RenaKry

For future reference, the issue was the SSD. I swapped in another NVMe SSD of a different brand, a TeamGroup MP33, and the laptop can now successfully reboot without a “No Bootable Device” error. The Silicon Power SSD is in a different computer now and it is taking it well. I am seeing posts of Silicon Power SSDs giving other users a similar issue, so buyer beware that Silicon Power SSDs might be somewhat incompatible with your PC.

I have a laptop with an SSD that drops out after a restart, requiring me to power cycle in order to continue. I was wondering if there is a way to automate this process by having Windows always power cycle the computer after restarting, like a group or security policy that I can change. I am running Windows 11 Enterprise on a 1TB Silicon Power A60 in an Acer E5-576G. I am aware that NVMe SSDs are not officially supported on this laptop by Acer, but other than the aforementioned problem with the SSD dropping out upon restarting, Windows runs fine. It can also wake up from sleep and come out of hibernation just fine.

no, but that really depends on how close to the tv you plan on sitting

I do not dislike the new Macbook keyboards. I think it is a huge improvement over the butterfly keyboards they've used in the past. Apparently, the key travel on the current keyboards is 1mm. I would also like to add that a computer losing its ability to hibernate or sleep is, in my experience, almost always due to driver issues. It could also be incorrect BIOS settings, you should make sure S4 (hibernate) is enabled. As for drivers, another forum post recommended Snappy Driver Installer for installing and updating every conceivable driver available for your Windows computer.

TDP basically means by design, the CPU can put out a maximum of 130 watts of heat under full load with all of its limiters enabled. Overclocking will always exceed the TDP so you can expect it to put out even more heat than it was designed to, which necessitates a bigger cooler. Also, I agree that the CPU and motherboard combo is a very good value at $40CAD.

It seems that you haven't tried putting the same capacity sticks into the same channel, with 16GB in A and 8GB in B for example.

I used to run a 21:9 2560x1080 custom resolution on my big ass 16:9 1440p monitor to artificially increase my horizontal FOV.

If you are not using Bitlocker, which is a full drive encryption feature in Windows 10 Pro, you do not need to worry about the message your BIOS tells you about the recovery key.

As far as I know, any Intel wireless module will work with anything that has PCIe (plus USB for Bluetooth) and drivers for it. For example, I can buy an Intel AX200 right now and stick it in my Ryzen computer and I'll have Wi-Fi 6, just like that. Disclaimer: I don't have an AX200 but an 8260, which is Intel's last generation 802.11ac wireless module.

I am sure they mean the motherboard is indicating an error with the CPU. The OP can reseat the CPU and also inspect for missing or bent pins. Don't worry about reapplying new thermal paste for now until everything works. Also, I should mention that the 500 series chipsets do not support Zen 1 CPUs.

You may flip the switch on the back of the power supply to cut power to the system reasonably safely. Then you can go in and make sure that the power connector didn't detach from the motherboard and isn't wired incorrectly.

It is really all about priorities. Having the radiator in the front blowing freshly heated air into the case lends itself to higher GPU temperatures. The opposite would be true where the CPU would run a bit warmer if the radiator was exhausting hot air from inside the case that was cooked by the GPU, but to a lesser extent (based on my intuition anyways). If I can choose, I would go with radiator exhausting. If you can only have it at the front, it really isn't that big a deal, otherwise people wouldn't do it so often.

(The warning should only appear if your device is using an European ROM) Here is the thread you are quoting. Despite this, all of my American Android phones have the volume warning.

It is required by the EU for audio players (also applies to Android in the US) to limit volume to 85dB with a hard limit of 100dB. Without rooting, I am unaware of a universal method of disabling this warning. By the way, anything you plug into the headphone jack on an Android phone will trigger this warning, as it is obviously intended to be used with headphones.

Please post another screenshot of your MSI Afterburner window.