Jay123

I have recently moved into new rented housing and both me and my housemate want Ethernet connections to our bedrooms. The router is downstairs so we will be running a 20-30m cable upstairs to our rooms. What is the best way to do this without a significant loss in speed and without running 2 separate cables through the house?

So I currently have 3 displays plugged into my PC - my main and secondary monitors and then an old TV I use for films etc. I recently installed an RX580 GPU and a clean install of Windows. Now whenever my TV is not in use, as in it's turned off but there's no windows on it or mouse movement, the screen goes black after about 5 seconds. The LED remains green and as soon as I mouse over it turns back on. Also if I sit a YouTube video or something on it it will remain on. I'm thinking this is some sort of power saving software, most likely in Radeon settings, having switched from Nvidea but I can't see anything. The TV is plugged in via HDMI and my 2 monitors are HDMI and DVI but neither repeat this issue, any ideas?

I originally thought mobo too but with my mobo being less than 2 years old and my PSU being 6+ years, I decided to replace that first and it's solved my problem.

My PSU is a good bit older than the rest of my PC, wouldn't be surprised if that was it. I'll hijack my friends PSU see if that works.

After installing an RX580 and an extra 2 sticks of RAM my PC was turning off randomly, often as soon as I plugged in anything to the front USB. I even went back to my original config and the same was happening. I have a 750w PSU btw so it shouldn't be a power issue. Now suddenly my PC will run forever, as in the fan controller work, fans spin up and LEDS come on. But I can't get a display, either through GPU or mobo. This happened with both my old and new GOUsI've tried removing everything in my system one by one to the point that I currently just have my AIO CPU cooler and a couple fans plugged in. No, storage (SATA or M. 2), RAM (I did try with one stick that ik works), no PCI slots and even unplugged my front panel USB and audio. When I plug the DVI in my monitor does light up but only to say "No Signal". I'm all out of ideas. Dead motherboard? Any help much appreciated.! Update: I tried plugging in one of those mobo speakers that should beep when it boots and its not beeping ? Update 2: LEDs also unplugged and all fans/pumps are directly into mobo.

Yeah, dropped £60 on an ASUS PCI card with an external antenna (overkill ik) and moved everything onto 2.4GHz apart from my PC. Getting 15 ping in game and 0 loss. Well worth imo.

So I've just moved into a new house in which I can no longer have an Ethernet cable ran to my computer. However the router is only in the room directly below my PC so I didn't think there would be too much of an issue. A friend gave me what seems to be a decent quality USB adapter but my connection varies so much. Sometimes I'm getting 999+ ping in all games, sometimes it's fine (30-80). There's no pattern to it at all though it can be terrible or fine at peak times or at 4am, or when the house is full or when I'm in by myself. I thought my problem was initially solved by stopping my PC from searching for wireless devices once I had connected (netsh wlan set autoconfig enabled=no interface="Wi-Fi"). Turns out this only fixed a small part of the problem although it did help. Then today while doing a ping test in cmd I had lost 30/30 packets to www.google.com. Although I was still browsing and streaming fine. Just looking for any sort of advice tbh, I have ordered a new PCI wifi card anyway so we'll see if that does anything. Mostly I'm just confused by the apparent randomness of my issues. Thanks in advance for any ideas!

Well, never mind I've fixed it about 0.5 seconds after posting. Win + spacebar to display the different language options, for anyone interested, gg

So I've just bought a new ANSI keyboard, switching from my old ISO one. I've updated the keyboard layout to US QWERTY from UK but I'm still getting shift + 3 as £, rather than hash and my " and @ are the wrong way around etc. Any ideas on how to fix this, I'm thinking maybe delete and reinstall the keyboard drivers?

In short, you get what you pay for. Depends how much you want to spend honestly.

Corsair AF 120 and AF 140 Silent Editions sound perfect for you. I use the SP 120s and AF 120s in my current PC and the AFs are silent, however I do have them running slightly slower. 99% sure they do RGB versions, I only have the black ones though. Quite expensive but worth it IMO, very good performance as well as acoustics.

I use the regular Qck and love it, so much so that I'm on to my 3rd or 4th now. Not poor quality or anything, I just always end up spilling food on them and can't live with marks

I would just mount the 2.5" drives behind the motherboard tray, if you've got the space. If not just mount them to the side of the cage or something, with velcro of double sided tape I don't think it looks tacky, shows of the hardware more imo.

Seconding the Define Mini C. I have the Define Mini and I love it, so much so that I've modded it to accept a 240mm rad in the front and have a glass side panel rather than just buying a new case.

Is that better for the text?

I originally posted this to /r/buildapc but received no help. "So this is my 3rd build and the others went relatively fine. When I build this PC fully up it seemed fine, fans where spinning and HDD was going, but there was no display or power to any peripherals. All of the back I/O seemed to be dead. It's not a problem with the devices or cables as they all work on my other PC. I've tried it again outside the case with nothing plugged in excepts 24 and 4 pin power and the power switch with CPU and RAM installed. Still nothing. I've tried just one stick of RAM that I know works. I can't get any help from POST beep codes because there aren't any. (Makes me think the motherboard is the issue). I've tried it with a new CPU, same issue. I can't find any help from previous threads anywhere so I made my own. CPU is an Intel i5 4670k, motherboard is a MSI B85-M G43 with a 500W 80+ bronze PSU. Any ideas?" I have since returned the motherboard. The new one came and I tested it with only the essentials outside the case and it was working, well, it POSTed on screen (I/O was working) then shut down. I then built it up inside and it's broken again. I'm about to take it apart again and test outside, let's see what happens... ...OK it's working outside the case again. I'm going to check it piece by piece as I build it and I've took the I/O shield out.

OK guys, thanks for all your input. I'm going for a TK with browns.

I was going to get that but my GF won't let me as she can't touch type and says it's stupid to have the letters on the front and not the top, I kinda agree.

OK, thanks guys. Now for the switch, I mostly game but often have BIG essays to write. So I was thinking brown as a decent option for both gaming and typing? Or should I go red?

Damn, fast responses, thanks. Can I ask why the TK?

So I've been shopping round for a my 1st mechanical keyboard, I'm looking to spend around £70 and I'm thinking brown switches. I've found a few that meet my wants but can anyone give some input on which to go for? Corsair K65 - £68 http://www.ebuyer.com/523569-corsair-vengeance-k65-performance-ten-keyless-gaming-keyboard-uk-ch-9000040-uk Cheapest Looks nice Corsair K60 - £73 http://www.ebuyer.com/285858-corsair-vengeance-k60-performance-fps-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-ch-9000004-uk Full size Not a big fan of the silver Replaceable keys caps Nice media keys CM Trigger - £70 http://www.ebuyer.com/363963-cm-storm-trigger-mechanical-keyboard-sgk-6000-gkcc-uk Optional wrist rest Macros Looks brownish Red backlight (would turn off) Quickfire TK - £70 http://www.scan.co.uk/products/cooler-master-cm-storm-quickfire-tk-abs-grip-coated-mechanical-backlit-cherry-brown-gaming-keyboard- Nice white backlight

Yep, you'll learn what cyka means pretty fast.

But glossy

GTA III

Isn't a 8320 better for the price than that APU? Not sure though