-A), so the switch doesn't have to be able to handle anything crazy as far as voltage/current goes, just needs to be momentary.

Just in case anyone else comes looking for answers, I think I found a solution to my issue with the controller I had dropping off the network.

I've got an Asus AC3200 tri-band router that has a "smart connect" feature, where it steers devices between it's 3 bands (1x 2.4, 2x 5) automatically, and it seems that the controller didn't like that. I'm betting other routers with similar features will have similar issues.

I knew this thing only supported 2.4GHz bands, but figured things would be smart enough that it wouldn't be an issue. I created a guest network on my router that only has access to the 2.4 band, and connected the controller to that, and for the past few days it's been reliable. I assume it would also work by just breaking the main connection out to multiple SSIDs, but for ease of use on every other device I have, I left my main SSID to the smart connect.

16 hours ago, Pangea2017 said:

https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/MagicHome-LED-strip-controller

good old ESP8266 in your Arilux, year jackpot

maybe i will get them now for my self

So it's possible I just got a bad unit due to poor QC?

15 minutes ago, DodoDodo123 said:

I think this one would be good: https://www.amazon.com/Sunix-Wireless-Controller-Function-Smartphones/dp/B01J5A5YYM

I've actually looked into these models too, because everyone is rebranding them, and reviews are extremely mixed. Some people love them. However, at the same time, there are a bunch of people that are saying they suffer the same issues as the one I already have in that they crash or drop off the network constantly. Maybe it's just bad QC on these things?

Awhile ago, I put some RGBW 5050 LED strips on my desk (about 6 meters total) for some ambient lighting and picked up an Arilux AL-LC02 controller.

It's features are awesome, handles RGBW, has app control over wifi with the "Magic Home" app, and can even be tied to google/amazon voice assistants. However the problem I'm running into is it crashes constantly. Literally every time I go to use it, I have to unplug the power, then plug it back in, so that it reboots and works.

Does anyone have recommendations for a more stable controller? Or if anyone else has experience with these controllers specifically, did I maybe just get a defective one, and if I pick up another it might work?

On 2/11/2017 at 1:24 PM, Damascus said:

I lost the dongle unfortunately DX

On 2/11/2017 at 4:33 PM, Jalmio said:

That. Mine's been plugged in all the time but I was slightly disappointed when I realized that the mouse itself doesn't have a slot for it.

You can get replacements pretty cheap online: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Unifying-receiver-mouse-keyboard/dp/B0058OU8VY

I've been using one at work for roughly 6 months on both W7 and W10. No problems what-so-ever on that side of things.

It's definitely possible. Typically if there is something I know is infected that I need to clean, I'll physically detach all my normal storage, boot into a Linux live image, clean it, and then power down and plug stuff back in. Since it's a live image in ram, anything that crossed over would be erased on power down, and I detach storage so it can't try to get onto another partition.

1 hour ago, SirRoderick said:

The Linnmon is a solid slab of material, not hollow. Not planks of solid wood, but a processed wood material. (as most IKEA stuff) It is more than solid enough for my two monitors and a bunch of junk

This is incorrect. The Linnmon is absolutely hollow. It uses their honeycombed paper/cardboard filler. It has real wood around the edges and where the legs attach, but the rest is honeycomb. Says so right on their product info:

RAID 0 as well as RAID 1 have basically no overhead, they don't really do any calculations. Because of this software raid works great for them. Other RAID levels like 5 and 6 require really heavy calculations to make the parity data, those typically run poorly on software based RAIDs. 

However for your needs if you need more speed, you'd be better of getting an nvme pcie based SSD like the 950 pro. 

Has anyone figured out how to turn off the lockscreen picture so you don't have to click before typing in your password? You used to be able to do this in group policy under Computer Config->Admin Templates->Control Panel->Personalization->Do not display lockscreen, but that option doesn't seem to be working anymore. There was a similar registry edit you could do as well before the update and that doesn't seem to work either.

Currently running 2 6950s in crossfire. Would love to have a new graphics card because this pair is starting to get really outdated to do triple monitor gaming, and I no longer get any driver updates at all.

http://www.wsgf.org/products/wsgf-ultimate-desk-stand-v2

That can fit a 34" 21:9 with 25" 16:9s on each side. As well as a ton of other configs.

You could, your not likely to find an SLI bridge that would work though unless you move both GPUs so they are at standard spacing. You could also try and find a version that all the IO is on one slot and then watercool. Not to many cards that only take up one slot anymore though, almost everything has a DVI in the second slot.

Looks like it should. But why didn't you just buy a 5.25" blu-ray drive to start with?

You could host other game servers, set up plex to stream media to all sorts of devices, use crashplan's free tier of service to make other machines automatically back up to it (doesn't even need to be on the same network), or

9 hours ago, TrigrH said:

host teamspeak?

But personally I would suggest mumble for a home user. Teamspeak has a lot of restrictions for free users that Mumble doesn't have.

17 hours ago, Jourg said:

This would actually work as I plan on getting more monitors (3 I want)... Prob will just replace the current ones also. Anyone have a cheaper mount solution?

 

The desk is up against a wall, so wall mounting would work as long as I could adjust the monitors.

If you just want the three monitors than ergotech also makes a smaller version you can find here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BD0MPM

You just lose the ability to put the one monitor over top with that version. It also uses slightly smaller arms with only one pivot point on each side instead of 2 so you may lose some compatability with really large monitors (>24"). But it is cheaper. Also ergotech sells the pieces for the more expensive stand a-la carte so if you wanted to upgrade in the future you could simply buy the longer center pole and another mount for that 1-over-3 functionality.

XFX used to make a triple monitor stand too (I actaully own one), and as far as I can tell they actually use the same hardware as this cheaper ergotech stand. So you might be able to find that one too, not sure if they still make it. I'd recommend the ergotech ones though over top of this. The ergotech base is flat, so even though it takes up a bunch of desk space, you can still put papers and things on top of it, it isn't completely lost space. The XFX stand is all angular and really thick, so it takes up a bunch of desk space and makes that space practically unusable. Only reason I got the XFX one was because I couldn't find the ergotech's with the flat base in stock anywhere at the time.

1 hour ago, GER_T4IGA said:

Jayztwocents has this vesa mount with a huge base. Would something like that work? I am sure you can find a link to that one on his channel somewhere.

He uses the Ergotech 1 over 3 stand: http://ergotechgroup.com/gaming.html

Really made for more than 2 monitors, but if you are willing to spend the money, you can reconfigure it to just hold 2 monitors. All of the dedicated 2 monitor mounts I know of use the desk clamp style mount.

21 hours ago, Sauron said:

One nice thing might be getting notifications directly without accessing the site, maybe a widget or something.

This is actually technically possible now. At least on the android with chrome. Unsure about the iOS version. There has been the option to receive push notifications from websites for quite some time now actually. Not to many sites other than facebook support it as far as I know.

On 5/2/2016 at 9:01 PM, Godlygamer23 said:

Because SSDs use flash technology, there is a limit on the number of writes the memory cells can take before denying anymore of them. Read is technically unlimited though provided everything else is functional. 

This is something that everyone likes to make some huge deal out of, but let's be honest here. If so much data is written to an SSD that it's flash chips are killed it's not like a hard drive would have done any better in that situation. You'd be well beyond the hard drives MTBF by that point too and it would be just as, if not more likely to have failed.

Typically builds that have dual reservoirs and pumps are actually 2 separate loops within the system. One for CPU, the other for GPU, MoBo and RAM are typically thrown on the CPU loop if you are watercooling those too.

Dual Pumps on a single loop is typically used simply for redundancy so that if 1 pump dies than the other one is still able to operate and keep things cool. However, depending on how you plumb things you can get dual pumps to increase flow rate or head pressure. I've only ever seen the math with a closed system or single reservoir, I honestly don't know how things would be affected with 2 reservoirs and 2 pumps in the same loop.

My guess is that it would follow more closely to a parallel pump configuration which increases flow rate. Whereas serial pump configurations (one right after the other) increases pressure. 

18 minutes ago, bakua said:

My question is, since I prefer software RAID, will I be able to easily take to box and plug it to another computer? I mean, after I set it up for the first time, is it just plug and play ever since? Or do I have to do some setup every time for all computers I want to use it on? Windows only PCs, RAID 5.

This isn't going to work very well. It can work under certain circumstances, but it would be a pain. If you were using the same chipset across all computers you were plugging it into it would likely work. However, between chipsets there are normally changes to the software raid controller that make them incompatible with older versions. This isn't always the case, but it is the case the majority of the time. So if you have one system that is running skylake and another that is running sandy bridge, it is extremely unlikely that it would work, they simply wouldn't be able to read each other's volumes.

Also software RAID 5 is pretty terrible in write performance and I wouldn't recommend it. You really need a dedicated card to get good performance out of RAID 5 and 6 because of the calculation overhead the parity bits create.