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specialistHUN

Member
  • Content Count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About specialistHUN

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday October 2

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Baja,Hungary
  • Interests
    Gaming,films,history,languages.
  • Biography
    I like cats.

System

  • CPU
    i5 3570k
  • Motherboard
    AsRock Z75 Pro 3
  • RAM
    2x4GB Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz
  • GPU
    Sapphire R9 280 Dual-X
  • Case
    Sharkoon T9 Value Red
  • Storage
    1x Seagate Barracuda 500GB SATA3, 1x Seagate Barracuda 200GB SATA2 (to be replaced by WDC10EZEX) and A-Data 2.5" XPG SX900 256GB
  • PSU
    Chieftec Smart 650W
  • Display(s)
    Philips 244E5QHAD
  • Cooling
    Stock Cooler (to be replaced by 212EVO)
  • Keyboard
    Chicony KBP-0108 (to be replaced by CoolerMaster CM Storm QuickFire TK Red)
  • Mouse
    MSI DS 100
  • Sound
    Kingston HyperX Cloud II
  • Operating System
    Windows 8.1 x64

Recent Profile Visitors

329 profile views
  1. My friend reported no thermal related problems, but he has a Noctua cooler.
  2. I came to a similar conclusion that maybe a delidding would help. I know a guy who has the tools and does it so I will send it over. Even if ultimately something else ends up being the problem (other than a broken CPU lol), a fresh tim would only do good. I bought that cooler 5 years ago but it never crossed my mind that the paste could expire in that tube. To be honest, my i5 3570k had the same paste on since then, I never got myself to replace the paste as the temps remained pretty much the same throughout the years. When I got the tube out two days ago, the paste coming out seemed fine, it didn't separate or look watery etc. and when I removed the cooler from my i5, the 5 years old paste was still spreadable. But next week I'll go and get some newer, better quality paste just to be sure. I also took a picture of the paste spread yesterday after I removed the cooler the first time, assuming that I didn't install it correctly. I'm far from an expert but this doesn't look bad to me, correct me if I'm wrong though. I used Linus' uncooked grain of rice method and tightened the screws in a cross pattern.
  3. Yes and yes. I already remounted the cooler twice, everything seems to be alright, the paste is spread out evenly in a nice circle. And both the BIOS and Windows picks it up as a 4790k. Yet I keep coming back to the cooler. I've just noticed something. Even after letting the AIDA stress test run for 10 minutes and technically boiling my CPU at 100°C, the cooler is blowing out cold air and the heatpipes are cold to the touch, even close to the socket. So something seems to not transmit the heat properly, but I checked out the cooler twice already, it's mounted fine, it's firm, the screws are tightened, there's no wiggle, no play to the thing, it's seems to sit flush against the CPU. I really can't wrap my head around it. All I can think of that maybe the CPU's own thermal compound gone wrong? Maybe I should delid the thing? It's driving me nuts because this is the second day that I can't use my computer because of this.
  4. I reset the bios settings, did everything short of a CMOS clear. And as I wrote in the thread, I have a CM412S with an Arctic F12 Pro PWM fan.
  5. Hello everybody, my best friend just upgraded his computer and decided to give me his old hardware because he knows that I can't afford anything new for my PC. I know that the 4790k is an outdated chip (just watched Steve's new video on it) but it's still an upgrade to my old 3570k, low-end Z75 mobo and 8GB of RAM, plus it was for free, so why not install it? Next to the CPU itself, I got an ASRock Z97 Extreme 4/3.1 motherboard and a 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400MHz DDR3 kit. After installing this "new" hardware, I did a few system stability tests and it quickly turned out that my CPU is overheating. After 5 seconds of AIDA64 CPU stress test, my temps jumped up to 100°C on one core, and about 90-95°C on the rest. The test reported 4-8% thermal throttling and my CPU core clock was staying anywhere between 4 and 4.2 GHz with some split second dips to 3.8-3.9 GHz. IIRC 100°C is below TJ max but I didn't want to cook my new, much appreciated hardware and stopped the testing after 5 minutes. I started to look at my idle temps which were quite high as well, about 40°C sitting on the Windows start screen and oddly about 55°C when I'm in the BIOS. The temps will start slowly creeping up by one degree at a time after 15-30 minutes. My CPU cooler is a Cooler Master 412S with the stock non-PWM CM fan replaced by an Arctic F12 Pro PWM that has quite an aggressive fan curve (I wear headphones, don't care about them sounding like a gas turbine). It ran my old i5 3570k (non-OC) at about 30°C idle and 55-60°C whilst gaming (never did a 100% load stress test though). My friend has a NH-U12S which allowed him to run this same CPU with an all-core 4.4GHz overclock at ~70°C. I know that the 4790k is a hot chip and my CM412S has worse performance than my friend's Noctua, but I still find my temps unrealistically high. I was looking at quite a few forums and CPU/cooler tests and it seems like that even the Intel stock cooler performs better than my cooler. A CM Hyper 212 EVO, which has comparable performance to my cooler, reaches about 85°C on a stress test according to one of the reviews I found. I thought that maybe I installed my cooler incorrectly so I removed it, replaced the thermal compound (the one CM included in the box), re-installed the heatsink, no change in temps. Then I repeated this again, this time also reinstalling the cooler's back plate because I read on a forum that an incorrectly installed back plate might cause issues, no change in temps. I removed my Arctic PWM fan and added CM's stock "silent" fan just out of curiosity, no change in temps. I removed the case's side panel for better airflow, no change. My ambient temp is 22°C. I started to mess around in software, I put my fans on maximum speed, no change; I put them on auto, no change. I started to look around the BIOS to see if maybe something's wrong there, but the only setting I changed after my friend reset his BIOS before giving it to me, was enabling XMP. The BIOS is running the latest "beta" version 1.71 that was released back in 2018 as a fix to Meltdown. All the core clock and voltage settings are on Auto, nothing has been touched. I get the following readings in BIOS as per the H/W Monitor: CPU Input Voltage: +1.792 V CPU Vcore: +1.048 V CPU Cache Voltage: +1.232 V System Agent Voltage: +1.112V CPU Analog IO Voltage: +1.168 V CPU Digital IO Voltage: +1.208 V Based on my search these are pretty much the standard values on this chip. Disabling XMP didn't change anything either. So to sum it up, I believe that my CPU should not run this piping hot and other reviews seem to confirm that, but seemingly there's nothing I did wrong and all of my remediate actions were unsuccessful. My last idea is to buy a better cooler, but I'm not exactly full of cash. I was looking at the Cryorig H5 Universal, which according to some tests should handle even a medium OC on this CPU, but I'm still finding it hard to believe that my current cooling setup is this inadequate (especially when the stock cooler seems to perform better based on other forum threads and tests). Any idea what could be wrong or what else should I try? My main concern is that what if I spend 50-60€ on a new, better cooler and get the same problem. I know that the CPU worked just fine a month ago in another system... Any help is much appreciated, thanks! Regards, specialist
  6. I need to look into something cheaper...170€ is simply impudent.
  7. I've been waiting for this mouse to come out since its first reveal. In the meantime my current mouse is dying on me (half of the buttons aren't even working anymore ). What really bothers me that there are barely any updates on these stuffs, apparently they were announced for November 2015 then Q1 2016 and what now? If this think won't come out in like a month I'll have to go for the Corsair Scimitar...seeing the price it would cost me half as much anyways what the hell is 140€ in a mouse?
  8. Hey, I've built a new PC for my grandma (for internet, some movies, light Windows Movie Maker editing) and after the building I proceeded to Windows install. Here I have to admit that I wanted to install a pirated Windows on her PC because she didn't have the money for a clean Windows. I already had a pirated Windows 8.1 burnt on a DVD but I wanted to try Windows 10, I was like: If it works, huzzah, if it doesn't then install the good old Win 8.1. So I downloaded a pirated Windows 10 Pro x64 and burnt it to a DVD. After this I put the DVD into the DVD ROM of the new rig and it immediately told me to press a button if I want to boot from the DVD. I did so (just like so many times before), I got into the installer and I did the usual things. I set the language and added the partitions. I used my old 500GB Seagate HDD that was 1st my primary drive with Win 8.1 on, the it got replaced by an SSD and I used it as secondary drive, finally I added a WD Blue 1TB and this drive went to a temporary retirement. So with everything done the installation has started and after a couple of minutes it finished and I got the message that the system will reboot to continue the install. But after the reboot it didn't continue with the usual personalization settings but reseted everything and threw me back to language selection. Well I tried it again, I checked and my partitions were the same but I couldn't install windows, I got the message that "Windows cannot be installed to this drive" no matter how I deleted or reformatted my drive I got this message. I exited and checked the BIOS, everything seemed good, but I pressed the Load Optimized Defaults again just to be sure and restarted the progress. I could repartition everything again and finished the install one more time but it was the same thing: back to language settings. After this I tried manually booting up from the DVD drive 1st and then after the restart from the HDD but it was all the same, no matter where I booted from after the install it threw me back to the beginning. If I dismounted my DVD I just got the message that I should mount a proper boot drive. At this point I thought that this is some Windows 10 related glitch so I just pulled my trustworthy pirated Win 8.1 CD out (that I used for Windows install at least 20 times including to that 500GB drive like a year ago) and started the same thing. No difference, it did the same thing with Win 8.1. At this point I was really confused and just picked some old 200GB SATA II drive but the results were the same. I really don't know what to do I assume I'm missing something from the BIOS but I think I've tried everything. First I didn't really set everything just loaded the optimized defaults and enabled XMP plus made sure that AHCI is enabled. I tried setting up the boot sequence differently, or by pressing F12 and doing it manually but no change. Any ideas what am I missing? I've build like a dozen PCs already and I never had issues with Windows installation. Please help! Specs: - Intel Pentium G3260 - Gigabye B85M D3H - 2x2GB Corsair Vengeance LP 1600MHz - Seagate Barracuda 500GB
  9. I don't have a bathtub at home and I don't have the budget to get one. If I put it under my showerhead whould it cool the PC properly?
  10. Hey! I have an i5 3750k with an Asrock Z75 Pro 3 motherboard. Sofar I've been using the stock cooler which well got the job done but it's really loud and during gaming I get temps around 70-75°C which is probably not to good over a longer term. So I've decided to replace it with something more capable. I have the budget of 12.000 HUF which should be around 40 USD however I can spend some extra if needed. I was looking at some aftermarket coolers and the CM Hyper 212 Evo seems like a great cooler but I've seen some other nice ones. Most notably the CM Hyper 412S which has about the same price and for me the design looks almost identical aswell but I like the looks of the Hyper 412S better. Does this perform better/same? Or what's the difference? Other coolers I saw in about the same price range ( + - 5$) are the Arctic Freezer 13 Limited Edition, Be Quiet Pure Rock and Thermalright True Spirit 120i. For bit more money (at the very edge of my budget) I saw the CM Hyper 612 Ver.2 and the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power. Would one of these be a better solution instead of a 212 Evo? Another question is: I've seen some Arctic fans on 40% discount, the F12 Pro PWM and the F12 PWM Rev2. Would it be worthy to replace the stock fan of the original cooler with these and like strap a second one to the other side in a push-pull config? Which of the above mentioned heatsinks support 2 fans and which have the mounting hardware for it? Thank you!
  11. Yeah I just checked it. I bought it because it was really cheap due to a discount. I didn't even think that this might be the problem. Thank you for enlightening me! I'll get a new one immediately. Can you recommend me something with good quality? I thought about this: A-Data DashDrive Elite UE700 64GB AUE700-64G-CBK.
  12. Hey! I've just got a new(ish) PC with a mobo that supports USB 3.0. I became really happy since I'm transferring big files all the time and I couldn't wait to get a high transfer speed. So I've just bought a USB 3.0 pendrive in the local store. It's a Kingston Datatraveler Mini 3.0 32GB DTM30/32GB. I pluged in today and I just got shocked. My transfer speed was 12-16 MB/sec. It's even worse than my 2.0 pendrive. I started to look for solutions. I look at my mobo drivers. I have an AsRock Z75 Pro3 and Win 8.1 x64. I saw on the official site that there isn't any USB 3.0 driver for Win 8.1. I tried to install the Win 7 drive but I couldn't it wasn't compatible (as expected) then I looked at Intel drivers but nothing. I read that Win 8.1 uses some own driver but I'm not sure. I tried to delete the drivers in the DeviceManager but it didn't work. Basically I've tried everything and nothing worked. Any ideas what could I do to get better speeds. I tried both my mobo I/O slots and my case's front plugs. No difference. I have both SATA II and SATA III HDDs too but it's the same speed. Any help please?
  13. So if I go with the XPG SX900 I won't get disappointed right?
  14. Okay I'll pass the Kingston. Then let's say either ADATA or Samsung. Those have the biggest capacity. Could you describe this problem a bit more detailed please? Will it be fixed or something? Btw. will I have to do something with my mobo to make it recognize the SSD? I have an AsRock Z75 Pro 3. The BIOS is P1.40.
  15. Hey! I want to get a SATA 3 SSD in the 240-256GB region for about 120$s (33000 HUF). I was looking for some already but I couldn't decide between some of them so I'd need your assistance to help me find the best "bang for the buck". I'd love to get the most reliable with long lifespan. Here are the ones I found interesting: - Kingston 2.5" SSDNow V300 240GB SATA3 SV300S37A/240G this is the cheapest available for already ~103$ (27830 HUF) with 3 years warranty. But I'm not sure if the cheapest is the best -Kingston 2.5" HyperX Fury 240GB SHFS37A/240G available for 121$ (32730 HUF) with 3 years warranty. This looks faster than the V300 with 500MB/sec write/read instead of 450. -Intel 520 Series 240GB SSDSC2CW240A310 available for 119$ (32140 HUF) with 3 years warranty. Well it's Intel so if it's as good as their CPUs then it's probably good. -Crucial 2.5" M500 240GB CT240M500SSD1 for 120$ (32480 HUF) with 3 years warranty. It look OK too but it has only 250MB/sec writing speed although I'm not sure if it matters a lot. -SanDisk 2.5" Ultra II 240GB SATA3 SDSSDHII-240G-G25 available for 124$ (33445 HUF) with 3 years warranty. A local shop owner told me that it's really good. -Samsung 840 EVO 250GB SATA3 Basic MZ-7TE250BW for 124$ (33590 HUF) with 3 years of warranty. This looks like the best deal a lof of people like it but I'M not sure completely. The speed looks great though. 540/520 reading/writing speed. -A-Data 2.5" XPG SX900 256GB ASX900S3-256GM-C for 132$ (35840 HUF) with 3 years of warranty. This is the fastest one with 550/530 reading/writing speed. Plus according to the description it's ADATA's best SSD series plus I read something that it's flash memory chip thingy is the best. So please help me decide! I'd like to put my OS on it and some games like Battlefield 4, War Thunder. If it matters I have an i5 3570k with 8GB of RAM and R9 280. Win 8.1 Have a nice day!
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