cox1000

XFX are a very good brand, as brands go. But I wouldn't stick to a brand when shopping for graphics cards as different manufacturers' cards will have different strengths but always go for what is best at the price, not a particular brand.

In most cases, a lot. To get similar speeds as with gigabit wired, your router would have to support something around 1300Mbps 5GHz WiFi, your PC would need a WiFi-card that can do that as well, your PC would need line-of-sight to the router and you still might not get anywhere near the speed simply due to interference.
 
Load-times wouldn't be nearly as good as with a directly-connected HDD, if you were using wireless.

Reset SMC
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295
 

I'm plenty used to it my friend. I didn't say "PC enthusiasts aren't miners", I said "I believe I speak for most PC enthusiasts".

You shouldn't pair it with anything, the advantages are minimal and only if you run applications from those drives (the files of those applications would be cached in the optane drive over time and therefore accelerated).
 
Get a 128-256 GB SSD and install and run applications only from that SSD and use the mechanical drive for "static" files (music, video files etc) only... that makes more sense.

1060 6gb would be the idea spot I would think. 

This is literally the oldest rumor on the planet with the introduction year for these chips always being 2-3 years away. Every since Apple started designing their own chips for the iPhone and iPad this has been a rumor. No one has built an ARM chip at this size. Comparing the two in Geekbench isn't enough to tell me the performance is there and losing the incredible amount of software support that x86 has is stupid. Tell me when we see these in the wild because otherwise it's just another stupid rumor to add to the pile.

The same day "they" ban CPUs from gaming or RAM sticks from performing scientific computations. In other words, the dark day when "they" start telling you what you can and can't do with your versatile, general purpose computers.

Why do you complain you get top quality videos for free and people are working on this and want to get payed the days where youtube ads where enough are long gone. I think its totally fine what they do. 

Use powerline adapters instead. Cheap and much faster than WiFi.

Banned for typing there instead of their.

Copy and paste doesn't work for me either

Wished, I googled this thread before I but my card down at synergy... Been trying to get this program to work with a 3rd windows laptop with no information at all. 
 
Currently mouse and keyboard working with OSX and Windows. but to add another windows machine... Hopeless... Paid for the PRO Version can't get copy and paste to work... 
 
 

I have used reds, blacks, and blues in my system before. So I'm going to give you my experiences with them, please not that they may not represent every drive produced, and the enterprise grade drives may well provide marginally better reliability. I have a few hard drives (12 in total), and that number has varied a fair bit thought out time. I have a storage server, which is power on and off when I need it, so this will be similar in load to running in a desktop. My experience of buying enterprise grade drives is that most of them don't last a great deal longer than a 'good' consumer drive. I have had Hitachi (before acquisition) ultrastar drives been outlived by cheap Seagate drives. With that said, I have not tried the new WD enterprise grade drives. All hard drives die, it's a fact, you can have a cheap hard drive last 10 years, and you can have a really expensive one die in a few months. 
 
I have had 2 black drives, and while they are faster than the others in the line-up (faster sequential and random performance), they run hotter and substantially louder. The current blue line-up consists of rebadged old greens with some firmware tweaks (5400 RPM Blues that is), and I think they have reduced the insane head parking frequency that used to kill them off quickly. Then, there are the old blue drives, which spin at 7200RPM, this is how they are differentiating them now. I have had 1 black die, and make a painful amount of noise in the process. 
 
The reds have always been very solid, although they do have a lower revolution speed (5400 RPM), which is something to consider if speed is important. I have never had one die, they are quiet and they run quite cool. 
 
The gold drives spin at 7200 RPM, and are rated for a longer period of operation before failure. These will most likely be on average the best drives to use if you just want it to work for as long as possible, regardless of the actual
price / gb / year. HGST also have drives available, and they might be worth considering. Their ultrastar drives are practically unrivalled when it comes to reliability, but they are more expensive. I have ultrastars from 2006 that are still spinning away happily (although of course, this is not a large enough sample size on which to make a decision).
 
It is also worth noting that backblaze (https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-failure-rates-q3-2017/), because they feel that the enterprise drives are more expensive, and the reliability gains are not that great. The link above is to the statistics of the length of time their drives last. It is very difficult to say what is the best value solution, and it does depend quite a lot on the price for which you purchase the drives, as well as luck. 
 
I personally think that WD reds would work just as well for you as WD Golds, and they come with 3 year warranties. Generally speaking, hard drives have a fairly high infancy mortality rate, which then decreases after a few months, and then finally increases again as the drive ages. So, if it lasts 3 years with no bad sectors, it will probably last a fair bit longer too. 
 
 

Yep. I put elemantryOS on quite a few older family member's machines, and I get far fewer calls for help than when they were running windows. It's not the most lightweight distro in the world, but it fits the other requirements nicely. 

Thanks for the suggestion @GoodBytes! As you guessed though, I am using Synergy for the cross-platform functionality. Synergy 1.8 is still great but after being spammed with "Upgrade to Synergy 2.0 today!" nearly every day in my inbox I discovered the hard way that it is a mess. Even today I tried using 2.0 and the auto-config service was down again. To make it worse, their support is away until January 8th! I guess they like to take long vacations now that they charged all those upgrade fees...

Really hope LMG does a PSA on it if they are going to continue to support and advertise them.

I discovered Synergy, a program by Symless, through one of the ad spots on the LTT videos. It worked great, exactly as advertised and well worth the purchase. However, they've recently released a 2.0 version which removes a lot of functionality and even becomes completely unusable when their "auto-config" service is down - which happens very often. I have reached out to their support forums and found many other users complaining about this newer version as well. To make it worse, there is a $49 upgrade fee to go from 1.0 Pro to 2.0 Pro. The 1.0 version allowed you to configure hotkeys, remap keybinds, setup dead zones, start and stop the service and so much more while the new 2.0 version has literally zero options. The only way to stop the 2.0 program is to go into Window services and stop it. On a Mac, you need to run a shell command as root. I wouldn't have a problem if this was labeled as beta or if the upgrade was free but that isn't the case. To make it worse, there are many times when the new version cannot connect to their "auto-config" service which makes the program completely useless.

I know LMG takes its advertisers serious and I hope this will draw a little attention and save people money/hassle involved with the newer version. Stay away from the 2.0 and stick with 1.8.

The default gateway is the address where everything the device doesn't know how to reach directly gets sent. In this case that's going to be your router, it will know how to get out to the rest of the internet via a default route provided to it by your ISP.
The gateway is different because you've probably got a different router or setup from your friends. Most will use 192.168.something.1 but sometimes they will flip it and use 192.168.something.254

If it is in a plastic case you can more than likely remove the plastic and it will be a standard 2.5" or 3.5" drive. I'm no professional but maybe someone else can correct me if I'm wrong.

Forget about the RAID. Have 2 volumes one a backup of the other. RAID won't protect from accidental deletion, overwrite or file/filesystem corruption.  RAID is for minimizing downtime in the event of hardware failure. This is not really a concern in your use case.

I feel that an added place to discuss cyber security in gaming would be a good thing to include. Topics such as system hardening, best practices in regards to streaming/gaming, vpns, firewalls, and other assorted aspects in a sub forum. Some of this may fall under operating systems. However, I think that such a sub forum with a hardening guide for new builders or even current enthusiasts could benefit the community.

looks like i did indeed miss it  
 
oops

Razer's QC and customer support are notoriously terrible.

Try this ;
https://unetbootin.github.io/

This wikipedia article suggests that the standard will be published late this year, and will be implemented in consumer CPUs / motherboards by around 2020.