runit3

You also have to consider finding a board for the 2500k. Unless you have one lying around you're at the mercy of Ebay/Craigslist as well, and a good condition one probably isn't going to come cheap.

lulz. ^ that
Should've checked boost before I got all excited...it's been a long day of non-excitement....and it continues

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=lenovo+s405+screen+replacement&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Alenovo+s405+screen+replacement - for replacement screens or do a search on ebay for lenovo s405 screen relacement

Best option would be to snipe a gutted laptop MOBO off ebay that still functions and supports a GPU. If you're trying to build a laptop out of a a consumer ITX board it's going to turn into a lap-briefcase. I briefly entertained the idea a while back, but it just isn't feasible on consumer grade parts -sans scavenged laptop parts.
 
If you really want to take the plunge here are some sub $100 ITX options:
Intel
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=itx+H97&N=4027&isNodeId=1
AMD
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007625&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&ActiveSearchResult=True&SrchInDesc=ITX&Page=1&PageSize=30
 
 
 

1.35v is only the beginning of "safe voltage" range for a 6700k, the architecture & way the CPU handles voltages compared to Haswell is completely different.  
 
There's no longer any Cache voltage, the Cache gets it's voltage from VCORE now, thus higher VCORE is needed at times.  ASUS recommends a max 1.4v if stress testing, 1.42v if stress testing with good watercooling, and 1.45v if good cooling + no stress testing. 
Skylake runs MUCH cooler at these "high" voltages compared to Haswell as well.
 
I wouldn't recommend running much past 1.42v without a GOOD cooler & a delid however, temps start to really get toasty past ~1.4v.

Why would you take the time to RMA most of your components when you have no idea why it's happening? How did the RMA's even get approved if you have no evidence of a product failure (physical or otherwise)?
 
Also, what are the actual symptoms? "stuttering like crazy" is an abstract way of stating a potential problem with any component. You need to be way more specific. Does the OS hang when doing certain tasks? Can you reproduce the problem consistently? How do you reproduce it?
 
If I had to place a bet on what is wrong with the system my first guess would be HDD/SSD misconfiguration, failure, or OS corruption based on "stuttering like crazy" symptoms. Of course that assumes your CPU isn't downclocking due to thermal throttling, improper C-states, voltage droop, etc. etc.
 
Do some due-diligence in trying to reproduce the problem and get some metrics on the system status when it is happening (clock speed, temps, active software, etc.). No one is going to take the time to try and help if you can't take the time to provide details of the problem.

Price to Performance R9-390/X. This is coming from someone who had 970's in SLI and moved to a single 290X 8GB (basically a 390X). Now I have no issues with HD texture packs at 1440, rarely sub 60fps.

Everyone Netflix and chill,  In a few business days I will have an Asus 970 Pro Gaming/Aura and an AMD FX9590.... So I'll keep you posted on whether or not I've set my house on fire or if everything has carried on and stayed calm. 

The guy who "loves it" has 1 post. This one. How convenient. And the guy who made the "program" has 3 posts. All in this thread. LOL

You don't need an aftermarket cooler with the Xeon, the insane amount of fans, or the Z97 board (unless you plan on SLI down the road). R9-390 or 390X would be a better GPU choice unless you absolutely need CUDA as opposed to OpenCL.
 
If you've never worked on a 27" 1080p monitor I'd highly suggest you check them out before you buy, I can't stand my wife's. I couldn't find any reviews for that particular model on TFT Central, but since you're solely operating in the Adobe RGB world I'm fairly confident in saying there are some better panels out there in that price range (or a bit of an increase from getting rid of all the fans )  There were some screaming deals on the PB278Q, not sure if they're still around, but I swear by this thing.

the A10-7850/7870K are R7 250 DDR3 desktop GPUs
 
they both have 512 shader cores
 
2400MHz is suggested RAM for the iGPU to run at it best
 
Dual graphics with the A10 and the R7 250 will only bump your fps from 30+ to 50+
 
if you really on a budget
 
the A10 is alright
 
but if you have more budget
 
grab the Athlon 860K and a R7 265 at least
 
or grab the R9 380/X as the highest GPU to combo the Athlon 860K

just as racist has Huntsville,AL sarcasm. its fine been raining a lot tho.

You also have to consider finding a board for the 2500k. Unless you have one lying around you're at the mercy of Ebay/Craigslist as well, and a good condition one probably isn't going to come cheap.

Get to the activation screen, it should ask for a CD key or you should be able to choose to activate over the phone. Choose the over the phone method. Call the number on the screen, tell the numbers displayed to the robot, robot will tell you input values, put them in, job done.

I take it the copy is the same one you were using with your previous motherboard and CPU?
OEM copies of windows are only meant for use on one computer and that usually means one motherboard and is not supposed to be transferable to a new computer.
People can usually just call MS's automated activation number and get the license transferred anyway.
Sometimes people have gotten a live operator who doesn't want to transfer said license as a new CPU and motherboard can be considered a new computer and thus not be covered in the OEM license.
This is often circumvented just by hanging up and calling again and talking to a different operator.

I've only gotten the live operator once. I think MSFT finally figured out it was cheaper to let the robo-call do it, which is what I've gotten the last 6 times I've done this.

If it still works, it still works. Don't ever give your core voltage 2.0 or you'll likely instakill it. Somewhat surprised you didn't kill it from what you've already done.

linked is an odd term to use. If you mean linked as dual channel operation with matching speeds, that would be the correct choice. You can run them separately in single channel operation with miss-matched latency, but the difference between tRCD 9/11 is so small there's no reason not to run them in dual channel. The benefits of dual channel operation outweigh the very small increase in latency for one primary timing. http://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/1349-ram-how-dual-channel-works-vs-single-channel/Page-3

Highly not recommended by who? You? The only people who do not recommend memory overclocking are the people that do not know how to overclock memory. 
 
Solid advice here. You do not want to have VCCIO/VCCSA running beyond 1.25v for 24/7. I personally do not recommend running over 1.15v, as you can technically make it run with less voltage by slightly loosening certain tertiary timings, with little impact on overall bandwidth. 
 
You may want to look into turning MRC Fast Boot off. I dislike the way it handles previously trained timings. I would do that first, then follow the advice given by Minsekt above. 

What BIOS version are you running? Some early revision BIOS's had limited/poorly implemented XMP support (this goes for nearly all the manufacturers). I'd only run the BIOS update if you see more recent versions that specifically site memory/XMP support updates.
 
This should be as simple as hitting the XMP drop-down menu and choosing your speed divider.

What BIOS version are you running? Some early revision BIOS's had limited/poorly implemented XMP support (this goes for nearly all the manufacturers). I'd only run the BIOS update if you see more recent versions that specifically site memory/XMP support updates.
 
This should be as simple as hitting the XMP drop-down menu and choosing your speed divider.

Sorry, the OP is a bit unclear, but are you getting the BSOD while trying to install a new OS version of 64 bit Win 10? or you're getting the BSOD from a previous, already existing OS installation from media that was installed on another machine?
 
If you're trying to do a fresh install re-create your installation media and completely format -delete all existing partitions, then format your drive.

Is the DRAM voltage being adjusted to match the XMP specs? If it has try notching up the RAM voltage by .01-.02v and keying manually.

I've delidded over 100 6700Ks, and I've never seen anything less than a 10C drop across the cores (closer to 15C when pushing the voltage.)
 
If you're going to delid, a liquid metal like CLU is a must and you need to clean as much of Intel's sealant off as you can to narrow the gap between the die and the IHS.

Ok, so a while back Luke said he'd rather I criticize them instead of other LTT members. I'll take that to heart here.
 
This video is terrible. This is probably worse than that one EK review without any comparisons to other coolers. My Skylake thread is trashing this video. Didn't clean off paste properly? Didn't use CLU? Assumed delidding any chip will net similar gains regardless of generation? Problem due to paste only starting with Haswell? What? Don't touch the back of the chip with your skin if possible! What about the vice method? What about SI delid + reseal service? What about bare die? Which chips might benefit from delid, which would not? Were you able to find some information on the failure rates of delidding, if not by method, just in general?
 
How does a professional WITH A TEAM screw this up, allowing random people on forums to take his place? Is your entire team centered around maximizing video quality and editing and NOBODY is around to do any research?
 
One guy got his CPU actually replaced via Intel Tuning Plan after delid.
 
I'm going to blow a fuse. What are you people doing, what are you people doing, you guys are supposed to be the professionals, I'm supposed to be the random pleb that is learning all he needs to know and then some from tech Youtubers...
 
Yeah, I understand that from the Youtuber's point of view, I'm some guy popping up and exploding in the comments over details, but that's what makes information good. Information about delidding is dime a dozen, I can just Google it. It's the details. It needs finesse. Are you guys about quality or do you just want to crank out as many videos as you can in good video quality with dank humor so a million kids will watch you?