Silverwolf_7

You will need a mosfet or motor controller like the one you linked to drive the motor from the arduino. Wire a voltage regulator in parallel with the source to drive the arduino while pulling 12v from the source to drive the motor controller. As for attaching something to the motor shaft it depends on your use. A 3d printed object would work depending on how much torque will be applied to it. Usually a set screw goes against the flat face of the motor shaft through the side of the hole to prevent the sprocket or gear from shifting. Pretty much any nano clone will work or maybe I'm just lucky with mine. Out of curiosity what are you trying to make?

If you install ROS http://www.ros.org/ on it I think that would be a good starting point.

My university doesn't really recognize our robotics team either. We're considered a club so we have to appeal every year for funding from the student senate. At least we're allowed to display our awards and robots in the engineering building. Have you looked into grants or fundraisers? With only 4 active members I know it's hard to take on extra work but the experience will be worth it. Back to the robot. Is there a certain controller or computer that it has to use?

Can you link the rules or give us a better idea of the task and environment the robot will face? From what I've seen of FRC the autonomous portion is only 15 seconds or so at the start of the match. Lidar and gps is overkill for 15 seconds. Dead reckoning will work just as well. I saw this the other day. It has some good information on how mobile autonomous systems work. https://hackernoon.com/ghost-my-plan-to-race-an-autonomous-rc-car-46a4b7f093cd

Nice find and build but I'm surprised that the FAA lets you use a DIY device for that. They usually like to wrap everything up in red tape.

The batteries aren't that big something like a 4-6s lipo is what most people seem to use. Factory made boards usually use Li-on or Li-fe 18650 batteries (im not sure about the cell count or pack organization). As for the 4 motors I think 2 is the sweet spot. You need a seperate ESC for each motor so 4 gets to be really expensive. Also 4 motors means less range than with 2. Go with a wireless remote. Its much safer and you won't break your board if you fall off. Bigger wheels won't really help I have 90mm wheels and a medium piece of gravel will stop the board. Maybe look into something like a mountain board with air filled tires if the potholes are going to be a big problem.

You need a smurf to get silver 4?

I used https://hamstudy.org/. It has the exact questions you will see on the test. Just do a couple sections a night and you'll be all set. As for the transmitting, your radio will be set to a certain frequency. It will "play" any signal it receives on that frequency. This is listening to a frequency. If you press the transmit button on the side or on the mic your radio will switch to transmit mode. Any signals recieved will be ignored and any input to the microphone will be transmitted on the frequency you were listening on. As long as you don't press the transmit button your radio will remain in listening/receiving mode.

As long as you don't transmit there really isn't a way for someone to find out if you're listening. But it's a good idea to at least pass the Technician exam before messing with the stuff. You'll have a much better time if you atleast have an idea of how radios work.

@straight_stewieI think you're right. I tested it and there was a noticable difference. However standing up while doing that is out of the question. I'd guess the entrance angle is lagging behind the current rotation of the motor causing the brake effect. Maybe a sensored motor and esc can fix it?

I recently finished my first longboard build so here's my 2¢: 1. Avoid circular trucks (such as paris) unless you're using hub motors or can TIG weld your motor mount to the truck. Find something with a "D" shape like caliber trucks. It will make your life so much easier when mounting the motor bracket. 2. Do not cheap out on electronics. I started with a 80A airplane esc. Totally failed. Moved up to a hobbyking 120A boat esc. I ride it to class most days and it works but there are some quirks such as this. 3. Look into a VESC, it will make the board safer and add more functionality to it (regenerative braking, sensored motors, etc) while also making it more like a factory board (boosted board). 3. For a 205lb person you will not get anywhere with hills without 2 motors and a high voltage battery (>20V). My 120A ESC overheats going up a relatively small hill with a 130 lb rider and a 20V battery. Good luck and have fun!

It's not coasting thats a problem but accelerating again while still moving. Coasting works like you would expect it to with no auto brake. But if you try to throttle up from 0 while coasting the board stops suddenly.

A hobbyking 120A boat esc. Witha cheapo chinesium 400KV I think.

So I recently completed my first iteration of an electric skateboard however there has been an issue with my speed controller. When accelerating to speed it works fine however if I let the throttle off and begin to coast my motor brakes suddenly when accelerating again while still moving at a decent speed. Any ideas as to why?

You can have both manual and automatic control. Just program an arduino to move the servos to a certain configuration depending on either manual input with a button or with a photo sensor for the hanging limp if the lights are turned off.

Your guess sounds plausible. The train with the more conventional electric motors relies on the traction of the wheels on the rail to move forward or stop much like an electric car. The traction is easily lost due to metal on metal contact not having great frictional properties, most of the traction comes from the weight of the train itself. This is why cog rails exist. Trains simply cannot climb steep hills without something to increase the friction or traction between the wheels and the rails. The train with linear motors uses the wheels for balance while the power comes from alternating magnetic fields in the central rail. Thus no traction from the main wheels is needed to move forward or stop.

Series increases voltage(Volts), parallel increases capacity (milliampere hours). 2 1.5v batteries in series will yield 3 volts nominal voltage.

1. It does not print in 16.5 million colors just because it has red, green, and blue filament in the picture. Light mixes differenly from pigment or reflected color. 2. I'm not sure why it has fans on the stepper motors on the top of the printer if the hot end is way down near the print bed. The fan for the cool end is useless as it is separated from the hot end by about 150mm. 3. Does the filamet have enough force to be pushed through the hot end with such a distance between the feed stepper motor and the extruder? Chinesium printers only cause work and frustration. My school's robotics team has 2 cheapo printers sitting broken and covered in dust on a shelf. 4 makerbots replaced them. You get what you pay for.

If there aren't too many leds you might be able to run them directly the arduino with a resistor on the ground pin and using a digital write command to turn the 3 colors on and off and PWM for brightness or effects. If you have a long strip you may need to use a transistor or mosfet to switch the colors on and off to avoid frying the arduino with too much current.

1. Get some wire and a piece of perf board. 2. Solder it together. 3. Repeat.

CNC has spoiled me. A coping saw, some files, sandpaper and elbow grease/time is all you really need.

It works just like as the red Weller station for $50. I haven't had any problems with it. It solders thick wire quite well.

I have this: https://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-SSVT-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1487728789&sr=8-13&keywords=soldering+iron I also got one of these for temperature control while at school. It works fine even if the rest of the kit is kinda sketchy. I got mine for $12 but I couldnt find it at that price again. https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B01M1CS2I5/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487728842&sr=1-4&keywords=soldering+iron

It should but it has a 100watt peak maximum capacity so assuming your light consumes less than 80-90watts it should work.