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Hi Guys, I'm playing my third run of CP2077. Done with the main questline, done with almost everything else. Suddenly, the game starts crashing 5-60s after loading. Everytime. It does not matter which savegame I select. I've changed nothing, was just playing along when this started... Any ideas? edit: I removed any overclock/undervolting, updated GPU driver and checked my RAM already.

There can be many reasons for that. Easiest would be to rule out any software influence first. Easiest way is to boot to bios and see if it is still there. I've seen pink tint when windows was trying to run HDR on a non-HDR monitor for some reason... Next is the cable and ports on GPU and Monitor. You changed the cable already, but can you go to a different port? E.g. HDMI, DP or DVI (whatever you are not using and is present on all devices). I assume you do not use VGA, correct? Last would be to check your PC on a different display (e.g. TV) to determine if the monitor or your pc is the issue. But then, you definetly have a serious hardware issue. Many of the typical problems can be repaired at home, if you have the time for that. So do not throw away your GPU or Monitor when you are at this point. edit: You might also want to check the color settings on your monitor. Likely not the reason for your issue, but it takes just 2min to check..

I would also recommend buying the highest speed ones. As @DarkSwordsmansaid, real-world speed is a gamble and almost always significantly lower than on the box. So with a 1200Mbps kit, the highest I've ever seen was an average of ~350MBps - Which is not too bad, actually.

Yes, there are adapters on amazon both from 6-pin (PSU) to 8-pin (GPU) and the other way around. For a 980, you can safely do this. Probably this is, what you are looking for: https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B07BPP5F65 I would not recommend running a 4090 from a single 6-pin though, even if there are adapters for that too

Btw.: I have to re-install my driver from time to time, as windows keeps installing bad ones over the manufacturers driver. I do have different issues with the windows one, but is there a way to block is permanently?

Be careful to buy the right connector. There is SMA and SMA-RP. The difference is where the pin is located: on the "male" or "female" connector. I've just learned that by ordering the wrong extensions 50Ohms is correct.

Have you configured your router to have the same or different SSIDs for 2.4 and 5 GHz? I just set mine to have different ones to force devices to either use 5G or 2.4G edit: If you can't see the 5GHz SSID, then I would agree: Probably bad driver

Has anyone results on hardcore burn-in tests on the existing OLEDs in Laptops or the Alienware? I am *very* careful with my OLED TV an notice some slight burn in on plain gray surfaces from time to time. If I would use it as a monitor for 100hr, it would definetly have noticeable effects... EDIT: I do not want to make any statement to the reliability of OLED monitors. It is definetly a different kind of technology, than my first-gen TV. Just asking a genuine question about data on that.

Typically, consumer devices are rated to not exceed 40°C on the outside. You can test this, by fully gripping on the power brick for a short time (<30s). It can get unconfortable warm, but if you feel pain and have to release it, it might be damaged.

Wipe of the dust and any significant dirt first with any clean cotton cloth. Then use a clean microfiber cloth for car cleaning (non scratching) damp with destilled water. Never wash this cloth, just replace it after 1-2 years or so. This way, you avoid any streaks. Never use anything besides water on your screen. It might damage your anti-reflective coating.

Hi, as far as I do understand: You do want to use a desktop at low power state instead of specialized synology hardware as a NAS? If so, there may be options. However, please elaborate on your available hardware and what exactly you want to achieve. Lowering the power of a typical desktop to a few watts is generally rather inefficient, as x86/64 is not the most efficient low power architecture and desktop PSU's have almost no efficiency at the <<20W operating point. So, a low power ARM synology will be always more efficient. But so may be a rasberry pi based home made NAS. And the initial investment for a Raspi is lower than a synology. In my opinion, you should not buy synology for the hardware. You should for the software, though. They are the "apple of NAS" - It is quite easy to use, but very powerful (if you want). But, you can do the same (and better) yourself for a lower price, if you want to put the hours in. I do like tinkering, but for my NAS I've bought a low-end synology. After setup, it is running with minimal maintanance since 2015. It is one of my favorite pieces of HW, because it is relentlessly doing it's job - At avg. of <5W for a single bay!

First things first: Can you install any monitoring software, e.g. MSI afterburner? Then, play your favorite games and take a look to GPU usage, CPU usage, temperatures and frequencies over time. If you want, please post the graphs here. This should give you a clear indication, if you even need to overclock and if so - how much. Just overclocking for the fun of it is fine. But if gaming performance is your goal, you really need to log data first.

TL:DR: CPU is faster, but mainboard is more accurate. It really depends on your configuration. Judging from your signature, you do have a rather modest TDP cpu with a very powerful cooler and a well ventilated case. In such a scenario, the CPU cooler is able to keep the processor in check without case fans. If it heats up more than typically, it is the result of increased case temperature caused by concurrent GPU activity - That's when you need your case fans to ramp up. So, setting the case fans to ramp up ~5° later than the CPU fan should yield you almost ideal results and very fast reaction time. Your CPU Fan should reach full speed at 70°C, your case fans at 75-80°C based on your target noise level. And if you want to go crazy, I can only recommend "Speedfan". It is a software tool to run very complex fan settings based on multiple temperature reads. While a pain to set up, it is able to give you the best cooling control. If you want to go this road and need support, I'm happy to help But honestly, just using CPU will probably give you 95% optimal results with your cooler/case.

Just ordered the 5600 (non X), as I found it on sale. Overall upgrade cost incl. RAM and Mainboard is less than a i5-13600k

Yeah, should've read the full specification Okay, 5600X. Still, quite a good deal.