Neggy-Z

Have you tried disabling hardware acceleration in your browser?

What would be the point? You're just adding yet another layer of copper to transfer heat through. If you're going to that kind of extreme you may as well lap the ihs flat, would be easier and less risky.

I've had this issue with every driver since 22.7.1 on my 6900xt, sadly newer games such as Diablo 4 require a more up to date driver. The only thing that fixes it for me is a driver restart using Win+Ctrl+Shift+B.

That's just wrong, it's worked fine for me on every AMD card i've owned dating back to at least the HD5000 series cards. Looks like a detection issue to me, it's not detecting your current drivers and displaying 'RX 3750 XT'? in the monitoring graph. I would DDU the current drivers, uninstall AB whilemaking sure to remove the user profile settings, it should prompt for this while uninstalling, then start with fresh drivers and reinstall AB.

I found what you're looking for on Amazon AU via UK https://www.amazon.com.au/EK-RES-X3-Internal-Tube-40mm/dp/B00IYNJPOW A little expensive for what it is but it is available.

Is your graphics card running a UEFI bios? You can check via GPU-Z

Have you tried software controls for the fan? There's a great piece of software here on the forums called FanControl

Another program you could try is openrgb https://openrgb.org/

You're better off just disabling/disconnecting your network/internet so windows doesn't auto download basic drivers

There's also OpenRGB https://openrgb.org/

I would start with carefully removing all the thermal pads, apply fresh paste and see how the contact turns out, if it's fine then your problem is likely due to some of the thermal pads being too thick.

If you can't get all the fluid out due to a rad or block not draining completely i would just flush the system a few times with distilled water, after that just add your coolant, being diluted with a bit of distilled water is better then the superflush.

You just spent $1000+ on a new gpu, surely you can afford the ~$150 for a decent psu?

What case? Can you post a picture of the loop? Does having the side panel off help at all? Sounds like you have very bad or very little air flow.

You kind of need to flip your cpu block so the intake is at the bottom so you can follow the flow from bottom to top. Out of the pump/distro to the gpu then back to the distro, out to the cpu then back to the distro, then finally out to the res and back to the distro. You'll probably need a few offset fittings and some 90 degree angle and extensions if you want clean straight runs. If you don't want to run every component back to the distro then it's kind of pointless having it as that's the whole idea of having one in the first place.

You'll need more then just a tissue for cleaning if there is any solid buildup, I've always used a piece of scotch brite, the rough side of a cleaning sponge is also good, as this isn't as harsh as using sandpaper but still gets the surface smooth. You shouldn't notice any performance loss from continued use, providing both surfaces are cleaned and prepared properly.

Is your ambient temp like 0c or something? All your temps seem really low

I've never had EK coolants stain my clear plexi or acrylic parts, mind you i've never used yellow or red and they seem to be the worst for staining, mostly used blue and purple both transparent and pastel variants. I've had staining/buildup on nickel blocks where there is minimal flow, next to orings or where the nickel is up against acrylic. The only time i've had major staining was in a second system using some Thermaltake transparent green coolant, that stuff is horrible and stained pretty much every surface it touched. Maybe checkout Bykski for a 4070 ti block, they currently have blocks for 5 different 4070 ti's https://www.bykski.com/page86?product_category=210&brd=1

One thing to keep in mind with a custom loop is that you have a lot more coolant in the system compared to an aio, this means the system will take a lot longer to hit a steady state. Your coolant temp should only be a few degrees above ambient while the system is idle, once under load it could take up to 30mins, or even more, to hit steady state again. I would set a static pump rpm and leave it at that, for a single cpu loop flow rate isn't going to matter all that much, find a speed you're happy with where noise isn't annoying.

EK sell a separate fan mounting bracket. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-loop-uni-pump-reservoir-bracket-120mm

I would have 3 fans at the bottom as intake and have the rads on the top and side as exhaust, this way you avoid having all the warm air running through the case and over the other components. As long as all 3 fans are mounted up against the case this shouldn't be an issue, as long as the rad is flat and doesn't have a notch/bump on the end tank. Example, if you're exhausting up top with the 240mm aio you'll want the fans in a pull setup between the case and rad. Though I'm not sure why you would want to do this. You want to try and maintain a somewhat neutral or positive air pressure in the case, should be fairly easy with 3 bottom fans that have a less restricted airflow vs the 5 fans that have to more air through rads.

If your power supply is modular make sure the cables on it's side are plugged in properly. Have you got access to another power supply you can test with?

I've run into this issue with pretty much every older graphics card, either amd or nvidia, that doesn't support UEFI while using display port cable. To fix this try enabling CSM in the bios, that's always worked for me in the past.

9th gen covers such a wide range of cpus it's impossible to answer. You would get a much better answer asking about a specific cpu sku.

Yes. Using even slightly thicker pads will almost always cause mounting pressure issues, thermal pads can only compress so far. Sure, go for it, enjoy your cracked piece of silicon or warped pcb.