Nitroblast

Lemme put that in a different way; I tried using the default power supply which works FINE with the PC and runs it fine if I don't do anything graphically intensive, but with the new one it doesn't. The old one is 80+ Bronze and the new one is 80+ Gold. I have tested the new one with some LEDs and it works fine. I really don't know what is going wrong.

There is no reason to get a PSU with more power, as I said it still doesn't work with only the CPU plugged in.

I can't see a switch on it apart from the on/off switch.

No, but I don't think that is the problem seeing as I tried unplugging everything except the CPU and nothing happened.

Yep, everything is definitely connected and I have tried it with only the CPU plugged in which I get the same result. Now that I mention it, Antec got me to take out the battery on the mobo and put it back in which also did nothing.

HP Z400 Workstation Specs: CPUIntel Xeon W3520 @ 2.67 GHz MotherboardGeneric HP Motherboard RAM10GB DDR3 GPUAsus Matrix Platinum 780TI CaseGeneric HP Case StorageBoot Drive: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB - Storage Drives: 2x 400GB Seagate HDDs in RAID 0 Backup Drive: 600GB Samsung HDD PSUGeneric HP 500W Display(s)LG 25UM65-P CoolingStock CPU Cooler - Random Fan Array KeyboardSharkoon Skiller MouseSharkoon Fireglider SoundTecknet HS800 Operating SystemWindows 8.1 Pro x64 I have a HP PC that I put a 780TI in, but when the load goes up it crashes due to (what I would assume) not enough power as I am only using two 6 pins (one from psu and one from a molex to 6-pin adapter) to connect it from the low wattage HP default PSU. So I bought an Antec True Power Classic 550W, which I then put in the PC and I got an error. The error code was 4 beeps then a pause which repeats along with the PSU fan spinning up for around a second, according to the HP site (http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=mmr_kc-0100459) that is a power failure. I then preceded to short the green and black pin with a paper clip on the Antec PSU and the fan spun up fine and worked absolutely fine. So I am really confused as to what the issue is, the only noticeable difference between the cables on the HP PSU and the Antec PSU is that the HP has the -5v white wire yet the Antec does not, this could be the issue but I am unsure - but the PC is from around 2009 I believe if that makes any difference. Any ideas?

That Antec one looks great, will get that. Thanks so much for your help

Hi, I have a HP Z400 Workstation that I got really cheap used that I put a GPU and SSD in, specs: Intel Xeon Quad Core W3520 2.67GHz Asus ROG Matrix Platinum GTX 780TI Samsung 840 EVO SSD (OS Drive, Windows 8.1 Pro) Two 400gb HDDs in RAID 0 8GB DDR3 RAM HP Motherboard DPS-475CB-1 A PSU (475W) The problem is that I cannot hook the GPU up right as there aren't two 8 pins which it requires, so I have a temp solution which is two 8 pin to two six pin adapters on each 8 pin hooked up to the PSU 6 pin and then two molex to six pin, the main issue is that whenever I load anything graphically intensive, the PC crashes instantly without any error message, which I would assume is because the GPU isn't getting enough power. It also requires a 4 pin CPU power cable that goes into the mobo. Does anyone have suggestions for a decent ATX PSU I can get in the UK for <£50 that has two 8 pins, at least 3 SATA power, 1 4 pin CPU power and a 24 pin mobo.

Ah. Well maybe they could try it again - because honestly I really don't like how the audience is not included, though I know why. ()

I just had an idea for the WAN show, why not have a call with a viewer a the end of the WAN show to discuss news/trending things/Linus stuff? Obviously you couldn't do it through Skype because of IP issues, so do it through Google Hangouts which I believe you cannot get someone's IP as it is going through Google Servers, and to call someone just make a form for people to submit their Google Email then randomly pick one from the results and call it. This would be good as it would make the show more interactive and could increase viewers. @LinusTech sorry if this has already been said or in wrong subforum >.<

Can you get it in the UK?

Hope I win, but good luck to everyone else! Vessel Username: Official_Arctic First Favourite Video: https://www.vessel.com/videos/G-DUjgUyY Second Favourite Video: https://www.vessel.com/videos/JYZEYDYx0 Social Media Share: https://twitter.com/Official_Arctic/status/580413533822795776

Please read the full post before recommending things next time, but I would see what you mean if I had not already bought the 780TI, and am waiting for the HyperX Predator M.2 240GB SSD but is it not released yet, so that is why it is not listed. I also will be overclocking and may add more power consuming things in the future, so I will not be going below 850w.

Right, I will definitely look into the AX1200i or HX1000i, but I will probably never add another 780TI due to what I will be doing, and considering that that model has already been discontinued, it will be unlikely I will even be able to find another so I will keep that in mind. I will probably change them out for WD Red or WD Black for the sheer reliability, speed and the warranty that is included with them.

Still can use a VPN no problem for e.g. when the pirate bay was up.

Can't wait to see if Anonymous respond to this :-)

David Cameron is a twat, Conservatives are twats, all the fucking parties are twats and democracy is a stinking mess.

I would say get a more 'rugged' one and put it in some rubber tubing for extra protection, and get Cat6 as you can get longer cables without any loss.

That is on Wireless N from a Chromebook upstairs and two rooms away from the router, we're on Virgin's 100mb plan. I cannot test wired until I get my new PC.

I will definitely consider a better PSU considering the amount I am already spending, seeing as Christianled59 said 1000w may be slightly overkill and a 1200i is extremely overkill, do you think an AX860i would be okay? I would honestly like to wait to see the price and speeds of the HyperX Predator, but if it isn't good, I will get the XP941 instead. Why wouldn't an SSHD be a good idea btw? I just put that there just in-case :3

I probably wouldn't see much difference with a Titan due to the fact that Cinema4D is mainly affected by the CPU, and it is £1000 here and the 780TI was £360... :3 and I have already bought the 780TI, infact it is right next to me so yeah :3

Thanks :3. As as I mentioned, I can go higher, but I will be waiting longer, and if I want to get SLI, I will have to get it soon as the 780TI has been discontinued which I really don't have the money allocated for right now. I also don't think I will need SLI for what I need to do for now. The 1000W PSU is simply for (F-Word) 'futureproofing' as I may add more things that will need that 1000w, and I definitely have the money for that over the 850w version.

Project Solar Don't ask me why I called it that. :3 Budget £2000-£2500 GBP The budget for this PC is really random, I could be spending £1000 or £3000, I don't necessarily have the money, but I have A LOT of time to get the money to pay for the components. I will be buying the parts in 'stages', even though it is not recommended, it is important for me personally for reasons I will not go into. This budget needs to include a monitor, components and chassis, any misc items will be noted by me. I already have parts that I have bought and I will not be returning them. Aim Gaming, Rendering, Editing, Coding, Media I will be using this PC for many many many different things, I want to be gaming at 60fps on high-ultra settings at 1440p on the latest AAA titles, e.g Far Cry 4 and Battlefield 4 but also things like MMOs. I will also be doing heavy rendering in Cinema4D and editing in Photoshop, Premiere Pro and After Effects. Finally I will be doing general media things like watching movies and web browsing like many other people. Monitors Single, 1440p I would definitely need an IPS monitor for colour work and for the fact that I hate TN panels, at least 60Hz with 1-8ms latency. Peripherals None I do not need any peripherals or an OS as I already have some that I will upgrade for better ones in the future. Why am I upgrading? Current PC = Slow My current PC is extremely slow, it is a 2010 laptop with a 2.67 Ghz dual core CPU, 6GB RAM, GT 315M GPU etc, it is very very slow. Brands These brands only I personally like some brands, and I don't like others for again reasons I will not go into. Obviously recommend products from other brands, but the chances are I will not use them, this is not for all builds but for this one I will most likely stick to the ones below.I am a very picky person unfortunately whether it is food to TV programmes, so please bear that in mind. Everything also has to be colour matched with red and black with the exception of some things. Components CPU - Intel GPU - Nvidia [ASUS] MOTHERBOARD - Republic of Gamers RAM - Corsair, HyperX CPU COOLER - Corsair, Be Quiet! HDD - Seagate, Western Digital SSD - Samsung, HyperX, Intel PSU - Corsair THERMAL COMPOUND - IC Diamond 7 Peripherals MONITOR - Asus KEYBOARD - Razer [Chroma] MOUSE - Razer [Chroma] HEADPHONES - Audio Technica, Sennheiser MICROPHONE - Blue, Sennheiser, Razer Plans Future plans for the PC In the future I have many many plans, which I will now state in order of what I plan to do, if you have any recommendations, please again tell me them but refer to the brands list above if you wish to do so without wasting your time. Upgrade Keyboard and Mouse Upgrade Headphones (Maybe get Magni 2 Uber & Modi 2 Uber) Upgrade Mic Upgrade external cable management Upgrade CPU cooler Large Upgrades Liquid cool system Build server/NAS, get rid of HDDs and switch to SSD + NAS storage Useful Information Please check this before replying With this PC, I have some of the things I will be doing listed. I will be running the two SSHDs in RAID 1 for redundancy so I do not lose all my data if one of the SSHDs fail, as I will have some important content, I will also be purchasing some shock adapters so I can put them in the 5.25" drive bays so I do not sacrifice airflow and space with drive cages. I chose SSHDs as they're cheaper than WD Black drives (Which is what I would have got instead) yet offer much better performance. With the SSD I am also looking at the HyperX Predator M.2 SSD which Linus featured in his CES coverage but is not yet released which is why an SSD is not listed yet. This system will be mounted on the top of my wardrobe, so there will not be much dust included with less noise as it is further away from me and with a DIY cooling system I showed off in another post, but with that I will install a custom switch to turn the PC on from my desk for ease of use. The front panel will be off so there is more airflow from the front fans, the top dust filter will be off as the fans there will be in an exhaust configuration and I have installed two dust filters in the bottom 120mm fans I again will not be returning anything I have already bought unless faulty of course, and will be buying in 'stages' which means I will buy a component once I have the money allocated for it instead of buying them all at the same time. I know the motherboard is completely overkill but there is a reason why I need to get that motherboard instead of another. If I forget to mention anything, I will update this post with the information. PC As of 17/01/2014. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor (£293.94 @ Aria PC) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Shadow Rock 2 87.0 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler (Purchased For £33.74) Motherboard: Asus RAMPAGE V EXTREME EATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard (£330.14 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£269.99 @ Scan.co.uk) Storage: Seagate 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive (£79.99 @ Aria PC) Storage: Seagate 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive (£79.99 @ Aria PC) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Matrix Video Card (Purchased For £359.99) Case: Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case (Purchased For £117.59) Power Supply: Corsair RM 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£136.75 @ Aria PC) Monitor: Asus PB278Q 27.0" Monitor (£449.08 @ Amazon UK) Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition 39.9 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For £11.63) Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 39.9 CFM 120mm Fans (Purchased For £19.62) Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 39.9 CFM 120mm Fans (Purchased For £19.62) Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan (Purchased For £12.00) Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan (Purchased For £12.17) Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan (Purchased For £12.17) Other: TP-Link 5 Port Gigabit 10/1000 Desktop Switch Black (Purchased For £12.60) Other: D-Link Twin Pack DHP-309AV/B Powerline AV500 Mini Adapter Starter Kit (Purchased For £23.75) Other: 120mm Silverstone SST-FF122B (Purchased For £3.47) Other: 120mm Silverstone SST-FF122B (Purchased For £3.47) Total: £2281.70 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-17 20:44 GMT+0000

Sorry I haven't replied. I really just did this as I love doing DIY stuff :3. For humidity, I will definitely buy a meter and check it, and if it is too high I will get a de-humidifer and put it in the box with the LED fan. Rain cannot get in as far as I have tested for a month which has been extremely rainy, the window opens so the slanted bit is stopping rain getting in those fans. Honestly, it gets very hot in this room even when the heating is off for whatever reason, and with a PC in a corner re-circulating the same hot air, I would assume it would get quite hot up there. It may not have a significant effect but in my opinion, its something a bit different I guess. I guess what I put above will answer that.

I made something where the idea is that it brings in cold air from the outside (This is the UK so it will be cold for virtually all the year :3), and then through ducting the cold air goes straight into the intake of my 750D (I am working on my new PC, I currently have a laptop), and will then go straight to the motherboard, GPU and CPU so they stay cooler so I can overclock them even more. It is currently extremely noisy as the end fan was a cheap one from Ebay which I will replace with a silent fans, there are actually two AF140 L fans on the other side of the box on the window and you cannot hear them at-all. The bubble wrap is to stop the wind coming in my room and making the door shake. The images are below. Box with two fans pulling air from window. The ducting which the air travels through. COMING SOON The box which the air is pulled back out of the ducting. COMING SOON The fan pulling the air out. What I have so far in terms of my PC build. Please could you give me some feedback on what you think this will do in terms of cooling for my PC, and if you like it .