Verne

$350 is pretty common price for these crappy racer chairs, though. Nothing affordable about this one compared to the competition. These "gaming chair makers" need to start making proper ergonomic chairs instead of these racing chair copies that are done to death.

After using a mechanical for years and then having to use a membrane, it mostly felt like I had to work so hard to push the buttons all the way down to actuate them.

1. Get back-up codes (Steam settings -> Account -> Manage Steam Guard Account Security) 2. Remove authenticator from use on the same page as above 3. Add authenticator with the new phone

ModMics are great but with your budget I would not consider them. Should be able to find HyperX Cloud headset with your budget if you want the easy option. Otherwise Superlux has some great cheap headphones (HD668b or 681 Evo for example) and then you can slap something like Zalman ZM-MIC1 on the cable.

When it comes to mouse DPI, maxing out is not in anyway "the best practice", unless the max DPI is on the low end (1600 for example). DPI is purely just hardware version of sensitivity, nothing else. There is no "benefit" to maxing it out, but most often to avoid any issues it is better to use lower settings, depending on the sensor and implementation. If you really want to dig into it you could just do some google research on your mouse and its sensor (appears to be Avago S9808) and see how it performs at different DPI levels.

In some sensors higher DPI can result in inaccuracies in the tracking. In some cheaper but high DPI mice the higher DPI settings are not "native" meaning there can be all kinds of negative effects to tracking. In most cases its safer to go as low as possible for DPI and adjust in-game sensitivity if needed. Also make sure you Windows mouse speed is set to the 6th (out of 11) notch and the Enhanced Pointer Precision is turned off to minimize any weirdness from Windows.

A few other suggestions to focus more on quality and performance over a long feature list: Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro M keyboard SteelSeries Rival 300 mouse HyperX Cloud headset

But a keyboard key is either on or off. Doesn't matter if its mechanical or membrane. Getting a keyboard with different kind of switch doesn't make it perform any better, only different.

Mouse can be a performance upgrade (better sensor) depending on what you are upgrading from. Keyboard is about comfort.

Use DS4Windows if you play games that don't have native support.

Not sure if you guys are being sarcastic but just in case someone doesn't know, 3360 and 3366 are basically the same sensors. 3366 is Logitech's version of the 3360 which is the "base" version any manufacturer can use. Some other companies have also did small tweaks to the 3360, like Roccat with their new Owl-Eye Sensor (3361). Any 336X mouse is a top mouse performance-wise.

If you are planning to Corsair why not consider the Corsair Scimitar Pro mouse? Its chunky like the Spatha but with much better specs.

M65 Pro has better sensor and is more "reliable" due to being wired. However it is pretty heavy. G602 has only wireless mode and its not as good as the newer G403 Wireless and G900. Great battery life, though. G602 is also quite heavy. MX Master is an office mouse, don't get it if you plan to use the mouse for gaming.

It totally depends on which Gear Head mouse you have. But it should be "better" than those cheap budget mice, but you could achieve the same with much less, or simply get something actually good. In the end its your money and you do with it what you will.

It would be like paying GTX1080 price for a GTX 1060 because the 1060 looks prettier. Of course it will move the mouse cursor but by today's standard the specs are simply bad compared to what else it out there. The only real reason to get Spatha over anything else is that you just want a mouse that looks like Spatha.

For $150 the Spatha is really poor value. Badly outdated sensor and if you plan to use it for gaming then Logitech wireless technology (in G403 Wireless and G900) is by far the best in the field. I know many people want heavier mice but from ergonomic and comfort stand-point you want the opposite since its an item you are supposed to move a lot. The Spatha tries to amaze with a long fancy feature list and looks rather actually performance.

Can't really go wrong with any of those three. It really comes down to if you truly need the num-pad and if you want RGB lighting. Also, most people usually rank Cooler Master and WASD Keyboards above Corsair when it comes to quality anyway, if you were considering K70 and quality.

Maybe check out Mionix Naos 7000 or Qpad 8k Optical. Similar shape/ergonomics with better sensors (both sport the PMW3310).

Compared to Vsync there should be pretty much no noticeable input lag, however depending on the game it could introduce occasional stutter or screen tearing, although you can try going refresh rate minus one (59, 143, 164) to fix it in some cases.

Yes and no. Dualshock 4 uses the DirectInput method that was the "standard" before Xinput (X360). These days most games only support Xinput so some kind of an emulator driver like DS4Windows is required for those games. Games like Final Fantasy XIV and the Witcher 3 have native support for Dualshock 4, though. Plus as mentioned above Steam just added support for DS4, but I'm not quite sure how it works with games.

G900 by far. Better wireless technology, lighter and is not a total gimmicky toy like the Rival 700. However, I would personally go with G403 Wireless over G900 since I don't need the extra features on the G900.

You do realise that the mechanical keyboard come back started because they were better for typing, not due to gaming applications? The tactical and audible feedback, or the lightness of the switch can help a lot with typing. Standard membrane boards require a lot more force to actuate and have to be pushed all the way down, and often don't offer any tactile bumps or click sounds to notify you of activation. Basically, for gaming mechanical keyboard won't make a huge difference while for typing (if you are proficient at fast typing and do it a lot) a mech makes a massive difference (once you find a switch type you like and get used to it).

Just use the motherboard audio by installing the Realtek drivers again. edit: if you are using the single 4-pole you might need a splitter that splits it to 1x Output and 1x Input, if one didn't already come with the headset.

Since you are using the motherboard audio ports that means your audio device is the Realtek HD Audio. Re-install Realtek's drivers. Windows/SteelSeries Engine would find your device only if you used an USB dongle.

The Masterkeys Pro M is actually not RGB, yet, only comes with white leds as of now. As far as I know the RGB model is coming at the end of year-ish... Only the Pro L and Pro S have RGB currently.