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Posts posted by runit3
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1 minute ago, Father Dougal said:
I used the feature in AI3. I completely forgot about that, its been a long week. I'll have to wait till its done updating. Should be done by Sunday at this rate.
"feature" is a generous word. I'd say pull the plug, but I've had to repair a corrupted BIOS ROM before, and it was less fun than waiting an inordinate amount of time.
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3 minutes ago, Father Dougal said:
I needed it to update the BIOS. Can't use the BIOS itself for anything at present. Its only just half way through and its been well over an hour now. Something is not right here.
How did you update it? USB BIOS Flashback is the easiest way. Download the .cap, put in root of FAT32 formatted USB, plug into the designated port on the I/O and hold down the flashback button until it starts flashing, when it's done flashing it's done.
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3 minutes ago, Father Dougal said:
What I meant was, if I installed a program, say AI Suite 3, the system upon restart would take forever to boot. I don't know its corrupted but you can't actually do anything in it. It just hangs, mouse doesn't move, none of the temp, voltage or fan speed readouts move or adjust like they should do.
AI Suite 3 is cancer. Ruined all my fan profiles on my X99-Deluxe, painfully slow, wrote over BIOS settings when launched, etc. etc. You sited the only example I can think of for software hosing your BIOS settings unless you really try in Intel XTU.
Uninstall AIS3, flash the BIOS if things aren't better, don't install it again.
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https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Bracket-Enthoo-Primo-PH-SDBKT_02/dp/B00M2UKO7U
I've never found the Amazon dimension descriptions useful until now. Says 1" height. Measure the gap you have from the mounting face to the panel. I don't vividly remember the Pro's I've built in, but I would guess you're going to be getting within a few mm of the side panel.
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12 hours ago, thekeemo said:
That is like 5 entries today
Anyway one person had his standards substantially lowered by HP to the point where a 4.75 was "the best experience ever" and G.Skill seems solid
regarding your comment @runit3 there is no "not sure" answer because the score cant be "this or this".
Makes sense, I just went with my best educated guess. I was surprised that no one else had a G.Skill experience, although with the quality of their products and the service I got, I don't think there's too many people out there motivated (in a bad way) to tell about their experience.
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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($369.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($56.60 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus X99-A/USB 3.1 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($225.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Value 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($179.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1162.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-11 01:59 EDT-0400Leaves ~$400 for a GPU, which I honestly would hold out on buying. Slot in your old card if you have one, or buy a cheap used 280X or 290 until the 1070 gets better availability, or the RX 480 benchmarks come out. 950 pro drive for the OS with a separate ~50GB partition for a scratch disk. Dual WD 1TB's for RAID backup of your finished products.
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Kind of hard to tell without the graph extending for temp and freq. I'd guess LLC needs to get notched up, but without a voltage graph to go along with that hard to tell if it's from a dip/spike set on load.
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On top of the IHS it usually says "Intel Confidential <line> #### ES <line> manufacturer origin (Costa Rica for example)".
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wert der fuq.....
If you wouldn't mind, try doing a Cinebench R15 run when it displays 3.3 and then again when it displays 3.7. Do you have an ES chip? or is it complete retail package you picked up at a store?
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1 minute ago, DocBrown said:
sorry i never realised how i used laptop ram in that it was just a quick question.. I live in Ireland and the only shop that has good prices is Komplett but they dont have a lot to offer.
http://www.custompc.ie/crucial-4gb-ddr3-1600-241653-p.asp
2 of those saves you 9.47
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well one of the ones you linked is SODIMM (for laptops) so no, in that case it wouldn't work.
If you wanted value DDR3 RAM something like this would work> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231422
Assuming you're not intending to get RAM for a laptop. Although, on that website you linked, it's already their cheapest DDR3 offering. Any other local vendors you can look at?
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which NIC do you have it plugged into? Top port is the Realtek, bottom is Intel (assuming you have the mobo oriented upright w/CPU on the left). The drivers may not be installed for one or the other, double check that.
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1 hour ago, Catalonia said:
Thanks for the info! I just don't understand why is needed to increase the FSB if RAM voltage goes up to 1.35v
It's not a correlation beween FSB and RAM voltage, it's the strap necessary to run RAM over 2666MHz. The weak IMC on X99 CPU's contributes to the difficulty in running higher speeds of DDR4, increasing BCLK stabilizes the set-up to a certain degree (along with voltage increases). If you don't want your CPU to run at an OC'd freq. (I don't know why you wouldn't) just lower the multiplier.
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You could likely hit 4.2 on whatever your stock voltage is. I would guess 1.1-1.15v range. Set your core voltage to manual/static in the BIOS, change mult to x42, and see if it is stable.
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3 minutes ago, Sming said:
Wikipedia says LGA 1366
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dell_PrecisionWikipedia is wrong
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The laptops you listed are from the old rPGA (Pin Grid Array) sockets, I believe the m4500 and m6500 are rPGA989. It's not an LGA 1366 socket board, not sure where you got that info. The best CPU you could socket into those boards would probably be an i7-640M, but it wouldn't be worth the trouble.
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Use HWMonitor or HWinfo to confirm that the Corsair Link software isn't just bugging out. If it is, uninstall and reinstall.
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Just now, Webnerdz said:
Yeah it came in the proper box and had all the paperwork in it
Yeah, send that shit back. They're probably trying to get away with binning them and reselling. People that lazy and stupid don't deserve your money.
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If they were selling it as an OEM chip they're just careless and didn't clean off the thermal paste. OEM would mean they had a batch of Dell/HP/OEM supplier machines, stripped them for parts, and took the CPU's to resell. The CPU's were once mounted in the machines, which is why there would be thermal paste.
If you pulled that out of a genuine Intel box that came with a factory fan, manual, etc. it should definitely not have any marks or leftover TIM.
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Life is much easier with keeping the original boxes, as you have already figured out, don't get rid of the Xeon packaging.
If I was buying a used CPU w/out the original packaging I would want to receive it in a foam set crush resistant case. Shouldn't be too difficult (or expensive) to spend a few bucks on something like floral foam and use an old cellphone box. Anti-static bag is a plus, but CPU's aren't as vulnerable as bare PCB GPU's or MOBO's.
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Why would you take the time to RMA most of your components when you have no idea why it's happening? How did the RMA's even get approved if you have no evidence of a product failure (physical or otherwise)?
Also, what are the actual symptoms? "stuttering like crazy" is an abstract way of stating a potential problem with any component. You need to be way more specific. Does the OS hang when doing certain tasks? Can you reproduce the problem consistently? How do you reproduce it?
If I had to place a bet on what is wrong with the system my first guess would be HDD/SSD misconfiguration, failure, or OS corruption based on "stuttering like crazy" symptoms. Of course that assumes your CPU isn't downclocking due to thermal throttling, improper C-states, voltage droop, etc. etc.
Do some due-diligence in trying to reproduce the problem and get some metrics on the system status when it is happening (clock speed, temps, active software, etc.). No one is going to take the time to try and help if you can't take the time to provide details of the problem.
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36 minutes ago, Senzelian said:
This was very informative.
But what's FIVR?Fully Integrated Voltage Regulator
http://hothardware.com/news/haswell-takes-a-major-step-forward-integrates-voltage-regulator
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I killed my old 5960X with 1.78v Vcore under DICE (repeated runs, probably hit 1.85v at one point). VCCIN over 2.0v is not likely to gain you any more stability than leaving it at a respectable 1.85-1.9v (it's a moot point). If you really wanted to fry something pushing 1.5v+ through the IMC via VCCIO/SA is a nice way to kill the usability of a chip.
The new 5960X runs at 1.395v daily (under water) and I have had no degradation over the last 6 months. The only chip I've ever gotten to degrade was a 2550k at 1.525-1.5v for around a month of use (had to notch back the clock by 200MHz and eventually dropped it to 1.45v -no issues ATM reported from the person I gave the build to). This was also coupled with multiple sprints to 1.7v, so take that for what it's worth.
If you really want to get into the nitty-gritty of voltage limits no manufacturer flat out tells people where the maximums are. Mass trial and error reporting is really the only usable metrics we get, and outside of a few people on this forum who regularly push DICE/LN2, overclock.net is the place you will want to go for that type of information.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1510388/haswell-e-overclock-leaderboard-owners-club
For warranty info there's really no way to prove your CPU was running at a certain voltage, or for how long it was running that voltage. Many people regularly do warranty claims on chips they've killed with voltage, if there's no immediate physical signs of abuse (toasted pin platforms or deformed IHS's) there's not much they can do to refute the claim. This is obviously less than savory, but you can purchase Intel's PTPP for your chip ($25-35 depending on the chip) and blast it with voltage to your heart's content. This is what I did for my 5960X and told the warranty rep that I killed it under voltage. New chip arrived in less than 2 weeks (US shipping) -not sure if that plan is offered in Germany, or how long it would take to get a replacement.
LG PF1000U Ultra Short Throw Projector Giveaway
in LTT Releases
Posted
This thing looks sweet AF.