Silverwolf_7

If this is related to your previous post about the UK phillips hue bulbs not working in the US then I'd say to just get new fixtures in the US that run on 120VAC. Jury rigging electric devices that will be plugged in for the majority of their life isn't a good idea. In the long run it will be cheaper to just get new lights rather than have your house burn down because you didn't wire something properly or the new part fails for some reason. In addition any outlet cannot according to code, be converted from 120 to 240. Additional wire of the proper gauge and receptacles rated for 240VAC must be installed to safely carry the higher voltage. Some devices may have a switch (such as pc power supplies) that allows the user to select the voltage being used.

The wire gauge doesnt really matter so long as it fits in the breadboard. 16 might be too thick for the breadboard. Solid wire will be easier to use with a breadboard than stranded. Watch the length of your runs, the signal may die out due to resistance before it reaches its destination.

Can you show us the lamp. I've never heard of a lamp that runs off 240volts. 240 is usually reserved for high power devices to get the same power without drawing alot of current.

Just get some 22 AWG solid core wire and strip the ends to plug it into a breadboard.

What kind of lamp runs off of 240VAC(I'm assuming its AC not DC)? Use a step up transformer. Just remember that if voltage is increased,current will decrease to keep an equal amout of power on each coil of the transformer(no free energy). Alot of electric dryers run of 240VAC so one of those outlets may work. Or if don't have a 240VAC outlet you can get a 2-pole 240v circuit breaker for your electrical panel to pull 240VAC from it. Panels divide incoming voltage onto 2 busbars which are 110-120 VAC each, recombining the voltage gives you 240 volts again. Just don't go poking around your electrical panel unless you know what you are doing.

You said you tested it on concrete and wood. So why don't you test it yourself and come back to tell us what happened? Also all matter is conductive its just that many materials have an extremely high or near infinite resistance to electron flow than others (aka insulators).

For future reference you can also score them with a knife then snap them apart off the edge of a sturdy table.

Does the switch have an led inside? That's what the +/- pins are probably for. As for the NO NC and C contacts, I'd try to connect the NO and C. Check continutiy with a multimeter to see which contacts pass current when the switch is depressed, then use those contacts.

How far, how fast, and how much weight. Answer those questions then you can calculate the specifications for a motor.

I have this soldering station and it works great even for surface mount components. https://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-SSVT-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1480212201&sr=8-11&keywords=soldering+station If you buy a different iron make sure you use a conical tip instead of a chisel one. Its smaller and easier to reach smaller spaces.

I had the same reason for wanting a drone. I built a tricopter and it works. However if you want to get professional results buy a drone. Nothing you build yourself in any reasonable amount of time will perform the same as a drone designed by a company with the proper R&D resources such as DJI. I had great fun building and flying my tricopter but it performs nothing like a Phantom. Good footage is hard to get without a proper gimbal and smoothed movement. If you want to have fun build a drone, if you want good footage and fun buy one.

I dunno how well a portable cd player will work in a car, all of mine seemed to skip whenever I would hit a bump or move it the wrong way.

I doubt the wire will overheat, electrical tape or heat shrink will be fine. I've used electrical tape, heatshrink, and electrical tape on my tricopter which draws close to 30 amps and it hasn't burst into flames yet so you'll be fine with it for what you're doing.

As for the Oscilloscope a cheap diy kit isn't a bad choice if you're just getting started, it's a good kit to practice soldering with and it can be useful for visualizing simple waveforms or signals from a microcontroller. It's not gonna be super accurate but if you're just getting started you probably don't need or understand it enough yet to need it.

Fluke meters are the best but they are expensive. As a robotic engineering major I use them all the time, however my personal meter is a cheap $20 ebay meter that works just fine for most of my projects. I'll get a fluke at some point but not until I need it. Don't buy something you don't need. Back to the iFixit meter, it's not auto ranging which can be annoying because you have to have an idea of what your measurement will be before taking it. I've had this one for a while:https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1474304167&sr=8-5&keywords=digital+multimeter This is the one you should probably get:https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-Crenova-MS8233D-Auto-Ranging-Multimeters/dp/B00KXX2OYY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474304167&sr=8-7&keywords=digital+multimeter The fluke if you really want it:https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-115-Compact-True-RMS-Multimeter/dp/B000OCFFMW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474304278&sr=8-2&keywords=digital+multimeter+fluke

If you want to build a drone with brushed motors the drone is gonna have to be about the size of your palm. How do you plan on controlling this thing? It's not gonna be able to lift a cable at that size and wireless remotes are pretty costly themselves considering your budget. Some projects are just impossible to build without a proper budget. As this is a school project maybe there's a grant or shcholarship for engineering research projects at your school?

This series should answer your question.

You could make this bigger...

I managed to hide my dashcam behind the mirror and tuck the wire under the roof and through the A pillar. As for GPS my phone fits perfectly into the screen for the sound system which I don't really use anyway. If you do test runs with the wires and plan before hand you'll have a much better experience than if you just buy a do all device.

You can't check the values of a component if it is still installed in the circuit. The test signal that the multimeter sends out will find a different way around.

Do you have the KK2 set to quadcopter mode? Otherwise the output pins will give a signal to a servo or another part for different aircraft configurations.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HX2T04/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&=boost&srs=12034488011&qid=1453076482&sr=8-2&keywords=voxoa&linkCode=sl1&tag=socialtech109-20&linkId=e7a5912a1cecf05ebc95b1296b42887f

They suck. Expensive considering how cheaply a good pc can be built for these days. I have an Aurora R4 which began to have problems literally a week before the warranty ran out. The fans would run at full speed all the time for no reason it just started one day. Support does absolutely nothing and continued ignoring calls for a week till it ran out. Performance was ok just build your own and save money and trouble.

Flux might help but a good pair of tweezers and a pointed clean iron go a long way.

1.Take it apart. 2. Find the value of the pot or the part number. 3. Find and order a replacement. 4. Put it in. 5. Profit!!!