RenaKry

For future reference, the issue was the SSD. I swapped in another NVMe SSD of a different brand, a TeamGroup MP33, and the laptop can now successfully reboot without a “No Bootable Device” error. The Silicon Power SSD is in a different computer now and it is taking it well. I am seeing posts of Silicon Power SSDs giving other users a similar issue, so buyer beware that Silicon Power SSDs might be somewhat incompatible with your PC.

It seems that you haven't tried putting the same capacity sticks into the same channel, with 16GB in A and 8GB in B for example.

Better late then never. But yes here is a Hardstyle Fan

Now listening to this one
 
 

I am sure they mean the motherboard is indicating an error with the CPU. The OP can reseat the CPU and also inspect for missing or bent pins. Don't worry about reapplying new thermal paste for now until everything works. Also, I should mention that the 500 series chipsets do not support Zen 1 CPUs.

You may flip the switch on the back of the power supply to cut power to the system reasonably safely. Then you can go in and make sure that the power connector didn't detach from the motherboard and isn't wired incorrectly.

You may flip the switch on the back of the power supply to cut power to the system reasonably safely. Then you can go in and make sure that the power connector didn't detach from the motherboard and isn't wired incorrectly.

Here is the thread you are quoting. Despite this, all of my American Android phones have the volume warning.

I didn't dig too deeply, and this was on the first page of google when I looked up "10400f max tdp".

I am not optimistic. The included heatsink is a very thin chunk of aluminum, and the 10400F is already pushing 65w. You can however simply use the included heatsink until you can afford an aftermarket heatsink. According to one source, the 10400F can top out at 134w. Through personal testing, an ancient Hyper 212 Evo can cool up to 155w continuously before thermally throttling, so any cheap aftermarket 120mm tower cooler should suffice.
 
Disclaimer: I have never tested an Intel cooler. I don't know what the cooling capacity of it is, but it should be at least 65w, but less than 95w.

You can change your power settings (Right click Windows button) to Balanced as opposed to High Performance to allow the CPU to throttle on idle.

Except they aren't. Grey-market keys are OEM keys that are not allowed to be resold to general consumers, so buying/selling one is technically software piracy. Legitimate in this case means by the book, no piracy whatsoever, exactly how Microsoft intended.
I agree with you there, that is the reason most people who buy one of those keys or finds another way to break the watermark sleep easy at night, because if Microsoft actually cared about it, they would figure out a way to lock it down like they did with Windows 7 and prior.

I'm unaware of a power supply, whose job is solely to supply various voltages to different components within the computer, that can have a negative impact on system performance, barring low quality PSUs with high ripple or out-of-spec voltages, which can cause system instability. Some context as to how you came to ask this question would be much appreciated.

i wonder if there are any hardstyle fans here

What operating system are you running and what chipset is the motherboard? Windows 7 is very old and doesn't have drivers for newer chipsets and their corresponding drive controllers, which can cause an error screen like yours when booting.
 
Edit: If it is Windows 7 and you are using hardware newer than 2009, try a newer operating system, like an Ubuntu Live CD. (they call it a Live CD but you can actually boot it from a USB using Rufus.)

Send faxes... there are still too many of these around

Prime95 with the Small FFTs option,
Blend distributes the load across other components,but Small FFTs utilizes only the CPU.

make sure to test both avx and non avx p95, small ffts for cpu and large ffts for ram. blend is a little inconsistent tbh

OCCT
It will kill weak systems.
This is not hyperbole.
You have been warned.

Thanks for the reply. My desktops are all equipped with a motherboard speaker and they all beep at POST. I can also make the speaker beep using software that uses the motherboard speaker, but it is very rare for it to beep on its own when I’m in Windows doing Windows things.
 
I was thinking that it had something to do with the graphics card, since the chime only occurs while gaming. Good to know it’s just the graphic driver telling me that Anti-lag is working. 
 
The reason why it beeps through the motherboard and not through the sound card is because I use a driver that redirects system beeps to the motherboard speaker called BeepXP64 so I can use Bleeper Music Maker to play beep songs through the motherboard. It’s as stupid as it sounds, but if you want to disable system beeps, one way to do it is to install said driver and unplug the motherboard speaker. No more beeps!

Apaches perform pretty well on rads and have much better static pressure but that doesn't seem to be the use case here.
You can see an example here with the Hyperborea clone on a H80: https://www.anandtech.com/show/6391/120mm-radiator-fan-roundup-part-2-fan-harder/7

Look at the Arctic P12's and F12's.

Sounds like a plan!

The S12Bs can do it all. No need for any other fans except maybe the P12s for radiators and even then it's not really needed.

Noctua NF-S12B Redux. Very quiet because Noctua, pretty good airflow and only $13 a fan as recommended above. Get the 1200RPM versions since the 700RPM ones move VERY little air. (source - I have both)

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608061
 
or
 
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAADY4AW7927