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PortableOpossum

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  • Posts

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About PortableOpossum

  • Birthday Jun 25, 1991

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    PluggWolf
  • Origin
    PortableOpossum
  • PlayStation Network
    SuterusuUsukami
  • Xbox Live
    DarkSwordswoman
  • Twitter
    @PortableWolf

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    New York

System

  • CPU
    AMD FX-8350
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX Professional
  • RAM
    2x 8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 1866 Mhz
  • GPU
    MSI Reference R9 290
  • Case
    NZXT Phantom 410
  • Storage
    1TB WD Black & 250GB Samsung 840 EVO
  • PSU
    Corsair AX760
  • Cooling
    Antec KUHLER H2O 920
  • Keyboard
    Max Keyboard Blackbird
  • Mouse
    Razer Naga Hex
  • Sound
    HyperX Cloud Headset

PortableOpossum's Achievements

  1. Just barely passed. Time for some OCing. Rig name: AMDemolitionCpu: AMD FX-8350Gpu: MSI R9-290 w/ Corsair H80i CoolerRam: 16GB 1866Mhz. DDR3Score:
  2. Corsair makes a bracket for it as well. I'm going with there's over the NZXT one because of the better coverage of the VRM and VRAM. My only concern is if the pre-filled units will reach to the front or top of my case. I feel as though they might be too short. So I was mainly looking for input from people who've tried the set up or something similar so I know what a good pre-filled unit would be to use. I would just use the one I have already but it only fits my [AMD's] CPU and wouldn't fit the GPU bracket [intel mounting holes] and I can't move it in the case because of the size of the rad.
  3. The short story is that I'm looking to get some water cooling in my system for my GPU. The long story is I'm too broke to get a really nice full custom liquid system, so I'm thinking about using Corsair's new HG10 A1 cooling bracket and a new, probably Corsair so I know it 100% works with the bracket, pre-filled liquid cooling block. If I can get something like that working then I will only be spending about what a decent water block for just my GPU will cost me. My main concern and what I want to discuss is does anyone have a Corsair pre-filled CPU cooler, and do you think it would reach from a GPU to the front or top of a standard mid-tower case? I already have a single 120mm rad connected to my CPU and mounted on the rear of my case so I can't really use the rear fan mount for the GPU, and the cooler I have won't work with the GPU bracket because it uses AMD only mounting hardware since it's an AMD branded pre-filled block that comes with their CPU's. OR does anyone maybe have the bracket and know of another good cooler to recommend that would reach all the way to my GPU from the top or front of a mid sized case. For reference. As far as I know the cooler bracket uses Intel mounting hardware on the cooling block. The GPU will be mounted in the top slot of my motherboard so it is as close to the top of the case as it's going to get. This is a link to the bracket. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181085 And this is potentially the cooler I am looking to get. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181085
  4. That's not bad, I can't believe I haven't done that yet. I'm a space cake >_<. I think I might be able to find a PCI NIC or something around to try. I mean, if it is the NICs on the board then at least that should give me some sort of idea. I have to see what I can dig up tonight. I don't have many parts laying around to swap, but I might have one of those. Or at least a USB wireless card or something.
  5. I may just mark this as solved and delete the text or something so I can post it in the correct subforum..
  6. Well I tried re-installing the OS once, I also tried re-installing, the browsers themselves and my drivers, and any software that can foreseeably effect my NIC. That's why at this point I'm left to assume something hardware because I can't see anything else with software I can change. It's just stressing me out at this point.
  7. Wow. I'm blind. I completely missed that heading. I scrolled up and down the front page like 3 times. >_< I have only noticed it in the browsers. But the BIOS thing says to me the mobo is messed up regardless of the freezing issue. I just figured I would post both to see what I could do.
  8. It's rare that I post on a forum like this seeking help but I am just at a loss, so I turn to you, fellow Linus Tech Tips members. Recently, about 5 months ago, I finally got together my gaming desktop. [Which I will post the parts of for reference after the explanation.] After having it together for about a week or so, I began to notice random freezing while I was browsing the internet using Google Chrome. This immediately sent up red flags as I had only just built the machine and everything at that point was just running off of an SSD with no bottlenecks that I could see happening anywhere. At first I assumed it might be because of the NIC software that came with the mobo, so I got rid of that. Then I assumed it was because of the NIC drivers, so I re-installed them fresh, right from Broadcom, and not from my mobo manufacturer this time. Finally given it was happening only, as far as I could see, in Google Chrome I got rid of every shred of chrome from my PC by uninstalling and then deleting all files and folders associated with it. Then I tried re-installing it, and began getting the same freezing. After that I tired using Firefox and while it seemed to happen less often with Chrome and to a lesser extent, with a the freezing lasting for a shorter time, it was still happening. Since the installation was still pretty fresh and I didn't have much on it, I re-installed Windows. After getting things set up just enough to the point that I needed them to be. I began to browse again and...the same issue began popping up. In both Firefox and Chrome. It's causing me confusion because none of my other internet based applications such as playing games or being on instant message and voice chat programs seem to cause the freeze up to happen when just they are running and the internet browsers aren't open. Another issue I'm having is shortly after the re-install and dealing with this first problem, I started up my PC one day to find a BIOS message telling me that my default settings were loaded. All of my overclock settings in BIOS we're just reset to default. Though, strangely enough, all of my saved profiles were still there. So I just had to load my favorite up, not a huge deal. The problem is that this keeps happening, and it's growing more frequent every day. The time isn't being reset so I'm not drawn to think it's the CMOS battery. The CMOS jumper is in the correct position and since it only happens some of the time I don't think it's that. I'm not sure what could be causing this and I'm not sure if it's related. But my first thought was possible mobo issues given the BIOS issues popping up after the freezing. I've been putting up with the freezing whilst trying to find solutions in various places but now with the BIOS issue I'm just at the end of my patience. So TL:DR; Freezing issues when browsing. Have tried: Uninstalling browsers, drivers, and NIC software. Re-installing Windows. Different Network connections. Different cables. Updating BIOS. My current system configuration is: AMD FX-8350 ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX Professional Motherboard Corsair Vengeance Pro 1866 Mhz. [2x 8GB Dual Channel Kit] MSI Reference R9 290 Corsair AX760 Power Supply Samsung 840 Evo SSD And finally a WD Black HDD And I have Win 7 x64 Ultimate running on it. Before it comes up. I got the mobo second hand off of a friend who recently upgraded his build. So RMAing it is not an option. And to make it even shittier, I can't find a new one through any of my normal PC part channels which sort of sucks. Any help that anyone can provide would be very much appreciated. I'm sorry if I maybe put this in the wrong area of the forums and if I did could someone help me out with where to put it?
  9. I don't think I have a shot with how popular these contests are. But, as they say, you must be in it to win it.
  10. Something to consider when looking for a hard drive for the PS4 is also the physical size of the drive. You can't use a drive larger than 9.5 mm thick. So that limits you. Also since price is a factor, your best bet is a 1TB drive. Anything with a larger capacity is very likely going to be thicker. Since you're changing it out anyway, you might as well spend the extra few bucks on getting a 1TB SSHD instead of a 1TB HDD. Your load times will be a bit better, you're not spending much more, and the capacity is the same so at that point it's purely if you want the extra speed while you are at it. Here is a nice Seagate SSHD for $100. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178340 If you don't want to spend the extra cash. For $70 you can snag a WD Blue 5400RPM that will fit the bill as well. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236496
  11. Where do you live that you still have Arcades? The best I have here is Dave & Busters. And while they are fun. They don't have anywhere near the selection of decent games a dedicated arcade would.
  12. Check your processor. Take it out and look at the pins in the mobo socket. Since it's Intel they should be the little foils and not real pins. Make sure they are all intact.
  13. Actually they haven't had the start menu in since the beginning. The start menu was introduced in the, oh so hated, Windows 95. And if you can believe it, just like with taking it away, people had mixed reactions to it being introduced. Windows 95 was actually the first version of Windows to look like what we know today. A start menu and a task bar being some notable features. Honestly their reasons for getting rid of it made sense. A lot of users tend to just put links to programs they use a lot on their desktop or pinned to the taskbar. I can't remember that last time I went digging in the start menu to find something. Having it be large tiles for apps you maybe don't use as much or maybe you just want out of the way made sense. You can get to things pretty easy. And if you need to look at all your applications for some reason you can and they're displayed in organized lists on the screen. It's not difficult to use or even navigate. Hell you can even just press the Windows Key, or the start menu button in Win 8.1, and just type the name of the program you need. It's way faster than mousing through the menu actually. It's just different and as time has shown again and again, people don't like what is different. What breaks the norm.
  14. I have noticed the Tartarus. I chose to exclude it from my purchasing decision because it pretty much is the Nostromo but with a different thumb pad. I've used one before and I just couldn't see it as much of an upgrade at all. My main focus is upgrading to something mechanical because having used some of my friends mechanical keyboards, I really wanted one. I primarily game on my PC, I have a laptop for work, and the other things I do on my PC don't require much typing. [Photo editing, drawing, etc.] So I really can't justify ~$100 on something with typing being the only focus in mind. Thanks for the input. I have ended up going with a Max Keyboard Blackbird. I felt like I could make do with my Nostromo for now. It's really not showing any signs of stopping it's performance and I can use a keyboard for both gaming and typing. The Orbweaver is next on my peripheral list though. It just seemed crazy right now for me to spend $130 on the Orbweaver, when I was able to get: Max Keyboard Blackbird w/ Cherry MX Blue switches, Red LED lighting, and memory foam wrist rest. Set of 9 Translucent replacement keycaps for Esc, WASD, and Arrow keys. Set of 6 Dice replacement keycaps for number or F keys. Keycap Puller. All for less than the cost of an Orbweaver not including shipping. [Orbweaver cost $129.99 from Razer.] My total for my purchase was $128.99 with shipping. [Labor Day sale. Included all extra keycaps, Max Keyboard cable tie, keycap puller for free and 20% off any keyboard they sell.]
  15. Sorry for the late reply. http://www.razerzone.com/store/razer-orbweaver-2012 That was where they are selling it, but since last night it has changed to a "Notify Me" button. It was $100 USD. US Newegg still appears to have the old one up. All the pictures and the description indicate it's the older model. They also only want $100. But I'm not sure if they indeed are still getting rid of stock on the older model. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826153116 There's a link to Newegg.
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