PanzerIV

Same here I sold my 2080Ti sh*t blow edition for 900$ surprisingly few days ago and I need a 3080 asap but we always get F over here in Canada so I wonder if we'll be able to get it on Sept 17th and if so... if it's only gonna be the not-so-good Founder Edition that has bad resale value after, or if the much better third party cards will be available at the same time too and if so, for same price or more? Buying from the USA is a no go cause of the shipping delay, duty/custom extra fees, plus I think you don't even get a warranty since it's out of the country so a brand new 1000$ card with no warranty no thanks, and all this trouble just for the basic edition too?! Ah and by the way Master/Visa also add an extra 2.5% fee on top of the 30% currency conversion rate, so that's another thing to know. So far as of Sept 09th, nobody seem to have anything listed online in Canada other than CanadaComputers having a generic page about RTX3000, but I've called and the employee said they knew so far absolutely nothing in terme of price or ETA -_-

Goddamn garbage Korean monitors... I see everyone getting between 80-97Hz with bare minimum 70Hz yet my TWO monitors won't even do 65Hz even with a DVI Dual-Link and patched drivers on 2 different computers! In the CRU the numbers stays the same no matter if I choose "Standard/Reduced/Native" timings. Guess I'm out of luck. - Crossover 27Q - Shimian QH271

I obviously know that and I had nothing under default than the PLL OC which happened on my board to default at 1.2 cause the guy with the 8700K on another board than MSI said it was 0.9v so 1.0v was suppose to be "higher" and not too low. Also that's for the Uncore part of the CPU from what I've read and I had my CPU ring at stock 3.6Ghz which is less than the Auto mode that would up the ring multiplier to 4.0Ghz. The Vcore was still at 1.35v at 4.7Ghz but anyhow... It still doesn't explain why the stupid board won't reset itself after clearing the CMOS for over 3 hours and therefore put back the correct default values and voltage to boot again. Honestly I'd be so surprise if doing that would have killed in 1 sec a CPU idling at about 20C within one reboot by saving and exiting the bios so it's prolly just the board that bricked itself and can't reset I guess. Still dumb they charge more for this than my 4 years old Z87 MSI but they removed the dual bios so no way to recover the dead one... Time to RMA just cause it won't reset, great.

Hello guys, here's a very high challenge for you as I've got easily 15 years of tech support yet I'm stuck on a damn phone as my computer stopped posting completely right on Jan 1st with every stores being closed, lost a full rare day of gaming, worst new year ever. The issue starts at the link below, as initialy I was trying to overclock my 8600K that appears to be the worst sample ever but it's now the least of my problems. This morning I tryed the suggestion of somebody to use 1.00v for the "PLL OC" voltage instead of the default that is higher than most boards on my MSI, which is 1.20v then I did save & exit and right there the computer wouldn't boot anymore at all, black screen, all fans spinning but the video cars that tries but barely move at all, no light on keyboard and the white led on the mono is stuck at "CPU Undetected or Fail". Usually it would had been super easy and I would have must cleared the damn CMOS but I did and nothing change. WTF how trying to boot once with 0.20v less on the PLL could possibly fry instantly my 335$ CPU?! It just makes no sense, never seen such bs since my first computer 18 years ago (-_-) I'm gonna go buy a spare CPU and board tomorrow to see by swapping hardware what will work and perhaps RMA my board already after just 5 days, to MSI and lose money over shipping, great stuff like my car battery that need to be boosted tomorrow morning so I can get to the store and to work after. www.overclock.net/t/1644977/help-i5-8600k-wont-stabilize-over-4-6ghz#post_26526912

Piece of sh*t new drivers. Why can't AMD in over 5 months be able to make a driver capable of simply reading FLASH videos on Internet!? I don't know if it's because I have a crossfire of R9 280X but I have all the latest updates (Windows 8.1, Intel cpu/chipset, etc) but no matter if I use Chrome or Firefox with a manualy updated Flash Player I still get the sound but a black screen on youtube. I disabled the "Hardware Acceleration" which in the first place I shouldn't have to do, then some videos started working but most of them still don't, which is extremly frustrating! I don't know what else to try other than reverting back to 14.6 drivers. By the way I did use the driver cleaner program.

Me too that's prolly what is stopping me from buying one now. Stupid company that isn't able to make arrangement with big stores like NCIX in order to have stocks everywhere. 50$USD is already a lot, no way I am gonna pay 12$USD of shipping for something so small and lightweight that prolly cost half of this to ship, then pay on top of that custom fees because they won't lower the value... it's gonna end up around 75$CAD for a tiny plastic microphone that is still made in china by the way so total rip off imo.